From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1475
Date: Thursday, April 24, 2003 5:19 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Brake Fluid for Clutch
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_attbi.com>

2. Re: DCS #2
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

3. RE: electical problem
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. RE: Battery Light "glowing"
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. RE: Starting from scratch (from "critical engine failure")
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. RE: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

7. RE: where do I buy either single or twin turbo kits?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

8. Re: STILL running a little rich...??
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

9. Re: Brake Fluid for Clutch
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

10. Front Grill
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. Re: Brake fluid
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

12. Repair facilitires in Central Florida?
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

13. RE: Front Grill
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

14. Re: Re: Brake fluid
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

15. Re: Front Grill
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

16. Re: Brake fluid
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

17. Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement
From: ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com

18. Vacuum Advance Problem
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com

19. RE: Vacuum Advance Problem
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

20. Re: STILL running a little rich...??
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

21. Gullwing Magazine Issue #2
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>

22. Re: Brake fluid
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

23. Re: Vacuum Advance Problem
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

24. Re: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>

25. Re: Vacuum Advance Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 03:48:13 -0000
From: "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_attbi.com>
Subject: Brake Fluid for Clutch

Just read posts about using Castrol GT-LMA for brakes. What 
about clutch? Sign on car says DOT 4.
Kenn




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 23:49:09 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: DCS #2

Thanks Dick!  That means a lot coming from you!  We'll keep working to 
make this the best magazine we possibly can, and are always looking for 
great contributions like the one you sent us for our next issue!  

    Thanks again,
    Josh Haldeman
    Assistant Editor
     

Dick Ryan wrote:

>Just received and devoured DeLorean Car Show magazine
>#2.  Great job, Ken.
>
>Dick Ryan
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 23:06:16 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: electical problem

Marvin, The accessory relay is the one in the middle clipped under the black
metal frame.M:07:02 #35 in workshop manual.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Marvin [mailto:marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 2:22 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] electical problem


When I turn off the radio, I can very faintly hear the radio still playing.
Everything else on the car works great - no electrical problems. If I switch
a relay for the accessory relay in an attempt to see if that solves the
problem, which one should I switch? I don't have a spare relay.


Marv
# 17707
marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 23:14:25 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Battery Light "glowing"

Tony, You have blown a regulator in the alternator. The light wire is the
exciter wire for the regulator and 12 volts is going into the alternator
thru the light( #161 No sub )or battery light on the dash. Then when the
alternator starts turning it nullifies the light and it goes out.
If the alternator is turning at a good idle and the light is on then the
regulator is bad. You may also see the light come on when you run thru a
water puddle and it goes off.
This is a normal typical problem .
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
Home of the Brute Master Alternators.



-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Pistachio [mailto:TheStash_at_dml_optonline.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 3:57 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Battery Light "glowing"


Hi all,
I tried searching for this in the archives but got so many hits containing
anything with the words light or battery my head was spinning.

Suddenly I realized my battery light was dimly lit while driving. Not sure
how long because I only drive it on bright sunny days and the light is
hidden behind the steering wheel. It comes on brightly with the engine off
and the ignition on as it should.  However just barely glows at an idle and
gets brighter as you rev the engine. I checked as many connections as I
could get to - battery, relays, fuses etc. all are tight and no changes
while jiggling the wires. A volt meter across the battery reads 13.5 while
the engine is running so I'm not too worried because it's charging the
battery. There are virtually no add-ons like alarms or radio etc.
Any suggestions? The book points to Alternator or regulator. Oh, and the
belt is tight.
Thanks for your help,
Tony Pistachio
#10781 STSSTEEL
Wappingers Falls, NY



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 23:18:13 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Starting from scratch (from "critical engine failure")

Rich, I found a neat device called The Bubbler that can detect air via
compression in the coolant. Here is the link. It's a neet tool.You might be
intrested. Bottom of page.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html


-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 5:54 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Starting from scratch (from "critical engine failure")


For those of you who remember that article... Based on all the advice
I've received, I'm operating on the assumption that I've blown a head
gasket. (Coolant mixed with oil & a vacuum leak that I can't find).

People told me to find the source of the leaking fluid mix. I've
removed the intake, and crawled all over the engine. No fluid is
leaking from the head/block mating surfaces, dipstick tube, oil pan
plug or gasket. The source appears to be from the rear crank seal,
but I haven't split the engine from the transmission to check yet.

I am also operating on the advice that these blocks very rarely
crack. This engine only has 22K on it, and it sat for many years so I
believe it. I intend to yank the engine and just rebuild it. I am on
a budget however. I intend to get the engine recondition kit #102565
from delorean.com, bearings and rings. Since the miles are low I'm
not going to do the chains and sprockets.

My question:  Are there any other "must have" items that aren't in
that kit, that I need before I start this?

Thanks.

Rich
#5335-MD



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 23:20:39 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Front Rotor Replacement

Be carefull of rebuilt ones. They may go out quicker and the 20 to 30
dollars savings may not be worth it, especially on brakes system.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 6:08 AM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Front Rotor Replacement


He's got a valid point here. It sounds like a master cylinder problem. Just
because you replaced it that doesn't necessarily mean that the new one
doesn't have a problem. My neighbor went through 3 master cylinders in one
day on his Tahoe before he got one that was good.

If you're unsure, a good garage should be able to test it and verify that
it's good.

>
>
> Did you use parts from a D vendor?
>
> Andy
>
>



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 23:24:55 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: where do I buy either single or twin turbo kits?

Casey, There is a company in Dallas that may still do twin turbos.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: C. C. Cameron Putsch [mailto:putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 1:08 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] where do I buy either single or twin turbo kits?


Hello all. I am sure most of you know about the single and twin turbo kits
for our cars and how much they cost, but where do they come from? I hear the
single kit is no longer available, but you can still get the twins new. How
do I contact these people? Any info is very apreciated.

Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 04:40:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: STILL running a little rich...??

Appears I'm last person to board this wagon...

When you state "vacuum not present when it's not supposed to be", does
that include spark advance at idle? I don't have cut off solenoid, and
in early PRV days ended up attaching my loose diaphragm to a full
vacuum nipple. Advanced ever living mess out of engine. Over enriched
to compensate. Yielded wonderful idle, but shot fuel economy to
pieces. Also killed performance at wider throttle positions. 

Ensure your spark advance is off at idle.

FYI: My spark advance now taken BEFORE throttle plates (like an old 
carburetor). R30 control pressure regulator has no vacuum chambers, 
so I don't get the full vacuum fuel enrichment spike you do.

Bill Robertson
#5939 

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> well i wound up getting my timing checked and my timing was off by 6
degrees. 
>  as soon as that was adjusted, my car has ceased idleing erratically
when 
> warm.  now i have NO complaints with driveability!!!  finally after
3 years 
> everything seems to be working beautifully... the car starts up
immediately 
> every time, hot or cold, surges for about a minute or so when cold at 
> leisurely cycle until it finds the 'sweet spot' and idles at around 750 
> smooth as can be, and it doesn't fluctuate from that no matter how
long i 
> drive the car.  
> 
> my only complaints NOW are:
> 1. i'm barely getting 12 mpg in town (mostly on city streets, not much 
> highway).  i have a manual and i don't abuse it.  any ideas?  
> 2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm
up, the car 
> starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are
in.  this 
> continues for only 2 or 3 blocks.  extremely short lived problem,
but happens 
> almost every time.  why?
> 3. when i start the car cold, it still smells kinda rich, but not
nearly as 
> bad as it did when the timing was off.  is this normal or should i
not be 
> able to smell the exhaust? once the car is warm, the exhaust is almost 
> non-existant.
> 
> as suggested in previous posts, i have checked all vacuum lines -
good.  
> throttle - good.  three brass screws - seated.  cold start valve
does NOT 
> leak when warm. vacuum is present at the proper places when
hot/cold, and not 
> present when it shouldn't be. timing? good now (set to factory
specs).  ALL 
> ignition parts are about a year old.
> 
> here are a couple things to consider - i have a cat eliminator pipe,
accell 
> performance coil, K&N air filter. might make a difference?
> 
> the only thing i haven't done that i can think of is get the
fuel/air mixture 
> professionally checked.  there are no shops in my area that have the 
> equipment.  is this the final task?
> 
> any other ideas are greatly appreciated.  i'm getting very close to
wrapping 
> this up!
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:28:33 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid for Clutch

Yes - stame stuff, different reservoir. BTW in many people's 
experience (including mine) if the clutch fluid has not been changed 
in a long time (several years) changing it with any fluid will almost 
always make one or both cylinders start leaking within a few months. 
Seems like changing out very old fluid breaks loose some crud and it 
lets go. OTOH - I know people that keep up with the maintenance and 
the cylinders last a good long time. 

Dave S

 - --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Just read posts about using Castrol GT-LMA for brakes. What 
> about clutch? Sign on car says DOT 4.
> Kenn




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:45:17 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Front Grill

Hello all,
  I was looking around on my Delorean and wanted wanted to ask about 
the front grill. The DMC logo is still gray but isn't the border 
piece around it black? I knmow the grill is also black. I was just 
wondering if anyone know how I could get the black paint back on and 
stay. Also the Delorean logo on the hood is the same case. Silver 
letters with a now silver border. Anyone know what I can do?
       Thanks




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 12:42:19 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid

I have always been able to get it at NAPA. Also, the new Valvoline 
synthetic brake fluid is an LMA DOT 3-4 fluid that is the equivalent 
or better than the Castrol.

Harold McElraft - 3354



-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Ok i can not find Castrol GT-LMA anywhere near my house, what else 
can i use in my
> system that i can just pour in?
> 
> Mark
> 6683




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:30:38 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Repair facilitires in Central Florida?

Does anyone know of any places in Central Florida that can work on a 
DeLorean?  Not body work but engine and transmission work?  Mine is 
doing fine now (knock on wood) but just trying to be prepared...






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 09:39:10 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Front Grill

I did this not too long ago to my front grill logo. The only real way to do
it is to mask off the logo. Use large pieces of masking tape and a sharp
cutting utensil like an Exacto knife. When cutting out the logo, make sure
to leave about 3/16 of an inch around each letter so you can push the tape
down and protect the sides of the letters. Then, just paint over it with a
satin black. Remove the tape and, voila! 

> Hello all,
>   I was looking around on my Delorean and wanted wanted to ask about
> the front grill. The DMC logo is still gray but isn't the border
> piece around it black? I knmow the grill is also black. I was just
> wondering if anyone know how I could get the black paint back on and
> stay. Also the Delorean logo on the hood is the same case. Silver
> letters with a now silver border. Anyone know what I can do?
>        Thanks
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:50:57 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Brake fluid

It's not the DOT rating that matters - it's the chemical 
composition of the fluid.  Ask ANY Girling brake or clutch
component owner - Castrol is the only fluid that does not
eventually attack the material in the seals that Girling 
uses for their parts.  

--
Mike
> I have always been able to get it at NAPA. Also, the new Valvoline 
> synthetic brake fluid is an LMA DOT 3-4 fluid that is the equivalent 
> or better than the Castrol.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 15:02:56 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Front Grill

Hiya

The easiest thing by far is to prime and spray the whole thing black and 
then using a sanding block, rub the paint off the surface of the 
letters. Works great

Martin

Kramer wrote:

>Hello all,
>  I was looking around on my Delorean and wanted wanted to ask about 
>the front grill. The DMC logo is still gray but isn't the border 
>piece around it black? I knmow the grill is also black. I was just 
>wondering if anyone know how I could get the black paint back on and 
>stay. Also the Delorean logo on the hood is the same case. Silver 
>letters with a now silver border. Anyone know what I can do?
>       Thanks
>
>
>
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:49:43 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid

I heartily agree with Harold on this point.  Winged1 has been using 
Valvoline Synthetic DOT (3 and 4) for several years, and I have been 
very happy with it.  There has been absolutely no down side to using 
it.  It has good numbers, doesn't absorb much moisture, is 
compatible with "normal" brake fluids, and seems to stay very clean 
over time.  I use it in both the clutch and brake systems.  I also use 
it in my SOB's (Some Other Brand - Explorer, Intrepid)

Toby Peterson  VIN2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> ... Also, the new Valvoline 
> synthetic brake fluid is an LMA DOT 3-4 fluid that is the equivalent 
> or better than the Castrol.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:56:29 GMT
From: ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com
Subject: Re: Re: Front Rotor Replacement

How'z your idle?  You should check to make sure your vacuum booster is getting and holding a vacuum.  The booster really does ease the braking force.  

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Front Rotor Replacement


> Hi List,
>        Ever since I have owned this car the brakes have have taken
excessive
> foot presure to slow the car down.
Thanks
>
> Dave
> 6286-MI



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 12:34:30 -0500
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com
Subject: Vacuum Advance Problem

Just to give a bit of background, I have just completed replacing the engine on my one of my Deloreans due to severe engine damage caused by the previous owner. I picked up a used engine with 22K miles on it, and installed this in the car, and an having an issue with the vacuum advance.

The car starts right up, and runs well when it is cold. When cold it runs normal, idle is normal, and there is no unsual sounds. As soon as the car warms up and the vacuum advance kicks in on the distrubutor to advance the timing, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the distributor. It sounds like metal on metal, and the timing is not being advanced as it should. If I put my hand on the distributor I can feel it rumbling a bit as if it is trying to advance the timing but fails, and retrys, etc.

Anyone have an idea as to what might be causing this? My next step is to pull the intake off and pull the distributor assemly out and take a look at it, but I've never done anything with a 'D' distributor so I'm not sure if this is something that I might be able to service or not? 

One thing I did notice when I got the engine was that the rotor was broken, so I'm curious if the distributor could be damaged by dropping something on it (thus the broken rotor and perhaps damaged distributor)? 

Anyone know if you can pick up a replacement Bosch distributor at Pep Boys or another auto store, or Boch part number for it? Thanks

This car is inches from seeing the road for the first time in three years, so any help would be appreciated.

Mike Polzin

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 15:11:06 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Vacuum Advance Problem

Start with the distributor and work your way back. I would take a look at
the vacuum advance solenoid. It may be stuck.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com [mailto:MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 1:35 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Vacuum Advance Problem
> 
> Just to give a bit of background, I have just completed replacing the
> engine on my one of my Deloreans due to severe engine damage caused by the
> previous owner. I picked up a used engine with 22K miles on it, and
> installed this in the car, and an having an issue with the vacuum advance.
> 
> The car starts right up, and runs well when it is cold. When cold it runs
> normal, idle is normal, and there is no unsual sounds. As soon as the car
> warms up and the vacuum advance kicks in on the distrubutor to advance the
> timing, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the distributor. It sounds
> like metal on metal, and the timing is not being advanced as it should. If
> I put my hand on the distributor I can feel it rumbling a bit as if it is
> trying to advance the timing but fails, and retrys, etc.
> 
> Anyone have an idea as to what might be causing this? My next step is to
> pull the intake off and pull the distributor assemly out and take a look
> at it, but I've never done anything with a 'D' distributor so I'm not sure
> if this is something that I might be able to service or not?
> 
> One thing I did notice when I got the engine was that the rotor was
> broken, so I'm curious if the distributor could be damaged by dropping
> something on it (thus the broken rotor and perhaps damaged distributor)?
> 
> Anyone know if you can pick up a replacement Bosch distributor at Pep Boys
> or another auto store, or Boch part number for it? Thanks
> 
> This car is inches from seeing the road for the first time in three years,
> so any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Mike Polzin
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 19:22:17 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: STILL running a little rich...??

> my only complaints NOW are:
> 1. i'm barely getting 12 mpg in town (mostly on city streets, not 
much 
> highway).  i have a manual and i don't abuse it.  any ideas?  
> 2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm 
up, the car 
> starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are 
in.  this 
> continues for only 2 or 3 blocks.  extremely short lived problem, 
but happens 
> almost every time.  why?

I think you have two problems based on what you say about everything 
appearing to be working.

First, the hesitation - the vacuum delay valve at the fuel pressure 
regulator is probably dropping vacuum too fast. This valve causes 
the cold engine fuel spike when it holds a vacuum long enough. If it 
leaks down vacuum too fast you get too little fuel and the engine 
stumbles. When the engine warms up the vacuum to the valve is turned 
off. The best way to test it is to take it off and time the leak-
down with a manual vacuum pump. The specs are in the shop manual.

Second, the low fuel mileage is probably the o2 sensor not working 
or, the WOT switch is stuck closed. Since the lambda system is an 
enrichment system, if it does not work at all (including the 
frequency valve) the system goes lean. But, if the system is 
working, when the o2 sensor fails the system defaults to an enriched 
condition. The same is true for the WOT switch - when the switch is 
depressed, the system goes to an enriched mode. If the o2 sensor is 
less than a year old I would suspect the WOT switch, but be sure to 
check the wire to the o2 sensor. The WOT switch is at the throttle 
spool and the wiring is on top at the main harness. It is a normally 
open switch - no continuity. Activated should show continuity. If in 
doubt just disconnect it.

Harold McElraft - 3354





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 19:43:25 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Gullwing Magazine Issue #2

Gullwing Magazine subscribers,

Issue #2 of Gullwing Magazine is now being printed!

We will be shipping them over the next several days, so expect to see 
yours in the mail within a week.

If you have not yet subscribed and would like to do so, please 
contact us at gullwingmagazine_at_dml_juno.com.

Thanks

Ron






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 19:48:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid

If you are diligent about changing the brake fluid every 2 years as
recommended you will probably be OK. It is just that every shop that
works on English-British cars will tell you that you should use
Castrol GTLMA. It might only be folklore but they have to service and
stand behind their work so if that's what they recommend then that is
good enough for me! Besides there is usually no difference in price,
it just comes done to availability and convienience. Order some extra
and put it on the shelf, it is good for any car except one with DOT 5
in it. NEVER mix the DOT'S. You will always wind up with the lower
DOT's rating. BTW the DOT rating is given mainly for boiling point, it
has nothing to do with compatability for seals. The story is the
rubber Lucas-Girling uses for the seals is more compatable with the
Castrol then the other brands. You also use the Castrol in the
hydraulic clutch for the same reasons. Brake fluid is a lot cheaper
than rebuilding and replacing the parts in the brake system!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_k...> wrote:
> I heartily agree with Harold on this point.  Winged1 has been using 
> Valvoline Synthetic DOT (3 and 4) for several years, and I have been 
> very happy with it.  There has been absolutely no down side to using 
> it.  It has good numbers, doesn't absorb much moisture, is 
> compatible with "normal" brake fluids, and seems to stay very clean 
> over time.  I use it in both the clutch and brake systems.  I also use 
> it in my SOB's (Some Other Brand - Explorer, Intrepid)
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN2248
> Winged1
> 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 20:07:19 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance Problem

Most vacuum advance mechanisms merely rotate a plate 
in the distributor housing around the rotor shaft.  
In the old days, this plate held the breaker points.
As the plate moved, the points changed position relative
to a cam attached to the rotor shaft, causing the points
to break earlier or later.  Breakerless distributors move
a hall-effect sensor instead of the points, changing the 
postion of the sensor relative to the rotor itself.  
It is possible that the pivot on which you distributor's
advance mechanism moves is damaged, causing the plate to 
twist instead of rotate.  This would cause the rotor 
to hit the hall effect sensor, making the noise and vibrations
you are experiencing.

--
Mike

> Just to give a bit of background, I have just completed replacing the engine on 
> my one of my Deloreans due to severe engine damage caused by the previous owner. 
> I picked up a used engine with 22K miles on it, and installed this in the car, 
> and an having an issue with the vacuum advance.
> 
> The car starts right up, and runs well when it is cold. When cold it runs 
> normal, idle is normal, and there is no unsual sounds. As soon as the car warms 
> up and the vacuum advance kicks in on the distrubutor to advance the timing, I 
> can hear a clicking sound coming from the distributor. It sounds like metal on 
> metal, and the timing is not being advanced as it should. 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 21:29:33 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>
Subject: Re: History's Greatest Blunders and E! Hollywood True Stories

Hmm...is it just me, or is the De Lorean in the opening seconds of 
this episode built differently? The whole lower front end of the car 
looks different. I always thought the intake on the bottom was black. 
Or am I just an idiot? 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 19:37:08 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advance Problem

Why can't you put the distributer from the engine you removed into the
car? Presumably that one should be OK. If the distributer that is in
the car now had a broken rotor it is possible the shaft inside is bent
if something fell on it hard enough to break the rotor or maybe it got
bent-broken when the engine was removed from the previous car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, MPolzin_at_dml_s... wrote:
> Just to give a bit of background, I have just completed replacing
the engine on my one of my Deloreans due to severe engine damage
caused by the previous owner. I picked up a used engine with 22K miles
on it, and installed this in the car, and an having an issue with the
vacuum advance.
> 
> The car starts right up, and runs well when it is cold. When cold it
runs normal, idle is normal, and there is no unsual sounds. As soon as
the car warms up and the vacuum advance kicks in on the distrubutor to
advance the timing, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the
distributor. It sounds like metal on metal, and the timing is not
being advanced as it should. If I put my hand on the distributor I can
feel it rumbling a bit as if it is trying to advance the timing but
fails, and retrys, etc.
> 
> Anyone have an idea as to what might be causing this? My next step
is to pull the intake off and pull the distributor assemly out and
take a look at it, but I've never done anything with a 'D' distributor
so I'm not sure if this is something that I might be able to service
or not? 
> 
> One thing I did notice when I got the engine was that the rotor was
broken, so I'm curious if the distributor could be damaged by dropping
something on it (thus the broken rotor and perhaps damaged distributor)? 
> 
> Anyone know if you can pick up a replacement Bosch distributor at
Pep Boys or another auto store, or Boch part number for it? Thanks
> 
> This car is inches from seeing the road for the first time in three
years, so any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Mike Polzin
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/