From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1435
Date: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 7:23 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

2. Re: South Carolina Door Adjustment Festival
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

3. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: "netym89" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

4. D4 diode blown in door lock module
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

5. Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch_at_dml_bluewin.ch>

6. Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch_at_dml_bluewin.ch>

7. Re: car mysteriously died
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>

9. Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

10. RE: Exhaust stud removal
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

11. Adjustable Door Struts
From: "graves_144" <graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. Cooling System Fans
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com

13. Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. RE: Exhaust stud removal
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

15. fan fail relay
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

16. Delorean Interior Clean
From: <condoluci_at_dml_tiscali.co.uk>

17. RE: seeking advice
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

18. Where are the fiberglass Lotus Deloreans??
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

19. Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Professional Fuel Injection Cleaner Hookups
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

21. aluminum coolant pipes
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

22. Missing Louver Style...
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

23. Retinting orange turn signal lenses
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

24. DeLorean For Sale
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

25. Re: car mysteriously died
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 05:56:36 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust stud removal

Pat - Find two nuts that will thread onto the stud, and put them 
both on.  Tighten the two nuts against each other to create a "jam 
nut" type of installation.  Then, use a wrench to loosen the nut 
closest to the cylinder head.  This technique should allow you to 
remove the studs without doing the damage that vice-grips will do to 
the stud.  Be careful, though.  You will get a great deal of torque 
applied to the stud - they are very easy to break off due to the 
temperature damage to the steel material of the stud.  "Easy does 
it" is your mantra while you do this.  I hope this helps.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
> and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
> studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than 
> slipping around the stud. 




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 22:50:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: South Carolina Door Adjustment Festival

In addition to Bill's comments I just wanted to add a public thanks to Dave and his family for allowing us to crash their vacation for a second time. Not only did all of us learn a thing or two this past weekend, but it was fun just to be around people who share the DeLorean sickness... LOL. Thanks again Dave!

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford/Charlotte NC



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 07:26:35 -0000
From: "netym89" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?

Todd,
Excellent! Now I know how to do about it! Better to check first 
before I start to experiment on my own. Are the pop rivets something 
special that I have to orderthem from PJ Grady? Can a local hardware 
store not supply rivets for this purpose, or maybe a body shop??


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Here's how I did it:
> 
> First, protect your torsion bars!  Marty Maier improvised a clever 
solution
> when we were working on this in my garage.  He took a plastic tube 
of a
> similar diameter to the torsion bar's, cut a slit along its length, 
and
> wrapped it around the bar for protection from the drill bit.  
Worked like a
> charm.



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 07:53:22 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: D4 diode blown in door lock module

I have bench tested my door lock module extensively. Everything 
checks out fine but the D4 diode between purple and ground is blown. 
Now, I don't know how long its been that way but here are the details.
First, I decided to replace the solenoids with the two wire actuators 
instead of the 3-wire solenoids. This meant that I switching was 
required between  these two wires of the actuators. I installed 2 
relays for each side, one relay dealing with the lock operation and 
another for the unlock operation. So now, I have four extra relays 
for the door locks. At rest, the actuator contacts are at ground 
until a pulse from the door lock module provides power to either wire 
to unlock or lock. This has worked great! The modification was 
documented but somehow I had to remember how it was done. The relays 
in the door lock module only provide 12 volts to the relays which in 
term, provide 12 volts to the actuators so no huge current drain 
necessary for these plastic actuators; my module should last a life-
time. My car is unavailable to check this circuit right now so the 
best I can do is, replace this D4 diode. What value can I replace it 
with as mine is all fried up to a crisp!
John Elgersma 10250





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:25:57 +0100
From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch_at_dml_bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: DeLorean & Lagonda

Re: DeLoreans and Aston Martin Lagonda

Hello Michael,

this is a weird one. I never thought of Aston Lagondas and DeLoreans in one
line.

Yes, I own Lagonda 13354, a 1984 Series II, originally delivered to Ryiadh,
S.A. At 27'000 km it is in great shape. It's a lovely car and everything
works (after replacing some touch switches). 13354 is light blue with an
Everflex roof and bumpers in dark blue and recently (be me) fitted magnolia
leather trim inside. I did not like a sun bleeched Saudi light blue velours.

I must take some pictures of the two cars together and post them to you.

My DeLorean Vin 4740 at 6300 mi is presently being resurrected after a 10
year sleep (the gunk from the tank is already out, yuk, all gas struts
replaced, etc.). This week, the engine will get a go ahead.
Does anybody have experience with taking the fuel pump out of the tank and
making it a 'proper' (British) installation? Seems stupid to replace a fuel
pump, tank gauge unit and all associated hoses and covers, etc. after less
than 10 years in a stainless steel bodied car that you want to keep.
Especially with the risk of getting the gunk into the fuel system in between
times! Thanks to considerate folks on this forum, I did not fall into that
trap.

BTW - We should place a warning on this forum about transporting DeLoreans
on a trailer on German Autobahns. First, people stare at you all the time
and almost cause accidents; secondly, DeLoreans do not like riding their
rear facing the direction of travel at 110 km/h (68 mph): my louvred engine
cover flew away over me riding in the car behind the car-trailer unit,
denting the attachment joints on the roof of the DeLorean (all repaired and
well again thanks to really thought- and helpful DeLorean aficionados in the
Netherlands).

Many thanks to the people on this forum for their expertise and
thoughfulness. It makes owning a DeLorean a real joy.

Arthur G. Sutsch




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:34:49 +0100
From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch_at_dml_bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Replacement

Re: Moving Fuel Pump out of the Tank

Just posted the same question to the thread DeLorean&Lagonda.

My entire fuel system components, pump, gauge, all hoses, filter, etc. are
tar after about 10 years. Seems silly to have such a car and sit with the
danger of mucking up the fuel system whenever it pleases. I will definitily
move the pump out of the tank into the space remaining next to the tyre. Any
suggestions and experience will be appreciated.
Apart from the danger of the damage this concoction of the pump inside the
tank may cause to the fuel system, it is the most non-delightful work to
clean a fuel tank from the gunk.

Arthur G. Sutsch
VIN 4740





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 12:48:20 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died

  John, let's not split hairs - shorting a 2-pin device is the same as 
connecting both ends together, this is what the relay does on ONE of the 
resistors. You can call it a bypass too. I needed to re-wire my engine 
bay relay and checked your diagram. It shows the feed to the relay coil 
coming from the ignition feed - this is not correct otherwise it'd be on 
all the time - I think it's just unclear from the way you've edited it. 
The original diagram shows the feed from the solenoid putting 12V 
inbetween the two resistors where in reality that feed powers a relay to 
short out one of the resistors. For anyone wondering what we're going on 
about, the diagram's here

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/ign-relay-diag2.jpg

I have seen my car start on 8V (according to the dash guage that is). My 
battery is okay according to the telltale indicator on it, though it 
does stay sitting for long periods connected and my alarm is quite 
thirsty when armed.

Martin
#1458
#4426

dherv10_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Martin, I doesn't short out it by passes. I did the diagram because the relay 
>isn't shown on the original diagram. The diagram shows the blue/ yellow going 
>straight to the resistor on the left side with no relay. The relay was added 
>to me for safety and to make sure the resistor got the appx 10.4 volts if 
>cranking properly for the instance the solenoid was engaged. I think if you 
>got down to 6 to 8 volts  you may have a bad battery or a mighty big drain 
>from the starter. I don't think the car would start with voltage that low.  
>The diagram should be correct. My 11004 runs on this for the last year or so 
>with no problems.
>John Hervey
>www.specialTauto.com
>
>  
>





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:16:56 -0000
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?

Why cant you just Use cut off what is remaining of teh 
weatherstripping and then USe 3m eatherstriping glue to glue the new 
strip over the old one which cant be seen if you cut it off. To me 
thats alot better of a method, you dont risk damage to your door or 
torsion bar and it would take a whole 20 mins Max to do. Something to 
think about.


Jon
10103



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Here's how I did it:
> 
> First, protect your torsion bars!  Marty Maier improvised a clever 
solution
> when we were working on this in my garage.  He took a plastic tube 
of a
> similar diameter to the torsion bar's, cut a slit along its length, 
and
> wrapped it around the bar for protection from the drill bit.  
Worked like a



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:05:28 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Exhaust stud removal

  Firstly, don't keep trying with the vice-grips, you can round off the 
stud too much. I don't know what they're called in the US, but I was 
able to buy a set of stud extracotrs from Halfords (kinda like your 
AutoZone, but does quality tools). They look like deep sockets but have 
a small hole in them, stated as either M6, M8, M10 or M12 and internally 
there are three knuled "fingers" which grip the stud as you turn. The M6 
one can be encouraged onto the M7 studs. There's a picture of us doing a 
new head and the stud extractor is sitting on the carpet.

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DSCN0774_1.jpg

I will be submitting an update to Dave Swingle on the exhaust manifold 
gasket article because I've now done a car where everything was rusted, 
seized and/or snapped!

Martin
#1458
#4426

schab932000 wrote:

>I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
>and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
>studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than 
>slipping around the stud. I went to Sears and Auto Zone to look 
>for another type of wrench but found nothing. I've also heated the 
>studs and used plenty of liquid wrench, but not luck. Any ideas?
>
>Pat
>vin 5552
>  
>





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 07:57:42 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust stud removal

Find a "Stud Remover" tool.  This tool connects to a ratchet handle and uses
a cam to grab the stud.  I found one at a local NAPA store.  It was about
$30 and worth every cent.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: schab932000 [mailto:schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 7:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Exhaust stud removal


I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than 
slipping around the stud. I went to Sears and Auto Zone to look 
for another type of wrench but found nothing. I've also heated the 
studs and used plenty of liquid wrench, but not luck. Any ideas?

Pat
vin 5552




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 15:29:24 -0000
From: "graves_144" <graves_14_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Adjustable Door Struts

I too would like to hear what PJ Grady and DMC Houston have to say 
about these. Maybe they can contact the supplier(s) and start 
stocking them as a 'performance strut'??  

I would prefer to have someone else actually review their 
functionality first before I invest. I wouldn't have any problem 
spending a little more on these adjustable struts if I can actually 
get into my car in the winter!

I'm glad I was finally able to start a useful discussion on this list!

Tyler
#3472




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 10:36:22 EST
From: doctordhd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Cooling System Fans

One of my fan motors is not running even though it has power and turns freely 
by hand.  Can anyone direct me to info on how best to remove the motor to 
test it and perhaps check / replace the brushes?  My workshop manual does not 
seem to have any info about this.  Am I missing some pages?  Hope to meet 
some of you at the Mid Atlantic Spring Social in April.

Dave
6530

ps I am still looking to find a door lock module connector.  If anyone has 
one please let me know.  By the way I found that the mystery connector under 
my ignition ballast resistor goes to an "extra" 9 pin red connector inside 
the coil cover box.  It is not plugged into anything.  Does anyone know why 
it is there?  Was it for diagnostic purposes?  (Hey I think it is the same 
size as the door lock module! But I don't want to cannibalize it.)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 15:40:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust stud removal

To get out stubborn exhaust hardware you need A LOT of heat. You have 
to get the parts up to dull cherry red and you can only do that with 
an acetelyne welding torch. As soon as you get the stud red you lock 
your vise grips on as tight as you can and it should turn although it 
may take the threads out with it! If you just can't get a grip on it 
you could weld a nut to the stud (oversize if you have to, it doesn't 
have to thread on) and use a wrench once you heat it up. As when using 
a torch on the motor take precautions not to damage anything with the 
heat like hoses and wires. STAY AWAY FROM ANY FUEL LINES. Remove them 
if you have to and have someone stand by with a fire extiguisher. When 
replacing use Never-Seize on all of the hardware.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
> and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
> studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than 
> slipping around the stud. I went to Sears and Auto Zone to look 
> for another type of wrench but found nothing. I've also heated the 
> studs and used plenty of liquid wrench, but not luck. Any ideas?
> 
> Pat
> vin 5552




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 10:10:38 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Exhaust stud removal

Pat

More heat and more liquid wrench.  If you still have threads
left, you should use 2 nuts to get the studs out.  Put one nut on
in a position where you can get an open end wrench on it, then 
snug the second nut (called a stop nut) on and tighten it against the
first nut.  Then heat the area around the stud with a torch for at least
20 seconds, moving the flame around the stud.  Don't heat the stud.
Steel expands faster than aluminum, so heating the stud makes the 
problem worse.  After the 20 seconds, spray the stud with a blast of
WD-40 or liquid wrench and start turning the first nut immediately.

If your threads are mangled, there are stud extraction tools available
at any parts counter.  Use the same procedure using the stud extractor
instead of the two nuts.

Mike 

-----Original Message-----
From: schab932000 [mailto:schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 7:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Exhaust stud removal


I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
studs. 




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 17:46:46 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: fan fail relay

Hello
How long did the "blue fan fail relays" last,on an average ? I found 
a D with the stock relay still in place and wondered if this detail 
would indicate a low mileage car....
thanks !!
Raphael




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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 19:37:14 -0000
From: <condoluci_at_dml_tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Delorean Interior Clean

Hi People,

I am restoring my Delorean and will be cleaning the Interior tomorrow.
Do any of you guys have any tips on cleaning the interior - what to use
and what not to use?

Appreciate any input

Regards

Barry



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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 15:55:37 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: seeking advice

<SNIP> Does anyone have a direct link to where this rechargeable struts are
shown? </SNIP>

Here is the Google translation. It can't fix the graphics, but it sure
helps!!!

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.delorean.de/t
itel.htm
Click on "MARKT" and then on "DeLorean Club Deutschland"

Contact adriandmc_at_dml_aol.com  so see what it takes to charge them up.

Gary
IN2TIME




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 00:57:09 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Where are the fiberglass Lotus Deloreans??

I read in Stainless Steel Illusion, page 113, that 18 test vehicles 
with fiberglass were built by Lotus. Are these orange Deloreans still 
in existence??





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 01:33:14 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust stud removal

What are you using for heat? Propane probably not hot enough -- need
acetylene. Not really a process for novice (which I am w/ gas welders
BTW. Took my car to a professional). Essentially you heat stud until
it becomes slightly molten, then remove as quickly as possible.
Potential problem: can heat stud too much so it melts into threads and
becomes totally unremovable.

Have you demo'd threads on existing studs beyond reuse? If not, why
not clean threads just use new nuts. I ended up doing that on a
particularly stubborn one. Even if vice grips demo'd, you might be
able to re-die next size down (start at 6x1 or 7x1 mm as I recall). 

Bill Robertson
#5939 (waiting patiently for its owner to return)

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets 
> and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the 
> studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than 
> slipping around the stud. I went to Sears and Auto Zone to look 
> for another type of wrench but found nothing. I've also heated the 
> studs and used plenty of liquid wrench, but not luck. Any ideas?
> 
> Pat
> vin 5552




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:48:32 -0500
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: Professional Fuel Injection Cleaner Hookups

Hi All,
 
I have a question on professional fuel injection cleaners, like the
NAPA/Echlin universal system.  In the instructions for Bosch K-Jetronic,
they have instructions to hook the hose to the fuel inlet, plug the
return port with the included plug, and disconnect the pump at the fuel
pump connector.
 
My question is this:  in their diagram, the fuel return only has one
line shown -- the fuel return line.  The return on the frequency valve
is also connected to this port, so plugging the port would leave the
return from the frequency valve disconnected.  My thoughts are that this
is not a good idea, and instead the return line should be left off and
the frequency valve return connected back up to this port with a
single-hose connector (a spare single hose connector from the main line
will fit fine.  Any thoughts on this?
 
Also, is it necessary to disconnect the pump at its connector, or would
simply tripping the inertia switch be sufficient?
 
-Dave
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:50:37 EST
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: aluminum coolant pipes

I have a very small leak on my passenger side coolant pipe at the rubber 
"elbow" under the engine where it begins to lead up toward the resevoir tank. 
It is the 16 inch aluminum coolant pipe pipe and not the rubber hose. I had 
some corrosion on the ends and it appears there must be a small pinhole crack 
in the aluminum near the end. If this was at any other spot I would just cut 
a longer rubber hose and clamp past the hole. Unfortunatly, it is near the 
special elbow hose. I may just buy another coolant pipe but I was just 
wondering if there was an easy fix for small holes or corrosion cracks in 
these pipes...

thanks

Mike C
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 21:58:09 EST
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Missing Louver Style...

Hello,
       I took my louver off this winter to have it painted but I sort of fell 
in love with the way the car looks without it installed.  I have heard that 
the Louver creates somewhat of a vacuum which cools the engine better.  Is it 
really that big of a deal?  I never drive my car when it rains so I am not 
worried about water entering the engine compartment.  Any input would be 
appreciated.

Thanks for your time


Peace

Dave
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 03:24:31 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Retinting orange turn signal lenses

When I bought my Delorean, I never noticed until somebody mentioned 
it to me but my RH rear taillight must have been in an accident. 
After redoing my fascias I discovered that it was indeed. Now, that 
my RH side taillight is new, the orange lens looks great but my LH 
side turn signal light is really faded. Unless I trade with somebody 
that has a darker or lighter taillight assembly, I want to find out 
if the lighter LH side lens can be recoated. Pleaseunderstand that I 
just want to make them match up. Any suggestions???
John Elgersma
82/10250





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:58:50 EST
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: DeLorean For Sale



    I was attending a wedding in Manhattan NYC this weekend. I was able to 
sneak away to one of NYC's many exotic car dealerships. The dealer was 
Bimmers & Benz of North America, 201-04 Northern Blvd., Bayside 11361 in the 
Queens Borough. 

Sure enough they have a 1981, Gray Leather 5 speed, manufactured August 1981 
VIN 3175. The stainless & fascia looked good, the only problem was the 
typical cracked binnacle and dirty engine compartment.

The dealer is able to assist with financing. 717-279-7231 ask for Soprano, 
General Manager.

Best Wishes,

Michael P






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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:02:42 EST
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died

Based on my experience, you could have a bad RPM relay.

Best Wishes,

Michael P



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