From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1472
Date: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 8:43 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Speedometer
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Electrical problem
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

4. Re: Paint for louver (clarification)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

5. VIN history
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Horse Power and stereo
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Electrical problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. re: yet another performance question
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>

9. Re: Any ideas re: new wheels?
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: VIN history
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Horse Power and stereo
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

12. Re: Any ideas re: new wheels?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Oil Leak and Timing Pulley
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

14. Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. chromed wheels
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

16. Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley
From: "marciniak1963" <Admiral_mjm_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. New Delorean Body Kit
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>

18. Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

19. Re: Re: Electrical problem
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

20. Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

21. RE: Electrical problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

22. RE: chromed wheels
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>

23. Re: chromed wheels
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

24. Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

25. STILL running a little rich...??
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 05:07:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Speedometer

It sounds like you need to have the speedometer head removed from the
car, disassembled, cleaned, relubricated, and calibrated. Look in the
yellow pages for a shop that can recalibrate speedometers or go to the
biggest auto store in your area and ask where everyone sends them. You
could also try Hemmings Motor News under "services". You should be
able to remove and replace the speedo head but don't even think of
trying to clean and calibrate it yourself! You could also send it to
one of the Delorean venders, they would just send it on to a speedo
shop anyway though. While it is out you might want to consider getting
the higher speed decal and having the speedo recalibrated to that.
While you are at it lubricate the speedo cables (upper AND lower) and
the angle drive.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> What makes the speedometer jump when i first start driving my car?
It doesnt really jump
> it just reads at a higher speed till it warms up. after a while it
stops and goes away.
> Like at 2500 RPM i should be at 65 MPH but i am reading 75 MPH and
after driving for a
> while it will drop to 65 MPH, this seems to happen in the cold weather.
> 
> Mark
> 6683




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 05:32:36 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories

Does anyone know where to download these episodes?  I basically want 
any video regarding JZD or the Delorean.  Thanks,

Bryan




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:02:59 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Electrical problem

Weird one this morning.  Got to work and turned the key off and removed it.
The sound from the radio became scrambled (yes it should have gone off when
the key was turned off).  It reminded me of streaming a video clip on from
the web when the signal looses sync then the sound goes wacky.  It must be
an origional radio since it has DMC on the label.

Other symptoms include the fan (internal for AC) stayed on and internal dash
lights stayed on too.  I reinserted the key and turned it back to on.  The
radio sound and everything else started acting normal.  Turned the key off
and radio, dash lights, and fan stayed on.  Turned the key on and off again
and everything shut down.

So I figure it is either a relay somewhere or the ignition switch.  I have
done the relay upgrade and my lock module is removed (it failed and I
haven't replaced it yet since I am saving for a Lockazilla w/launcher).

Sorry if this is an old issue but I didn't know what to search for in the
archive.

Thanks,
Ed
10541




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 13:11:53 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Paint for louver (clarification)

Jim and List,

My recommendations to Dave about louver paint were based upon his
apparent desire to return the louver color to like new appearance.
The Krylon Semi-Flat Black "rattle can" does a pretty good job of
this in a very cost effective manner, for a stock flat black look.

However, if there is no desire to return the look to stock, then
the Armour All treatment is certainly ok (just to get them black)
as long as you do not mind dust attracting to the Armour All like
a magnet.  If you have a damaged louver (many need spine repairs)
the repaired sections will most likely need to be painted, so it
is a good time to repaint the whole louver after the repairs.

Since Jim's 3R car already has a gloss, jet black paint job, the
louver probably looks better with a gloss black look than with a
stock flat black look.  I personally think that a fresh paint job
on the louvers will make it easier to keep the louvers clean and
looking good, and for those who keep your cars covered often, you
do not need to worry about Armour All getting on the car cover.

On another personal preference note, I have seen several painted
Deloreans with "color coded" painted louvers that really make the
car look outstanding and different.  The complete white monochrome
Delorean at the DMCH 2001 Open House car show comes to mind.

To each their own.

Later,
Rich W. 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> 
wrote:
> What's with the louvre paint?
> 
> I thought my louvres were faded beyond repair.  They looked 
horrible.  I
> sprayed them down with armor all and let it sit (didn't wipe it off 
right
> away).  Now they look much better, almost like new (or maybe new?  I 
have
> never seen a new louvres...)
> 
> For a group that shirks painted Deloreans, it seems that the louvres 
get
> painted pretty fast.  
> 
> Jim
> 





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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 13:25:19 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: VIN history

Anyone ever own the Delorean with the VIN 10610? The last owners did 
a poor job of care and I want answers. Thanks




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 13:32:13 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Horse Power and stereo

( moderators note: both of these items have been discussed endlessly and the archives at the mailing list web site are full of these discussions. )

I have recently bought a delorean and I would like to know a few 
things. The first is that is there any ways to get some more horse 
power out of the car. I am on a tight budget and would like any help. 
The other is there anyone who has put in a CD player and it fits in 
well? I want to do some small upgrades but nothing to big to alter 
the car.




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 14:05:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical problem

If it starts to happen regularly then replace the ignition switch.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Weird one this morning.  Got to work and turned the key off and
removed it.
> The sound from the radio became scrambled (yes it should have gone
off when
> the key was turned off).  It reminded me of streaming a video clip
on from
> the web when the signal looses sync then the sound goes wacky.  It
must be
> an origional radio since it has DMC on the label.
> 
> Other symptoms include the fan (internal for AC) stayed on and
internal dash
> lights stayed on too.  I reinserted the key and turned it back to
on.  The
> radio sound and everything else started acting normal.  Turned the
key off
> and radio, dash lights, and fan stayed on.  Turned the key on and
off again
> and everything shut down.
> 
> So I figure it is either a relay somewhere or the ignition switch. 
I have
> done the relay upgrade and my lock module is removed (it failed and I
> haven't replaced it yet since I am saving for a Lockazilla w/launcher).
> 
> Sorry if this is an old issue but I didn't know what to search for
in the
> archive.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ed
> 10541




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 10:07:11 -0400
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand_at_dml_ketchum.com>
Subject: re: yet another performance question

Will a Lotus twin turbo v8 fit into the delorean engine bay?  Possibly,
but not in the right direction.  The Lotus engine is mounted in the
middle of the car, and the D engine is in the rear, so you would have to
turn it around to get it to fit.
 
If you want to install it the "correct" way, you will have to do severe
and extensive modifications to the body and frame to make a midship
engine compartment.
 
The Lotus transmission, if you used it, would have to be modified to run
the other direction.  If you used the D engine, you will need to make a
trans adapter (bell housing).
 
You are also going to have to do some massive modifications to get that
wiring harness and computer to work.  It's going to be an extensive and
expensive swap, but it's possible.
 
What may be more interesting... is can you get the whole running chassis
from the Lotus?  And mount the D body on it?
 
-Dave
VIN #05927
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 10:12:35 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Any ideas re: new wheels?

In a message dated 4/21/03 10:57:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
samcard_at_dml_yeayea.com writes:

> I bought my Delorean new in 83. I recently had it restored to factory 
> fresh...it was in great shape going in and looks excellent now. 
> Problem is that I didn't redo wheels and they are shedding paint 
> chips and need redone which I understand is expensive. And I am 
> wondering if some sweet new chrome or aluminium wheels might look 
> better. Maybe even those crazy ones that keep spinning at stops. Any 
> suggestions will be welcomes and appreciated.


In my opinion (and it seems most DML'ers AND non-D owners i meet at shows), 
the factory wheels are really nice and match the car well.  pretty much every 
person i've met at a show who started talking about wheels have said that the 
D's factory wheels are pretty darn good for factory.....  even if you do try 
to get new wheels, it will take time getting spacers and other such things 
custom-made because of the wheels' odd geometry. i would stick with the 
original style myself.

i would personally stay away from any type of powdercoating or painting of 
the wheels.  in my experience, commercial wheel cleaners will eat up the 
clear coat, allowing the chrome flake in the powdercoat to oxidize.  gassing 
out is a problem too.

the best solution, in my opinion, it to swap your wheels with DMC houston for 
some of their machined or polished finish wheels.  they look killer.

andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 14:16:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: VIN history

Try to find out which Delorean vender did work on the car, most keep
records by vin so there is a record of service done on the car but
most venders do not keep parts orders by vin so without the previous
owner's name (or the service center if ordered by a shop) finding
parts orders is harder. If you know the States the car was registered
in most State DMV agencies will sell you the registration record of
the car. Register on the DoD and look up the vin #. Go to DMCNEWS.COM.
The title you got when you bought the car should have the name of the
last owner and the State registered in so that is a good place to
start. You did keep a copy of it didn't you? If you can't get much
history a good mechanic can pretty much figure out the present
condition of the car. Service history is like family history, helpful
but not always essential. It's like being adopted and not knowing the
medical history of the parents but we do know the history of the
relatives!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Anyone ever own the Delorean with the VIN 10610? The last owners did 
>




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 14:26:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Horse Power and stereo

For the "best bang for the buck" low cost performance improvements the
route to go is to get the car running as correctly as you can with
stock components. This means a COMPLETE tune-up replacing the
secondary ignition system parts and testing and cleaning the fuel
system. Check that all systems are functioning. Now you have a
baseline for further enhancements. The old saying goes "Speed costs
money-how fast do you want to go?" For the C/D player either a
cassette adapter or hide a player in the "vault" behind the driver's seat.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> ( moderators note: both of these items have been discussed endlessly
and the archives at the mailing list web site are full of these
discussions. )
> 
> I have recently bought a delorean and I would like to know a few 
> things. The first is that is there any ways to get some more horse 
> power out of the car. I am on a tight budget and would like any help. 
> The other is there anyone who has put in a CD player and it fits in 
> well? I want to do some small upgrades but nothing to big to alter 
> the car.




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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 09:01:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Any ideas re: new wheels?

I toyed with the idea of replacement wheels and going
"plus 2", but ended up having my original wheels
chromed.  They are easy to care for, maintain the
"DeLorean  look" but add a real nice touch to the car.
 
And, they're less expensive than new replacement
wheels.

Dick Ryan
VIN16867


__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com



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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 13:14:27 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley

This summer I plan on fixing my engine so that it doesn't leak oil anymore.  
My plan right now is to replace the Timing Gear Cover gasket and the Rocker 
Covers gasket.  This appears to be where the majority of the oil is coming 
from.  My question is to remove the timing gear cover i will have to take the 
timing pulley.  If i don't move the timing sprocket will I be ok when I put 
everything back together?  Or do I need to mark where the pulley is and where 
the sprocket is set and make sure that all my marks line up again when I go to 
reassembly?

Thanks
 Willie Mack
 Vin 5043




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 11:49:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley

Willie, there is a key on the crankshaft that the
pulley fits onto.  So it will only go on one way.  Be
careful though.  With the pulley off, the key can fall
out and into the inside of the timing cover.  As
you're disassembling or before you reassemble, rotate
the engine so that the key is on the top of the crank.
 It should then stay in place for you.  Once you
remove the pulley nut, you'll be able to see the
key/keyway by looking at the pulley hub.  That crank
pulley nut can be a bear to get off too.  Feel free to
email me if you have any other questions.



=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com

__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 17:32:37 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: chromed wheels

Anyone has pics of chromed original wheels ?
thanks
Raph




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:04:41 -0000
From: "marciniak1963" <Admiral_mjm_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley

My leak was at the oil pressure sending unit


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:

> This summer I plan on fixing my engine so that it doesn't leak oil 
anymore.  
> My plan right now is to replace the Timing Gear Cover gasket and 
the Rocker 
> Covers gasket.  This appears to be where the majority of the oil is 
coming 
> from.  My question is to remove the timing gear cover i will have 
to take the 
> timing pulley.  If i don't move the timing sprocket will I be ok 
when I put 
> everything back together?  Or do I need to mark where the pulley is 
and where 
> the sprocket is set and make sure that all my marks line up again 
when I go to 
> reassembly?
> 
> Thanks
>  Willie Mack
>  Vin 5043




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:58:45 -0000
From: "silverdelorean2002" <silvercrw646_at_dml_cs.com>
Subject: New Delorean Body Kit

Hey Guys, I have been thinkin about this for a while now and finally 
come up with a design. I have been wanting to fabricate a custom 
Design Delorean Body Kit. Please take a look at the picture below of 
the Lotus Style Design bodyKit that will hopefully be made soon. 
Does anyone know any body Kit fabricators who will be able to tackle 
this kind of a Job. To me this makes the car look a whole lot more 
modern. I know some poeple are against mods. This will be a Bolt On 
MOd with no Modifiactions to the body and will bolt on onto factory 
holes. ANyone want to help with this project. Oh yea The picture I 
used as the backround car is Dan D.s of Delorean Mid atlantic. So 
Hope you dont mind i used your pic!


http://www.nagis.net/j_log/dan-side.jpg

Jon 
#10103




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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 20:44:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley

Plan on replacing the seal that goes around/behind the harmonic 
balancer i.e. the thing that has the timing marks on it. The seal is 
driven into the cover. You will also probably find that the surface 
of the balancer that rides on that seal is corroded, this of course 
wears on the seal and the new one will also leak in short order. It 
is a good idea to clean up that surface, it should be like a mirror. 
Depending on how bad it is, this either means cleaning it up with 
some emery cloth, turning it on a lathe (not very much!), putting a 
sleeve on it, or just replacing it.

I see the same problem all the time on axle flanges, but since the 
axle oil level is below the level of the seal, and no appreciable 
pressure is involved, axle seal leakage is not usually too much of a 
problem.  

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> This summer I plan on fixing my engine so that it doesn't leak oil 
anymore.  
> My plan right now is to replace the Timing Gear Cover gasket and 
the Rocker 
> Covers gasket.  




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 01:22:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Electrical problem

Don't you think it'd be an idea to check the accessories relay first? My 
friend's car suffered from a sticking relay and he's traced it to 
someone one putting a screw through the wiring loom under the centre 
console.

I would consider replacing the ignition barrel as a last resort, once 
everything else is ruled out, esp as they're hard to come by and expensive.

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>If it starts to happen regularly then replace the ignition switch.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>  
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 01:29:30 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak and Timing Pulley

The crankshaft pulley needs to be removed to get the timing cover off. 
Without undoing the tensioners on the timing chains you run no risk of 
the chains moving and ballsing up the timing. The pulley and timing 
sprockets are locked in place with seperate woodruff keys in the 
crankshaft. Besides, before you can touch the timing chains, you'd have 
to remove the oil pump chain first, so that alone is a "safety belt". 
Don't worry.

http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DSCN0777_1.jpg

My engine guy suggested that "given the chance, change the timing chains 
anyway - they' re cheap enough as it is and worth doing". This is 
especially true if your car has over 50k miles on it. These chains are 
very reliable and rarely break however they will stretch over time and 
throw the valve timing enough to lose you a few horses.

Martin
#1458
#4426

wmack wrote:

>This summer I plan on fixing my engine so that it doesn't leak oil anymore.  
>My plan right now is to replace the Timing Gear Cover gasket and the Rocker 
>Covers gasket.  This appears to be where the majority of the oil is coming 
>from.  My question is to remove the timing gear cover i will have to take the 
>timing pulley.  If i don't move the timing sprocket will I be ok when I put 
>everything back together?  Or do I need to mark where the pulley is and where 
>the sprocket is set and make sure that all my marks line up again when I go to 
>reassembly?
>
>Thanks
> Willie Mack
> Vin 5043
>
>  
>





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 20:13:02 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical problem

Ed, Weird things happen like this, Dirty contacts on the relay's or even
dirty wiper action in the ignition switch it's self can cause these
problems. The relay that might cause this would not be in a relay kit. It
would either be the main relay or the accessory relay in most cases. Both
are #102 in the diagram, but in your case with the radio and the blower
motor, those work off the accessory relay.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Garbade [mailto:edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 5:03 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Electrical problem


Weird one this morning.  Got to work and turned the key off and removed it.
The sound from the radio became scrambled (yes it should have gone off when
the key was turned off).  It reminded me of streaming a video clip on from
the web when the signal looses sync then the sound goes wacky.  It must be
an origional radio since it has DMC on the label.

Other symptoms include the fan (internal for AC) stayed on and internal dash
lights stayed on too.  I reinserted the key and turned it back to on.  The
radio sound and everything else started acting normal.  Turned the key off
and radio, dash lights, and fan stayed on.  Turned the key on and off again
and everything shut down.

So I figure it is either a relay somewhere or the ignition switch.  I have
done the relay upgrade and my lock module is removed (it failed and I
haven't replaced it yet since I am saving for a Lockazilla w/launcher).

Sorry if this is an old issue but I didn't know what to search for in the
archive.

Thanks,
Ed
10541



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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:09:46 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_IN2TIME.com>
Subject: RE: chromed wheels

Check out the wheels on the top picture of BLWNAWY at
http://delorean-parts.com/

Gary
www.PNDC.org

-----Original Message-----
From: ferdaniraphael [mailto:raphael.ferdani_at_dml_wanadoo.fr] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 10:33 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] chromed wheels


Anyone has pics of chromed original wheels ?
thanks
Raph



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 18:15:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: chromed wheels

It looks like Darryl Tinnerstet's "BlwnAwy" car has them- 
http://www.delorean-parts.com/ 
You can order these from DeLorean Motor Center-
http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_a7100130_4_pc_chrome_wheel_set.html

-Louie
VIN 10115

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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 21:24:41 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement

Hi List,
       Before work today I had a machine shop press the new bearings into the 
hub for me as I couldnt chance screwing them up.  I had the pads, spring 
pins, anti-squeel shims, calipers and rotors on in about an hour.  Everything 
went together well.  My squeeky brakes are gone and no more steering wheel 
vibration when slowing down.  Now on to my next problem.
       Ever since I have owned this car the brakes have have taken excessive 
foot presure to slow the car down.  I have driven in other D's and the brakes 
felt much easier than they do in my car.  I thought that the brake booster 
may not be working so I disconnected the vacuum hose(plugged it) from it but 
the brakes were a lot worse.  So I know the booster is working, but maybe not 
at 100%.
       Is there anything else I can check before replacing the booster?  I 
have already installed a new master cylinder, front brake everything, and 
rear pads.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dave
6286-MI


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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 21:36:09 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: STILL running a little rich...??

List,

well i wound up getting my timing checked and my timing was off by 6 degrees. 
 as soon as that was adjusted, my car has ceased idleing erratically when 
warm.  now i have NO complaints with driveability!!!  finally after 3 years 
everything seems to be working beautifully... the car starts up immediately 
every time, hot or cold, surges for about a minute or so when cold at 
leisurely cycle until it finds the 'sweet spot' and idles at around 750 
smooth as can be, and it doesn't fluctuate from that no matter how long i 
drive the car.  

my only complaints NOW are:
1. i'm barely getting 12 mpg in town (mostly on city streets, not much 
highway).  i have a manual and i don't abuse it.  any ideas?  
2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm up, the car 
starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are in.  this 
continues for only 2 or 3 blocks.  extremely short lived problem, but happens 
almost every time.  why?
3. when i start the car cold, it still smells kinda rich, but not nearly as 
bad as it did when the timing was off.  is this normal or should i not be 
able to smell the exhaust? once the car is warm, the exhaust is almost 
non-existant.

as suggested in previous posts, i have checked all vacuum lines - good.  
throttle - good.  three brass screws - seated.  cold start valve does NOT 
leak when warm. vacuum is present at the proper places when hot/cold, and not 
present when it shouldn't be. timing? good now (set to factory specs).  ALL 
ignition parts are about a year old.

here are a couple things to consider - i have a cat eliminator pipe, accell 
performance coil, K&N air filter. might make a difference?

the only thing i haven't done that i can think of is get the fuel/air mixture 
professionally checked.  there are no shops in my area that have the 
equipment.  is this the final task?

any other ideas are greatly appreciated.  i'm getting very close to wrapping 
this up!

Andy


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