From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1434
Date: Monday, March 24, 2003 7:18 AM

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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Vacuum Question
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: air inlet valve
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

3. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>

4. Re: car mysteriously died
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

5. Exhaust stud removal
From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. RE: fuel pump replacement
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:10:40 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Vacuum Question

Low RPM's and the car would want to go but couldn't. Like something holding 
it back.
John Hervey


<< Here's a quick question for you all..
 
 What would the symptoms be of the vacuum hose being disconnected from the
 vacuum advance unit?
  >>



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:35:31 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: air inlet valve

<< My car has the air intake totally removed. Can someone explain an easy fix 
 to correct this. 
(Lift it up and put it back on ) :-) Ha Ha Ha.LOL. 
Mike, I have no bolt on replacement for the air breather at this time. But if 
you can put it back on, don't replace the Hot air Valve back on the bottom. 
Get a 3" flex hose and run it from the bottom to the hole in the rear 
pontoon. Cooler air will be breathed by the car and it runs better.
John

The whole assembly was in bad shape so my friend and I 
 removed it. I would like to try John Hervey's idea of just running a flex 
 hose from the black air breather to somewhere to get outside air. Can John 
or 
 someone explain an easy fix...
Take a look at what I did. 2 7/8 not 3".
John
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/reference-materials-2.html

 
  >>



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 17:40:57 -0600
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?

Here's how I did it:

First, protect your torsion bars!  Marty Maier improvised a clever solution
when we were working on this in my garage.  He took a plastic tube of a
similar diameter to the torsion bar's, cut a slit along its length, and
wrapped it around the bar for protection from the drill bit.  Worked like a
charm.

Next, drill the heads off the pop rivets.  Don't press too hard, otherwise
you'll dent the top of your door.

Now that the heads are off the pop rivets, you've still got the rest of them
inside your door.  You can't pull them out, of course, but they're too big
to push in (or, again, you'll dent the top of your door).  Pull them towards
you as much as possible with a pair of needle-nose pliers.  Once you have
exposed as much as you can, use a cutting disk on a rotary tool to cut the
shaft flush with your door panel.

At this point, the remaining bits of the pop rivets are small enough to tap
back inside your door.  Don't worry, your doors won't turn into giant
maracas...the bits of metal will either settle in somewhere snugly or fall
out through the drain holes at the bottom of the doors when you open and
close them a few times.

Pop rivet the new seals in place, paying close attention to their
orientation (the ones I bought from PJ Grady were conveniently labeled).  I
opted not to use the stainless steel pop rivets that Grady provided, because
if I ever need to do this process over again I didn't want to mess with
drilling and cutting stainless.

Sure it's a hassle, but the new ones sure do look better than the old, split
ones!

Good luck,

_______________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681





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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:44:51 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died

Martin, I doesn't short out it by passes. I did the diagram because the relay 
isn't shown on the original diagram. The diagram shows the blue/ yellow going 
straight to the resistor on the left side with no relay. The relay was added 
to me for safety and to make sure the resistor got the appx 10.4 volts if 
cranking properly for the instance the solenoid was engaged. I think if you 
got down to 6 to 8 volts  you may have a bad battery or a mighty big drain 
from the starter. I don't think the car would start with voltage that low.  
The diagram should be correct. My 11004 runs on this for the last year or so 
with no problems.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


   

<< The ignition coil cannot take 12v, so the feed to the coil passes 
 through those two resistors. However as we all know, cranking causes the 
 voltage on the battery to drop - maybe to as low a 6-8v when not fully 
 charged. And of course when cranking, the one thing you really want is a 
 decent spark! So, the purpose of that relay is to short out one of the 
 two resistors giving the coil more of the available voltage to create a 
 spark. The supply to the relay comes strait from the starter solenoid. 
 John Hervey has a diagram on his website but I think it isn't 100% correct.
 
 However, open or closed, that relay should not affect the coil getting a 
 feed.... the only thing I can think of is that there's something 
 seriously terminally wrong with that relay and it's grounding your coil 
 feed!
 
 I suggest you cut off and re-crimp all the connectors going to the 
 ballast resistors, and clean up all the contacts. Also replace that 
 relay. I have a nice new sealed plastic one with integral blade fuse at 
 5A. My car now starts much better, especially on a damp morning.
 
 BTW all through your post I was thinking "fuel pump" until you noted 
 that it started and shut down fine. This tells you immediately that the 
 RPM relay is working correctly, which was my first guess based on your 
 symptoms.
  >>



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 01:16:29 -0000
From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Exhaust stud removal

I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than 
slipping around the stud. I went to Sears and Auto Zone to look 
for another type of wrench but found nothing. I've also heated the 
studs and used plenty of liquid wrench, but not luck. Any ideas?

Pat
vin 5552




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 19:46:43 -0800
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: fuel pump replacement

To answer the question about removing the fuel pump from the tank, on my supercharged car I made a stainless steel cap that goes where the fuel pump boot was, with a steel pickup tube welded in it. The cap is sealed with special fuel-resistant o-rings and a large s/s clamp.  The pump, a low pressure one in my case due to now having a carb, is inside the frame where the fuel accumulator used to be.  Works great.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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