From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1459
Date: Saturday, April 12, 2003 4:49 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Roof Light Disassembly
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Brake Bleeding Sequence
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

3. Re: Shakey Stops, Strange Oil Pressure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: running rich??
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. "DeLorean World" Magazine?
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

6. Re: TOBY-TAB's
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

7. special car for sale
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

8. Re: Re: Front side marker lights not working
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

9. Re: Shakey Stops, Strange Oil Pressure
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: Re: Roof Light Disassembly
From: <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net>

11. RE: Re: Roof Light Disassembly
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

12. In search of photo
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

13. Re: Roof Light Disassembly
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: \"DeLorean World\" Magazine?
From: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk

15. Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

16. Lambda
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

17. Angle Drive
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 03:11:55 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Roof Light Disassembly

You're fortunate; most have long since been damaged by removal and 
will not stay in place. The positions are off, on, delay. Off is in 
the center position. It is best to remove the fuse or disconnect the 
battery before working on it. When you do remove it you will see 
that it has a plastic spring-lock assembly that latches over the 
hard fiber board liner. That spring latch is on one side only - the 
other is stationary. The problem is that one cannot usually tell 
which way the light has been installed. The only way I have been 
successful is to carefully try to move the entire light mechanism 
one direction or the other. The direction it begins to move the most 
is against the spring-lock side. I push that way sufficiently enough 
to drop down the mechanism and loosen it in the liner. Then, I 
carefully pull down and loosen the other side as I bring the entire 
assembly down and out. Wires are connected - or should be, so it 
takes some careful wiggles and movement to dislodge it. BTW, the 
interior light under the rear window is supposed to be an identical 
assembly. These light bulbs rarely loose connection or burn out but 
rather, the wiring, door switches, or some other component is the 
reason for the fault. Does the rear interior light work properly? 
They are on the same circuit.

Harold McElraft - 3354

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Gary Weaver II" <gw2tulsa_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Strange Question...
> 
> Just HOW do you take the three position interior lamp apart? I 
want to check
> the front lamp to see if the bulb is out and I'll be damned if I 
can see how
> to do it.. The last thing I want to do is tear this thing up...
> 
> -Gary




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 23:28:39 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: Brake Bleeding Sequence

Here's some interesting info from Mityvac's web site on bleeding your
brakes
using a vacuum pump.  It helped with some common problems I've had with
bleeding brakes.

BRAKE BLEEDING - WHICH WHEEL FIRST?

Q: What is the proper sequence in which to bleed my brakes when using
the
Mityvac(r) pump for vacuum brake bleeding?

A: When using the vacuum bleeding method to bleed brake systems on
vehicles
which are rear wheel drive the sequence should start with the wheel
closest
to the master cylinder and end with the wheel which is farthest from the
master cylinder. Example: LF wheel, RF wheel, LR wheel, RR wheel [This
is
the opposite of normal "pump & release" bleeding]

(However, when vacuum bleeding brake systems on vehicles which are front
wheel drive the sequence will change. These systems use a diagonal
configuration for safety purposes. On this system the sequence should
start
with the wheel closest to the master cylinder as before, however the
next
wheel in the sequence will be diagonally aligned with that wheel.
Example:
LF wheel, RR wheel, RF wheel, LR wheel.)

Q: When I try to bleed my brake system using the Mityvac(r) pump I am
getting air bubbles in the line connected to the bleeder screw on the
wheel
cylinder and little or no fluid is being collected in the reservoir jar.
I
have tried several times to bleed my brakes without success. What is the
cause of this problem?

A: Usually this condition is caused by a small amount of air being
pulled
between the threads of the bleeder screw and the body of the wheel
cylinder
or caliper resulting in the appearance of several small bubbles in the
line
connected to the bleeder screw. This can be corrected quickly and
easily.
Before you begin to bleed the brake system we suggest that the bleeder
screws be removed at all four wheels. With the bleeder screws removed
assure
all are clean and the passages of the bleeder screws are free of
corrosion
or debris. (A small paper clip will work well.) Next, be sure that all
brake
fluid, penatrating oil, and or grease is removed from the bleeder screw.
(Brake cleaning solvent does an excellent job.) Apply a 2 to 3 inch
piece of
Teflon(r) tape to the threaded area of the bleeder screw only. Wrap the
tape
in the opposite direction of the rotation of the threads. This will
prevent
any sepage of air from around the threads. Install each bleeder screw
back
into the corresponding caliper or wheel cylinder and lightly seat the
bleeder screw. Now you are ready to begin bleeding the brake system!
This
may seem like quite a bit of work in the beginning, but, once you get
started it should only take minutes to complete. In fact, the procedure
outlined above is an important step when bleeding brake systems
regardless
of the method used. It is critical to be sure that each component in the
brake system is in proper working order to assure a long lasting repair.
Remember, the brake system is the most important system in your vehicle.
If
the brake system fails to perform correctly, the results could be
disastrous.  [Also, this makes it a heck of a lot easier to release the
screws -- no more snapped, rusted bleeders!]

-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 03:42:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Shakey Stops, Strange Oil Pressure

The way the oil pressure gauge is working is "normal" for the factory
unit. There is a better replacement from Marty Mair. 
 As for the shaky idle, it could be anything from needing a tune-up to
dirty injectors to a vacuum leak. Probably all of the above. You might
also have an exhaust leak, it shouldn't sound like a Harley.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Having a bit of trouble with my D's engine
> performance.  She runs really ragged, vibrates back
> and forth when idling (sounds more like a Harley than
> usual).  My oil pressure meter reads half way until I
> get the RPM's up past 2500.  The oil pressure gauge
> shoots back up to the top and the car is fine then. 
> Any ideas of what this could be?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Sean Mulligan
>  vin #10054.
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
> http://tax.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 03:49:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: running rich??

You could just leave them alone, it sounds like they are closed all
the way! As for running rich to cure you might need a complete tune-up
and clean the fuel injectors. Start by making sure you don't have any
vacuum leaks and the control pressure regulater is getting electric
and the vacuum hoses to it are hooked up right. Also make sure there
is a plug in the opening over the mixture screw or you have a large
vacuum leak. You don't use the brass screws except for setting the
mixture screw which if you don't touch should be OK. If it bothers you
they can be drilled out and replaced.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Gents,
> 
> I'm also running very rich so I've been following this conversation 
> intently. 
> 
> First question:  The three brass set screws on the intake near 
> the "W" pipe. Two are for the cylinder banks and are supposed to be 
> fully shut. That much I know. Is the 3rd one the mixture screw? Are 
> all 3 supposed to be fully shut? If not, how can I best determine the 
> proper position of that 3rd mystery screw? I don't have sophisticated 
> test equipment.
> 
> Second question:  The yahoo owner before me, cranked them down so 
> tightly, that when I checked them, the heads snapped off all 3 of 
> them with almost no effort. I presume that an easy-out or similar 
> extraction tool will remove them....right guys??
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich
> #5335
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "honda250r1989" <sky250r_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> > I have an 83' dmc w/ 19k miles.
> > I tried to start it this spring and it would not fire.
> > After replacing the coil and cleaning some connections, it fired up.
> > But now it runs like the fuel line goes strait to the 
> intake,extremly 
> > rich with large amount of white/ brownish smoke rolling out the 
> > exhaust, with a clear and black gas smelling liquid leaking out the 
> > exhaust. 
> > I got it to start a few times like this and it runs smooth at above 
> > 3000 rpm or so, but the lower the rpm the worse it runs, needless 
> to 
> > say it won't come near an idle.
> > I'm gussing this problem has some thing to do with the fuel pres. 
> > reg. but I am hoping to hear from some one that knows more about 
> > deloreans than I do.
> > Thank Ryan




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:59:14 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: "DeLorean World" Magazine?

Someone must know!

I'm trying to get hold of an old issue of the "DeLorean World" magazine from
around 1998. A DeLorean owner in Thailand had sent an article but never
received a copy of it. Does anyone know:
1. How to get a copy of this magazine.
2. Which issue the article appeared in.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,         IAN
******************





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 00:19:13 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: TOBY-TAB's

In a message dated 4/10/2003 11:02:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com writes:


> I'm sure that current owners of TOBY-TAB's will attest 
> to the quality and importance of these parts.
> 
> 

If the engineering is as good as the attention to detail in production, 
they're a bargain!
-Wayne 
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 21:11:03 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: special car for sale

It is with great reluctance that I am announcing the posting of an ad in DMCNews for the sale of BLWNAWY, my supercharged Chevy-powered DeLorean.  This car is fast, reliable, pristine, and probably one of the most well known and successful engine transplants.  I've been enjoying it for 8 years now, but have finally had to admit that when its 3rd or 4th on my choice of sunny day drivers maybe its someone else's turn.  Its too nice of a car to just sit.  For price and information please check the ad (if I can ever get the site to come up so I can place it) and contact me directly.  There are photos on my website if you haven't seen it.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Front side marker lights not working

I've had a front marker rust out so badly that i had to get a new bulb
holder from a parts car. Does anyone know a cross-reference for this piece
that can be spliced into the front wiring harness?

-Christian


On Fri, 11 Apr 2003, Harold McElraft wrote:

> Each side of the running/park lights is on a different fused
> circuit. So, if just the front amber lights do not work it is
> probably the bulb or, in a lot of cases, water generally gets into
> the bulb area and rust causes a loss of connection. The bulbs are
> 1816, 4 watt bulbs. During replacement, use some bulb grease to
> protect the connection. You can get it at NAPA, etc. It is good to
> use on all bulbs when you service them. Be careful to tighten the
> amber housing down lightly when you put it back on. Age causes them
> to break easily if the screws are tightened too much.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...>
> wrote:
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I just replaced my headlight switch (LMS) and it works, however
> the
> > amber marker lights on the fenders don't work now (they worked
> > before) either with or without the headlights on.  All other
> lights
> > work just fine.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 05:34:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Shakey Stops, Strange Oil Pressure

Vacuum leak? Classic symptom is erratic idle. Engine will almost die,
catch itself (no more vacuum) and rev back up, then repeat. If this is
what yours is doing, don't know if Harley owners would appreciate
comparison...

You don't need any vacuum fittings at idle so is easy diagnosis to cap
them off (don't forget takeoff under upper air assembly). Could also
be cold start tube (accessible between #1 and #2 intakes), throttle
plate assembly/U pipes, or manifold itself. Use can of spray carb
cleaner with straw to pinpoint. Check idle speed motor takeoff (very
inaccessible between distributor and #4 intake) and connection to cold
start tube. Fuel distributor connection to upper air assembly is
another unlikely source.

Don't forget vacuum runs to front of car for power brakes and A/C
ductwork -- additional sources of leaks. Are powered by big takeoff on
passenger intake rail so you can isolate quickly there.

Oil pressure should stay up as soon as RPM's stop fluctuating, well
below 2500. 

Buy an assorted pack of vacuum caps (up to 3/8") and some carb cleaner
(don't mis-spray on anything painted) and let us know what you find...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> 
> Having a bit of trouble with my D's engine
> performance.  She runs really ragged, vibrates back
> and forth when idling (sounds more like a Harley than
> usual).  My oil pressure meter reads half way until I
> get the RPM's up past 2500.  The oil pressure gauge
> shoots back up to the top and the car is fine then. 
> Any ideas of what this could be?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Sean Mulligan
>  vin #10054.
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more
> http://tax.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 9:00:42 -0400
From: <gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Roof Light Disassembly

The back light works fine. My plan was to outright switch them out since I have no need for the rear light...

Thanks for the info on removal. I figured it was something like that...

-Gary

> 
> From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
> Date: 2003/04/10 Thu PM 11:11:55 EDT
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Roof Light Disassembly
> 
> You're fortunate; most have long since been damaged by removal and 
> will not stay in place. The positions are off, on, delay. Off is in 
> the center position. It is best to remove the fuse or disconnect the 
> battery before working on it. When you do remove it you will see 
> that it has a plastic spring-lock assembly that latches over the 
> hard fiber board liner. That spring latch is on one side only - the 
> other is stationary. The problem is that one cannot usually tell 
> which way the light has been installed. The only way I have been 
> successful is to carefully try to move the entire light mechanism 
> one direction or the other. The direction it begins to move the most 
> is against the spring-lock side. I push that way sufficiently enough 
> to drop down the mechanism and loosen it in the liner. Then, I 
> carefully pull down and loosen the other side as I bring the entire 
> assembly down and out. Wires are connected - or should be, so it 
> takes some careful wiggles and movement to dislodge it. BTW, the 
> interior light under the rear window is supposed to be an identical 
> assembly. These light bulbs rarely loose connection or burn out but 
> rather, the wiring, door switches, or some other component is the 
> reason for the fault. Does the rear interior light work properly? 
> They are on the same circuit.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354

[moderator snip]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 15:52:01 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: RE: Re: Roof Light Disassembly

Can someone explain which colored wires go where, for the light switch to 
function properly?

Thanks
Willie Mack
Vin 5043

>===== Original Message From gw2tulsa_at_dml_cox.net =====
>The back light works fine. My plan was to outright switch them out since I 
have no need for the rear light...
>
>Thanks for the info on removal. I figured it was something like that...
>
>-Gary
>

[moderator snip]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:26:06 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: In search of photo

Hello List - In the dim recesses of my mind, I recall seeing a photo 
on the DML of a DeLorean that had lost control at highway speeds when 
one of the trailing arm bolts broke.  If memory serves, the damage to 
the car was relatively severe.  However, I have been unable to locate 
the photo, or one similar to it.  Does anybody out there remember this 
photo?  If so, could you guide me to where it is?  Thank you for your 
help.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1
tobyp(at)katewwdb.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:39:52 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Roof Light Disassembly

There are three wires. PW (purple/white) P (purple) and a B (Black). 
The best way to figure it out is to look on page 112 of thr 
Technical Information Manual. PW and B provide a ground. P is 
connected to one side of the bulb and the switch rocks between the B 
which is "on" and the PW which is a "delayed" grounding circuit. P 
is "hot at all times" through fuse 12.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> Can someone explain which colored wires go where, for the light 
switch to 
> function properly?
> 
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
> Vin 5043
> 
> >===== Original Message From gw2tulsa_at_dml_c... =====
> >The back light works fine. My plan was to outright switch them 
out since I 
> have no need for the rear light...
> >
> >Thanks for the info on removal. I figured it was something like 
that...
> >
> >-Gary
> >
> 
> [moderator snip]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:44:34 +0000
From: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk
Subject: Re: \"DeLorean World\" Magazine?

Iam I have all the back issues. Can you give me more details?

Martin

> Someone must know!
> 
> I'm trying to get hold of an old issue of the "DeLorean World" magazine from
> around 1998. A DeLorean owner in Thailand had sent an article but never
> received a copy of it. Does anyone know:
> 1. How to get a copy of this magazine.
> 2. Which issue the article appeared in.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> Regards,         IAN
> ******************



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 00:31:26 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

Once again, I have failed my annual smog test! 935 HCppm _at_dml_ idle, and 1135 
_at_dml_ 2500 RPMs. Last year, I had to go thru this same fiasco, and performed yet 
ANOTHER 30K mile servicing. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, balast 
resistor, and CO adjustment (plus a new Control Pressure Regulator from 
DMCH 2 months before). After that, the output was 11 ppm on the 
hydrocarbons. Now, a year later, I'm right back where I started!!!!! Other than 
regular oil changes & about 12K more miles on the clock, nothing, I repeat 
nothing has been done to the engine. So what gives. Yes, I know I need to 
pull a spark plug to check for fowling, but I am really sick and tired of having to 
tune the motor annually just to get it to pass. That an a line of incompetent 
mechanics before me scrwed up, and inserted 3 of the plugs in crooked! This I 
discovered the first time I did the servicing myself.

So the question is what can I do to get my car to pass emissions, and quick? 
Will a small CO adjustment take care of things?, and what about those 
gasoline additives that guarantee you to pass emissions testing? I know that 
there is no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle, but I am indeed curious as to 
just what in the hell do these chemicals do? I'm not trying to take the cheap 
way out of things here. It's just that I am exhausted on having to keep shelling 
out so much money every year.

Any help, or at least ideas would be greatly appriciated!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 19:48:49 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Lambda

How do you reset the Lambda counter?

Mark
6683





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 20:02:37 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Angle Drive

How do you lubricate the Angle Drive? I believe i have the improved PJ grady unit but i
dont see anywhere to grease it up. On the bottom i see a screw and thats it.

Mark
6683




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/