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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1438
Date: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 7:43 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Pinhole Coolant Leaks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. RE: Lowered suspension
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <>

3. Re: Houston Open House
From: Samuel <>

4. Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

5. Antifreeze/Car History Question.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

6. Zilla photos posted to Files section
From: "ryanjm10014" <>

7. NCDMC Announcement - DMC Garden Grove visit
From: "ryanjm10014" <>

8. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: "John Elgersma" <>

9. Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
From: "Henry" <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 03:45:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Pinhole Coolant Leaks

The root cause IS the anti-freeze! When it changes ph and becomes
acidic it becomes more and more of an electolyte. When it is in
contact with the different types of metals a potential is created
between them. In effect you have a battery and the lower potential
metal on the EM chart dissolves which means the aluminum is the first
to go with the thinner parts showing the damage first. You will also
see damage to the brass with the least to the steel. This also happens
if you use a float charger and leave it on all of the time with the
battery in the car. The AC current will leak a tiny bit and cause
damage. The best advice is to remove the battery when you store the
car and try to never charge the battery in the car. Another problem
unique to the Delorean is the lack of grounding points in the car. If
there is a current between parts the body can't carry it so it could
go through the car in the cooling system causing the deplating. On
boats they use a sacrificial anode to prevent damage to the parts you
want to protect. It is made of zinc which is very easy to dissolve so
it disappers first instead of the propelor or rudder! You also have
one in your water heater for exactly the same reason, electrolosys. (I
am sure I speeled that one wrong!) There are many types of corrosion,
stress, chemical, and electralasys to name a few. The bottom line is
there are buffering additives to hold the ph of the anti-freeze within
a tight range but they wear out. The anti-freeze could be fine as far
as having a low freezing point but when the additives wear out
corrosion can begin. Unless you monitor the ph you should replace the
coolant on a 2 year schedule especially if you have aluminum parts in
the cooling system. You can go to the auto store and buy a bottle of
test strips like used for a swimming pool to test the anti-freeze if
you want to try to increase the flushing cycle. Anti-freeze isn't that
expensive though so the best advice is to just change it, do it every
2 years when you do the brake fluid.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:26:33 -0800
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <>
Subject: RE: Lowered suspension

I cut my own springs but only in the front. I believe that the car looks
and feels the way it should have in the first place. I don't think that
people should be lowering the rear, front is good enough. My front has
the same amount of space between the wheel and the tire, looks awesome!


Ski 4649


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 23:31:18 -0500
From: Samuel <>
Subject: Re: Houston Open House

For the open house event, I am planning on going. I'm in Florida and see 
that at least 1 person from Florida is also going. If you are driving 
and wouldnt mind a passenger with you, could you email me off list, 
Samuel (at) Lightspeed (dot) cx, to see if arrangements can be made to 
get together for the trip. I'd appreciate it.


James Espey wrote:

>Open House registration CLOSES on APRIL 25, unless the 150 limit is reached
>sooner. I fully expect we will reach the 150 limit within the next two weeks
>or so...


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 05:43:24 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean & Lagonda

If anyone is curious as to what the Lagonda looks like, here is a website with 
a fairly good amount of info.

The first time I saw one was _at_dml_ a classic car dealership here in town. I don't 
know the specifics, but it was a beautiful black on black combination. VERY 
simular to the DeLorean in looks. When I first saw it, I myself had to do a 
double take. The wedge shape the two cars share isn't exactly all that 
common. The interior was nice, except for when it came to the instrument 
cluster. I remember it being all red LED's, with allot of idiot lights, and looking 
overly complicated. Other than that, I do remember that the engine was huge, 
and used 2 seperate Sankyo A/C compressors that our cars do. High MSRP 
on the listing for the car if I remember correctly, somewhere in the region of 
$250K+. The asking price for this car was $40K, and it did indeed sell a short 
time later. If DMC would have stayed in business, perhaps a design simular to 
this could have rolled off the assembly lines for a luxury-only class, or 
perhaps even the DMC-44 model. This looks far closer to a more related 
concept than the Medusa pictured in SSI.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 06:17:23 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Antifreeze/Car History Question.

--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The root cause IS the anti-freeze! When it changes ph and becomes
> acidic it becomes more and more of an electolyte.

Quick question along the same lines. How long will antifreeze be able to sit in 
a car before it changes pH levels, and "goes bad"? I was told that my own car 
had sat parked for quite a number of years (previous owner had a stroke, and 
then died, no mechanical failure). But when it had it's very first coolant flush, 
and all new hoses installed, the mechanic commented on how clean the 
pipes, old thermostat, and drained fluid were, compared to other DeLoreans 
that had sat for the same period. So I'm wondering if perhaps I wasn't told the 
truth about my car's past.

All I ever knew was that the car came from Temecula, the owner's valet had a 
coupel of ads from some DeLorean repair center down in Westminster, and 
the last owner was supposed to be the father of some Amway guy named 
Glen Baker. Who after tracking him down (yes, most people's phone #'s are 
available on the internet), refused to return any of my calls, nor did he want to 
talk to me when I purchased the car from the mechanic where it was at (at 
least Howard Hughes gave interviews, cripes!).

Anyhow, just curious if anyone had any experince with antifreeze in the past, 
or may know any answers to my other questions.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 06:19:13 -0000
From: "ryanjm10014" <>
Subject: Zilla photos posted to Files section


I wanted to share a couple of photos Bob Zilla sent me. One shows 
the plug-in control module for the soon-to-be-released LockZilla 
Door Launchers. The other is a good shot of what the solenoids that 
go with the system look like.

Both pictures are in the Yahoo Group Files section in a folder 
called LockZilla Door Launcher.

I know what you're thinking: "As if we needed another reminder that 
we want these things really bad."

All I can say is that I feel the same way, but they'll be out soon 



Message: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 06:23:12 -0000
From: "ryanjm10014" <>
Subject: NCDMC Announcement - DMC Garden Grove visit

The NCDMC is proud to be hosting Don and Dan from DeLorean Motor 
Center this weekend in Mountain View, CA. The pair have generously 
donated their time to come on up for work on club cars. Don will be 
demonstrating how to change a fuel accumulator, which is useful 
knowledge for any owner, and we'll be following up the afternoon 
work with some dinner and entertainment. 

We'd like to thank Dan and Don in advance for their services and let 
the group know in case anyone locally missed the message or if 
anyone else would like to join us. Please e-mail me privately for 
any further details or see our club website at



Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 07:39:35 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?

To keep the car original and knowing that the rubber seal is waffered 
between the door and the metal plate, the job has to be done the 
right way. I can't mickey mouse these little projects if I want to 
restore the car with nobody pointing at little things that do not 
look original. The cost is minimal to do it right. Damaging the 
torsion bar is just a precaution that I can prevent by being careful 
and using the hints I received from others in the DML.
Thanks guys!
John Elgersma
--- In, "silverdelorean2002" 
<silvercrw646_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Why cant you just Use cut off what is remaining of teh 
> weatherstripping and then USe 3m eatherstriping glue to glue the 
> strip over the old one which cant be seen if you cut it off. To me 
> thats alot better of a method, you dont risk damage to your door or 
> torsion bar and it would take a whole 20 mins Max to do. Something 
> think about.
> Jon
> 10103

[moderator snip]


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 08:00:40 -0500
From: "Henry" <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean & Lagonda

Thanks for the link.  On their "Gallery Page" ( ), there is a picture of a Lagonda next to a Delorean - and the caption is "13359 & an imposter".



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