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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1445
Date: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 7:38 AM

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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: My "New to Me" Delorean.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. Aftermarket car stereos_ Blaupunkt CD
From: "John Elgersma" <>

3. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device
From: "John Elgersma" <>

4. Re: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.
From: Todd Masinelli <>

5. Re: Power Steering
From: Bob Brandys <>

6. Was Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. Now Locking Module
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

7. Exhaust Studs, what torque?
From: "schab932000" <>

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:52:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: My "New to Me" Delorean.

I think the position you are referring to is the spot the fan fail 
relay plugs into. This is not in any way for the door locking module. 
It should have something in there or the cooling fans won't work. As 
far as the locking module not functioning, unless you have something 
better than the origional locking module to use just unplug it and 
forget about it. It could be it has already failed, possibly frying 
the door solenoids. If you know for a fact the door was removed, it is 
VERY hard to reinstall a door and get it lined up well. It is kind of 
like working in reverse, when the car was made all of the other panels 
were adjusted to fit to the doors. When you replace the door the 
temptation is to try to adjust the door to the ajacent panels, not 
always successful. You should put together an order to one of the 
Delorean venders. In it include 2 oil filters, 1 now and another for 
later but most important a Workshop Manual! You can't do things on the 
car "by the book" if you don't have one!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_y...> 
> Also david im having a problem trying to figure out
> why the door locks are not operating the coneection to
> the modules are fully intact around the fuse box and
> checked all fuses. there is a missing square i think
> is a relay the square that has the connector holes
> that the relay plugs into is absolutely blue and is
> located on the far left of the board that had like
> five lined relays in a row that then come close to
> abutting the fuse box. My question is the pale blue
> square that has the little holes is that for the power
> door locks?? 


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:20:02 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <>
Subject: Aftermarket car stereos_ Blaupunkt CD

Aftermarket stereos is something you can experiment with. As there 
are so many different makes & models out there, I decided to find 
something that looked clean, refined, unnoticeable and blend into the 
dash colors. I have yet to see anything that even comes close to the 
Blaupunkt CD Receivers. I since then restored my Delorean back to the 
Craig system because of collector status/insurance. The RPDA9000 
model was black with white lettering and some red and blue on the 
front panel as well. These colors matched the main switch panel in 
the center console really nicely.I have seen quite a few aftermarket 
stereos in Deloreans and they all stick out like a real aftermarket 
system. If you want a modern system for a Delorean that does not look 
ultra modern but conservative with all the features, try Blaupunkt. 
If CD players were available for the Delorean in 81, this is probably 
what it would have looked like. Even the steering wheel wireless 
remote looks good in the car. Blaupunkt makes a not too flashy system 
so that theft is ruled out as it looks stock even in a Delorean, this 
modern system blends in.
I will have a picture posted soon.


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:30:49 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device

The German-made Amphicar from the sixties might be your better choice 
for a floating car. These little twin-prop vehicles, again mostly 
made for the US market are cute. Almost bought one myself for $1000 
for restoration but decided to buy Delorean instead. Maybe we should 
tell Rich to make a Delorean boat. If you have not seen his stuff, go 
look at:
Have fun!


Message: 4
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:21:09 -0600
From: Todd Masinelli <>
Subject: Re: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming.

> eliminating the AC bezel light completely during the day.
> The panel now just illuminates when I turn on the lights.

Another way to achieve this was posted to the list by Jim Reeve a while
back.  Just get a 12V/30A 4-spade relay from Radio Shack and put it in the
third slot from the left in the row closest to the rear of the car.  Your AC
bezel will only light when the headlights are on, and the existing red
resistor will dim it for easier nighttime viewing.  I've been running this
setup for about a year and I'm quite pleased with it.

Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:32:58 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: Power Steering

Some of us have looked into this issue.  The big problem is that the 
tube in the frame is too small for a power R& P.   However, if you get 
one of the new Pearce SS frames you might be able to get a larger tube 

On the other hand if you wanted to reworked the stock D frame you might 
be able to accomplish this.



Message: 6
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 02:55:12 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Was Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. Now Locking Module

The locking module will stay activated if the adjustment inside the 
door deteriorates. The safe thing to do is put a 10 amp circuit 
breaker in place of the original CB. Once the power goes out it 
resets. It is a good fail safe and protection for the circuit. 
Proper functioning isn't affected by the low amp CB.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
> The locking module will fail locking you in the car, killing the
> battery and burning up the solenoids in the doors. Until you can
> upgrade either by getting a Lockzilla or reworking the module it is
> safer to disconnect it.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> --- In, jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg_at_dml_y...> 
> > David why do you want to disconnect the locking module
> > i presume that is for the door locks?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> > > Check to see that the lambda circuit is operating ...
> > 
> > <snip -- excessive quoted material removed>
> > 
> > > ... the fuses. Save up for at least a Fanzilla and
> > > disconnect the locking
> > > module. 
> > >  You are on your way to the TOTAL enjoyment of a
> > > Delorean.
> > > David Teitelbaum
> > > vin 10757
> > > 
> > >


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 03:18:40 -0000
From: "schab932000" <>
Subject: Exhaust Studs, what torque?

Thanks for everyone advice on romoving those exhaust studs. In 
the end, it was a combination of a lot of PB Blaster (like liquid 
wrench), a stud extractor (looks like a normal socket, but with 
spiral inners that grip onto the stud) and a propane torch. I did 
buy some freezer spray as well, but I think the torch never got 
things hot enough to take advantage of the spray.

I ground down the manifolds to smooth the gasket surface. 
However the edges are rusted pretty good so I can't take them 
down without loosing a bunch of steel. Some areas around the 
exhaust holes have only about 1/4" of flat contact surface to the 
gasket. Is this okay?

Next question, when putting the new studs back in, do I just hand 
tighten them and when I eventually put the manifold and nuts 
back on, will it set itself. Or should I double nut the studs and 
torque the studs in, remove the nuts, then put the manifold on 
then put the nuts back on?

Finally, what torque do these studs need to be at.

Thanks again,



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