From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1489
Date: Saturday, May 03, 2003 7:00 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>

2. Re: Lower Control Arm (PDC SS option)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>

3. Re: engine swaps and weight distribution?!
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

4. Gas Leak
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

5. Re: Fuel Distributor
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

6. Re: engine swaps and weight distribution?!
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Gas Quark
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>

8. Re: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

10. Re: Fuel Distributor
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

11. Re: Gas Quark
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

12. Re: Gas Leak
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: Gas Leak
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com

14. Re: Gas Quark
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: timing chain tool
From: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk

16. Re: Gas Leak
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>

17. Re: Re: re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
From: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk

18. RE: engine swaps and tranny questions
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>

19. Re: Cleaning Wheels
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: loose bright lights
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. Re: Celebrities with Deloreans?
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

22. RE: Re: Gas Leak (freon)
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

23. Re: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

24. AC quits working when the car stops moving?
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

25. Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 01:32:11 -0700
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: RE: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler

Dominique from France

First of all which model did you order and how much did you pay? I have
experience with sending things over seas and believe me 50% of items
mailed never make it! I mailed an American flag for my friend in
Poland..in never made it! If this happened here there would be an
investigation and your money would have been refunded in a claim. Let me
know which model you were talking about and I will see what I can do.
E-mail me at Vegascop1 (at) lvcm.com

Thnx,
Ski 4649

-----Original Message-----
From: dreamdmc [mailto:dominique.flandin_at_dml_wanadoo.fr] 
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 12:38 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DeLorean model of Lee Seiler


Hello everyone, this is the very first time I post a message to the 
list, so, I hope everything will be fine. About two year ago I have 
ordered a DeLorean model to Lee Seiler on his web site. Today, he 
took the money and, unfortunately I don't have any model. My friend 
Cheryl Wester told me to post a message because many people are like 
me, in a sad position, the money gone but the car does not come. If 
anyone has any news about Lee Seiler it will be nice to give me some 
news because Lee Seiler does not answer to my e-mail. I think it's 
hopeless. Thank you very much. I would like to apologize if they're 
any mistake, but I am French and my English is not so good some 
times !!!
Sincerely.
Dominique from France.



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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 15:42:38 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich_at_dml_outernet-tech.net>
Subject: Re: Lower Control Arm (PDC SS option)

Front Lower Control Arms do get bent up for a number of reasons.

Concrete parking stops have probably caused a lot of damage on
both the LCA's and the front sway bar mounts of many Deloreans,
including damage to the recall update kit reinforcement plates.
These are the first point of contact on non-lowered Deloreans.

Another cause of dented LCA's is from some spring compressors,
which can cause dents on both leading and trailing edges of the
LCA's.  I have assisted on many shock and spring replacements
on Delorean front suspensions and have seen this denting happen
during the spring compression process.  Bending the bent areas
back in place probably leads to additional metal fatigue.

I agree with Dave that a lot of denting of the LCA's has also
been due to ham-handed tow truck operators, since I have also
seen crumple tube sections that have been severly damagaed by
hooked chains placed in (and tore open) the crumple tube area.

I second the motion that all Delorean owners should make an
effort to go to your local club tech sessions and get your car
up on a lift and inspected.  If you drive your car often, then
inspect it often.  Structural integrity is important to safety.

Later,
Rich W.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> On a significant # of cars that I have seen I have noticed that the
> lower control arms are bent. It seems that in many cases when a car 
is
> towed or hauled onto a carrier the operator uses recovery hooks and
> places them on the lower control arms. Since they weren't made to be
> used in that way they get damaged. On many other imported cars they
> have put warning labels on the LCA's to try and keep ham-handed tow
> truck operators from damaging undercarriage parts in this manner. 
This
> is one of the great benefits of going to a club meet and having the
> car inspected. In many cases it is the first time the car was ever
> inspected underneath. Better to find the beginnings of a problem and
> deal with it before it becomes catastophic. In this case I wonder if
> the failures of the LCA's is related to damage caused by towing. For
> the future try to make sure if the car is ever recovered that the 
tow
> operator uses the hooks on the frame and not the lower control arms 
to
> pull the car.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 





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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 11:34:49 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: engine swaps and weight distribution?!

Cameron,

There are two opinions on the weight issue.  People who put in heavier 
cast iron engines have put an extra 100 lbs of weight up front to off 
set the difference in handling.


I put in an aluminum engine and so have other people and this has no 
effect on weight.since they weight essentially the same.


BOB




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 11:50:11 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Gas Leak

I filled up with gas yesterday, $1.48 not to bad in northern virginia.  While 
I was inside paying for the gas, the people standing in front of me remarked 
that the front end of my car was leaking.  I just brushed off as a funny quark 
of the car, but inside I was concerned.  As I walked out to the car, I put my 
hand under the car and felt the liquid the had accumalted.  When I put my hand 
up to my nose, sure enough it was gas.  Now my concern grows, why is my car 
leaking gas?  I have noticed that it leaves oil marks when I park it, but I 
have never noticed gas.  What could be the problem?  I have never done 
anything to the fuel system since i've owned the car.  I know that it needs to 
proberly be replaced with all new parts.

Thanks
 Will
 Vin 5043




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 11:56:16 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Distributor

I took a shot with the exact same fuel distributor from a 760 with the same
product code.(105) It is compatible with our car. It has been working great
without any adjustments. (However, it did come from a running 760 that had
been well maintained that was parted out due to a crash) IMHO, for ten bucks
and an hour's work, it's worth a shot. Just make sure that sucker is flushed
and CLEAN before you install it! Ask the ebay seller if valve pin is still
in the unit.
Rustproof
Vin 1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 2:26 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] Fuel Distributor


> Rich, Be carefull buying one off ebay. I buy them and rebuild them. I
> wouldn't trust them to work that long if they work at all.If your needing
a
> fuel distributor, take a look at the web site.
> John Hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/fuel-distributors.html
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 7:32 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Fuel Distributor
>
>
> Among other high-dollar parts that I need for 5335, I need a fuel
> distributor.
>
> I happened across one on E-bay. Came out of a Vovlo 260 GLE. Please
> take a look at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&item=2413660291
>
> It doesn't look EXACTLY like mine. Is this just a bad idea?



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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 09:03:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine swaps and weight distribution?!

Putting more weight behind the axle is much different
from putting more weight just above the axle or
between the axles.  We already have a rear  weight
bias that is approaching the limit for good handling. 
Adding another 200 pounds back there is akin to the
driving experience you get when pulling a fully loaded
trailer that has lightened your front end.

Check out www.team.net/sol/tech/engine.html for weight
comparisons of a large bunch of engines (including the
PRV used the DeLorean).  

Of course you can always get a a custom made aluminum
block for a small block Chevy or Ford, but you are
talking very big bucks now.  

The Rover V8 works because it is an aluminum block
based upon the early 60's aluminum Buick 215 V8. See
<www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer.bat?v8engine/
v8engineindx> for a very complete set of information
about these engines - including prices. 

And, of course, there are a bunch of new V6's that
could work and produce 220-25- HP in stock form, but
again, the $$$$$ are big.

Geez, don't you wish HP was cheap?

Dick RyaVIN 16867

--- "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu> wrote:
> Hey guys. I think it is great to have more power
> from a D. Anyway, I wonder how much a chevy or ford
> v-8 or other engines higher weight will change or
> hurt weight distribution and handling. If you put a
> heavier engine behind the wheels it will just make
> the 65/35 distribution more extreme. This is the
> biggest factor stopping me from thinking of doing a
> swap. What do you all think?
> 
> Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1_at_dml_osu.edu 



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 11:50:27 -0400
From: wmack <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
Subject: Gas Quark

I filled up with gas yesterday, $1.48 not to bad in northern virginia.  While 
I was inside paying for the gas, the people standing in front of me remarked 
that the front end of my car was leaking.  I just brushed off as a funny quark 
of the car, but inside I was concerned.  As I walked out to the car, I put my 
hand under the car and felt the liquid the had accumalted.  When I put my hand 
up to my nose, sure enough it was gas.  Now my concern grows, why is my car 
leaking gas?  I have noticed that it leaves oil marks when I park it, but I 
have never noticed gas.  What could be the problem?  I have never done 
anything to the fuel system since i've owned the car.  I know that it needs to 
proberly be replaced with all new parts.

Thanks
 Will
 Vin 5043




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 09:10:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler

Small claims courts vary by state.  The only one I
ever dealt with was in CA (where Lee lives) and was
years ago.  At that point in time, BOTH parties had to
live within the jurisdiction of that particular court.

BTW, I guess I am one of the lucky ones.  I've had my
model for over two years.  However, I have never
opened the box, saving it for ??????.  Now I wonder if
I should see what is really inside.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

--- Ian Foster <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com> wrote:
> MODERATOR NOTE - Although we've been asked by the
> parties involved to kill off this topic, it seemed
> like a long enough time to let it come up again
> since it has not apparently been resolved. Please
> direct correspondence to Ken at the address given.
> ---dave



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 19:43:45 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_y...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> BTW, I guess I am one of the lucky ones.  I've had my
> model for over two years.  However, I have never
> opened the box, saving it for ??????.  Now I wonder if
> I should see what is really inside.
> 
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867

Now that is a question that I can answer.

Basicly, it's a cannibalized BTTF model kit (I know, because I once 
built one). The bottom chassis section, the glass sections, wheels, 
tires, and decals are all from a BTTF kit. Even the decal sheet has 
the BTTF logo and panels on it, and the model also has the "hover 
mode" suspension. It looks exactly as though someone opened up a BTTF 
kit, and moved everything right on over. With the exception of the 
body shell. That is the same exact one as you get with the original 
kit. But, the holes in the body to fit the flux dispersal coils have 
been filled, and the power cables that run along the fenders have 
been filed off. The entire shell has then been recast in the same 
resin as the other custom parts to reflect these mods. But, as this 
is a modified BTTF kit, there is no engine in the engine compartment 
to speak of.

I'm not trying to knock it though, and here's why. You truly can 
customize the model to your own liking. Included are 3 unique bonnets 
(lines w/gas flap, lines w/o flap, and flat w/neither). There is a 
set of louvers included for the back, and it comes with a little 
underbody section so you can have fully functioning doors that open. 
And yes, little tiny functioning torsion bars are included. I have 
not assembled my kit, nor do I really plan to. It's a nice little 
peice of memorabilia to have in many respects of both general 
DeLorean items, and the rare ones that people seek out. Other than 
that, the kit looks like a pain to put together if you ever decided 
to assemble it with the opening doors, and bonnet. You have to cut 
allot of parts with great precsion from what I've seen. And I'm more 
of a "file it 'till it fits" type of person :p That of course, and 
the fact that while I recall that when the model was first built, it 
was stated that extra parts would be available. Now with the current 
situation others have had just getting the models, I'm not sure that 
I could so easily get the smaller bits if I broke them. Plus some of 
the pieces are shrink wrapped when shipped. The bonnets for example 
were wrapped too tight, and the edges on one of them is chipped a bit.

I don't regret buying the model at all, as it is a nice collection 
piece to have. Although due to the small bit of controversy 
surrounding it, it's scarity, and the what little is realy known 
about it, it's a nice little item that usually only "hard-core" 
collectors would go after. The first (and only time I remember) the 
model appeared on eBay, there were indeed quite a few willing buyers. 
Soon after that, I believe that there was an annoucement made by Lee 
that due to the high price that was reflected on eBay, the prices of 
new models that were to be sold would increase accordingly. So the 
model does indeed have quite a story to go along with it.

As far as the legal issues involved with everyone else goes, I'm 
staying out of that one. I've had absolutely no dealings with Lee 
Seiler. I purchased my model from someone who recieved theirs from 
Lee directly. So on the subject of obtaining one from him, or 
contacting him, I've nothing at all to offer. But I can say that if 
you're looking for a model to customize, I'd advise using the Sunstar 
as a begining point. However,if you're going to build a nice 
respectable collection of unique memorabilia, and are looking for 
items that are hard to find, I'd reccomend adding the Seiler model to 
your list in case you ever run across it.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 19:36:43 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Distributor

My fuel system "crashed" some time back from a dead ign. module & sitting 
for a year.  The shop that worked on it replaced everything EXCEPT the fuel 
dist.   They let it soak in BG44K  fuel cleaner for a couple of days.  
POWERFUL stuff.  Slightly expensive, but one can does more than one DMC 
tankfull, and not recommended to repeat use for ~5000 miles.  My dist. is 
still working well.          Drive Stainless    Robert  VIN 6924


From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Fuel Distributor
Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 14:32:19 -0000

Among other high-dollar parts that I need for 5335, I need a fuel
distributor.

I happened across one on E-bay. Came out of a Vovlo 260 GLE. Please
take a look at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=2413660291

It doesn't look EXACTLY like mine. Is this just a bad idea?



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 18:48:25 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Quark

Willie - Assuming that the the leak is up front, rather than back near 
the engine, and the filler tube has not come loose, I would guess that 
the rubber boot and cover that hold your fuel pump are probably 
cracked and deteriorated.  The boot sits in gas all the time, and the 
rubber eventually gets damaged from that exposure, and the rubber or 
plastic cover seems to get disturbed or damaged on many cars, which 
can lead to water getting into the fuel pump area, or gas getting out, 
after it has leaked into the boot.  The area that I am talking about 
can be accessed through the inspection panel at the rear of the spare 
tire well in front.  This can be a dangerous situation, so I would 
recommend that you make it a top priority.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
>Now my concern grows, why is my car leaking gas?  I have noticed that 
>it leaves oil marks when I park it, but I have never noticed gas.  
>What could be the problem?  I have never done anything to the fuel 
>system since i've owned the car.  I know that it needs to proberly be 
>replaced with all new parts.





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 18:24:24 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Gas Leak

I consider myself the foremost authority on leaks with this car....I 
have fixed fuel leaks, coolant leaks, brake fluid leaks and freon 
leaks......The answer to your question is that I need more info....If 
it only happens when you fill up that is one thing, if it happens 
when you are back home or driving it is another...I am guessing that 
you are overflowing at the main gas hose that leads into the 
tank....I never over fill the car and often because of the angle of 
the hose the pump cuts off 5 times while I am pumping gas.....

Inside the bonnet remove both panels and look for the leak.... If you 
do this at the gas station away from the pumps it will be open and 
ventilated....do you smell gas when you are driving??? looking under 
the car can be misleading because the leak may be traveling down the 
frame.....I live in MD, not far from you.....let us know what you 
find. The most important thing is to find out what it is now. Do not 
mess around when it comes to gas. 

Mike C
2109







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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 12:19:23 -0500
From: MPolzin_at_dml_sen.com
Subject: Re: Gas Leak

Was the car running while you were leaking gas, or was the engine stopped? I
would pull off the fuel pump cover and check the fuel lines coming from the
pump to the metal nozzles. I would guess that the lines are old and rotting
on you. An inspection is the only way to be sure what is going on.

Mike Polzin

----- Original Message -----
From: "wmack" <wmack_at_dml_vt.edu>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 10:50 AM
Subject: [DML] Gas Leak


> I filled up with gas yesterday, $1.48 not to bad in northern virginia.
While
> I was inside paying for the gas, the people standing in front of me
remarked
> that the front end of my car was leaking.  I just brushed off as a funny
quark
> of the car, but inside I was concerned.  As I walked out to the car, I put
my
> hand under the car and felt the liquid the had accumalted.  When I put my
hand
> up to my nose, sure enough it was gas.  Now my concern grows, why is my
car
> leaking gas?  



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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 18:58:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Quark

Leaking fuel can be very dangerous. Since you said it happened right
after you filled up and the car is leaking in front I would suggest
you pull the covers off in the bonnet (the one by the spare tire and
the other under the fill) and inspect the rubber. Look for
deteriorated or mispositioned rubber boots, and hose clamps. Make sure
you have the correct gas cap. It seems the one on the Delorean is kind
of unique and if it was ever replaced it is possible the replacement
is not correct. Try to do this as quickly as possible and don't park
the car in an enclosed space until you fix this!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, wmack <wmack_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> I filled up with gas yesterday, $1.48 not to bad in northern
virginia.  While 
> I was inside paying for the gas, the people standing in front of me
remarked 
> that the front end of my car was leaking.  I just brushed off as a
funny quark 
> of the car, but inside I was concerned.  As I walked out to the car,
I put my 
> hand under the car and felt the liquid the had accumalted.  When I
put my hand 
> up to my nose, sure enough it was gas.  Now my concern grows, why is
my car 
> leaking gas?  I have noticed that it leaves oil marks when I park
it, but I 
> have never noticed gas.  What could be the problem?  I have never done 
> anything to the fuel system since i've owned the car.  I know that
it needs to 
> proberly be replaced with all new parts.
> 
> Thanks
>  Will
>  Vin 5043




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 20:23:12 +0000
From: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk
Subject: Re: timing chain tool

That's because it's a waste of time. Just take the opportunity to change the timing chains as well - it's only an extra hour's work to remove the timing cover.

Martin

> Does anybody have a tool to hold the timing chain tension while
> changing out the head gaskets that they might be willing to part
> with. Is there another way to hold the tension?  I saw the recent
> discussions on this but it seemed nobody addressed actually using
> such a tool.
> Thanks,
> Dale Funk
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 16:18:38 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel_at_dml_lorainccc.edu>
Subject: Re: Gas Leak

There are three places on top of the gas tank that could be leaking.  The fuel filler
inlet, the fuel gauge sender, and the fuel pump.  All three can be seen easily by simply
removing the panel under the spare tire.

If the tank is full enough for fuel to puddle under the car, it should be easy to spot
the leak.  You can probably solve it by tightening the offending connection.  My bet is
that it's the big clamp around your fuel pump (requires a screwdriver), though it might
be the fuel gauge sender (requires strong fingers).  It's very unlikely that you need any
parts, but even if you do it'll probably just be a new clamp.

You should get on this immediately.  A dangerous fuel leak that's easy to repair should
be the very top of anybody's priority list.

- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280    8 years.




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 20:26:01 +0000
From: webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk
Subject: Re: Re: re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)

> 
> Since the problem of twisted input shafts, and loose nuts drilling the case
> seems to be related only to the DeLorean application of the UN1 Transaxle
> thus far, is it possible that the model # for the individual transaxles is not only
> representative of the gear ratios themselves, but of the grade/quality of the
> internal parts used? Since the application was intended for the DeLorean,
> perhaps Renault skimped on the quality since the cars were only going to
> handle 130 bhp anyways? 

You have a damn good point there - the DeLorean does have excessively tall gears for a powerhouse of an engine. FYI I could supply the larger final drive section....

Martin




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 14:31:01 -0700
From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl_at_dml_techline.com>
Subject: RE: engine swaps and tranny questions

The weakness of the DeLorean 5 speed transmission is not really the input shaft.  Its the splined coupler that mates the shaft to the transmission main shaft.  It is made from very soft material, and is only splined in places, not all the way around.  It may have been intended as a "fuse" to fail before you break something more expensive.  Anyway, having done so on an on-ramp in 3rd gear, I decided it was time to engineer a better part.  I went to every major machine shop in the NW but only one was capable of cutting such small diameter inside splines.  The part was then heat treated to "bulletproof" on the Rockwell scale.  It presses onto the input shaft and is held onto the mainshaft by a roll pin.

I may be able to have more of these made, although the shop didn't seem very interested in doing little one-off projects like this.  Cost would be around $350+.  Let me know if seriously interested.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
www.delorean-parts.com
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 21:37:59 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Wheels

What I mean by reconditioning is send them to a wheel reconditioning 
company. They can sandblast, take out chips, whatever it takes and 
then powder coat or paint them - they are like new. I had a set done 
in Houston years ago and they still look good - except for a scrape 
on a front rim I did in my own driveway. Fortunately, I still had 
some touchup that was usable.

I saw some freshly done wheels from DMCH that were on Jon Brodi's 
car at the mid-Atlantic gathering last weekend. They looked better 
than new.

Harold McElraft - 3354

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "kenndeal" <kenndeal_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try but I don't think it will 
work. What 
> do you mean by "recondition"?  I think they need something like 
> sandblasting.
> Kenn





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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 22:08:34 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: loose bright lights

Your headlights seem to have gotten lost amid engine swaps and fuel
distributors eh?

Each sealed beam assembly is held to a bucket by aluminum frame and
four sheet metal screws. Bucket is then held to header panel by two
adjusting screws and a tension spring. Standard arrangement for any
vehicle of that vintage.

Two possibilities:
Unlikely: 
Sheet metal screws have come loose, allowing sealed beam to flop
around in bucket.
Likely: 
1) tension springs have rusted to pieces, especially the bent coil
that holds them to bucket/header, removing tension that holds
everything in place
2) tabs on plastic retainers that hold adjusting screws to header
panel have gotten old, brittle, and broken. This will actually let the
bucket fall out.

Remove aluminum frames, unplug sealed beams, and investigate. If
tension springs are DOA, can cut and bend new ones from a single long
spring (but prices from vendors are so cheap you might as well go that
route, time permitting). If tabs on adjusting screw retainers are
broken can substitute the "1/4 Inch Universal" size from "Help" brand
(red packages at parts houses). Cost much less than vendors.

Don't forget to re-aim your headlights afterwards.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> I noticed this week that my brights have come loose.
> It's like they've popped out from the adjustment bracket. I haven't been
> working on that end, only in the back, so it's nothing I've done.
> I am just now starting to get the eyebrows, but nothing serious yet. I
> should correct that before it worsens, though.
> 
> Any ideas on what made the loose headlights?
> 
> -Kevin
> #4687




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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 19:17:55 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Celebrities with Deloreans?

Wherever I drive my DeLorean I become a celebrity...Does that count? (haha)

    -Josh
    VIN 5102
    VIN 15964







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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 21:02:03 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Gas Leak (freon)

Curious, where did you find your freon leaks?

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcmike2002 [mailto:billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 1:24 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Gas Leak

I consider myself the foremost authority on leaks with this car....I
have fixed fuel leaks, coolant leaks, brake fluid leaks and freon
leaks......



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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 07:33:06 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: DeLorean model of Lee Seiler

In a message dated 5/1/03 8:36:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dominique.flandin_at_dml_wanadoo.fr writes:


> About two year ago I have 
> ordered a DeLorean model to Lee Seiler on his web site. Today, he 
> took the money and, unfortunately I don't have any model

This is known as mail fraud.  It's high time Lee refunded the money to all 
undelivered customers with interest.  No, I'm not a disgruntled customer. I 
don't even know Lee.  But I know that when you accept for money for 
merchandise, you have 30 days to either 1) ship, 2) refund, or 3) obtain 
permission in writing for a finite time extension. No exceptions.  Even 
though you're not a US resident, Lee is.  Contact the US Postal service and 
file a complaint.  He's been making excuses and ignoring e-mails for years.  
There's NO excuse for that.  

Wayne A. Ernst
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 21:57:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: AC quits working when the car stops moving?

Hi list.  I've been working on diagnosing an AC problem for a long time,
and I'm making no progress.  Since summer is arriving again here in
Houston, I really need to get this fixed or I won't be able to drive the D
until winter.  What fun is that?  :)

My AC will cool for maybe 10-15 minutes at a time, and then quits cooling
and won't cool again until it's been left off for 30 minutes or so, at
which point it'll cool again for maybe 5 minutes.  It won't get back to
being able to cool for the 10-15 minutes unless it's left off for a number
of hours.

Most interesting about this problem is that the AC always seems to fail
shortly after the car has stopped moving quickly.  If I'm cruising on the
highway, the AC seems to work for a long time (although it *will*
eventually stop), but once I get caught in traffic (where the AC is needed
most, of course!) it quits cooling.  If I hit traffic and it stops
cooling, then get moving again, it will resume cooling for a short period,
but stops again pretty quickly.

The only things that occur to me that change when I get caught in traffic
is airflow through the condenser is reduced and so is voltage throughout
the electrical system (which of course additionally reduces condenser
airflow due to lowered fan speed).  Both fans are working, however, so
this really shouldn't cause the AC to stop cooling completely.

I do not appear to be leaking refrigerant anywhere.

I'm going to spend tomorrow evening with a friend of mine who has all the
appropriate diagnostic equipment, but I figured it might help for me to go
armed with some ideas.  This is a pretty strange AC problem, and so far my
friend and I are at a loss to diagnose it.  Any tips you guys have for
things for us to look at tomorrow night would be greatly appreciated.

-andrew
 #4115
 Houston TX



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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 15:55:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?

Well, I always seem to answer my own questions shortly after I ask them.

He got started early today and looked at the AC and fairly quickly
determined that the problem is a bad clutch in the compressor.  It's
heating up and then seizing.  A good whack from a wrench makes it work for
another minute or so.

Rather than replace the whole compressor at $260, we're just going to try
replacing the clutch (which should be a much easier job anyway), at which
point I will hopefully be able to enjoy the car for the summer.

-andrew
 #4115
 Houston TX



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