From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1455
Date: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 5:22 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Lowered suspension
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>

2. Re: Delorean For Sale
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: i'm also running rich!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: brakes need bleeding again?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Adjusting fuel mixture
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. RE: brakes need bleeding again?
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. Re: Lowered suspension
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: BTTF Midi File
From: "David W. Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_msn.com>

9. Re: Water leak continues...
From: "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>

10. Re: Lowered suspension
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

11. Re: i'm also running rich!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. I'm also running rich!
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

13. RE: Adjusting fuel mixture
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

14. Re: brakes need bleeding again?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Adjusting fuel mixture
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

16. Recent article on 50,000 miles Delorean
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>

17. Engine Performance questions
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

18. B pillar trim
From: "Chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

19. San Diego event - April 19
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>

20. Re: Re: i'm also running rich!
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

21. Front lower control arm replacement
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

22. Bricklin for sale in Las Vegas.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 19:19:56 -0700
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Lowered suspension

Hi Steve 10005,

I just ordered Marty's set-up and it should be here at the end of the
week. He is extremely nice and helpful guy. His stuff can be found at:

http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/shocks.html

I hope this helped....let me know..

Thnx,

Ski 4649

-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Deichman [mailto:swdeichman_at_dml_YAHOO.COM] 
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 4:32 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Lowered suspension


What is the "Marty Maier's shock set-up"??
where can this info be found?
Thanks,
steve 10005
 
 
> Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:James,
>
> i have the exact same setup as Harold - Grady's lowered
> front springs with Marty Maier's shock set-up. Marty's
> rear shocks have an adjustable collar so you can adjust
> the ride height a little. on my car, the rear is lowered
> just a little and the front wheels has equal spacing all
> the way around the wheel well - which is the way it should look, IMHO.

> i haven't ridden in enough other D's to attest to how much of a 
> difference this suspension setup makes, but i do know that i 
> definitely prefer my DeLorean to my 1990 cutlass supreme!
>
> i also agree with Harold as far as the front end goes - sometimes it 
> feels a little loose but i also need new tie rod ends so maybe it's 
> not the suspension's fault. either way, i'm sure it's better than the 
> stock ride and it certainly looks great too!
>
> Andy


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 02:29:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Delorean For Sale

Wondered if that ID was you... (New Jersey...)

Server hosting your additional pics 404's after too many hits. Could
you create a temporary photo folder on Yahoo site until auction closes?

Whose ex-wife, yours or original owner?

Bill Robertson (ex didn't cut up anything, she just took it all)
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Since I have not been able to sell this car yet I have finally been 
> able to get it up on E-bay. For those of you looking for the bargin of 
> the year try this one! It is opening at $4,500. Happy Bidding!
> 1982 5-speed gray interior. Motor runs, needs tires, windshield, 
> driver's seat leather, power antennae, cooling system maintaince, 
> tune-up, headliners and a really good cleaning. S/S has 2 small dings 
> but otherwise very clean exterior. Get this one in time for the Spring 
> Social nearby!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 02:52:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: i'm also running rich!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> i have been reading the current conversation about cars running 
rich.  i have 
> a similar problem with only one hang-up - my car starts every time 
and runs 
> well!

Andy

This could be several things but I think I would start with several 
quick possibilities - be sure the wires for the fuel warm up 
regulator and the cold start valve are not crossed. (The cold start 
valve wire has a blue cap just like the valve) 

Next I would check the vacuum lines going to the fuel warm up 
regulator and be sure the vacuum is off once warmed up. If it still 
has vacuum then the valve under the intake manifold is bad. That 
same vacuum valve under the intake manifold also operates vacuum to 
the distributor. Sounds like if you feel you need more timing, 
vacuum may not be getting to the distributor advance. The valve 
sends vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and no vacuum to the 
distributor below 40F. Above 40F just reverse, vacuum to the 
distributor advance no vacuum to the fuel regulator.

If all is ok so far I would take off the cold start valve place it 
in a small jar, put your thumb over the cold start valve hole (if it 
is too hot use something to plug the hole but be careful there is 
vacuum created so don't use something that will get sucked into the 
intake) and start the engine. Observe if the cold start valve is 
activated or leaking. It should be dry with no fuel discharge if it 
is functioning properly (above 40F).

Next, be sure the frequency valve is buzzing. If it isn't it could 
be stuck or the lambda system has died on you. But, since you say it 
hunts, this is not as likely.

If that is ok then I would have Hervey at SpecialTauto clean and 
inspect your injectors and test the fuel warm up regulator.

Bottom line - your fuel is either leaking into the engine through an 
injector or cold start valve or the regulating pressures are too low 
because of a defective fuel pressure regulator or frequency valve - 
or the system(s) that controls them.

Let us know what you find. 30 percent fuel loss it pretty large so I 
would think it is something fairly obvious.

Harold McElraft - 3354






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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 03:10:06 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: brakes need bleeding again?

Yes, you probably need to bleed again. With the steel lines the 
braking should feel a little bit firmer (as in hard pedal). With all 
four calipers down the bleeding sequence is more important. Farthest 
from the master cylinder first - RR, LR, RF, LF. Be sure you are 
bleeding to fresh fluid discharge. Also, if you are doing it the 
shade tree way with someone pushing on the master cylinder while 
another does the bleeding you have probably caused the master 
cylinder to leak internally for a while especially if the fluid was 
over five or six years old. (Could explain the lower pedal)

Harold McElraft - 3354





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 03:10:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Adjusting fuel mixture

Fully agree that fuel mixture screw isn't going to turn itself. If
yours hasn't been touched, look elsewhere for problem.

BUT

If you've touched screw and want to put it right again, there's a
visual procedure known as "cracking" a fuel injector:

1) Ensure everything else on engine is tight, properly adjusted, etc.
Make sure you don't have vacuum leak in front of vehicle (cap big take
off on passenger intake rail). MAKE SURE PROBLEM ISN'T WARM UP
REGULATOR. You only want to do this to put mixture screw back where it
used to be.

2) Run engine until warm (driver's formed coolant hose hot --
thermostat open).

3) Stop engine. Pop #3 fuel injector out of head and place in neck of
empty Coke bottle. Use length of 3/4" hose and 1/2 NPT pipe plug (or
other suitable metal object) to cap #3 injector port. Is little bit of
tight fit over metal lip.

4) Restart engine. You'll be able to see injector spray pattern in
Coke bottle. Adjust fuel mixture screw until pattern just changes from
a stream to a spray (clockwise to richen, counter to lean). This is a
"cracked" injector.

5) Leave mixture screw alone in the future.

Yet another helpful procedure from the Volvo newsgroups (DMC owners
should hang out there too -- treasure trove of useful info).

Bill Robertson#5939 (acting more like a Swedish "brick" every day)





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 22:19:14 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: brakes need bleeding again?

Sounds like you still have some air trapped in the system.
The master cylinder should be bled before bleeding the rest
of the system.  Then you will need to bleed the lines
again.  You might also have an air leak at the bleed nipples.
Try a little teflon tape on the threads, and open the
nipples just enough to get fluid flow.

A power bleeder really helps - one that pushes
fluid through the master cylinder rather than a system
that pulls through the calipers.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:19 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] brakes need bleeding again?


List,

this weekend i installed stainless braided brake lines and a new master
cylinder.  we flushed and bled the system with castrol GTLMA.  now it seems
like my brakes aren't quite as responsive as they used to be.  they go down
a
little further than they used to and it takes more force to get the same
stopping power.

i checked all the connections and nothing seems to be leaking so i assume
the
system is good and sealed. does this mean i should bleed the brakes again?
does the master cylinder need to be seperately bled?  any help is greatly
appreciated.

Andy





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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 03:24:49 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Lowered suspension

Under "Parts" at www.midstatedmc.com


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Steve Deichman <swdeichman_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> What is the "Marty Maier's shock set-up"??
> where can this info be found?
> Thanks,
> steve 10005
>  
>  
> > Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:James,
> >
> > i have the exact same setup as Harold - Grady's lowered
> > front springs with Marty Maier's shock set-up. Marty's
> > rear shocks have an adjustable collar so you can adjust
> > the ride height a little. on my car, the rear is lowered
> > just a little and the front wheels has equal spacing all
> > the way around the wheel well - which is the way it should
> > look, IMHO. i haven't ridden in enough other D's to attest
> > to how much of a difference this suspension setup makes,
> > but i do know that i definitely prefer my DeLorean to my
> > 1990 cutlass supreme!
> >
> > i also agree with Harold as far as the front end goes -
> > sometimes it feels a little loose but i also need new tie
> > rod ends so maybe it's not the suspension's fault. either
> > way, i'm sure it's better than the stock ride and it
> > certainly looks great too!
> >
> > Andy




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 23:49:46 -0400
From: "David W. Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF Midi File

[MODERATOR NOTE: Please respond to David by private email.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week.]

Better question. Can anyone tell me how to download the midi file to my
sprintpcs phone?

Thanks in advance,

David Silek

----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2003 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] BTTF Midi File


> I posted it to the files section in a folder called BTTF
>
> regards,
>
> Michael Paine
> #6067 [ "real soon now" (tm) ]
>
> > Does anyone know where I can get a MIDI file of the back to the
> > future
> > theme song?   I want to use it as my cell phone ringer.
> >
> > Kevin Abato
> > Vin #16680



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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 23:15:54 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
From: "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_mcloudteleco.com>
Subject: Re: Water leak continues...

 
 Jason:
           I see you are getting lots of help on the leak, however here is
one more to keep in mind.   
 When you park it with either side lower (about 5 inches from level) then
the water will not run up hill on the high side and out the grove around the
door, it runs back to the center, over comes the lip of the drain grove and
runs into the car. 
         The door drains from rider door to driver door are not connected,
so that water from the high side could run across and out the low side. 
After the seals are good and the groves are clean and the wind shield is
water tight and the air vent is not plugged, park it level if you think it
may rain. 

Jerry
Vin#4890
-------Original Message-------
 
From: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, April 07, 2003 06:21:52 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Water leak continues...
>
> Water leak sorta found it is coming in around the top right
> over the edge of the headliner in from of the visor. The
> fiberglass under the headliner right where it meets the top
> of the inside windshield. I opened the door and ran water in
> the area at the top and watched it run down the side like it
> should and I did not see any leakage. I shut the doors and ran
> water across the top where the T-panel is and man it just poured
> in. So I suspect the leak somewhere under the T-panel between
> the doors since all of my work on the doors I knew it could not
> be leaking from there. So any ideas on how to get the T-panel off
> to inspect further? Thanks for all of your suggestions!
>
> Jason



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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 22:47:01 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Lowered suspension

Check out Marty's shocks and some other items at the Mid-State DeLorean
Club site.

http://www.midstatedmc.com/

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 04:32 PM 4/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>What is the "Marty Maier's shock set-up"??
>where can this info be found?
>Thanks,
>steve 10005




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:28:27 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: i'm also running rich!

Sounds to me like you just need to have the mixture adjusted. Most cars 
hunt when cold then smooth out when the lambda cuts in. The cat bypass 
will make the engine breathe more easily and may cause it to run a bit 
lean, but the timing isn't affected.

Martin
#1458
#4426

Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>and with the cat eliminator pipe, should i have my timing adjusted? how much 
>and in which direction?
>
>Andy
>
>Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
>1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
>Fargo, ND 58102
>  
>





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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 08:28:01 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: I'm also running rich!

If you are dumping that much excess fuel, I would look at my oil too.  You
may be washing the cylinder walls and that will lead to excessive wear.
What do your spark plugs look like?  If you are running rich, the plugs
should be fouled, either black or wet with fuel.

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA

Snipped big-time by Scott


-----Original Message-----
From: Harold McElraft [mailto:hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 8:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: i'm also running rich!


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> i have been reading the current conversation about cars running
rich.  i have 
> a similar problem with only one hang-up - my car starts every time
and runs 
> well!

Andy




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 08:30:30 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Adjusting fuel mixture

Bill Robertson,

Which Volvo Newsgroup do you use?

Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:10 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Adjusting fuel mixture


Fully agree that fuel mixture screw isn't going to turn itself. If yours
hasn't been touched, look elsewhere for problem.

BUT

If you've touched screw and want to put it right again, there's a visual
procedure known as "cracking" a fuel injector:

Snipped by Scott

Bill Robertson#5939 (acting more like a Swedish "brick" every day)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:19:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: brakes need bleeding again?

If you have been bleeding and can't get a hard pedal either your 
bleeding technique is faulty, you have a fluid leak somewhere, a hose 
is swelling (bad) or the master cylinder is shot. I disagree with 
Harold's sequence, I start closest to the master cylinder ie; front 
left, front right, rear left rear right unless you are reverse 
pressurizing the system but that takes special equipment. NEVER reuse 
brake fluid, always put in fresh. Have an assistant pump the brakes 
and make sure he holds down the pedal as you tighten the bleeder! Have 
him hold the pedal down HARD and inspect all of the hoses for 
swelling. Look at all of the calipers for any signs of wetness 
(leaks). Look under the master cylinder for wetness and inside the 
vacuum hose from the booster. If you have to add ANY brake fluid after 
you bleed the system (and top it off) you have a leak and that is 
UNACCEPTABLE!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Yes, you probably need to bleed again. With the steel lines the 
> braking should feel a little bit firmer (as in hard pedal). With all 
> four calipers down the bleeding sequence is more important. Farthest 
> from the master cylinder first - RR, LR, RF, LF. Be sure you are 
> bleeding to fresh fluid discharge. Also, if you are doing it the 
> shade tree way with someone pushing on the master cylinder while 
> another does the bleeding you have probably caused the master 
> cylinder to leak internally for a while especially if the fluid was 
> over five or six years old. (Could explain the lower pedal)
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:30:50 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Adjusting fuel mixture

IMHO this procedure assumes too much. There is no way to know if 
everything else is PERFECT except the fuel mixture adjustment and this 
is not a very accurate way to set the mixture screw. The injector 
could be dirty or just a little tight. You really have to put 
the injector in a tester to clean it and check the opening and holding 
pressures. A better way to set the mixture is with a dwell meter 
reading the lambda system. Better yet leave the mixture adjustment 
screw alone, turning it won't "fix" anything. BTW this is a VERY 
sensitive adjustment, 1/8 of a turn can make a BIG change. Just make 
sure there is a good sealing plug in the housing above the screw. A 
plastic golf tee fits nice.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Fully agree that fuel mixture screw isn't going to turn itself. If
> yours hasn't been touched, look elsewhere for problem.
> 
> BUT
> 
> If you've touched screw and want to put it right again, there's a
> visual procedure known as "cracking" a fuel injector:
> 
> 1) Ensure everything else on engine is tight, properly adjusted, 
etc.
> Make sure you don't have vacuum leak in front of vehicle (cap big 
take
> off on passenger intake rail). MAKE SURE PROBLEM ISN'T WARM UP
> REGULATOR. You only want to do this to put mixture screw back where 
it
> used to be.
> 
> 2) Run engine until warm (driver's formed coolant hose hot --
> thermostat open).
> 
> 3) Stop engine. Pop #3 fuel injector out of head and place in neck 
of
> empty Coke bottle. Use length of 3/4" hose and 1/2 NPT pipe plug (or
> other suitable metal object) to cap #3 injector port. Is little bit 
of
> tight fit over metal lip.
> 
> 4) Restart engine. You'll be able to see injector spray pattern in
> Coke bottle. Adjust fuel mixture screw until pattern just changes 
from
> a stream to a spray (clockwise to richen, counter to lean). This is 
a
> "cracked" injector.
> 
> 5) Leave mixture screw alone in the future.
> 
> Yet another helpful procedure from the Volvo newsgroups (DMC owners
> should hang out there too -- treasure trove of useful info).
> 
> Bill Robertson#5939 (acting more like a Swedish "brick" every day)




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 16:34:23 -0000
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: Recent article on 50,000 miles Delorean

Hello all,

I was buying a few things in the shop today and came across an brief 
one page artice on Delorean No 514 that went through a 50,000 mile 
endurance test driving round Northern Ireland Roads.  The driving 
was undertaken by the Ulster Automobile Club.  Report were generally 
favorable with the fastest run over a four hour shift being 300 
miles (this includes a coffee stop).

The car was driven 24hours a day and stoped for refueling and 
service checks only.

The test was started in Early 1981 and finished Sunday April 12.

The magazine is called "Buy and Sell".  Its a special edition for 
the ciruit of Ireland Rally and cost 5.00.

The publisher is B&S LTD, Lyndon Court, Queen Street, Belfast, BT1 
6BY.  Sorry no phone number.  

Just thought you may be interested.

e-mail me off list if anyone wants more info.

Cheers

Paul.






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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 19:05:22 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Engine Performance questions

I would like to get more out of my DeLorean engine, or make it sound
like it is not so small. Does anyone know any exhaust mods, any air
intake/filter mods etc. to make this so? Also, is my "Idle/low speed
motor (102502)" supposed to always be running, even when the key is
just on accessories? Thank you all -




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 22:07:05 +0100
From: "Chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: B pillar trim

What glue should I use to stick the B pillar back around the door. 

Whats the best way to glue, apply heat and get it in the right place? 

Thanks

Chris S
UK





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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 14:28:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Cox <DMCox_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: San Diego event - April 19

Here's the announcement, my comments follow:

**************

      The San Diego MG T Register

In conjuction with the

  San Diego British Car Club Council
              present

The 8th ANNUAL ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY

     SATURDAY, APRIL 19, 2003

We will leave from Milton's Deli Grill & Bakery in
Del Mar at 10:00am. Milton's Deli is in the Flower
Hill Shopping Center on Via de la Valle, just East
of Interstate 5 (Via de la Valle is an off ramp!)

Milton's serves up a great breakfast!  Be there at
8:00am, no later than 8:30 for breakfast. Otherwise,
you could grab some goodies from Milton's Bakery
and meet in the parking lot at 9:30 for tire-kickin'
and lie-telling.

We'll travel some Beautiful North San Diego County
backroads. Lunch and refreshments at:Penny Lane Pub
& Grille in San Marcos. Last year, we had over 70
cars from over 20 clubs. This year our goal is 100!

Questions?  Contact Steve Kirby: skirby210_at_dml_aol.com

***************
Last year, I was the lone Delorean among those 70 cars.  This year, it looks like we'll have at least a 400% improvement in the number of Deloreans attending!  I know the area that will be traveled, and it should be a very fun and interesting drive.  There is a scenic viewpoint located on southbound I-5 just 2 exits north of this meeting place.  I'm planning on being there at 8am, and leaving by 8:30.  If you are planning on attending, please contact me so that I can make arrangements with the Council for us.  I will also provide my cell phone number, so that you can contact me if there are any problems, or for directions.  My email address is dmcox (at) delorean.com.

Looking forward to seeing you on April 19th,
Dave
vin 16367
license DMC'S DMC

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Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp

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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 18:17:53 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Re: i'm also running rich!


BMW service centers clean the Bosch fuel injections with JECTRON cleaner for 
the K-Jetronic. You can find it at Bavarian MotorSports.

Mike



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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 00:06:29 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Front lower control arm replacement

As some of you may know, I suffered a catastrophic lower control arm 
failure some time back (see message #31584).

I decided to install the stainless front lower control arms from 
Pierce Design, and thought I would share the experience with the 
group.

The stainless control arms from Brian Pierce are simply gorgeous. 
>From the construction and quality of the welding, it is clear that 
highly skilled labor went into their construction. Where accessible, 
the welds are ground flush with the surrounding material and the 
arms are nicely polishied, reflecting the quality and care of 
workmanship.

As advertized, the control arms are constructed of stainless steel, 
and the material used is much more substantial than the original 
stamped control arms. The steel the arms are constructed from is 
substantially thicker and more robust than the original soft-steel 
control arms. The overall impression is that the control arms are 
much more robust and rigid than the originals.

During assembly, I encountered a minor issue in installing the inner 
bushings into the arms. The first bushing pressed nicely into the 
first control arm with reasonable pressure. The second bushing, 
however, was not as firmly in place as I would prefer. Upon closer 
examination I discovered that the two new bushings I had were of 
different styles, and it's likely that the second bushing was 
slightly undersized compared with the first one. Since the first one 
was already pressed home it was not feasible for me to compare their 
dimensions with the calipers, so I cann't be sure what the looser 
fit was attributed to. I readily fixed this by squeezing the bushing 
slightly out of round and pressing it home with a little dab of 
locktite for good measure. I suspect this issue was with the bushing 
I had and not due to any dimensional tolerance problem with the 
control arm.

I similarly encountered a minor issue when pressing the lower ball 
joints home. The reinforcement sleeve on the new control arms are 
much more substantial than the soft steel sleeve of the original 
control arms. Also the sleeve through which the ball joint is 
pressed is also substantially harder than on the original control 
arms. This combined to make it excessively difficult to press the 
ball joints into the arms. I believe the control arm dimensions are 
actually correct for the Pierce control arms and that the difficulty 
in pressing the ball joints in stem from the harder sleeve material 
that the friction grooves in the ball joint don't as readuly cut 
into. A sufficiently large press (bigger than I've got) probably 
would have pressed the ball joints home, but I didn't see a need for 
such measures. Using a flat file I merely shaved down the friction 
ridges on the body of the ball joints a little in order to allow 
them to be pressed home with reasonable pressure. A couple minutes 
filing down the ridges on the ball joints a little was all it took 
and then the ball joints pressed home nicely. The arm dimensions 
matched up precisely so the snap ring on the ball joint lies flush 
with the top surface of the control arm.

The final issue I encountered when installing the arms actually did 
appear to be a minor dimensional tolerance variance with the control 
arms. The width of the control arms at the point where the shock is 
attached was 50/1000th too narrow on both of the control arms. On 
the original soft control arms, such variance is not a problem since 
the arms are so soft that you can just spread the sides a little. 
The Pierce control arms, however, are much beefier and much more 
rigid. This again was not a real problem since it was just a matter 
of shaving off 50/1000th of the width of the lower shock mount which 
was readily accomplished with a few strokes of the flat file.

I'm very impressed with the stainless control arms. They are 
beautifully crafted, and they are clearly substantially more robust 
than the originals. Nice work by Brian Pierce in providing another 
quality component to help support our cars.

       Knut





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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 02:21:28 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Bricklin for sale in Las Vegas.

For anyone interested, there is a Bricklin for sale here in Las Vegas. In a 
nutshell, the drivetrain appears to be in great order, with a strong running 
engine. However, the body panels have been damaged due to the car being 
inappropriately painted w/o the proper type of primer. Otherwise, the lenses 
are clear, the glass is intact, and with the exception of a crack in the dash, the 
interior is beautiful! Slight leak in the pneumatic door system. '74 auto. There 
is a bit more to tell, but if you're interested, e-mail me directly for more details 
(so I don't clog up the list here too much).

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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