From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1452
Date: Sunday, April 06, 2003 7:13 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Help with Speedometer
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

2. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

3. Re: Help with Speedometer
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Idle Problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>

6. Re: Idle Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: BTTF Midi File
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

9. Re: Digest Number 1451
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>

10. Re: Idle Problem
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

11. Hernando County Owner?
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>

12. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

13. Re: Help with Speedometer
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

14. Re: Delorean
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

17. Re: Re: Fire in the engineroom.
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

18. Re: Help with Speedometer
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Idle Problem
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Alternative to expensive replacement fuel pump - baffle hose
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Help with Speedometer
From: "Wesley Helmers" <redneck382_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Help with Speedometer
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

23. Re: Idle Problem
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: My MCD Still leaking water
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

25. Fuel Pump Access Cover
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 22:37:45 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Help with Speedometer

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hey guys, here's my problem...
> 
> Just got my Delorean.  It's VIN 2944 Aug 81 build date with black 
> interior and an auto.
> 
> Shorly after I got the car the spedometer started to work 
> intermitantly.  Eventually it just stopped.  I ordered a new lower 
> speedo cable and installed it.  It was the braded stainless steel one 
> from specialtauto in Wash.  However after istalling it the darn 
> speedometer still doesn't work.
<SNIP>

It's a problem with either the angle drive, or the dust cap on the
wheel hub. If you pull the wheel, and the dust cap, it should have a
square hole. This is what turns the input shaft on the angle drive,
and makes the whole system work. It has been said that fails when the
square hole begins to round itself out, and will lose grip of the
input shaft. This was half true in my case. The square hole did begin
to round out, but the cap itself also seemed to have shrank. When I
installed the new cap, it had a far tighter fit into the hub, and
wouldn't spin unless I forced it.

A very easy repair, and an inexpensive one _at_dml_ around $15 for the dust cap.

>From my personal experience, I have never had an angle drive fail on
me, so I don't know if there are any specific symptoms, sounds, or
tell-tale signs. However, when my dust cap failed, it began to operate
quite sporadicly, and then became totally intermidant. It was a slow
process, and not a sudden one.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 22:25:49 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> A few monhs ago I asked some advice on my D's passenger side floor
pan that
> had about a gallon of water from a recent rain/snow storm.  From your
> suggestions I spend another $1000 and replaced all the weather seal
around
> the doors, 
<SNIP>
I inspected all the head liner and
> there is no dampness or water marks and after my thorough job on the
door
> jams I can not see how it would be coming from there. This is
getting very
> depressing as now once again I have my seat and carpet removed and being
> dried again.   Does anyone know of any other potential
vulnerabilities or
> places that I can check?
> 
> Thanks
> Jason


At the bottom of the windshield is the fresh air intake for the blower
motor. It's a chambered design that will allow fresh air to flow in
from the top, but will allow any water to drain out from the bottom,
onto the top of the gas tank. Chances are that it's the drain plug at
the bottom that is causing you problem, because it's probably plugged
up. This I know because I had the same exact problem with my car when
I first got it.

There can also be a problem with the seal for the boot in the passener
side foot well, where the A/C and heater lines enter into the
passenger compartment. But this only occurs while driver (water kicked
up by the wheel), and wouldn't allow THAT much water inside.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 22:56:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Help with Speedometer

Here are some other things to look at and try:

1)Make sure the plastic disc (drive disk) is captured tight between
the rim and rotor (wrap with some tape if you have to)

2)Make sure the hole in the center of the drive disk is not rounded
out ie; it should be square and hold the square cable tightly

3) Make sure you have a support bracket for the lower speedo cable.

 The speedo is completly mechanical so any electrical things going on
have no effect on the speedo except for illumination.

If all of these suggestions don't help you may have a dead angle drive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Hey guys, here's my problem...
> 
> Just got my Delorean.  It's VIN 2944 Aug 81 build date with black 
> interior and an auto.
> 
> Shorly after I got the car the spedometer started to work 
> intermitantly.  Eventually it just stopped.  I ordered a new lower 
> speedo cable and installed it.  It was the braded stainless steel one 
> from specialtauto in Wash.  However after istalling it the darn 
> speedometer still doesn't work.  
> 
> Additional ifo itf this helps:
> All of the other dash guages work but when you start the car the 
> other guages "come alive" but the speedometer needle stays "limp".
> Any help will GREATLY be appreciated.
> 
> Michael2)
> Vin #2944 




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 00:34:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Problem

My opinions on *AGED* automatic idle speed system are known and
controversial. Contact me off list (brobertson(AT)carolina.net) if
you'd like to discuss manual alternative. Requires no modification to
engine (manual idle circuit already built into PRV for Volvos etc).
Lacks convenience of *PROPERLY FUNCTIONING* automatic system, but I
guarantee idle will stay put where you set it.

Bill Robertson
#5939 (slowly being reduced to pure essentials)

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vrvader" <vrvader_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have a question based on my idle. (I have an 81, 5 speed)
> 
> When I start the car it idles as normal (after an initial high idle 
> and then kick down in a few seconds).  As I drive and stop the car 
> seems to idle fine.
> 
> After about 20 minutes of driving when I come to a stop the car 
> wants to idle at 1500 - 2000.  If I blip the throttle it does not 
> seem to make a difference.  If I rev the engine up close to red line 
> and let it fall down it tends to drop to around 1000 RPM ( a little 
> high still but better).
> 
> I have opened the engine bay during one of these high idle sessions 
> and pushed on the throttle and it did not make a difference so I do 
> not believe it is based on a sticky cable or such things.
> 
> What may be causing this?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your advice




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 19:43:57 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
From: "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

Jason;
Had the same problem tried the same fix got the same results.  The problem
on mine was the out side air vent.
 In front of the rider side wind shield there is a large open well about 3
x4" or so  which has a drain hole in the bottom.  This drain hole can get
plugged with just one leaf, (has a tube on it that could also be a problem,)
then when it rains the well will fill with water and it will enter the air
inlet and fill up the rider side floor.  The air inlet is closer to the top
on the out side edge of this well,  it is hard to see. 
 Remove the gill across the front just below the wind shield and you can see
all this really well.  When the well is not plugged the water comes in but
runs out the drain and there is no problem.  
 Pour some water in that well and look and see if it comes right out the
bottom below the car, if not, something is plugged.  Pour a little more and
your floor will be wet again. 
I made a long copper (1/4"copper) tube that fits on my air compressor so I
can blow that well out really easy without removing the gill.  I think a
screen installed over the opening to keep trash out would be a better fix.
Yours in the hobby
Jerry Harry
Vin # 4890 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, April 05, 2003 03:51:14 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] My MCD Still leaking water
 
A few monhs ago I asked some advice on my D's passenger side floor pan that
had about a gallon of water from a recent rain/snow storm. 



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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 23:05:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Problem

You have to look at the throttle linkage and make sure it is actually
returning to idle and tripping the idle micro. It is easy to do. With
the engine OFF rotate the throttle spool under the cover plate (if you
have the throttle recall) and watch the arm atached to the throttle
plates by the micro switch. When you release the throttle spool it
should consistanly hit the micro switch. I am guessing the throttle
cable is binding and not letting it return fully to idle. Make sure
any floor mats are not interfering with the pedal. You can also
increase the spring pressure by moving the end of the spring inside
the throttle spool to the next spot. You could also try lubricating
the cable as per the throttle recall. Inspect the wiring to make sure
it isn't geting caught by any linkage preventing it from getting to idle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vrvader" <vrvader_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have a question based on my idle. (I have an 81, 5 speed)
> 
> When I start the car it idles as normal (after an initial high idle 
> and then kick down in a few seconds).  As I drive and stop the car 
> seems to idle fine.
> 
> After about 20 minutes of driving when I come to a stop the car 
> wants to idle at 1500 - 2000.  If I blip the throttle it does not 
> seem to make a difference.  If I rev the engine up close to red line 
> and let it fall down it tends to drop to around 1000 RPM ( a little 
> high still but better).
> 
> I have opened the engine bay during one of these high idle sessions 
> and pushed on the throttle and it did not make a difference so I do 
> not believe it is based on a sticky cable or such things.
> 
> What may be causing this?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your advice




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 16:20:51 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

Jason

Sounds like the drain for the fresh air vent is clogged. This is not 
uncommon if you park it outside where debris can accumulate on the 
fresh air grill and eventually fall into the trap and clog it. The 
water will back up and spill into the cabin through the mounting 
seams, the fan motor cooling hose/vent, or the plenum if the plenum 
drain is also clogged. You access the water drain through the 
inspection cover in the spare tire well - the same one to access the 
fuel pump.

I would suggest using water from a nozzled hose and start spraying 
area by area until you find the leak. I would start with spraying on 
the windshield for a while watching inside for an eventual leak. If 
that is fine then start around the rest of the passenger side area. 
There is a bulletin ST-33-12/81 "Water Leaks - Body" that may be a 
helpful reference.

Don't trust the looks of OEM sealing on areas. I have found areas 
that look fine until I pealed the stuff off and discovered dirt or 
crud under the sealer that resulted in a partial seal no seal at 
all. The most difficult leak I tried to find was a leak that came in 
through the back of the door seal at the bend by the front door 
latch. I was to the point where I was allowing water to trickle down 
the door channel to see how it flowed and as the water ran over the 
back of the seal some went in behind where it bent. It would fill up 
the floor pan if it rained hard enough. I spread silicone over the 
fiberglass mounting area there and then put the door seal back on. 
It is still sealed.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> A few monhs ago I asked some advice on my D's passenger side floor 
pan that
> had about a gallon of water from a recent rain/snow storm.  




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 10:00:21 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF Midi File

I posted it to the files section in a folder called BTTF

regards,

Michael Paine
#6067 [ "real soon now" (tm) ]

> Does anyone know where I can get a MIDI file of the back to the 
> future
> theme song?   I want to use it as my cell phone ringer.
>  
> Kevin Abato
> Vin #16680



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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 13:50:29 -0500
From: Travis Graham <tgraham_at_dml_noroads.com>
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1451

Hi Michael,

You're probably experiencing a common ailment: a broken angle drive.  
And you have one option if this is the case: get a new one!

Before hauling off to buy a new one though, try one thing: take off the 
front left wheel and remove the plastic cap from the end of the hub.  
This cap actually grips the end of the square angle drive shaft and if 
it's stripped, the shaft won't spin...and your speedometer won't move!  
But, if the cap isn't stripped, you're probably looking at a new angle 
drive.  If your angle drive is like mine was, you'll know that it's 
broken because you can remove the shaft!  The drive itself isn't too 
hard to replace once you remove that large pesky nut which holds it in 
place - and it will probably take some force (and possibly a few choice 
words) to remove that!

After you get the new one installed, you can attempt to make it last 
longer by taking off the filler screw on top and dropping in some 90W 
gear oil (I use synthetic gear oil on mine - it's great stuff).  Do 
this around every 3k miles or so and hopefully it will last a bit 
longer.  I've seen some weatherproofing kits for the angle drives as 
well.  You may want to inquire about one of these.

Best wishes,
Travis Graham
#6344

On Sunday, April 6, 2003, at 05:48  AM, dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com wrote:

> Shorly after I got the car the spedometer started to work
> intermitantly.  Eventually it just stopped.  I ordered a new lower
> speedo cable and installed it.  It was the braded stainless steel one
> from specialtauto in Wash.  However after istalling it the darn
> speedometer still doesn't work. 
>  




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 23:17:11 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle Problem

Even though the cable is mostly the culprit, I would still lubricate it along 
with the throttle body shaft. You may also want to take the throttle body out 
/ off and clean it inside where the butterflies are. They may not be seating 
properly. Then I would check for the idle speed microswitch for operating 
properly electrical and mechanical. Then if it is working ok then check the 
idle speed motor for sticking and the connections.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



<< I have a question based on my idle. (I have an 81, 5 speed)
 
 When I start the car it idles as normal (after an initial high idle 
 and then kick down in a few seconds).  As I drive and stop the car 
 seems to idle fine.
 
 After about 20 minutes of driving when I come to a stop the car 
 wants to idle at 1500 - 2000.  If I blip the throttle it does not 
 seem to make a difference.  If I rev the engine up close to red line 
 and let it fall down it tends to drop to around 1000 RPM ( a little 
 high still but better).
 
 I have opened the engine bay during one of these high idle sessions 
 and pushed on the throttle and it did not make a difference so I do 
 not believe it is based on a sticky cable or such things.
 
 What may be causing this?
  >>



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 23:39:38 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>
Subject: Hernando County Owner?

Hey list - 

I was with my family this weekend visiting my mom's aunt, when my dad 
tells me her neighbor had a De Lorean! Turns out, he was later 
arrested because he killed someone in it! If anyone got their D from 
a Hernando County police auction, or someplace nearby, I thought they 
should know about that! It may still be in the state system, if so, I 
will try to buy it at auction (don't know how, but i'll still try :)!)

dmcorlando2003, could you email me offlist? StadnickAd(AT)
usa.irene.net






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 03:22:49 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

Could it possibly be leaking in from somewhere up front under the 
dash? There are numerous openings for the heater hoses, cables and 
stuff. 

Adam 16683


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> A few monhs ago I asked some advice on my D's passenger side floor 
pan that
> had about a gallon of water from a recent rain/snow storm.  From 
your
> suggestions I spend another $1000 and replaced all the weather seal 
around



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 10:38:03 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Help with Speedometer

Hi,

I am new to the list but it sounds like a broken speedometer angle 
drive to me...

I just my $.02

regards,

Michael Paine
#6067 [ "real soon now" (tm) ]


> Hey guys, here's my problem...
> 
> Just got my Delorean.  It's VIN 2944 Aug 81 build date with black 
> interior and an auto.
> 
> Shorly after I got the car the spedometer started to work 
> intermitantly.  



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 23:39:17 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Delorean

Mike, You may have a broken pick up line. You can eliminate all the baffle 
system line problems and fuel system pick up problems with my new baffle 
system which has no hose to collapse. 
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< here is my problem, when my fuel is about at 1/2 a tank the cars starts to 
sputter a little bit. when I go the gas station and fuel up, and top it off, 
it runs great, and does not stall out. The fuel pump has recently been 
replaced, and now my next minor trouble shooting problem will be to change 
the fuel filter. I was looking through the Delorean service manual from 
Delorean One, and I learned how complex the fuel system is with constantly 
being under pressure. so I figured on checking all the hoses and making sure 
they are tight and secure. Do you have any suggestions, or referrals for me?
 
 Thank you
 
 Michael Miller
  >>



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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 07:09:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

Jason & others

Many years ago I had that same problem and almost had
a neervous breakdown trying to figure where the
%(&^&%$% water was coming from.  I discovered the
drain was plugged.

The drain  that allows the water off the windshield to
go out under the car can easily get plugged with
leaves, pine needles (my case), etc.  When it does,
the water fills up under the  "rain grille" and
finally flows over the protctive baffle.  When this
happens, the passenger footwell is turned into a
wading pool.

Just another of the extra's included at no extra cost.

Dick Ryan
VUN 16867


--- Jason Jones <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com> wrote:
> A few monhs ago I asked some advice on my D's
> passenger side floor pan that
> had about a gallon of water from a recent rain/snow
> storm.  From your
> suggestions I spend another $1000 and replaced all
> the weather seal around
> the doors, re-sealed all 



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 09:03:53 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

Jason,

It would speculate based on my experience that
the water is coming from the fresh air intake into the heater -A/c  box.  

In order to fix this you will have to remove this box.  A big job to say 
the least.  
The fresh air intake should have a drain, but it appears to be plugged 
in your case.
Leaves, and other debris get in there and clog it up.

When it cleaned mine out, I had to remove the dash, glove box, knee pad, 
etc. and then the heater box.  You also have to remove the center 
console to get a some screws and the AC drain,
Took a number of weeks to do this.


There is no other way I know how to fix this unless you decide to cut 
the fiberglass body from underneath.  And access to that area is also 
very restricted.

.








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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 23:26:40 EST
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Fire in the engineroom.

Robert and group. 100% correct to replace the copper washers. That's why I 
carry a complete set and types of copper washers and 7mm hardware. They are 
hard to find and even I have to order a lot from Germany where the 7mm screws 
are made.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 

<< So, whenever you work on the fuel system, and it involves anything 
 where you have to remove a bolt, then you'll need to replace the 
 copper washers with brand new ones. Whats interesting about this is 
 that Pep-Boys, nor any other auto supply store that I've been to 
 carry the washers. Niether do BOSCH suppliers, however, they do sell 
 aluminium washers that fit and function just fine. I've used them on 
 my car with no problem at all. What the difference is (besides the 
 price to make them, I'm sure), I've no idea.
 
 -Robert
 vin 6585 "X"
  >>



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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:18:00 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Help with Speedometer



Additional ifo itf this helps:
All of the other dash guages work but when you start the car the 
other guages "come alive" but the speedometer needle stays "limp".
Any help will GREATLY be appreciated.

Michael
Vin #2944

Ah, a classic DeLorean problem.  Most likely you are in need of a new 
speedometer angle drive.  Diagnosis is as follows:

Raise front end of vehicle.  Speedo is driven by the driver's side front 
wheel.  Disconnect the upper speedo cable from the top of the lambda counter 
(bright yellow box in driver's side footwell).  Have a friend spin the front 
wheel and see if you can see the square fitting in the lambda box spin where 
you removed the upper cable.  It probably won't.  If it does, your problem is 
either in the connection for the upper cable, the upper cable itself, or the 
speedo is actually broken in the dash (all of which are not common).  

if it doesn't spin, then disconnect the lower cable where it goes into the 
lambda counter.  have someone spin the wheel - does the lower cable square 
fitting spin? probably not.  but if it does, your gears are broken in the 
lambda counter (more likely then a problem with the upper cable, but i doubt 
it.

if it doesn't, remove the front wheel and take off the plastic dust cap in 
the middle of the brake disc.  carefully inspect the center of the cap and 
see if the hole where the angle drive cable goes into it is stripped out.  it 
will be round if it is stripped, perfectly square if it is ok. it's probably 
rounded out.  now look at the cable that sticks thru the wheel bearing.  that 
is first drive cable into the angle drive.  does it have a square tip?  is 
the wire shredded?  does the wire slide out of the drive?  if the drive cable 
is trashed, it is not repairable and you need a new angle drive.  you cannot 
replace just the cable.

IF anything right here looks ok, disconnect where the lower cable goes into 
the angle drive.  spin the wheel and see if the cable in the angle drive 
spins.  i doubt it.  if not, you need a new angle drive.

what happens is the angle drive fails due to lack of lubrication or the gears 
inside it break.  when that happens, the cable stalls in the wheel hub so the 
wheel keeps turning but the wire doesn't.  this strips out the plastic cap 
and makes it round, damages the square tip of the wire, and sometimes pulls 
the wire out of the angle drive.  

if you find that any of these parts are bad, you must purchase the 
appropriate parts.  if i were you, and the angle drive OR dust cap are found 
to be damaged, i would order BOTH parts to replace because they are a weak 
part of the car.  i would recommend getting PJ Grady's hardcore series angle 
drive with stainless gears and molybdenom grease.  comes with a warranty too! 
 

Andy  

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:21:39 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Idle Problem

In a message dated 4/5/03 3:54:32 PM Central Standard Time, 
vrvader_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:


> I have opened the engine bay during one of these high idle sessions 
> and pushed on the throttle and it did not make a difference so I do 
> not believe it is based on a sticky cable or such things.
> 
> What may be causing this?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your advice

Check the idle speed kickdown switch.  it is the little switch under the 
intake by the throttle.  the hammer comes down and should JUST engage the 
switch when you take your foot off the gas.  with the car shut off, use the 
throttle with your hand and listen for a distinct 'click' from the idle 
switch.  if you don't hear it, try starting the car and using a pencil to 
engage the switch.  does that help?  if it kicks down and stays faily stable 
(around 800 RPM), then you need to do some throttle linkage adjustments.

Andy

Andy

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 00:26:05 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Alternative to expensive replacement fuel pump - baffle hose

Oops -- misspoke: should have said baffle barely missed a beat even
when rounding corners (told you those pain drugs are good...). Can't
remember exactly how much gas I bought, but was more than 12 gallons.
John Hervey's design is pretty good to keep supplying even when fuel
level is that low.

Bill Robertson (losing brain cells every day...)
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> For same price as replacement fuel pump - baffle hose you could buy
> John Hervey's simplified baffle. I have one myself and recommend
> highly. Before my sending unit replaced, once ran car to a gallon or
> so (accident). Baffle didn't miss a beat until rounding corners.
> 
> Whichever components you use, treat yourself to a first class fuel
> pickup system (including pump, boot, etc). Is some of the best money
> you'll spend on car.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939




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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 03:12:38 -0000
From: "Wesley Helmers" <redneck382_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Help with Speedometer

Have You Considered Checking The Speedometer Head Itself? I Could Be 
Wrong But Check There If It Needs To Be Replaced Do So. I Thought 
That I Would Ask That.

    Thanks,
   Wesley Helmers
   Delorean Enthusasist




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Hey guys, here's my problem...
> 
> Just got my Delorean.  It's VIN 2944 Aug 81 build date with black 
> interior and an auto.
> 
> Shorly after I got the car the spedometer started to work 
> intermitantly.  Eventually it just stopped



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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 13:03:48 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Help with Speedometer

On Fri, 04 Apr 2003 23:34:48 -0000,"dmcorlando2003" wrote:

> Shorly after I got the car the spedometer started to work
> intermitantly.  Eventually it just stopped.  I ordered a new lower
> speedo cable and installed it.  It was the braded stainless steel one
> from specialtauto in Wash.  However after istalling it the darn
> speedometer still doesn't work.

Did you check if the old speedocable was defective?
Did you check is the Angle Drive was functional?
If not, did you check if the drive cap was in place,
fit snugly in the hub and the hole on the back wasn't rounded out?
IMHO the angle drive is MUCH more prone to failure than the lower
speedo cable. Do you have the lower Speedo Cable Bracket on your car?
Without this there's an unacceptable amount of stress on the Angle Drive,
which causes it to wear out prematurely, or can result in the cable
snagging in the wheel, especially on left hand turns...

Have a look in the Photo's section, in the folder "Techie Stuff",
there's a folder there called "Angle Drive" which I put up over
a year ago, showing the bracket and the wheather proofing kit.

> All of the other dash guages work but when you start the car the
> other guages "come alive" but the speedometer needle stays "limp".

That's normal; the speedo is driven meachanically by the cable,
all the other gauges are driven electrically, so they "come alive"
when you turn on the ignition, the speedo starts moving when you drive.

Good luck,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002

------------------------------





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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 16:44:42 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Problem

Assuming all else is ok, look for a vacuum leak at the vacuum 
solenoid for the distributor. The vacuum line goes from a valve 
under the intake manifold to the solenoid then from the solenoid to 
the distributor. You can see the routing on the hose routing sticker 
on the engine cover. It is activated after the engine warms up so I 
would be suspect of a vacuum leak in that line causing a fast idle 
when warmed up.

Harold McElraft - 3354



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vrvader" <vrvader_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I have a question based on my idle. (I have an 81, 5 speed)





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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 19:13:41 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water


The fixed door glass on the passenger & drivers side should also be resealed. 



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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 18:14:25 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump Access Cover

My fuel pump access cover has been taken off to install a Tankzilla before i bought the
car. My question is what holds the fuel pump access cover back on?

Mark
6683





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