From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1444
Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 11:49 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.
From: jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Re: My "New to Me" Delorean.
From: jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com>

4. Re: Leather Interior
From: "William Bowie" <wbowie_at_dml_sc.rr.com>

5. Was Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. Now Locking Module
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Power Steering
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>

7. Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: Restored Engine Compartment
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: Restored Engine Compartment
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Aftermarket car stereos
From: "patrickdmc" <patrickdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. DeLorean Floatation Device
From: "Darin Wolf" <son_darin_at_dml_hotmail.com>

12. AW: Clock and A/C light dimming.
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

13. Re: Power Steering
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>

14. Re: Leather Interior
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. Re: Leather Interior
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

17. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

18. Re: Power Steering
From: jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Cylinder Liner Seat Corrosion
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_lycos.com>

20. Wiring gremlins
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

21. Re: Leather Interior
From: mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com

22. Re: Restored Engine Compartment
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>

23. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

24. Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. For Sale -- LockZilla Remote
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 02:58:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.

In factory configuration A/C lights on own circuit, keyed to ignition,
not headlight switch. Illuminated whenever car is energized. Faux pas
IMHO. Don't know how many amps the bulbs draw, so you might want to
measure before attaching to rheostat. Remember: red/orange line into
rheostat only 16 gauge. 

I've rewired my entire headlight circuit, including keying A/C lights
to  dash switch. Schematic in #5939's photo album (still current
except 1A fuse AFTER dash switch has been removed -- getting crowded
under shift boot). Note: other than red/brown line moved from A/C
panel relay, circuit is now 14 gauge until it gets back to fuse block.

Re: clock -- mine's always/only been 12 hour so I can't help you there
(is it OEM?). Was annoyed by dimming with headlights, so I cut that
line when rewiring circuit. Display is hard enough to see as it is
(bad angle). 

Bill Robertson
#5939



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 19:07:05 -0800 (PST)
From: jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.

The military time could be for a engilsh or european
model however if the clock is not functioning
correctly it will span time extremely fast and stop at
intervals appearing to be military as well this is
because the set button is broken and the clockis
spanning time because the button is not stopping the
settings the clock continues to move at a rapid fast
pace. the only dimming switch for the instructment
cluster is next to the clock on the left hand side
consult your owners mannuel and please give us achence
to answer all your questions thanks



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 19:01:21 -0800 (PST)
From: jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: My "New to Me" Delorean.

Also david im having a problem trying to figure out
why the door locks are not operating the coneection to
the modules are fully intact around the fuse box and
checked all fuses. there is a missing square i think
is a relay the square that has the connector holes
that the relay plugs into is absolutely blue and is
located on the far left of the board that had like
five lined relays in a row that then come close to
abutting the fuse box. My question is the pale blue
square that has the little holes is that for the power
door locks?? therefore if the answer is yes i presume
all i need is the relay with the prong teeth correct??
by the way it looks like the driver door was off at
one point. 


--- jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> David why do you want to disconnect the locking
> module
> i presume that is for the door locks?
> 
> 
> 
> --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> > Check to see that the lambda circuit is operating



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 22:09:49 -0500
From: "William Bowie" <wbowie_at_dml_sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

Aren't there plenty of shops in th US that could handle this?  D seats
aren't anymore difficult to recover than any other car. Why spend so much
shipping them to the UK?

WB(future D owner in training)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Leather Interior


> I am in the US and would be interested in getting in touch with them to
> do my seats... wonder what shipping would be for 2 seats to them ??
>
> Michael
>
> Vin 6067 (in under a week)



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 03:19:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Was Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. Now Locking Module

The locking module will fail locking you in the car, killing the
battery and burning up the solenoids in the doors. Until you can
upgrade either by getting a Lockzilla or reworking the module it is
safer to disconnect it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> David why do you want to disconnect the locking module
> i presume that is for the door locks?
> 
> 
> 
> --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > Check to see that the lambda circuit is operating ...
> 
> <snip -- excessive quoted material removed>
> 
> > ... the fuses. Save up for at least a Fanzilla and
> > disconnect the locking
> > module. 
> >  You are on your way to the TOTAL enjoyment of a
> > Delorean.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> >




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 07:29:19 -0000
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Power Steering

Hi guys,

Here is a question for you all. Has anyone ever attempted to update 
the rack to a power steering? My concerns are the lenght of the 
lines that have to go from the power steering pump(rear) to the 
front. Has anyone seen it done? Not nececcerly in a Delorean, maybe 
in another vehicle? Any info would be greatly appriciated.

Thnx,
Ski 4649




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 14:22:50 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.

Tom
The clock thing is a first for me. I am assuming you have 
disconnected the battery for a while to get it to reset with no 
luck? If that failed I would get it repaired. Since the light output 
is ok the rest is rather low tech stuff by today's standards and can 
be fixed rather easily I would think.

As for the lights - What you want to do is pretty easy. But, let me 
suggest that you will not like it. The light output does not balance 
very well. What I have been most happy with is just eliminating the 
AC bezel light completely during the day. The panel now just 
illuminates when I turn on the lights. This way the lighting comes 
on using the internal resistance (the red module #9). It works great.

You can make this happen by merely disconnecting or cutting the LGW 
wire between the AC panel illumination relay (11) and the resistor 
(the red one #9) in the relay compartment.

Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 14:32:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Restored Engine Compartment

Jon

NICE JOB!

Harold McElraft - 3354


-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "silverdelorean2002" 
<silvercrw646_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> My engine compartment is finally near completion after a ton of 
> work. FOr pics please go to the photos section and look under the 
> engine folder. Click full size to view the real size. Every part 
and 
> every bolt has been gone over including polishing.
> 
> 
> Jon
> 10103




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 06:47:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Restored Engine Compartment

Stunning!  Can you post a picture of what you started
with?  

Dick Ryan
VIN16867


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 14:58:24 -0000
From: "patrickdmc" <patrickdmc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket car stereos

 I've just finished putting in a Sony CD. It was a real job. I went 
with Kenwood 6" round speakers in the back and 3 1/2 in the front. 
I'm very 
happy with it. The speakers are completely hidden and look stock. For 
mine it started as a weekend project and turned into a "while I have 
the dash apart I may as well fix this and this....." 
 One thing I noticed was about 10 feet of extra speaker wire that was 
under the passenger seat and driver seat. They must have had a bulk 
discount when assembling the car. Anyone else see this? 


Patrick
1040




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 15:06:40 -0000
From: "Darin Wolf" <son_darin_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: DeLorean Floatation Device

So far I may have the topic set in an akward idea.  However, What I 
am about to suggest is in idle curiosity.  I've heard rumor about 
how a DeLorean has a hard time of steering at a high rate of speed 
and I am curious.  Noting the location of the engine, wouldn't 
common sense say that a suggested fix would be to tack on at least 
100 lbs to each side of the forward section of the frame in order to 
balance out the weight?  The only drawback is that for every ten 
lbs. added, one mph is lost.  It may be the 100 lbs. ratio however.

Also, I have read another topic covering how DeLoreans seem to have 
floated.  Personally I don't know about some of you, but that sounds 
a lot like most chevy vehicles I've owned.  It is a little known 
fact thought that Chevy does float longer than Ford.  I've never 
seen a DeLorean float, but I would say that its better to have a car 
that floats than one you'll drown in.  The only drawback to floating 
would be a raging river that would ultimately destroy the car.

Maybe one of us'll get a crazy idea and make a boat out of one, it 
certainly wouldn't be me, I have other plans involving the insane 
use of DMC.

Either way, if someone can tell me what the effect to the steering 
would be if the car was weighed down into a balance, I would 
appreciate the shared knowledge.  My understanding is, that 
DeLoreans don't slip in the rear.  Is this true?



Daemon Wolf




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:31:35 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Clock and A/C light dimming.


Military time ?

Don't forget, the world isn't the US only !
Europeans always use the 24 hour clocks (at least on digital clocks).
and no, we don't say it's 20 hundret, we say it's 20 o'clock or similar.
I am glad it has the 24 and not only the 12 hour display, that's somehow
like having the metric system.  It's simply said easier.

No you can't hook the A/C-lights on the rheostat because it would burn
in a short time.

Elvis



O.k....since nobody answered my question regarding the wierd military
time on my clock I am assuming that nobody has any idea what the problem
could be.  I'd like to have it work correctly but if there is no way to
fix it other than to replace it, I'd rather not.

Also,  Is there anyway to make the A/C bezel lights dim and brighten
with the rheostat?  This is also a question I have asked before with no
responses.Has anyone tried to do this?  Is it a complicated procedure?

Thanks         Tom      #005732





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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 11:10:51 -0600
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>
Subject: Re: Power Steering

On Monday 31 March 2003 01:29 am, vegascop1 wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> Here is a question for you all. Has anyone ever attempted to update
> the rack to a power steering? My concerns are the lenght of the
> lines that have to go from the power steering pump(rear) to the
> front. Has anyone seen it done? Not nececcerly in a Delorean, maybe
> in another vehicle? Any info would be greatly appriciated.
>
> Thnx,
> Ski 4649

You should investigate electronic power steering. My new Honda Civic Hybrid 
uses electronic power steering.

Warren
-- 
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:06:25 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

The original finish of the seats was to have the centre section of both 
bottom and top halves wrinkled. Mine were re-covered by Interior Trim in 
Belfast to the original design, but in full leather. Here's a pic


Martin

Joseph Molino wrote:

>yes I did one seat at a time and I even covered the dash and the passenger
>knee pad.  Even without the wrinkles, you cannot tell I did it.  It is a
>perfect match and I had the reupholstered throw in a half inch think pad on
>the seats so they feel a little softer, it also makes the leather wrinkle
>free and nice like new cars.
>
>I will post pics soon.
>
>Joseph
>





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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 18:06:12 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

...or you can spent only a few $$s on a small fibreglass repair kit and 
back the old panels to stiffen them up. It also helps to deliberately 
use a LOT of resin so it can soak into the board too.

Martin
#1458
#4426

John Elgersma wrote:

> Because the T-roof panels is only 
>anchored in the center, these panels tend to droop over time. If you 
>decide to redo the roof panels, have them cut a new piece of core-
>board for the roof. Not necessary to purchase OEM. The inner core-
>board is nothing special. The old one is traced onto new and voila, 
>new flush roof panel. Have fun!!
>
>  
>





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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:27:32 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darin Wolf" <son_darin_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> So far I may have the topic set in an akward idea.  However, What I 
> am about to suggest is in idle curiosity.  I've heard rumor about 
> how a DeLorean has a hard time of steering at a high rate of speed 
> and I am curious.  Noting the location of the engine, wouldn't 
> common sense say that a suggested fix would be to tack on at least 
> 100 lbs to each side of the forward section of the frame in order 
to  balance out the weight?
<SNIP>

Don't know what exactly you mean by having a hard time steering _at_dml_ a 
high rate of speed. I've had my car up to around 124mph, and haven't 
noticed anything out of the orinary. The front end will lay down, and 
stay quite steady. At slower speeds of arond 70mph, I've had to do 
some emergency manuvering a couple of times, and have maintained 
control of the car fine (obvious since I'm still here to write this). 
The back end *wiggles* quite a bit, but the amount of understeer in 
the front is just enough to quickly counter the effects of the rear 
sway to counter the rear inertia of the car, and return balance. I 
have never lost grip in this kind of a situation, just swayed the 
back. Remember, the car may be rear-engined, but the suspension 
engineering was completed by Lotus, who are pioneers, and experts on 
the subject in their own right. Dropping extra wieght into the car 
isn't going to help anything. My suspension is in need of a total 
overhaul. Drop some money on rebuilding/upgrading the suspension. 
Trying to make a "Stainless Sled" isn't going to cure problems, so 
much as it will create new ones. Rear-engine mounting in my car 
doesn't cause problems, it simply make it more fun!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:29:20 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device

Most mass-produced cars built for the street are designed
to understeer.  This is the safest way for cars to handle
for the average driver, because the natural reaction for
the general public is to remove their foot from the 
accelerator and grenade the brake pedal whenever their
car starts to get out of shape.  This transfers weight
to the front of the car, cancelling out some of the 
understeer.  If the car did not understeer initially, pressing
the brake would cause snap oversteer, which is much more
difficult to control - now you are talking about opposite 
steering lock and/or steering with the throttle which is 
way beyond the average driver.  

A contributing factor to the DeLorean's high speed understeer 
(and it is there) is the front ride height.  The nose up attitude 
allows air underneath the car at the front, causing lift, lightening 
it even further.

Tacking on extra weight is not the way to go about tuning a suspension.  
In fact, it's about the worst thing to do because now you have that
much more mass you have to turn.  The first step for tuning the DeLorean 
is to get the nose down to reduce front end lift.  This will also
have a minor effect on the weight distribution of the car.
Understeer can be reduced further by running wider tires than
stock on the front of the car.  You can start playing around with
the alignment specifications, but this will require adjustable
links up front, a feature that DeLoreans don't have without
replacing parts.  There are several good books on suspension design
and tuning.  You can find them at most libraries, Amazon, and some
of the bigger Borders or Barnes & Noble book sellers.   

And I really doubt anyone has done any quantitative testing
regarding the bouyancy characteristics of the average motor
vehicle.  It's hard enough to get automakers to do crash testing.

--
Mike
> So far I may have the topic set in an akward idea.  However, What I 
> am about to suggest is in idle curiosity.  I've heard rumor about 
> how a DeLorean has a hard time of steering at a high rate of speed 
> and I am curious.
> Daemon Wolf
> 



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:43:56 -0800 (PST)
From: jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Power Steering

Hi there is no power steering pump in the delorean
unless it has been installed aftermarket which the
delorean dealerships in CA do do when they sell
refurbished cars check to see if there are leaks of
fluid/graese coming from the rubber by the rack under
the front of the car or cracked or broken rubber also
gointo the front area of the front hood next to the
spare tire there are 16 small screws unsrew them take
off plate nd grease steering rod where it enters the
rack real easy also check to see if there is loss of
the fluid/ grease if there is there is a pricedure to
put more fluid in rack if no leaks anyhwere then ok
thanks Jaimie


--- vegascop1 <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com> wrote:
> Hi guys,
> Here is a question for you all. Has anyone ever
> attempted to update the rack to a power steering?



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:59:54 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_lycos.com>
Subject: Cylinder Liner Seat Corrosion

Bought my first DeLorean a few weeks ago after looking in earnest for 
about a month. Drove the 4 hours to Miami area and picked it up 
myself.

I bought a project, with an excellent interior/exterior, but with the 
engine in pieces. The engine is complete, however it is 100% 
disassembled. 

I have rebuilt many an engine, but never a V6, and since I've never 
even seen a real DeLorean engine all together, it is a very fun, but 
challenging jig-saw puzzle.

I dry assembled it last week, to make sure I had enough bolts, etc. 
and to learn my lessons the easy way. Thanks to everyone who has 
posted engine pictures. Helped me figure a couple things out not 
specified in the manuals, i.e., auxillary pulley locations.


Here's my question: 
This last weekend, after being shut down because of not getting all 
four thrust washers I ordered from DMC, I set about the busy work of 
cleaning threads, etc. I noticed there was corrosion around the 
number 1 and 4 cylinder liner seats. It has eaten into the flange 
seat, and had me ponderring an upper crankcase replacement all 
weekend.

Any thoughts on this? I'd love to hear them. 

Dan in Cocoa, FL
VIN#  3932


BTW $8300 for car and about $1600 in miscellaneous parts, tools, 
machine shop work, etc., so far. I am frothing at the bit to get this 
engine complete and in the car!!






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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 10:12:46 -0800
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Wiring gremlins

The horns which are new sound like someone stepping on a duck.  I 
cleaned the grounds but i think it goes deeper than that. the drivers 
side radiator fan doesn't  work(have the fan fail bypass) and those are 
on the same sub-harness. If i disconnect the fans  and jumper the left 
fan to the right side it works fine. My test light glowed real dim and 
my VOM was at work so I couldn't check voltage but I would say probably 
around 6v going to the fan. I cleaned the plugs going to the fans but 
that didn't help.  I checked the plug behind the washer bottle and the 
contacts were nice and clean.

any Ideas?
I will post this question to the list also and see what people have to 
say.


Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
(503)370-9951




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 14:44:32 -0500
From: mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

They already spent the time and energy to make the patterns of the parts and I 
really liked the look of their work.

Quoting William Bowie <wbowie_at_dml_sc.rr.com>:

> Aren't there plenty of shops in th US that could handle this?  D seats
> aren't anymore difficult to recover than any other car. Why spend so much
> shipping them to the UK?
> 
> WB(future D owner in training)
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 9:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Leather Interior
> 
> 
> > I am in the US and would be interested in getting in touch with them to
> > do my seats... wonder what shipping would be for 2 seats to them ??
> >
> > Michael
> >
> > Vin 6067 (in under a week)



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:45:19 -0000
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>
Subject: Re: Restored Engine Compartment

I am gonna go dig one up. What i started with was embarrising. The 
entire compartemnt was brown along with rusty bolts etc.. I wil dig 
up a pic and post it. Thanks

Jon

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Stunning!  Can you post a picture of what you started with?  
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN16867



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:01:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device

You bring up an interesting problem. If the Delorean floats, how to 
get out? I suspect it will quickly start to go down rear end first 
because of the motor but you can't climb out a window and as soon as 
you open a door (assuming you can against the force of the water) it 
will go down like a rock! I guess that you could kick out the front 
windscreen or push a fire extinguisher through it and climb out that 
way tearing yourself up in the process. Adding weight to the front of 
the car will make the car harder to steer at normal speeds, increase 
the stopping distance, reduce the suspension travel by lowering the 
height, wear the front tires faster, and induce oversteer. The car was 
not designed for a lot of weight on the front, it is a very balanced 
design.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Darin Wolf" <son_darin_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> So far I may have the topic set in an akward idea.  However, What I 
> am about to suggest is in idle curiosity.  I've heard rumor 





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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:17:49 -0000
From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust stud removal

Thanks for everbody's input. I did find a stud remover off one of 
those nap-on type trucks. It ran me about $25.00 but worked 
great. Also PB Blaster seamed to help out as well. This is not 
any easy job, I wouldn't recommend many people to do this.

One additional question. When putting the new studs in, does 
anyone know the toque setting? When putting the studs in, do I 
just hand tighten them in, or do a need to double nut to torque 
them in?

thanks,

pat vin 5552




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:08:42 EST
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: For Sale -- LockZilla Remote

I have for sale, the LockZilla Remote Unit.
If interested, E-mail me private:  kayoong(at)aol.com

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY


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