From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1464
Date: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 1:37 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Oil Pressure
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

2. Need Tire Recommendations
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

3. Wheel Repair.
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Critical Engine Failure
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: Performance mods
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. RE: Digest Number 1462 (Windshield mirror pad)
From: "Scott Gardner" <gardners14_at_dml_cox.net>

7. Re: Additional Info: Lamda system mandatory?
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com

8. Re: Critical Engine Failure
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: gas flap hood
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

10. Re: gas flap hood
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

11. Coolant system metallurgy
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Performance mods
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: gas flap hood
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

14. Re: Re: Lambda sensor removal...
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

15. RE: special car for sale
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

16. Re: Critical Engine Failure
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

17. Re: Wheel Repair.
From: "Marcel" <mbourgon_at_dml_elp.rr.com>

18. Re: Performance mods
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

19. (unknown)
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_lycos.com>

20. Re: Need Tire Recommendations
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Re: Additional Info: Lamda system mandatory?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Gas Flap.
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

23. Re: Coolant system metallurgy
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

24. Re: Need Tire Recommendations
From: "Christophe Vieira" <88mph_at_dml_delorean.com>

25. Re: interior question
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_lycos.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 23:59:04 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Oil Pressure

Having oil pressure is great- but after reading about the critical engine 
failure, is having a large amount bad? Warm, my engine idles with around 40 
lbs, and driving it is north of 80. The oil level is correct, as is 
everything else. 

John
4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 04:15:53 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Need Tire Recommendations

I'm preparing to replace my old original NCT tires.
I would like some recommendations for replacement tires.
I am hoping to find a type that I can put the same type & model on 
front and back.  When I looked at GoodYear I couldn't find this.
What do you all recommend?
Thanks
Dale Funk
#4984




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 04:17:34 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Wheel Repair.

I am hoping to restore the wheels on my Delorean.
Are they Aluminum?  It seems like something I should be able to do 
myself. I spoke with a guy and he said it would cost about $600.00 
for him to do whatever to refinish them.
Any knowledge or ideas on this subject?
Thanks
Dale Funk
#4984




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 00:28:45 EDT
From: AJL521_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Critical Engine Failure

High Oil Pressure is normal at startup, at least mine has always been that 
way.
 
As far as the leak goes, my first step would be to clean the block up, and 
try to see where the leak is coming from.  Also try a cooling system pressure 
test,  if the leak is as bad as it sounds the sound of the hissing air should 
help you pinpoint the leak.  I've never had the "pleasure" of doing a head 
gasket on my D, but judging by the overhead cam setup, it dosen't appear to 
be a fun job....but on the other hand, its a lot cheeper than an engine 
block.

Don't give up hope, Ive been there too, heck I had the motor mount bracket 
fall off the side of my engine block, (thank god I was able to find a welder 
who could fix it).

Good luck,
Andrew
4194



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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 04:44:35 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

The "hot" set-up now is to use an electric blower. It doesn't take
power fron the engine directly, no weird plumbing to get the exhaust
pipes to and from the turbine, less heat, no oiling problems, no turbo
lag, easy to control. The neon set started out using modified leaf
blowers, now there are some companies selling units made for this.
This might be the way to go and it is probably cheap. Of course to
realize the full potential intercoolers would help. Just remember the
"weakest link theory". If you strengthen something the next weakest
link will break like the transmission, wheel bearings, C/V joints,
clutch etc. On the subject of velocity of the fuel-air charge, on a
forced induction engine the velocity of the charge is less important
than the pressure and temperature so porting and polishing are of
limited value. What becomes VERY important is the timing of the
ignition and the camshaft and the compression ratio. A forced
induction engine is very prone to predetonation and overboost both of
which induce high combustion pressures which are death to the pistons.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Martin,  You make an excellent point.  This engine has tremendous
potential
> and sucessive variants have certainly proved this to be true.  If
there was
> someone providing a service sourcing and supporting European based
engine
> upgrades, I would be first in line.  My perspective is that I
already have
> the odd-fire DMV motor and see substancial gains without breaking
the bank
> or my drive train.  I don't think 130 HP is enough.  I suppose the
question
> is, how much more can I get for how much spent?  Has anyone else
attempted a
> ported, polished (induction as well as exhaust), turbocharged (single or
> twin), intercooled, water injected DMC/PRV yet?
> 
> Don E.
> #6543
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_d...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 3:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Performance mods
> 
> 
> > Pete Berveiler wrote:
> >
> > >I believe the 350-400 HP range is attainable with
> > >turbocharging or supercharging, but not with the DMCH
> > >mods.  It will require serious high-dollar performance
> > >mods (custom intake manifolds, exhaust capable of
> > >moving that much air, new concave pistons, larger air
> > >inlet system, full distributorless EMS and new more
> > >powerful ignition system, High-flow EFI system, and
> > >different catalytic converters to be street legal)
> > >that you can drop nitrous on as well to go above
> > >400HP.
> > >
> > >
> > It's really funny how people keep on writing things like this - not to
> > have a dig at what Peter's written - he's on the money. What it comes
> > down to is the odd-fire crank in the DeLorean engine is simply not
> > suitable for turbocharging, and that is only at the top of a very long
> > list of problems with turbocharging this engine.
> >
> > Why else would the Renault 25 Turbo have such a massively
re-engineered
> > engine? The Renault Alpine A610 produces in excess of 400hp reliably
> > from a 2.5l PRV-6 that mates to the exact same gearbox as the
DeLorean.
> > The engine is an enhanced and intercooled version of that in the R25
> > Turbo, which can be found in scrapyards all over europe.
> >
> > Why do people keep trying to reinvent the wheel with an enhanced
> > original DMC PRV when so many are available just begging to be dropped
> > in, have an exhaust made to fit, and bingo-splingo, a 400hp
capable PRV
> > in the back of your D?
> >
> > The DMCH engine is about as good as you'll get without spending
serious
> > money on rebuilding and reengineering a stock engine.
> >
> > Oh, and the 3.0l PRV used in cars like the Renault Espace and Citroen
> > Xantia up until only a few short years ago can be tuned (at some
> > expense) to 300-350hp. It will bolt right in.
> >
> > Martin
> > #1458
> > #4426
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 00:08:19 -0400
From: "Scott Gardner" <gardners14_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: RE: Digest Number 1462 (Windshield mirror pad)

Bobby,
	You're from Texas - you should know that summer hasn't
officially started until rear-view mirrors start falling off from the
heat!

Scott Gardner


-----Original Message-----
From: BDM [mailto:bmims1_at_dml_ut-texas.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 11:00 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Digest Number 1462



Do not affix the mirror to the windscreen without an expansion pad!  I
know
because when a "shade tree" replaced my windscreen several years ago he
merely glued the old mirror to the new glass.  Result?  It cracked of
course! The pad serves as an expansion joint allowing for hot and cold
expansion compensating for different media characteristics.  So just
install
the thing with the pad and you should be alright.  Good luck



Bobby Mims

Tyler, Texas












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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 00:24:56 EDT
From: dherv10_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Additional Info: Lamda system mandatory?

Bill, The 092 is a Grey market car distributor, meaning it was put on a car 
in Europe and not set up for US emissions. If you want I can dig deeper and 
find out exactly what car it was made for.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
 

<< Bosch ID tag on my fuel distributor reads: 438 100 092.
 
 Have no idea how that compares to a DeLo unit, but is obviously a
 Jetronic system of some ilk. FWIW *ALL* parts purchased from vendors
 have installed perfectly, including injector seals. I suspect R30
 isn't too far removed from a factory block.
 
 Bill Robertson
 #5939
  >>



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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 05:02:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Critical Engine Failure

The first thing to do is to try to see where the fluids are coming out
from. If you can determine that it will give you as better idea where
this will lead to. I wouldn't run the engine anymore. Fill the cooling
system with water and put a pressure tester on it. Pump it up and see
what is leaking. A compression test can also give you some info on the
health of the internals. It is probably cheaper to fix the engine then
replace unless there is a lot of internal damage and or a cracked
block which is rare. The most likely problem is a cracked head but if
fluids are "pouring" out it will be very evident once you pull the
heads. A blown gasket usually doesn't cause fluids to pour out. This
happened to me on a truck and what happened was the head of an exhaust
valve came off and the piston pushed it through the head causing
coolant and oil leaks. The hydrostatic lock of the coolant getting
into the other cylinders bent all of the push rods and connecting
rods. Since the block and the crank was alright the engine was
rebuildable. On the PRV the cylinders are liner sleeves like on a
truck so unless the block cracks badly it is rebuidable. Don't trust
the oil pressure gauge, put a mechanical one on if you want to really
see the pressure. Check the oil again to see if it is milky. If it is,
it means water is getting into it, not good. If it is not milky maybe
you just blew a coolant hose? Watch the oil level to see if it goes
down when the engine is running again but don't run the engine if
there is water in the oil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Richard Acuti <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> List,
> 
> Everyone here has been wonderful with advice and info. Don't fail me
now...
> 
> I bought #5335 undrivable, and have been repairing things as I find
them. I was idling it in my driveway 4 days ago when something seemed
to "give", and it acted as though it had a vacuum leak. I shut it down
and had to leave it for a few days. I ran it this evening, again it
acted that way, but with a sickening twist...green coolant mixed with
oil came spilling out on the ground once it warmed up.
> 
> It only has 22K on it, but it sat for years before I bought it. The
oil level was correct, I'd just checked it. The oil pressure does
climb pretty high when it was revved up. I've never "redlined" the
engine though.
> 
> Cracked block, or blown head gasket? You be the judge... I'm leaning
towards the gasket. 
> 
> After all I've done, to get hit with this...I nearly puked I was so
upset. Should I just toss the engine, or is it worth fixing? Would
high oil pressure blow the head gasket? What would make the oil
pressure too high? (No, I didn't put too much in)
> 
> Thanks guys
> 
> My wife's gonna kill me...
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event
at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you_at_dml_y... w/No
Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 06:56:11 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: gas flap hood

According to my documents, it looks like the #3200 was the last one 
with the gas access door in the hood.
John


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "dmcstyle1983" <sky250r_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> What was the last VIN# for the gas flap hood?
> Was the trunk any differant to accommodate for this hood?




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 02:17:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: gas flap hood

The Hood was changed to having no gas flap from VIN
3200 onwards.They continued to have the grooves until
the end of the 1981 series of cars.
The trunk was the same for all the cars as far as I
know.

Andrew
VIN 2883 (with flap and grooves)
Sydney,Aus.

--- dmcstyle1983 <sky250r_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:
> What was the last VIN# for the gas flap hood?
> Was the trunk any differant to accommodate for this
> hood?
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com



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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:58:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Coolant system metallurgy

Hi All

The steel pipe that feeds the back of the water pump runs right down the 
centre of the "V" of the engine, and is very prone to getting rusty and 
failing.

I am currently at a point in my project car that I have all the 
aluminium coolant pipes off the car, and also could get hold of one of 
those engine pipes.

I have a very good tubesmith locally who could make all of these from 
stainless steel, but I suddenly thought "hang on, are you supposed to 
mix ally and stainless?" I'm sure my dad always used to moan at my mum 
for leaving an ally saucepan soaking in the same washing up water as 
stainless cutlery because it causes pitting in the stainless. To this 
end, I'm wondering what happens to the insides of the stainless coolant 
bottles?

Can someone tell me if I'm waay off track and that it may well be worth 
getting my coolant pipes made from stainless? (does anyone else want a 
set? :-)

Martin
#1458
#4426




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:37:26 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

That's a supercharger. The head caused by the compression is only part 
of the story and why an intercooler is not as necssary on a 
supercharger. Because a turbo runs off the exhaust, the housing gets 
very hot which in turns has a great effect on the air being compressed.

Martin

Pete Berveiler wrote:

>I believe there are belt-drive turbochargers as well
>as exhaust drive.  Intercooler is key to performance,
>as heat generated in compression robs the power
>benefit of the compressed air.
>
>Am I wrong there?
>
>Pete
>
>  
>





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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 04:31:40 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Re: gas flap hood

They were phased out... kinda random-like. 
IE 1697 had a gas flap... but 1698 might not have... and the 1705 did 
again..
No exact end (BTW, those were just example vins... someone probably 
knows approx. when the gas flap went the way of the brontosaurus... I 
think pretty much the 82 model year was the approximate changing 
point).

And the trunk was no different. The flat hoods have a little piece of 
carpet where the hole would've been... and the weather seal still 
wraps around the gas filler, instead of going straight across like 
might have made more sense. But since the plastic underside of the 
hood and the shape of hump in the underbody where the weather seal 
sealed stayed the same throughout production.... eh...

I want a gas flap. And 1 million dollars. Feel free to donate either.
good night! it's way too late.

James L
04009




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:35:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Lambda sensor removal...

Harold McElraft wrote:

>The Lambda and Idle are two different systems. You cannot remove the 
>lambda and successfully get an accurate air-fuel ratio across the 
>RPM band without going to another injection setup. Bosch K-Jetronic 
>has to have the lambda to work. 
>
Sorry Harold - that's not true. There are loads of applications of the 
K-Jet system which don't use a lambda system. Just look at all the 
different types of CPR on John Hervey's page to get an idea of the 
number of different variations. My new engine's being built without 
lambda (using a Volvo metering head) and a Renault 30 distributor to 
compensate. You are right that the lambda and idlespeed systems are two 
seperate systems.

Martin




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 22:46:31 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: special car for sale

<<Subject: Re: special car for sale

Darryl,

Will you be taking BLWNAWY to the Houston openhouse event next month???>>

No, but I know how you can!!!
Darryl


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 13:03:46 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Critical Engine Failure

Richard, the head gaskets are not that hard to do! I say that with the 
experience of starting one job and ending up 5 weeks later (working 
weeekends only mind you) having replaced the right-hand head on a 
friend's car. You can see some pics at

www.delorean.co.uk/club_gallery.html (bottom right)

and

http://www.ourdelorean.co.uk/spring.php

As to whether the blocks' cracked: Where's the leak coming from?

Best Wishes

Martin

Richard Acuti wrote:

>List,
>
>Everyone here has been wonderful with advice and info. Don't fail me now...
>
>I bought #5335 undrivable, and have been repairing things as I find them. I was idling it in my driveway 4 days ago when something seemed to "give", and it acted as though it had a vacuum leak. I shut it down and had to leave it for a few days. I ran it this evening, again it acted that way, but with a sickening twist...green coolant mixed with oil came spilling out on the ground once it warmed up.
>
>It only has 22K on it, but it sat for years before I bought it. The oil level was correct, I'd just checked it. The oil pressure does climb pretty high when it was revved up. I've never "redlined" the engine though.
>
>Cracked block, or blown head gasket? You be the judge... I'm leaning towards the gasket. 
>
>After all I've done, to get hit with this...I nearly puked I was so upset. Should I just toss the engine, or is it worth fixing? Would high oil pressure blow the head gasket? What would make the oil pressure too high? (No, I didn't put too much in)
>
>Thanks guys
>
>My wife's gonna kill me...
>
>  
>





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 07:00:50 -0600
From: "Marcel" <mbourgon_at_dml_elp.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel Repair.

Good morning from El Paso, Tx.
I have had my car in Houston with D.M.C. for a while having it refurbished.
They offer a wheel exchange and refinish service that is cheaper than the
price you quoted.  If memory serves they are 150.00 apiece. Like the other
fellows have said in the past these are great guys to deal with
Marcel 81 dmc
----- Original Message -----
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 10:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Wheel Repair.


> I am hoping to restore the wheels on my Delorean.
> Are they Aluminum?  It seems like something I should be able to do
> myself. I spoke with a guy and he said it would cost about $600.00
> for him to do whatever to refinish them.
> Any knowledge or ideas on this subject?
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> #4984
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 08:17:59 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

>What it comes down to is the odd-fire crank in the >DeLorean engine is
simply not suitable for turbocharging, >and that is only at the top of a
very long
> list of problems with turbocharging this engine.
> > Martin
> > #1458
> > #4426

Remember the Buick Grand National engines were odd firing V-6's and some
have tuned them to well over 500HP.




 >My perspective is that I already have
> the odd-fire DMV motor and see substancial gains >without breaking the
bank
> or my drive train.    Has anyone else attempted a
> ported, polished (induction as well as exhaust), turbocharged (single or
> twin), intercooled, water injected DMC/PRV yet?
>
> Don E.
> #6543

An example of velocity is an unrestricted garden hose flowing water on a
wheel making it spin. Now put your finger across the end of the hose and
restrict some flow but increase the velocity. The wheel spins faster. The
faster spin on a turbo makes the forced induction quicker. The other side of
the coin is what goes in must come out. That's where the balancing act for
exhaust flow gets tricky. Ports opened up too much can defeat the efficiency
of  forced induction. Also, the wrong flow pattern through the combustion
chamber, even too much free flow, can actually reduce power. For example if the port is opened even a few thousands too much near the venturi area behind the valves the intake charge can ram into the back of the intake valve rather than flow around it. This obstucts the flow into the combustion chamber. It's all a balancing act and the best approach is learned through experience.The rule of thumb here is the smaller you can make induction system components without reducing horsepower output, the better your car will perform. What Martin pointed out regarding already designed heads and engines makes a lot of sense. The Renault engineers have done the work of finding the right combination. When you have one engine to experiment with in your own garage it gets pretty limited. You really don't know how much you could relieve the porting until you've gone too far.

Bruce Benson

 



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 13:56:09 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_lycos.com>
Subject: (unknown)

Richard,
I hesitate to write in here, since I am so new to the DeLorean, but 
I'll contribute what little I know.

Another possibility to consider. The engine is set up with cylinder 
liners, and a path to get antifreeze into the oil pan is via the seat 
between the liner and the block (upper crankcase). In my engine with 
54,000 miles, I had some serious corrosion on the #3 and #6 cylinder 
liner seats - down to less than a tenth of an inch for the paper 
gasket to do it's job once installed. I decided, with the advice on 
my machine shop, to install the cylinder liners with the appropriate 
RTV (I'll let you know how this turns out), instad of replacing the 
block.

>From what I can find, failure of the cylinder liner at the seat isn't 
real common on this engine, but I had a water cooled vanogan with the 
same cylinder liner set up, and an exhaust leak around the head 
gasket or via a crack on the base of any cylinder liner caused all 
kinds of problems with overpressurization in the hollow portion of 
the block (where the antifreeze is), including casuing the water 
bottle to explode. It will take the path of least resistance.

An easy test for this is available. You can get an additive to add to 
the antifreeze and if exhaust gasses are present, the antifreeze 
changes color. 

Since the engine is all aluminum, I'd tread real lightly. Sounds like 
you may need to disect anyway. Any good machine shop can check the 
true of the engine and suggest a course of action. 




For what it's worth,
Dan in Cocoa




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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 15:17:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Need Tire Recommendations

I'm running "matching" Goodyear Eagle GT II's (purchased July 2002) as
follows:
   Catalog #116-022-599 195/60 R 14
   Catalog #116-969-011 235/60 R 15 (white letter turned around)

Bill Robertson 
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I'm preparing to replace my old original NCT tires.
> I would like some recommendations for replacement tires.
> I am hoping to find a type that I can put the same type & model on 
> front and back.  When I looked at GoodYear I couldn't find this.
> What do you all recommend?
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> #4984




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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 14:51:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Additional Info: Lamda system mandatory?

See message #31068. Am fairly certain that, or something like it, is
source of my current block. According to original owner's son's best
friend (got all that? Actually spoke to the fellow by phone), was
purchased as a complete unit with fuel injection in place. Still begs
the question: why did mechanic transfer idle speed motor but not
microswitch?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Bill, The 092 is a Grey market car distributor, meaning it was put
on a car 
> in Europe and not set up for US emissions. If you want I can dig
deeper and 
> find out exactly what car it was made for.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
>  
> 
> << Bosch ID tag on my fuel distributor reads: 438 100 092.
>  
>  Have no idea how that compares to a DeLo unit, but is obviously a
>  Jetronic system of some ilk. FWIW *ALL* parts purchased from vendors
>  have installed perfectly, including injector seals. I suspect R30
>  isn't too far removed from a factory block.
>  
>  Bill Robertson
>  #5939
>   >>




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:34:08 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Gas Flap.

James,

NOS gas flaps are available.  If you are good with sheet metal, you can 
retrofit a flap into your hood.  That's what I did with my car.

BOB




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 12:36:50 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Coolant system metallurgy

Martin,

IF you are going to rebend new tubes, I would suggest reengineering them 
so that there aren't so many hose connections.  I eliminated 4 hoses on 
my car with new tubes.

BOB




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 15:36:27 -0000
From: "Christophe Vieira" <88mph_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Need Tire Recommendations

Hello,

Personally, I put on my D 4 Good Year Eagle F1 GSD2 (195/60R14 and 
225/60R15, the difference is insignificant) because I could not 
obtain those which I would have liked, 4 Michelin XHGT4.
These tires are only available to the United States (incredible for a 
French company) and I think they are one of the best choice for the 
DeLorean.
You can obtain them with www.tirerack.com for $410 + shipping.

I Hope this helps you,

Chris.
#04271 from Luxembourg.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I'm preparing to replace my old original NCT tires.
> I would like some recommendations for replacement tires.
> I am hoping to find a type that I can put the same type & model on 
> front and back.  When I looked at GoodYear I couldn't find this.
> What do you all recommend?
> Thanks
> Dale Funk
> #4984




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 13:33:50 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_lycos.com>
Subject: Re: interior question

My VIN 3932 has Black except carpet and headliners. 

The headliners aren't stock but the carpet is.

Dan in Cocoa




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