From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1456
Date: Thursday, April 10, 2003 5:38 AM

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There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. PRV engine output
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

2. Gas Tank Cleaning/Flushing
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com

3. Re: Engine Performance questions
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

4. Re: Houston Open House
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>

5. Re: Front lower control arm replacement
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Engine Performance questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Re: Adjusting fuel mixture
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

8. Re: Engine Performance questions
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

9. Volvo newsgroups
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Tellus Carriers
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

11. Re: B pillar trim
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Front lower control arm replacement
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: Re: brakes need bleeding again?
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

14. DMC Open House and roadside repair kits
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Fwd: VS: [prvsixengine] delorean
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

16. Re: Recent article on 50,000 miles Delorean
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

17. VS: [prvsixengine] Tuning PRV engine...
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com

18. Re: Engine Performance questions
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 12:08:45 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: PRV engine output

[MODERATOR NOTE: The message forwarded to the DML from another list.  Mike Pack got the author's permission to reproduce it here.  -Mike Substelny, DML moderating team]

This information was sent to me from the PRV Six engine list. 

Best Regards,
Mike Pack

Subj:    [prvsixengine] Tuning PRV engine...
Date:   04/07/2003 5:07:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From:   Bengt.Ruusunen_at_dml_novogroup.com (Ruusunen Bengt)
Reply-to:   prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com ('prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'), 
Riccardo.Gubbioli_at_dml_uk.dealogic.com ('Riccardo.Gubbioli_at_dml_uk.dealogic.com')

Hello,

Without knowing what kind of PRV engine is in question, and targeted power
level, it is difficult to give pinpointed engine tuning advice. Of course
there is best practices to follow, here is my thoughts...


Probably 'routes' to increase an PRV engine output is;

For 'light cost effective' tuning (natural aspirated);

- increase induction system efficiency (headers, free flow mufflers, larger
exhaust pipes and maybe inlet manifold, throttle body etc.)
- install 'performance' camshafts or camshafts from more powerful PRV model
like Peugeot ZPJ. (check the current and Peugeot engine firing order
compatibility).
- tune fuel delivery and spark advance in dyno.

- or maybe complete engine swap, with necessary electronics.
- install Kemira metal catalysators.


Natural aspirated version (240 - 280 Hp and more).

- full porting (inlet and exhaust tracks maybe with larger valves, three
angle valve seat job etc).
- increase compression ratio.
- increase induction system efficiency (headers, inlet manifold, throttle
body if 'plenum chamber version' or 6 butterflies etc.).
- install camshafts which offer more lift and duration (for best
driveability, cam timings up to 300 degrees (from zero lift and around
260-270 degrees measured from 1.27 / 0.050" lift) is maximum to go).
- uprated clutch and pressure plate (up to 350 - 450 Nm).
- install programmable ECU system.
- install Kemira metal catalysators (for ultimate go for racing version).
- steel connecting rods and forged pistons may be needed.

Forced induction version ('el cheap'o').

- increase current turbochargers efficiency by porting exhaust turbine
casing and maybe installing little bit larger compressor wheel.
- increase induction system efficiency (free flow mufflers, larger exhaust
pipe).
- install Kemira metal catalysators (for ultimate go for racing version).
- maybe uprated clutch (torque transfer around 450-600 Nm depending on
engine strength and 'output').
- install programmable ECU system.
- stronger steel connecting rods and forged pistons may be needed.

Forced induction version (hp limited by mechanical strength, turbochargers
volumetric efficiency and boost pressure).

- port heads (if you are targeting really 'hairy' engine :).
- 'larger' turbochargers for example Garret GT series or Turbonetics T04
core with suitable (maybe S3, V1 or V2) compressor and turbine). - Or
increase current turbochargers efficiency by porting exhaust turbine casing
and maybe installing little bit larger compressor wheel.
- increase induction system efficiency (free flow mufflers, larger exhaust
pipe).
- steel 'billet' connecting rods.
- pistons (mahle (turbo), Viseco etc.).
- uprated clutch (torque transfer up to 1500 Nm depending on planned engine
'output').
- install programmable ECU system.
- install Kemira metal catalysators (for ultimate go for racing version).


On turbocharged PRV equipped cars increasing ouput is much cheaper than in
natural aspirated. Mechanical strength is limiting factor where 'cost'
jumps.

for example valve sizes in 2 valve version Peugeot engine (ZPJ) are quite
large in standard form, so there is no need to install larger valves, but
additional power can be extracted by 'careful porting' inlet and exhaust
tracks.

Peugeot ZPJ engine is good transplant 'for starters' natural aspirated
tuning.
Renault Safrane Biturbo or Alpine turbo engine parts (albeit quite rare) for
forged induction tuning.

also one could look turbochargers from more common models like Saab or
Volvo. 
For performance wise adapting turbochargers (2) from 2.0 to 2.5 liter 4
cylinder engine is quite suitable for V6 a.ka 1.5 liter / 3 cylinder as per
one turbo.

For (both in natural aspirated or forced induction) 'serious tuning'
programmable ECU is way to go. 
For 'light' tuning remapping current ecu in dyno.

As what comes to mechanical (fex. K-Jetronic) fuel systems one can keep it
if one has knowledge etc. to tune them or tuning company nearby which
'knows' mechanical systems.

But, all in all as they say, your mileage may wary :)

Best regards,

Benkku



-----Alkuperäinen viesti-----
Lähettäjä: Grewcock. Charlie [mailto:CGrewcock_at_dml_lotuscars.co.uk] 
Lähetetty: 03. huhtikuuta 2003 20:41
Vastaanottaja: 'Riccardo.Gubbioli_at_dml_uk.dealogic.com'
Kopio: 'prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Aihe: FW: [prvsixengine] Looking for "PRV V6 Car of the Month" -candida tes!



Dear all I need to tune my PRV engine befor its maiden outing. Could some
one please point in the right direction. Instruct me how to do it. I have
been told that the 3 Screws in the center of the Plenums can be tricky.

Please help
> ----------
> From:     [SMTP:Riccardo.Gubbioli_at_dml_uk.dealogic.com]
> Reply To:     
> Sent:     25 February 2003 11:12
> To:   prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject:  Re: [prvsixengine] Looking for "PRV V6 Car of the Month"
> -candidates!
> 
> 
> Pertti,
> 
> Closer to the summer, when my car is out of storage, I will like to 
> take some pictures of my Thema V6, a rare version of a PRV placed in 
> longitudinal position.
> 
> Best regards,
> Riccardo

> Attention everybody!
> 
> There is a new "Car of the Month" section on the bottom of:
> 
> http://members.fortunecity.com/perttim/therenault30file/
> 
> where I intend to display a different PRV V6 car every month. If you 
> think that your car has potential to be Car of the Month, please e- 
> mail your photo/photos to: perttimakela_at_dml_douvrinprv.com
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Pertti M.
> prvsixengine Moderator
____________________________________________________________________________

Lotus Engineering - solutions beyond the conventional.
____________________________________________________________________________
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Group Lotus plc (Co. Reg. No. 606189)
Louts Cars Ltd (Co. Reg. No. 895081)
Registered Offices, Hethel, Norwich, Norfolk, NR14 8EZ







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 21:41:38 -0500
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com
Subject: Gas Tank Cleaning/Flushing

I'm going to be starting work on another car here rather quickly, and this
one has been sitting with gas in the tank for at least 4 years, so the first
thing I want to do is address the fuel system on this car before attemping
to turn it over.

What is the best method of cleaning out the fuel tank? Just drop and scrub,
or is there any cleaning agnets out there that would assist? Thanks.

Mike




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 22:54:32 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Performance questions

When the key is on and the idle speed micro switch is engaged then yes.
John 
www.specialtauto.com


<< I would like to get more out of my DeLorean engine, or make it sound
 like it is not so small. Does anyone know any exhaust mods, any air
 intake/filter mods etc. to make this so? Also, is my "Idle/low speed
 motor (102502)" supposed to always be running, even when the key is
 just on accessories? Thank you all -
  >>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 23:03:25 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo_at_dml_lightspeed.cx>
Subject: Re: Houston Open House

Ttry this one more time as I have not heard from anyone. Of course I'd 
prefer to ride instead of fly but I do also want to book the plane 
tickets earily (a bit cheaper) if nothing can be arranged. If I dont 
hear from anyone by the 20th, I'll book plane tickets instead.

Samuel

Samuel wrote:

>For the open house event, I am planning on going. I'm in Florida and see 
>that at least 1 person from Florida is also going. If you are driving 
>and wouldnt mind a passenger with you, could you email me off list, 
>Samuel (at) Lightspeed (dot) cx, to see if arrangements can be made to 
>get together for the trip. I'd appreciate it.
>
>Samuel
>
>James Espey wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Open House registration CLOSES on APRIL 25, unless the 150 limit is reached
>>sooner. I fully expect we will reach the 150 limit within the next two weeks
>>or so...



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 03:03:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Front lower control arm replacement

A very informative post. Just 2 quick questions, did you weigh the
origional and the S/S arms to see what the difference is? and how did
the alignment set up (you did go to a front end shop and have the
alignment checked didn't you?) I would also keep an eye on the bushing
that went in loose. Maybe a spot of paint or nail polish as a witness
mark so you can see at a glance if anything moves. If the paint cracks
you know it is moving! Place the paint across the joint where the
bushing meets the arm so the paint actually bridges the gap. Now if
the bushing moves the paint bridging the gap will be broken signifying
movement. This is a "trick" used commonly in aircraft where vibration
can move things and you inspect things constantly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> As some of you may know, I suffered a catastrophic lower control arm 
> failure some time back (see message #31584).
> 
> I decided to install the stainless front lower control arms from 
> Pierce Design, and thought I would share the experience with the 
> group.
> 
> The stainless control arms from Brian Pierce are simply gorgeous. 
> From the construction and quality of the welding, it is clear that 
> highly skilled labor went into their construction. Where accessible, 
> the welds are ground flush with the surrounding material and the 
> arms are nicely polishied, reflecting the quality and care of 
> workmanship.
> 
> As advertized, the control arms are constructed of stainless steel, 
> and the material used is much more substantial than the original 
> stamped control arms. The steel the arms are constructed from is 
> substantially thicker and more robust than the original soft-steel 
> control arms. The overall impression is that the control arms are 
> much more robust and rigid than the originals.
> 
> During assembly, I encountered a minor issue in installing the inner 
> bushings into the arms. The first bushing pressed nicely into the 
> first control arm with reasonable pressure. The second bushing, 
> however, was not as firmly in place as I would prefer. Upon closer 
> examination I discovered that the two new bushings I had were of 
> different styles, and it's likely that the second bushing was 
> slightly undersized compared with the first one. Since the first one 
> was already pressed home it was not feasible for me to compare their 
> dimensions with the calipers, so I cann't be sure what the looser 
> fit was attributed to. I readily fixed this by squeezing the bushing 
> slightly out of round and pressing it home with a little dab of 
> locktite for good measure. I suspect this issue was with the bushing 
> I had and not due to any dimensional tolerance problem with the 
> control arm.
> 
> I similarly encountered a minor issue when pressing the lower ball 
> joints home. The reinforcement sleeve on the new control arms are 
> much more substantial than the soft steel sleeve of the original 
> control arms. Also the sleeve through which the ball joint is 
> pressed is also substantially harder than on the original control 
> arms. This combined to make it excessively difficult to press the 
> ball joints into the arms. I believe the control arm dimensions are 
> actually correct for the Pierce control arms and that the difficulty 
> in pressing the ball joints in stem from the harder sleeve material 
> that the friction grooves in the ball joint don't as readuly cut 
> into. A sufficiently large press (bigger than I've got) probably 
> would have pressed the ball joints home, but I didn't see a need for 
> such measures. Using a flat file I merely shaved down the friction 
> ridges on the body of the ball joints a little in order to allow 
> them to be pressed home with reasonable pressure. A couple minutes 
> filing down the ridges on the ball joints a little was all it took 
> and then the ball joints pressed home nicely. The arm dimensions 
> matched up precisely so the snap ring on the ball joint lies flush 
> with the top surface of the control arm.
> 
> The final issue I encountered when installing the arms actually did 
> appear to be a minor dimensional tolerance variance with the control 
> arms. The width of the control arms at the point where the shock is 
> attached was 50/1000th too narrow on both of the control arms. On 
> the original soft control arms, such variance is not a problem since 
> the arms are so soft that you can just spread the sides a little. 
> The Pierce control arms, however, are much beefier and much more 
> rigid. This again was not a real problem since it was just a matter 
> of shaving off 50/1000th of the width of the lower shock mount which 
> was readily accomplished with a few strokes of the flat file.
> 
> I'm very impressed with the stainless control arms. They are 
> beautifully crafted, and they are clearly substantially more robust 
> than the originals. Nice work by Brian Pierce in providing another 
> quality component to help support our cars.
> 
>        Knut




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 03:07:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Performance questions

There is no quick bolt-on thing that will improve performance much.
The engine package is a very engineered, balanced system. If you want
to change the sound of the exhaust there are some modifacations you
can do but don't expect much.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I would like to get more out of my DeLorean engine, or make it sound
> like it is not so small. Does anyone know any exhaust mods, any air
> intake/filter mods etc. to make this so? Also, is my "Idle/low speed
> motor (102502)" supposed to always be running, even when the key is
> just on accessories? Thank you all -




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 03:51:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Adjusting fuel mixture

Volvo's don't have Lamda systems (nor does my R30).

Speaking of which, has anyone ever experimented removing Lamda valve
from the fuel loop? My fuel distributor is externally different so
don't know if lower chamber technology even applies (have a dimple
where DMC port is but not drilled & tapped). Seems reasonable you
could plug lower chamber port with a bolt (AND COPPER WASHER) and
route return line directly to tank.

This might be situation where fuel mixture needs to be adjusted to
compensate for new fuel distributor dynamics.

Anyone want to try?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> IMHO this procedure assumes too much. There is no way to know if 
> everything else is PERFECT except the fuel mixture adjustment and this 
> is not a very accurate way to set the mixture screw. The injector 
> could be dirty or just a little tight. You really have to put 
> the injector in a tester to clean it and check the opening and holding 
> pressures. A better way to set the mixture is with a dwell meter 
> reading the lambda system. Better yet leave the mixture adjustment 
> screw alone, turning it won't "fix" anything. BTW this is a VERY 
> sensitive adjustment, 1/8 of a turn can make a BIG change. Just make 
> sure there is a good sealing plug in the housing above the screw. A 
> plastic golf tee fits nice.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757

[moderator snip]



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 20:55:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Performance questions

If you're in an area that doesn't do tailpipe emissions testing, you can gut out your catalytic converter. It really won't do anything for performance, but it certainly gives the car a really neat, more masculine tone at idle. There's no added sound, or really change of sound to the interior... and gutting the cat is simple. Wanna chime in with exacting instructions Bill? :-)

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC

_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp

_____________________________________________________________
Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you_at_dml_yourchoice.com w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 03:39:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Volvo newsgroups

I think this one came from www.brickboard.com.

Find a lot of info via old fashioned web searches. Just include words
"volvo" or "prv" with your problem to weed out everyone else (or
"b28f" -- Volvo's designation of our block).

Is no substitute for DML of course, but sometimes gives fresh insight.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Scott Mueller"
<scott.a.mueller_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Bill Robertson,
> 
> Which Volvo Newsgroup do you use?
> 
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_c...] 
> Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:10 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Adjusting fuel mixture
> 
> 
> Fully agree that fuel mixture screw isn't going to turn itself. If yours
> hasn't been touched, look elsewhere for problem.
> 
> BUT
> 
> If you've touched screw and want to put it right again, there's a visual
> procedure known as "cracking" a fuel injector:
> 
> Snipped by Scott
> 
> Bill Robertson#5939 (acting more like a Swedish "brick" every day)




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 00:58:04 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Tellus Carriers



Found some information on the web about those infamous Tellus carriers used 
during DeLorean assembly.

http://www.agvp.com/cv%20automotive%20truck.htm

Best Wishes,
Mike P



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 13:29:01 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: B pillar trim

A great glue for all the trim pieces is Loctite 406. It's a CA 
(superglue) derivative but specific for plastics and rubber. It's evil 
stuff, I've fixed my fascia with it too. As you've just done your rear 
speakers I guess you've removed the interior quarter trim panels? To put 
those back on I did as you suggest - heated it and moulded it back 
round. My car had clips to hold the vinyl around the edge under the door 
seal, but it's held with the door seal anyway, so a quality double-sided 
tape worked fine in my case, and you stand a chance of removing it again 
unlike the 406!

Just for you (as you're in the UK) I bought the Loctite from this place.

http://www.norville.co.uk/cat/equip_item.asp?ID=702

Martin
#1458
#4426



Chris wrote:

>What glue should I use to stick the B pillar back around the door. 
>
>Whats the best way to glue, apply heat and get it in the right place? 
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris S
>UK
>
>
>  
>





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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 13:35:57 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Front lower control arm replacement

Do you think, as I do, that the flexibility of the original lower 
control arms allows for some absorbtion of sudden impacts (eg hitting a 
pothole) that a more rigid control arm might transmit strait to the 
chassis, possibly damaging it?

I'm probably wrong, but I do wonder why they weren't made stronger to 
start with

Martin
#1458
#4426 (front suspension in pieces, luckily everythng resurrectable with 
a coat of Hammerite!)

ksgrimsr wrote:

>As some of you may know, I suffered a catastrophic lower control arm 
>failure some time back (see message #31584).
>
>I decided to install the stainless front lower control arms from 
>Pierce Design, and thought I would share the experience with the 
>group.
>  
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 09:15:01 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: brakes need bleeding again?

I'm a bit curious why you would use this bleeding sequence. I've always had
the understanding Harold's was the way it should be done. Just to refresh my
memory I referred to several repair manuals including Chilton's, Haynes and
others. Regardless of the type of vehicle, the procedure in every one of
them was exactly what Harold recommended, starting with the wheel furthest
from the master cylinder and working up to the closest. I'm sure you have a
reason for doing it a different way and maybe you could enlighten us.

Bruce Benson

> I disagree with
> Harold's sequence, I start closest to the master cylinder >ie; front
> left, front right, rear left rear right unless you are reverse
> pressurizing the system but that takes special equipment.

> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 08:57:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DMC Open House and roadside repair kits

Looking forward to getting my car out in the next week
or so - is anyone on the list going to the DMC Open
House in May? I was undecided about going, but the BRP
deal swayed me in to going - 10% off everything for
the rest of the year, the $80 I'll save on the set of
wheels I want from them will pay for the registration
alone.

This will be the first serious roadtrip in my
DeLorean, though I'm pretty confident it will do fine.
What's everyone else carry in their "roadside repair
kit" - anything DeLorean-specifc? Who else is going? 

Sonny
#3669



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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:20:26 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Fwd: VS: [prvsixengine] delorean

Recent discussions on the PRV six engine list has many members describing 
their techniques & tuning info. After receiving permission from the PRV list 
to forward this information to the DML, I hope this helps the lead foots out 
there.

Regards,
Mike Pack
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:45:47 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Re: Recent article on 50,000 miles Delorean

Chris Parnham,

Is this the test-car that is in the "Ulster Folk and Transport Museum" in
N.Ireland?

Cheers,         IAN (N.I.P.P.L.E. in HongKong)
*************************************

----- Original Message -----
From: "willinot" <willinot_at_dml_ukonline.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 12:34 AM
Subject: [DML] Recent article on 50,000 miles Delorean
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I was buying a few things in the shop today and came across an brief
> one page artice on Delorean No 514 that went through a 50,000 mile
> endurance test driving round Northern Ireland Roads.  The driving
> was undertaken by the Ulster Automobile Club.  Report were generally
> favorable with the fastest run over a four hour shift being 300
> miles (this includes a coffee stop).
>
> The car was driven 24hours a day and stoped for refueling and
> service checks only.
>
> The test was started in Early 1981 and finished Sunday April 12.
>
> The magazine is called "Buy and Sell".  Its a special edition for
> the ciruit of Ireland Rally and cost £5.00.
>
> The publisher is B&S LTD, Lyndon Court, Queen Street, Belfast, BT1
> 6BY.  Sorry no phone number.
>
> Just thought you may be interested.
>
> e-mail me off list if anyone wants more info.
>
> Cheers
> 
> Paul.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 13:20:17 EDT
From: Senatorpack_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: VS: [prvsixengine] Tuning PRV engine...


Recent discussions on the PRV six engine list has many members describing 
their techniques & tuning info. After receiving permission from the PRV list 
to forward this information to the DML, I hope this helps the lead foots out 
there.

Regards,
Mike Pack
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------
Subj:    VS: [prvsixengine] Tuning PRV engine...
Date:   04/09/2003 5:17:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time
From:   Bengt.Ruusunen_at_dml_novogroup.com (Ruusunen Bengt)
Reply-to:   prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com ('prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com')

Hello,

Sure, it interests at least those who are interested in tuning or building
turbocharged PRVs. 

best regards
Benkku

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------

Hello Mike.
I would be pleased to help with making someone's dreams of making their PRV
Go wayyyy fast, and share how I have managed well in excess of 500 horses
with my three liter two valve engine.   I should not be credited with the
information which you have sent to me today though.
Would you folks like a run-down of how I did mine?
Regards, JohnLane.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

---------------------------------
Hello,

My name is Michael Pack, members of the PRV six engine list, Renault Alpine
list, and DeLorean Motor Car list. The information that you sent about
Tuning the PRV is fantastic. May I forward your email to the DeLorean list
(DML) ? I feel that this valuable information could benifit additional PRV
engine owners.

The moderators of the list feel that we should get your permission before we
post your tuning information to DeLorean members.

Best Wishes,
Mike
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------------------------------
Hello,

Without knowing what kind of PRV engine is in question, and targeted power
level, it is difficult to give pinpointed engine tuning advice. Of course
there is best practices to follow, here is my thoughts...


Probably 'routes' to increase an PRV engine output is;

For 'light cost effective' tuning (natural aspirated);

- increase induction system efficiency (headers, free flow mufflers, larger
exhaust pipes and maybe inlet manifold, throttle body etc.)
- install 'performance' camshafts or camshafts from more powerful PRV model
like Peugeot ZPJ. (check the current and Peugeot engine firing order
compatibility).
- tune fuel delivery and spark advance in dyno.

- or maybe complete engine swap, with necessary electronics.
- install Kemira metal catalysators.


Natural aspirated version (240 - 280 Hp and more).

- full porting (inlet and exhaust tracks maybe with larger valves, three
angle valve seat job etc).
- increase compression ratio.
- increase induction system efficiency (headers, inlet manifold, throttle
body if 'plenum chamber version' or 6 butterflies etc.).
- install camshafts which offer more lift and duration (for best
driveability, cam timings up to 300 degrees (from zero lift and around
260-270 degrees measured from 1.27 / 0.050" lift) is maximum to go).
- uprated clutch and pressure plate (up to 350 - 450 Nm).
- install programmable ECU system.
- install Kemira metal catalysators (for ultimate go for racing version).
- steel connecting rods and forged pistons may be needed.

Forced induction version ('el cheap'o').

- increase current turbochargers efficiency by porting exhaust turbine
casing and maybe installing little bit larger compressor wheel.
- increase induction system efficiency (free flow mufflers, larger exhaust
pipe).
- install Kemira metal catalysators (for ultimate go for racing version).
- maybe uprated clutch (torque transfer around 450-600 Nm depending on
engine strength and 'output').
- install programmable ECU system.
- stronger steel connecting rods and forged pistons may be needed.

Forced induction version (hp limited by mechanical strength, turbochargers
volumetric efficiency and boost pressure).

- port heads (if you are targeting really 'hairy' engine :).
- 'larger' turbochargers for example Garret GT series or Turbonetics T04
core with suitable (maybe S3, V1 or V2) compressor and turbine). - Or
increase current turbochargers efficiency by porting exhaust turbine casing
and maybe installing little bit larger compressor wheel.
- increase induction system efficiency (free flow mufflers, larger exhaust
pipe).
- steel 'billet' connecting rods.
- pistons (mahle (turbo), Viseco etc.).
- uprated clutch (torque transfer up to 1500 Nm depending on planned engine
'output').
- install programmable ECU system.
- install Kemira metal catalysators (for ultimate go for racing version).


On turbocharged PRV equipped cars increasing ouput is much cheaper than in
natural aspirated. Mechanical strength is limiting factor where 'cost'
jumps.

for example valve sizes in 2 valve version Peugeot engine (ZPJ) are quite
large in standard form, so there is no need to install larger valves, but
additional power can be extracted by 'careful porting' inlet and exhaust
tracks.

Peugeot ZPJ engine is good transplant 'for starters' natural aspirated
tuning. Renault Safrane Biturbo or Alpine turbo engine parts (albeit quite
rare) for forged induction tuning.

also one could look turbochargers from more common models like Saab or
Volvo. For performance wise adapting turbochargers (2) from 2.0 to 2.5 liter
4 cylinder engine is quite suitable for V6 a.ka 1.5 liter / 3 cylinder as
per one turbo.

For (both in natural aspirated or forced induction) 'serious tuning'
programmable ECU is way to go. For 'light' tuning remapping current ecu in
dyno.

As what comes to mechanical (fex. K-Jetronic) fuel systems one can keep it
if one has knowledge etc. to tune them or tuning company nearby which
'knows' mechanical systems.

But, all in all as they say, your mileage may wary :)

Best regards,

Benkku
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------------------------------
Dear all I need to tune my PRV engine befor its maiden outing. Could some
one please point in the right direction. Instruct me how to do it. I have
been told that the 3 Screws in the center of the Plenums can be tricky.

Please help
> ----------
> From:     [SMTP:Riccardo.Gubbioli_at_dml_uk.dealogic.com]
> Reply To:
> Sent:     25 February 2003 11:12
> To:   prvsixengine_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject:  Re: [prvsixengine] Looking for "PRV V6 Car of the Month" 
> -candidates!
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------
> Pertti,
>
> Closer to the summer, when my car is out of storage, I will like to 
> take some pictures of my Thema V6, a rare version of a PRV placed in 
> longitudinal position.
>
> Best regards,
> Riccardo
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------
> Attention everybody!
>
> There is a new "Car of the Month" section on the bottom of:
>
> http://members.fortunecity.com/perttim/therenault30file/
>
> where I intend to display a different PRV V6 car every month. If you 
> think that your car has potential to be Car of the Month, please e- 
> mail your photo/photos to: perttimakela_at_dml_douvrinprv.com
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Pertti M.
> prvsixengine Moderator
____________________________________________________________________________

Lotus Engineering - solutions beyond the conventional.
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 03:24:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Performance questions

If you live somewhere w/o emissions testing can gut catalytic
converter. Yields a lower & mellower tone (and greatly reduced
backpressure). Hollow shell seems to act like a resonating chamber.

Make sure idle speed isn't too high. PRV rather buzzy at speed.

"Accessory" key position same as car energized (as if were driving).
Some items like fuel pump need additional signal from actual rotating
engine, but idle speed motor not one of them. In factory configuration
motor runs whenever car energized and throttle closed microswitch
activated.

Starting/cranking key position sends other signals, such as cold start
valve.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> I would like to get more out of my DeLorean engine, or make it sound
> like it is not so small. Does anyone know any exhaust mods, any air
> intake/filter mods etc. to make this so? Also, is my "Idle/low speed
> motor (102502)" supposed to always be running, even when the key is
> just on accessories? Thank you all -




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