From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1461
Date: Monday, April 14, 2003 4:36 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question (was: In search of photo)
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

2. Re: Update Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Update. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Craig Warranty and Goodyear warranty
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

6. For Sale
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

7. Idle Speed Regulator Query
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>

8. Re: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. Re: special car for sale
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>

10. Rear View Mirror Pad
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 05:16:57 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question (was: In search of photo)

Michael - Good plan.  In regards to where these bolts are, I think 
that a great place to start would be the 'Tech Section' of this 
website.  Scroll down until you find the suspension area, and click 
on the links that mention the trailing arm bolts.  Basically, these 
bolts attach the rear suspension trailing arms to the frame of the 
car, and react many different loads.  You may have to remove the 
sheet metal dust shields to gain access to the area where they are 
installed.  Check out http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm .  The 
reason I am sending you there is so you can see what a great 
resource this website is.  Please let us know if you have any 
further questions.  Welcome to our little corner of the world.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> [Subject altered and quote snipped by moderator.]
> 
> Ok guys, since I am new to the whole Delorean experience, these 
pics in the link really got me thining I should check my trailing 
arm bolts.  I only have one problem...I haven't a clue where they 
are to check them [Don't laugh too hard  =) ].  
> 
> I am waiting for my maunuals to arrive but I really think I should 
> be checking the bolts out asap...just in case....
> 
> 
> Michael 
> Vin# 2944




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 05:42:33 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Update Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

Thought you'd like that coil. Don't forget to match it with some
decent spark plugs. And widen the gap to take full advantage of your
new juice. FWIW Bosch wires are actually pretty high quality (you
notice MSD recommended spiral wires).

Now, about cylinder #5 -- have you ever adjusted valves? (thank
goodness for hydraulic lifters!) Tech manual is wonderfully vauge, but
it does give feeler gauge measurements on page C:05:02. You'll need a
36mm socket to rotate the engine (muffler will have to come off for
access). Is time consuming more than difficult. eMail me direct if you
want me to walk you through it (brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net) Don't forget
to buy new valve cover gaskets before you start!

True carbon buildup doesn't burn off. It becomes part of the engine.
Glows red hot, reduces cylinder volume, and otherwise causes mischief.
Idea behind spaying water into engine is it will hit hot carbon
deposits and crack them free. Unfortunately I've also heard of it
cracking the pistons! You'll know your engine is hopelessly funked if
it diesels after ignition turned off or clatters even with proper
octane fuel (ignition timing can affect that one too). Otherwise, I
wouldn't lose sleep.

Lighter weight deposits will burn off (soot, oil, etc). Once you get
fuel mixture staightened out combustion alone should do it (don't
forget those new plugs). Can assist with carb or fuel injector cleaner
poured into intake if desired.

Not quite there yet, but you're on the way!

Bill Robertson
#5939






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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 06:07:45 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question

Are two big sheets of aluminum where rear wye spreads out. TAB's above
them. You may end up cutting the 6 mounting bolts (riv bolts?). Were
attached to fiberglass when new but seem to spin free with age. Plus
are carbon steel wonderfully prone to rust (how 'bout that "rust
proof" DeLorean!). I replaced with 1/4" stainess steel bolts and
fender washers. Car is small enough you can reach bolt head and nut by
yourself.

Bill Robertson
#5939 

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> [Subject altered and quote snipped by moderator.]
> 
> Ok guys, since I am new to the whole Delorean experience, these pics 
> in the link really got me thining I should check my trailing arm 
> bolts.  I only have one problem...I haven't a clue where they are to 
> check them [Don't laugh too hard  =) ].  
> 
> I am waiting for my maunuals to arrive but I really think I should be 
> checking the bolts out asap...just in case....
> 
> 
> Michael 
> Vin# 2944




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 14:56:19 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Update. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!

Robert

A PRV engine is a clean burning engine when tuned properly. You 
should fly through the emissions check. The readings you gave us 
indicate a malfunction of a component. Also, an exhaust leak before 
the O2 sensor will usually cause a high HC reading. Unless the 
exhaust leak is massive it will probably not be enough to fail you 
but make it hard to do an accurate CO adjustment. Also, vacuum leaks 
can screw up all the readings depending on where they are (The bank 
with the exhaust leak, etc).

Proper readings S/B CO .02 to .10, CO2 in the 15.0 area, HC 0 to 15

BTW the readings on my engine have been in this range for over 10 
years and I have touched nothing except change the fuel accumulator, 
fuel filter, and air filter. That is over 35,000 miles ago. No brag, 
just fact.

Since the car starts I would rule out spark for now. Make sure the 
Lambda system is working - the most obvious way to check it is to be 
sure the frequency valve is buzzing. I would suspect failure in the 
following order since you passed 12,000 miles ago - check fuse 7, 
replace the special Bosch relay for the frequency valve/lambda 
circuit (it is the only one like it in the DeLorean and it has to be 
that exact relay), the RPM relay, the O2 sensor, the frequency 
valve, or the cold start valve leaking. After all the correspondence 
to this point I am very suspicious of the Bosch relay or the RPM 
relay - Be sure fuse 7 is OK.

Harold McElraft - 3354





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 16:06:06 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Craig Warranty and Goodyear warranty

I doubt these are worth anything, but I figured I'd put it out there;

considering I have neither the original Gooyear tires or the 
original craig radio.
Does anyone want the warranty pamplets for these things?? I don't 
know... it might round out your original paperwork collection or 
something..

Email me directly if you'd like them.

thank you,
James L 4009




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 13:54:12 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: For Sale

    Hello All,  
              I thought I'd pass along a DeLorean I saw for sale in the Indiana Auto-Rv (www.autorv.com) 
paper. Heres What it says: 1981 Delorean, V6, AT, 41,000 mi, stored 15 years, needs work, sheet 
metal exc cond, project car. $5,500. Grover Hill OH, 813-787-8696 or 813-494-6078. 

I don't know anything about this car, I just saw the ad and am passing it along.

                                        Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 21:12:17 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Idle Speed Regulator Query

Is the idle speed regulator supposed to make noise even when the idle
speed microswitch is not depressed?  With my key in the run position,
the idle speed motor is running when the idle microswitch is
depressed, just like it should.  When I move the throttle linkage so
the idle microswitch is no longer depressed, the sound from the idle
speed regulator changes, but it is still doing something.  As far as I
can tell, my car is functioning properly, so I assume this is normal.
Am I right?

John Yeoman




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 23:27:25 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Trailing Arm Bolt Question

The original fastners were bonded into the floor in the battery 
compartment and the lockable compartment. The reason they didn't use 
bolts was the acrobatics to undo and do them up, plus the fact that the 
battery at least needs a flat floor to sit on...

Martin
#1458
#4426
and working on #2292 all weekend. Tired.

content22207 wrote:

>Are two big sheets of aluminum where rear wye spreads out. TAB's above
>them. You may end up cutting the 6 mounting bolts (riv bolts?). Were
>attached to fiberglass when new but seem to spin free with age. Plus
>are carbon steel wonderfully prone to rust (how 'bout that "rust
>proof" DeLorean!). I replaced with 1/4" stainess steel bolts and
>fender washers. Car is small enough you can reach bolt head and nut by
>yourself.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939 
>  
>





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 00:07:21 +0100
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris_at_dml_hawes74.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: special car for sale

Darryl,

Will you be taking BLWNAWY to the Houston openhouse event next month???

Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
To: "DMCNews" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 5:11 AM
Subject: [DML] special car for sale


> It is with great reluctance that I am announcing the posting of an ad in
DMCNews for the sale of BLWNAWY, my supercharged Chevy-powered DeLorean.
This car is fast, reliable, pristine, and probably one of the most well
known and successful engine transplants.  I've been enjoying it for 8 years
now, but have finally had to admit that when its 3rd or 4th on my choice of
sunny day drivers maybe its someone else's turn.  Its too nice of a car to
just sit.  For price and information please check the ad (if I can ever get
the site to come up so I can place it) and contact me directly.  There are
photos on my website if you haven't seen it.
>
> Darryl Tinnerstet
> Specialty Automotive
> McCleary, WA
> www.delorean-parts.com



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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 19:17:51 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Rear View Mirror Pad

I am getting ready to affix a new  mirror button to my new DMC windshield. The glass arrived with a small foam pad that warns that I should use it when I affix the new button. The rest of the rearward-looking world just sticks the thing directly to the glass with adhesive made for the purpose. Is there a dark secret about DMC glass we should know about? The pad is not self-adhesive and can't be used to actually stick the button on. Has anyone actually used one of these? I would appreciate someone shedding some light on the best way of affixing a mirror to the windshield.
Thanks,
Rustproof
Vin# 1559

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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