From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1460
Date: Sunday, April 13, 2003 5:19 AM

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There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "Scott Mueller" <>

2. Re: Lambda
From: <>

3. Re: In search of photo
From: <>

4. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

5. Re: Lambda
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

6. Re: Angle Drive
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

7. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "content22207" <>

8. Re: Delorean in new upcoming feature film
From: "John Elgersma" <>

9. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "John Elgersma" <>

10. Re: Gas Tank Cleaning/Flushing

11. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "twinenginedmc12" <>

12. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: Bob Brandys <>

13. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

14. Joe Paces BTTF Car
From: "Harold McElraft" <>

15. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "Stragand, Dave" <>

16. Trailing Arm Bolt Question (was: In search of photo)
From: "dmcorlando2003" <>

17. Re: My MCD Still leaking water

18. Update. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

19. Das / Guage Bulbs
From: "drdhdmd" <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 21:25:06 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <>
Subject: RE: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

[MODERATOR NOTE: The tricks suggested here will not actually repair the damage to your car, and might make it worse.  Obviously you'd be better off in the long run if you actually got the car to run right.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderating team.]

A couple of old tricks you can try.

1-While engine is running, use a spray bottle and mist water into the
intake.  You will have to rev the engine to keep it running.  The urban
legend is that you are steam cleaning the combustion chambers.

2-With only a few gallons of gas in the tank, preferably gas from a high
volume station, add a good amount of gasoline drying product, alcohol based.
Alcohol will "absorb" any water in the tank.  The extra alcohol will alter
the tail pipe emissions.  I had an old V6 Capri that burned about a quart of
oil every 100 miles.  This car was ready to die.  By juicing the gas tank
with lots of Alcohol drying agents the car passed California emission
testing with flying colors.

Good luck.

Try at your own risk.

Your exhaust will bring tears to your eyes with all of that alcohol.  Also,
a bottle of Chevron Techron will do wonders.

After you pass the test, run lots of fresh gasoline through the car so that
you do not destroy the rubber parts in your gas tank.

Your mileage will vary.

Scott Mueller

-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [] 
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: [DML] Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

Once again, I have failed my annual smog test! 935 HCppm _at_dml_ idle, and 1135 
_at_dml_ 2500 RPMs. Last year, I had to go thru this same fiasco, and performed yet

ANOTHER 30K mile servicing. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, balast 
resistor, and CO adjustment (plus a new Control Pressure Regulator from 
DMCH 2 months before). After that, the output was 11 ppm on the 
hydrocarbons. Now, a year later, I'm right back where I started!!!!! Other
regular oil changes & about 12K more miles on the clock, nothing, I repeat 
nothing has been done to the engine. So what gives. Yes, I know I need to 
pull a spark plug to check for fowling, but I am really sick and tired of
having to 
tune the motor annually just to get it to pass. That an a line of
mechanics before me scrwed up, and inserted 3 of the plugs in crooked! This
discovered the first time I did the servicing myself.

So the question is what can I do to get my car to pass emissions, and quick?

Will a small CO adjustment take care of things?, and what about those 
gasoline additives that guarantee you to pass emissions testing? I know that

there is no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle, but I am indeed curious as
just what in the hell do these chemicals do? I'm not trying to take the
way out of things here. It's just that I am exhausted on having to keep
out so much money every year.

Any help, or at least ideas would be greatly appriciated!

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 22:44:20 -0400
From: <>
Subject: Re: Lambda

I just replaced my O2 sensor this afternoon, I was going to ask the same thing...

FYI, there is nothing more fun then trying to undo a thing that's had 20 years to rust in place. I simply can't wait to start on the Coolant Hoses :)

-Gary Weaver II

> From: id <>
> Date: 2003/04/11 Fri PM 08:48:49 EDT
> To:
> Subject: [DML] Lambda
> How do you reset the Lambda counter?
> Mark
> 6683


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 22:51:48 -0400
From: <>
Subject: Re: In search of photo

Here you go... I ache just seeing them again...


> From: "Toby Peterson" <>
> Date: 2003/04/11 Fri PM 05:26:06 EDT
> To:
> Subject: [DML] In search of photo
> Hello List - In the dim recesses of my mind, I recall seeing a photo 
> on the DML of a DeLorean that had lost control at highway speeds when 
> one of the trailing arm bolts broke.  If memory serves, the damage to 
> the car was relatively severe.  However, I have been unable to locate 
> the photo, or one similar to it.  Does anybody out there remember this 
> photo?  If so, could you guide me to where it is?  Thank you for your 
> help.
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
> Winged1
> tobyp(at)


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 03:10:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

It doesn't take much to fail an emissins inspection. One dirty
injector can do it. Or a couple of vacuum leaks. If you think the
ignition system is still in good shape I would guess you should pull
the fuel injetors and get them cleaned. Replacing the air filter also
helps. Don't think this can be fixed by twiddleing a screw, it's not
that simple.
David T

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 03:12:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Lambda

Get a paper clip, bend it into a large "U" with the ends about 3/4
inch apart, stick it into the screw on the side and turn until it
reads zeros.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> How do you reset the Lambda counter?
> Mark
> 6683


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 03:23:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Angle Drive

You remove the screw and inject heavy oil or a light grease. Not too
much and not with much pressure. It is easier if you loosen the drive
and flip it so the screw is on top. Put the screw back in and return
to origional position when done. As long as you are under the car lube
any other grease fittings that you can find. On some cars there are
fittings on the ball joints and the tie rod ends. Squirt some oil on
the steering universal and some silicone spray on the spring perches
and the steering bushing and sway bar bushings. Inspect the exhaust
system and C/V boots (4). Check the pads on the disc brakes and the
fluid level in the transmission (if manual) and final drive (if
automatic). Check the area under the master cylinder for signs of
wetness or epoxy coming loose which means it is leaking. Look at the
fuel accumulator return hose for cracking and all of the cooling
system hoses for swelling or leaks. Look the engine and
transmission-final drive over for external oil leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> How do you lubricate the Angle Drive? I believe i have the improved
PJ grady unit but i
> dont see anywhere to grease it up. On the bottom i see a screw and
thats it.
> Mark
> 6683


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 04:34:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

Are you SURE everything's cool with your engine? Even without a Lamda
system my vehicle came with a current PA emissions sticker. Check your
tailpipes for soot. If it's there, you've got dirty combustion. On the
ignition side:

1) Advance timing for longer burn in the cylinder. This is what
domestic manufacturers did throughout '70s to please government (my
'77 Lincoln is stickered 17 degrees BTC, '78 is 20 degrees). Cuts down
on HP so you'll want to move back afterwards.

2) Buy a high voltage coil. This one's permanent -- once you fire
40,000 volts you'll never go back to 18,000. Best $30.00 you can spend.

3) In conjunction w/ 2), increase plug gap to spread more fire
throughout cylinder. My D is gapped .36 to .40, can't remember
exactly. Rather than high resistance plugs, I prefer low resistance
coupled to a hot coil (am burning 6 ohm Delcos).

4) Switch to manual idle circuit and slow RPM's as much as possible. 

On the fuel side, make sure neither vacuum hose to control pressure
regulator is sucking from warm engine (especially the line with delay
valve). Am novice on Lamda system (never had one), but perhaps you
could be first to try removing from a factory block (see message
#32091). Obviously you don't need Lamda in Pennsylvania. Is always the
controversial fuel mixture screw...

Do testers know car is NOT dual exhaust? (Do they have lower
tolerances for each pipe of a dually?)

Go ahead and pull a plug or two. C'mon, it only takes a second.
Something might actually be wrong in there (oil -- horrors!).

Bill Robertson

[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 04:38:25 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <>
Subject: Re: Delorean in new upcoming feature film

I got emailed with the question if the Delorean is going to be the 
main car in the movie. I do not know at this time.
Well, I offered them the car to be used as much as possible. I know 
that there is an actor's film script website that allows actors to 
purchase the script for each of the four main characters. Definitely 
inaccessible to the public!! I send them  an email to release some 
additional information but if this is all suppose to be kept a secret 
till it hits the silverscreen, I might only find out when I am 
invited to the set to view the car. Hopefully that will be soon. I 
can't wait!!! I heard of news that Richard Kind is suppose to be in 
the movie. That's all I know as mentioned in the " Star Spotter" 
newspaper column mentioned that he will be in the movie. Maybe he's 
the P.I., I do not know.
John E.


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 05:01:12 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!


I went through the same garbage like yourself and it is, pardon my 
french, bloody frustrating and not just a little. I even had a few 
bad words to say to the car itself, like "Wish I never bought ya!", 
but that lasted only minutes. I regrouped my thoughts and ran the car 
very hot for an hour driving to another inspection station. It 
passed! I live in BC, Canada and I have read front page articles 
about the huge surplus that is racked in from this pollution control. 
Here, not all parts of BC require it, just the metropolitan areas 
that are covered in smog. Our cost is $25 for each inspection. Now, 
after running hot and putting in some of that chemical, I believe it 
is just diesel fuel, and increasing the idle setting, my car passed 
just fine. That only lasted for one year as I discovered that 
collector cars do not require Air-Care inspections, so I slapped on 
collector plates and away with pollution control inspections. Please, 
do not get me wrong! The car still needs to run good according to 
specs but at least you can diagnose on your terms and spend the money 
gradually if there is a real problem.I leave this info with ya!! If 
you are just trying to get by, getting the car on the road, why not! 
Expensive repairs are sometimes a pain and we try inexpensive ways 
and for some of us that's fine. I have blamed it on their equipment 
but that really does not help you. Hope you get it Aircared soon!!!
John E.


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 01:17:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Cleaning/Flushing

Hello Mike,
       I had to do the same thing with my car but it had been sitting since 
1983.  Pick a day when you are really stoked to work on the car and want to 
do things right.  First remove the fuel, fuel pump/boot and fuel tank sender. 
Drop the fuel tank closing plate and pull the tank out, I had to use a pry 
bar to gently pry it out from the frame (jumping on it from the trunk works)
       Remove everything from the fuel tank and fill the tank with tons of 
spare change or hard rocks along with some type of degreaser (Biodegradable 
products work fine, for all the treehuggers out there) & warm water.  Go to a 
local power wash, swish the tank around for 5 minutes, scrub with a brush, 
and then blast it out with soap for a few minutes and see how it looks after 
rinsing several times.  I have washed 3 DMC tanks this way.  The fuel tanks 
look brand new inside every time.  If there are stubborn spots you can use a 
scotch brite pad, but rinse it out good.
      Continue removing the fuel filter, accumulator, and all rubber hoses 
from accumulator forward along with all tank components.  It is not that 
expensive to replace those parts and they should be replaced if they are the 
originals.  I ordered every single fuel system part from the accumulator 
forward (minus tank & steel lines) and it wasn't that expensive and now I can 
drive without worrying.  Use stainless steel hardware & an aluminum filter in 
the tank and you will be good for a long time.
       Some say you don't have to remove the tank to get it clean.  Wiping 
the tank out with rags is a bad idea if you tank is quite dirty like mine 
was.  If you took it all apart you can put it back together I hope.   I just 
drove 27 hrs and I'm about ready to pass out, I hope this made sense.  Good 
luck to you


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 11
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 11:38:20 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

--- In, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> 
> Once again, I have failed my annual smog test! 935 HCppm _at_dml_ idle, 
and 1135 
> _at_dml_ 2500 RPMs. 
> Any help, or at least ideas would be greatly appriciated!
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"

Hi Robert.

These points come to mind. Normally I only pass on hard data, but 
since you specifically asked for help, or at least ideas, here goes.

1. The car should be warmed up, so the catalytic convertor is up to 
temperature.  The warmup period is useful in purging the hydrocarbons 
in the charcoal canister, too.  The longer the car waits between 
getting it to the station and putting it in the test bed, the more 
impact the cooling of the catalytic converter will have.  There is 
data to support this.  I don't have it.

2. Changing the oil immediately before testing supposedly helps, by 
dissolving the free hydrocarbons.  I've heard this many times, but 
seen no data.

3. This is just my own speculation:  I should think that a gasoline 
with a higher percentage of MtBE, which, as an ether, contains 
oxygen, would cause more complete combustion of the hydrocarbons 
(this is, after all, what this additive is intended to do).  This 
being so, one could fill up the tank with premium, which tends to 
have more MtBE, unless you're in California.  This should reduce the 
hydrocarbon content of the exhaust.

Good luck.



Message: 12
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 08:43:55 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

I was involved in emission testing of cars for years.  .The was before 
it became mandatory for testing in big cities.   I opposed this testing 
because on a cost effective basis it was cheaper to pay people to use 
public transportation than to test everyones cars.

However, laws rarely make any sense scientifically.

In regard to your car, you don't say what the CO levels were.  Assuming 
you cat converter is in good shape this should have passed.  

Given you HC numbers it sure looks like an ignition problem.   Do you 
still use the original ignition coil?  If so, this may be the problem.   
Clearly, it has a higher rpm miss, similar to what has been shown in 
testing of cars on the dyno.  

A faulty coil (with some partially shorted windings) works but does not 
recharge properly at higher rpm.

Changing the coil to a high energy 40,000 volt Bosch type or similar 
will make your car run better than new.  

Also, additing alcohol (with its higher oxygen content) will cause the 
emission tests results to improve.  
This is the additive used to dissolve water during the winter time.

Lastly, try a different emission testing station if you can.  The 
calibration at each station, even though it is supposed to be the same, 

Removing the air cleaner filter may also help.  Just for the test.


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 15:50:39 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!


Your system is way out. Something is not working at all. We really 
need to know CO reading and the CO2 reading to better pin point 
fault but I am guessing that the O2 sensor is not working or the 
Lambda circuit is shut down; especially if you got descent spec 
readings 12,000 miles ago. The system is probably "rich" which the 
default condition for an O2 sensor failure. If the frequency valve 
is not working the lower chamber pressure in the fuel distributor 
has probably increased also causing a "rich" condition. Spark 
problems do not seem likely to me.

I suggest checking the lambda circuit first. That includes the RPM 
relay functions. The diagnostics can be rather tedious and you 
should have the DMC Technical Information Manual to guide you. Check 
the fuse, check all connections - disconnect, inspect and reconnect 
is a good idea to be sure everything is secure. Turn the key to run 
and listen for the buzz of the frequency valve. Start the car and 
listen for the buzz. Use a stethoscope if necessary, but it has to 
be buzzing. There is away to check the O2 sensor but if I were you I 
would just replace it.

If the system has proper function the engine should be constantly 
hunting the ideal fuel-air mixture. The classic fast hunt - I love 
that sound.

If you wish you can contact me off line and we can discuss further.

Harold McElraft - 3354


Message: 14
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 16:11:52 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <>
Subject: Joe Paces BTTF Car

Ken K was looking for info on Joe Pace. In case anyone is interested 
in the Joe Pace BTTF DeLorean, I posted a picture of his promotion 
material in Photos under Pace BTTF. He brought it to a DOA show in 
MO some time back in the mid 80's. It was a great looking setup. Joe 
claimed he used the car as an everyday driver to/from his body shop 
in Kansas City.

Harold McElraft - 3354


Message: 15
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 16:02:24 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <>
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

You say you replaced the "Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil,
balast resistor" last year and again this year?  Here's some advice --
don't just throw parts at the car hoping the problem will go away.  Most
of the parts you just mentioned will do very little if anything towards
improving the emissions.
You have to understand how the fuel system works, and what HC and CO are
in the inspection.  Before you replace a part, do the simple checks
outlined in the service manual to test its operation.
HC is unburned fuel, and is the primary indicator of how well the engine
is running.  Having high hydrocarbons means that somewhere in the
system, an excessive amount of fuel is not being burned.  This is
generally caused by one of two things -- a lack of a good spark, or an
excessive amount of fuel to one or more cylinders (or through the cold
start valve).
You can check the spark plugs one by one.  They should be light tan in
color.  If you have one that doesn't look the same as the others, that
is a good indicator.  If it's all black and sooty, that means that
cylinder is running rich.
You also should check the cold start injector.  Remove it from the mount
(but not the hose), put it in a glass jar, and jumper the fuel pump at
the RPM relay (purple/white to brown).  Does it dribble or leak fuel?
That is a problem.  No?  Check all of the injectors.
You need six test tubes.  Pull each injector out of it's mount, and put
a small test tube somewhere you can put the head of the injector in
while it's still hooked to it's hose.  After all six injectors are in
the test tubes, jumper the fuel pump.  Do any dribble?  That is a
problem if one or more do.  If not, remove the air cleaner and very
slowly push down the metering plate until the injectors open.  Does one
spray much earlier than the others?  That can be a problem.  If not,
press the metering plate down about a half inch until one of the test
tubes is about 1/2 full.  Stop, and unjumper the fuel pump.
Are all of the injectors spraying the same amount of fuel?  If one
sprays more than others, you have a problem.
You have to remember this is a balanced system.  If one injector leaks,
it is going to steal pressure away from the others.  You can turn down
the CO adjustment until the car begins to stall, and still have one
cylinder too rich, and thus high HC.
These things would be the first things to check.
VIN #05927

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 16
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 20:53:01 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <>
Subject: Trailing Arm Bolt Question (was: In search of photo)

[Subject altered and quote snipped by moderator.]

Ok guys, since I am new to the whole Delorean experience, these pics 
in the link really got me thining I should check my trailing arm 
bolts.  I only have one problem...I haven't a clue where they are to 
check them [Don't laugh too hard  =) ].  

I am waiting for my maunuals to arrive but I really think I should be 
checking the bolts out asap...just in case....

Vin# 2944


Message: 17
Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 18:24:18 EDT
Subject: Re: My MCD Still leaking water

One other thing to check is the hood stops.  I had one missing on the drivers 
side and every time I washed the car the floor would be wet.  Just something 
to check.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 18
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 01:02:38 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Update. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

Doesn't look like I'm going to get the garage space promised today, so 
checking the sparkplugs isn't going to be possible today. But, I have made 
what I hope is a bit of progress, even though this morning my car ran _at_dml_ it's 
absolute worst yet.

Buying NOS electrical parts for my D hasn't been my most rewarding 
experience. So, I replaced the NOS coil I got from DMCH with a 45,000 Volt 
Blaster Coil from MSD that I picked up _at_dml_ my local speed shop. I installed it, 
the engine had a litte hesitation starting, but turned over. It knocked a couple 
of times, and then smoothed out. The exhaust was rich, but after a couple of 
minutes, it had a nasty rotten egg smell that it never had before. I shut it down, 
cleaned up, and took it for a test drive. Pickup is now improved dramaticly 
from a dead stop. No so much speed wise, but the torque from the engine is 
now improved enough so that it doesn't "lug" hardly now. The flatness in my 
accelleration has also been dramaticly improved, ending at arounf 2500-3000 
RPM's. Accelleration has also improved. Though not scientific, I can now hit 
65mph about 500 feet quicker than I could before. And now I finally have 
power enough in 5th gear to accellerate up hills, and not need to downshift. I 
hit the interstate, and kicked it up to about 110 to blow the cobwebs out.

Now here is the interesting part. Yesterday durring testing, my exhaust had a 
smell of fuel in it while even up to temperature to trigger the cooling fans. After 
returning home, and smelling the exhaust at idle, it now smells slightly like 
burning charcoal. I am hoping that this is a good sign that it's burning off 
cabon deposits.

And for the bad news. I don't know exactly what the tapping of the exhaust 
manifolds sound like when the gaskets are rotten, but I've got a constant 
tapping from what sounds like cylinder #5. As I rev the motor, the tapping 
increased accordingly. And I can also hear an occasional knock there about 
every 3-4 seconds. But it seems to subside a bit more as I gun the engine up. 
So I'll try switching over to possibly a higher octane gas to try and quell that. 
MTBE gasoline is not available in Nevada, due to the fact that our gasoline is 
piped in from California. I might also try a bit of Chemtool as well to see if I can 
burn off some of the excess carbon. But I'm still worried about the sound.

Many thanks to everyone who has replied back to me both on, and off the list. 
Believe me, if there was a way that I could have easily avoided this smog test, 
then I would have gotten my exemption long ago. Unfortunetly, in Nevada, the 
state seems to be giving California a run for it's money. Exemption is only for 
vehicles 1967 & older (and that number never changes), and Classic Cars. In 
addition a car has to be 25 years old here to be a classic. To be a classic, you 
are restricted to 2,500 miles a year, and not only must you send in a signed 
statement every year with your renewal stating you haven't exceeded the 
milage, you also have to pass an initial smog check at the State Emissions 
Lab! The best part is this law only affects "urban zones" in two counties within 
the entire state. So people out over the hill in rual areas in the central part of 
the state are allowed to incenerate their trash, but curse me for high hydro-
carbons! I can't win. But enough of my ranting. I'm begining to sound like 
James Traficant on a red bull and twinkie binge.

As for the fuel system, that's all less than 3 years old, and brand new from 
pump to injector. For those that are also interested, here are the results of the 
CO from the test as well.

CO% .98_at_dml_2500, .65_at_dml_idle. CO2 13.30_at_dml_2500, 11.50_at_dml_idle. O2% 3.6_at_dml_2500, 
5.7_at_dml_idle. All of these passed the inspection, although the CO% was pretty 
close to the limit of 1.20% max. My Catalyitc Convertor is working it seems, 
but it's just that my engine isn't burning off all of it's fuel. I'll next test the cold 
start valve, and hopefully, that'll be ok. Although, I am having both hot, and 
cold starting problems now.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 19
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 02:19:54 -0000
From: "drdhdmd" <>
Subject: Das / Guage Bulbs

My oil pressure light stopped working and I was wondering if there 
are any tricks to changing it other than having to pull the 
binnacle.  Also what type of bulb is used?

Thanx again,



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