From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1502
Date: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 11:21 AM

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There are 6 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: My water pump failed again, revisited.
From: "content22207" <>

2. Other uses for fuel line hose
From: "content22207" <>

3. gas pedal
From: "edherrmann" <>

4. Re: PRV Intake Question
From: "B Benson" <>

5. Re: Nasty screws and bolts
From: "twinenginedmc12" <>

6. Ceiling leaks!!
From: "John Elgersma" <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 05:08:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: My water pump failed again, revisited.

Check out Dave Swingle's pertinent article from website:

Really FYI, since he too recommends buying pump with pully already
installed. Is what you're paying a little extra for (sometimes doesn't
pay to reinvent the wheel). Fascinating procedure though, eh? When my
time comes I'm planning to let experienced installer do it as well.

Worth every penny?

Bill Robertson
>--- In, "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> Thought I'd share my experience this weekend.
> After rebuilding the engine because of a bad water pump, the darn 
> thing failed again on the first day I actually drove it anywhere 
> after the rebuild.
> When I took the failed water pump out this weekend, the pulley would 
> not rotate (and by the way, I only removed the belt, the throttle 
> barrell assembly and the intake plenum 'w pipe'). 
> I saw on a picture showing how to tell if the 
> pulley was pushed on far enough and sure enough it was out 3/4 of an 
> inch.
> When I took the back of the pump off, I found that the impeller wheel 
> had indeed been rubbing the back of the water pump case, and in fact 
> there was quite a bit of damage to both the back and the impeller 
> wheel too.


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 05:29:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Other uses for fuel line hose

I also use fuel line hose in place of traditional vacuum hose. Holds
up much better in engine compartment environment, and in applications
close to the asphalt. 

My DeLo's coolant bleed lines use fuel hose.

Important note: do not use regular fuel line hose in fuel injection
system. High PSI will break tiny bits loose and eventually clog
injectors. Is hose especially for fuel injection that looks similar
but performs differently (not fluorelastometric lined, but solid
rubber). Try to remove from a hose barb and you'll see difference.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Mark, I would use fuel line hose like 30R7, It has a lining that resist
> harsh chemicals. Any auto store should have it.
> John
> -----Original Message-----
> From: id [mailto:ionicdesign_at_dml_e...]
> Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2003 12:46 PM
> To:
> Subject: [DML] Clutch master cylinder
> The hose that goes from the fluid reservoir to the clutch master
cylinder is
> in bad
> shape on my car, what kind of hose can i use to replace it with?
> Mark
> 6683
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 11:55:09 -0000
From: "edherrmann" <>
Subject: gas pedal

Does anyone know why on the manual shift deloreans there is a bracket
on the floor board under the gas pedal. It stops the travel of the
pedal (can not push pedal to the floor) and on the automatics there
isn't one. Do all manuals have this bracket?  Thanks  ED


Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 06:56:21 -0500
From: "B Benson" <>
Subject: Re: PRV Intake Question

The length of intake rails are important in creating intake velocity. As a
rule, longer runners supply more low end power and short runners provide
more high end power. Several newer cars such as the Taurus SHO Yamaha
engines had duel intake runners with the long ones used below certain engine
speeds and the short ones coming into play for higher speed. I'd guess the
DeLorean PRV is a compromise.

Bruce Benson

> Why did PhD's at Peugeot et al find it necessary to use >intake rails
> vs conventional shaped intake manifold? > Bill >Robertson
> #5939


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 12:53:18 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <>
Subject: Re: Nasty screws and bolts

> So what's the best option now?  Cut the tray up into pieces so I can
> get to the washer pump?  Take the entire front end apart?  Drill the
> bolts and then replace them with...?  This should have been a 20
> minute job...
> Aaron
> #1506

Hi Aaron.

My car had lots of screwed up bolts.  I drilled out some, used a 
handheld rotary tool (Dremel) with the little cutoff wheels on 
others, and on a few, I used an industrial silicon carbide cutoff 
wheel in a drill chuck.

I think I drilled some of those fasteners on my car, but I can't 



Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 06:13:18 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <>
Subject: Ceiling leaks!!

After much warning not to get my car in heavy rain, the car ended up 
in heavy rain anyways. Now, with compensation to get it repaired 
because the ceiling T-panel is drooping, where is the leak coming 
from?? I will remove the panels myself this time as the upholstery 
shop did not bother checking it for leaks. I am about to fill the 
trenches of the roof (door) with massive amounts of weather caulking 
to keep the rain out of my roof panels. If anybody is asking, my car 
just came back from the movies (Spymate) and now I have to go 
through this nightmare again. I had the roof-panels recovered to 
match the leather in the car so I am hoping that I can re-enforce 
the old core-board to straighten it out. Any suggestions?? Can I wet 
it down and reshape it back to its normal position? I doubt it but I 
need to experiment a little first before I get it replaced.
Hope to hear from you.
John E. 10250
The Spymate guy


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