From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1504
Date: Thursday, May 15, 2003 1:29 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: DeLorean Engine Options.
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

2. Proper height of Delorean Spec Sheets
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

3. Re: Ceiling leaks!!_Thanks
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

4. Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. DMC open house concours competition (long)
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

6. Re: Warm-up problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. VIN#00614
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raph40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>

8. Re: Best Year?
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: Rear driver side panel alignment.
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>

10. Totaled Delorean
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

11. Re: Broken bolt
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. RE: Re: Warm-up problems
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. Re: Ceiling leaks!!
From: "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>

14. Lucas' Launchers
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

15. Performance Database???
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>

16. RE: Performance Database???
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

17. Re: Re: Broken bolt
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

18. Re: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

19. Re: Re: Broken bolt
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

20. Re: Proper height of Delorean Spec Sheets
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com

21. Re: Re: Broken bolt (leaking internal water pipe)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. RE: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
From: "cdmcali" <cdmcali_at_dml_yahoo.com>

25. RE: Re: Broken bolt
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 02:11:15 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Engine Options.

The VR6 has a transaxle.  The cylinders are lines up latitudinally.  It
would not fit in the D without moving the frame or putting the engine in
the interior of the car, where the parcel shelf used to be.  

Some of the VR6s run hot, which would not be a good match for the
Delorean cooling system.

Jim

On Tue, 13 May 2003 21:15:06 EDT Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com writes:
> Hi List,
>        Does anyone know if a VW VR6 Engine would fit in the DMC



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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 06:52:54 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Proper height of Delorean Spec Sheets

One very unappealing exterior issue is the fact that the Delorean 
looks jacked up way above the tire height and exposes a real ugly 2 
inches of wheel-well. I just measured my car and it came to 44.6 
inches in height. I checked several of my magazines and here are the 
details of spec sheet height of car:

C&D May 81  46 inches
C&D July 81 44.9 inches
Motortrend  Dec 81  51.7 inches
Popular Science March 82  44.8 inches

Who is right???
Motortrend must got the numbers incorrect as it would bring my car 
up by another six inches making it look like it would be on stilts. 
If my car was only down by two inches, it would take the car down to 
43 inches. This sounds more like the way the car was designed 
initially. Can anybody tell me the proper height of the stock car? 
45 inches is still high according to my car. I would then like to 
lower it down to 43 inches but only if it is within specs.





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 06:36:45 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: Ceiling leaks!!_Thanks

Perfect!! I always thought the the trenches were very much prone to 
water leaks in general. It does not take much to clean them and seal 
everything in black so that I will end up doing on a nice dry day.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, <eric_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> John
> 
> I was looking through my factory service bulletins the other day 
and I came
> across one that addresses water leaks. It talked about sealing the 
doorsills
> even to the point of sealing off the screws around the doorsills 
with
> silicon. I just did that this past weekend, as I had a minor leak 
I also
> wanted to get fixed.



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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 13:20:27 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)

Pull hose off spark advance diaphragm (attached to side of
distributor) and feel for vacuum at idle. If it's there, something's
wrong. Could be cut off solenoid or idle microswitch.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I hear people talk about the spark advance solenoid located by the 
> distributor...Looks like alittle flying saucer :-) Is there a way to
check to 
> see if it is bad? mine has the vaccum lines on it and the electrical
plug but 
> just wondered the failure rate and symptoms? This does not seem to
be a part 
> you would normally replace on a tune-up.
> 
> Mike C
> 2109
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 09:34:04 -0700
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: DMC open house concours competition (long)

I had the honor of participating in the concours judging at the recent DMC
open house, and I thought I would share some of my experiences and details
with the group.

 

The cars competing this time were among the finest DeLoreans I have had the
privilege of examining closely. Three cars competed for the top spot, and I
think that the total mileage of all the cars combined was probably around
1000 miles. All the cars had been meticulously prepared for the competition,
and the care and work their owners had put into them was clearly evident. In
order to help support the preparations, DMC graciously provided their
facilities and their personnel for the period prior to the competition (some
of the DMC personnel worked into the wee hours supporting the final
preparations of the cars). This concours was probably the closest
competition seen thus far with only a few deductions separating the 1st and
3rd places.

 

As is always the case, the cars are judged in 6 different categories. The
categories are:

            Operating Controls (make sure everything on the car works
correctly)

            Exterior

            Interior

            Undercarriage

            Engine Compartment

            Luggage Compartment

 

The judging criteria are based on how well the car represents the factory
delivered ideal car. Included in this is fit/finish, cleanliness,
originality, wear/tear, etc. Many aspects of our cars had variances as
delivered from the factory, so the criteria are based on how the car was
supposed to be delivered according to the best available documentation thus
far. As additional/new documentation is discovered in the archives, the
judging criteria will likely be refined. The specific criteria against which
the cars were judged are documented in the judging handbook available from
DMC - judges follow the handbook in order to ensure that the criteria and
items judged are well known to everyone beforehand.

 

In order to eliminate variations in judging from impacting the outcome, the
6 different categories are assigned to 6 different judges, and the same
category is judged by the same judge on all cars. This helps ensure
consistency and uniformity in judging across the cars.

 

I judged the luggage compartments this time around. The luggage compartment
has the fewest number of judge-able items in it, so the items that are
judged generally have substantial point allocations, and the judging for
those items reflect the heavy weight allocated to them. Each of the 6
categories carries equal weight in the overall outcome (50 pointes each) in
order to avoid the potential for inconsistencies between judges in the
different categories impacting the outcome.

 

There were several common items that I encountered with the cars that you
might be interested in if you are preparing a car and want to watch for
common gotchas:

- The carpet in the bottom of the trunk received several deductions. It
appears that perhaps the plastic edging around the perimeter of the carpet
has shrunk with age resulting in the corners of the carpet curling under and
causing a bubble/pouch in the carpet corners. This prevents the carpet from
laying flat in the corners. This was a common issue and as a result everyone
was generally equally impacted by it, and it therefore had little impact on
the outcome

- One of the screws securing the plastic cover over the hood latch causes
the corners of the hood latch cover to deform and stick out strangely rather
than laying flat. This seems like a natural artifact of the plastic
deforming when the screw is tightened, and again this equally impacted
everyone. I'm not sure that this is due to over tightening or whether it is
a result of a shortcoming in the way it is mounted.

- Fasteners in the luggage compartment (especially the philips headed screws
for the access panels) were in a couple cases not pristine. The philips
headed screws generally get marred anytime you remove and re-tighten them
resulting in the star in them getting rounded. Since these screws are so
inexpensive, marred or rounded screws can readily be swapped with pristine
ones.

- The spare tire should be properly inflated to 60psi. This should not only
be the case for a concours car, but for any car that is driven since you
never know when you might need to limp home on a spare. You'd hate for it to
be flat when you really needed it.

- The carpet on the underside of the hood seemed to often have bubbles or
other voids in adhesion that resulted in it not lying flat against the hood.
This could be a result of the adhesion being lost in some places where the
glue is applied thinly, especially where the car may have been parked in the
sun where high hood temperatures might soften the adhesive. With the hood
closed, gravity is working against you.

- The rubber seal around the hood often had excessive adhesive used in
applying it resulting in a lot of visible goo around the edges of the seal
and visible adhesive stringers stretched across the glue line of the seal.

 

After sharing a few of these items, you might get the impression that these
cars are very closely inspected - I would hope that is indeed the case since
the purpose was to be able to differentiate between the three extremely well
prepared cars. Even so, this was the first time where a participant
approached me requesting that the judging be even more meticulous than it
was.

 

It was a pleasure to get to closely inspect the fine cars competing in the
concours and my congratulations to the three competitors for their exemplary
cars. These cars were among the finest I have had the pleasure of reviewing.

 

                        Knut

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 14:53:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Warm-up problems

The problem isn't so much the failure of the solenoid valve as much as
hooking it up incorrectly or knocking the plug or the hoses off when
working in that area. Very easy to check with a timing light. While
checking the vacuum advance you should also (just because you are
already hooked up) check the mechanical advance and the timing.
Symptoms of a problem in the advance would be a noticeable lack of
power, bad idle, low gas mileage, and knocking under load.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I hear people talk about the spark advance solenoid located by the 
> distributor...Looks like alittle flying saucer :-) Is there a way to
check to 
> see if it is bad? mine has the vaccum lines on it and the electrical
plug but 
> just wondered the failure rate and symptoms? This does not seem to
be a part 
> you would normally replace on a tune-up.
> 
> Mike C
> 2109
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 15:44:40 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raph40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr>
Subject: VIN#00614

Hello list
There's an interesting collector on ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=31830&item=2415316101
 
Raph


MODERATOR ADDITION - go to ebay and cut/paste
 2415316101
 



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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 17:28:06 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Best Year?

If I had the funds & space, personally, I would like one of each.  The best 
of all years.   (Kinda like having a '55, '56, & '57  T-Bird)       -Sigh-   
We can but dream.     Drive Stainless  (Which ever you choose)        Robert 
    VIN 6924      Sp Tag  AgBULIT


From: "powermikeintoshg3" <powermikeintoshg3_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Reply-To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Best Year?
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 02:08:46 -0000

If I were to purchase a DeLorean, what would be the ideal year to get? 81, 
82,
or 83?



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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 10:58:40 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12_at_dml_gendreaumicro.com>
Subject: Re: Rear driver side panel alignment.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
>     I have no real understanding how the panels are
> attached to the car.  I did notice however that the
> driver rear side panel that connect to the T shaped
> panel on top is slightly out.  I can also see that on
> both sides that where it meets the rear vinil/plastic
> cover ytou can see it bulge out just a little.
> 
>     Anyone know how to attempt to fix this.
> 
> 
> thanx
> 
> jordan

Hi Jordan.

The rear panels are attached with about 20 screws.  On the front 
edge, the fender is screwed to plastic filler panels; on the rear 
edge, it's screwed to a metal bracket.
By loosening the front screws(after removing the weatherstripping at 
the door), you'll be able to move the fender around a little, not 
much, to adjust the gap between the fender and the top panel.

Adjusting the bulge in the rear is a little more involved.  
I suspect that the fascias shrink a little (0.4%) over the decades, 
causing bad fit on some cars over time.  My car had this bad fit.
To adjust for this shrinkage, I took off the rear fascia 
(surprisingly painful, emotionally, if your bolts are rusty), then 
shifted the metal brackets which hold the fascia to the underbody 
inward about 1/8 inch (on your car, you'd want to make an estimate of 
how much adjustment would get rid of the buldging at your fascia)

If you're mechanically inclined, you'll probably have fun.  

Rick.






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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 08:07:28 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Totaled Delorean

I Posted a pic in the Files section,of a old pic of a Delorean parts 
car that I Bought back in 1982,to Restore another Delorean back then.

The Link is:
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cOnBPmSu96KNZyPmQs5qmM6SQbvJVclQZZClfBLrV
iksjFCGwm7HUVyJObVgfZvnCgi27yKOXqMEacPi5haDV8Y4fGM/totaled%
20delorean.jpg
Copy and paste to your address bar. 

Claude
00570




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 13:41:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Broken bolt

I wonder if this would be a good time to change bolts to 8mm (can you
even get 7mm Helicoils)? Would dramatically increase fastener options.
BTW: metric Helicoils probably have to be mail ordered. Could convert
to 5/16" from any parts house if you don't mind mongrelizing car.

Only one time in my life have I drilled straight through a bolt.
Didn't even have to re-tap hole. Only one time. Every other time have
been off center enough to Helicoil or tap to next larger size.

Once you get a threaded hole, another option would be converting bolt
to stud and a nut. Am seriously considering taking my intake manifold
off AGAIN to do that while my own internal water pipe bolts not
frozen. Have found source of stainless steel 7mm drill rod and nuts.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The "standard" technique is to very accuratly centerpunch the broken
> off piece of bolt "dead center". Next is to drill into the bolt with a
> size drill smaller than the root diameter of the bolt. Next you insert



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 09:11:42 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Warm-up problems

Mike, To check to see if the Vacuum solenoid is working ok, Put your hand or
fingers on it while your reving up the engine a little and you will feel and
may hear the clicking inside it. If you do then the solenoid is opening and
closing as you engage and dis engage the idle speed micro switch. Very
seldom do they go out. I have never replaced one.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 7:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Warm-up problems


I hear people talk about the spark advance solenoid located by the
distributor...Looks like alittle flying saucer :-) Is there a way to check
to
see if it is bad? mine has the vaccum lines on it and the electrical plug
but
just wondered the failure rate and symptoms? This does not seem to be a part
you would normally replace on a tune-up.

Mike C
2109



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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 11:38:58 -0400
From: "Jason Jones" <jason_at_dml_pcupgraders.com>
Subject: Re: Ceiling leaks!!

I just when though this with mine...  easy fix  The weather seal around the
top of the glass is old and I bet you have a 1/8 gap between your windshield
and the frame.  Just take of the Top T-Panel...  easy and then unscrew the
Black shield that covers the top of the windshield then the galvanized trim
holder and then you will probably see the gap.. just put in new fresh bead
of Window caulking and your done.  Take about 30 Min to do everything

Good luck... now if I can find out where my door is leaking I will be fine
:)

Jason




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 16:00:42 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Lucas' Launchers

Thanks go out to Peter Lucas and his launcher schematic.  I designed and 
built several variations of electronics so that I could use the existing 
wires.  Each one failed to perform well.  Yesterday I took out the 
headliners, which needed to be recovered anyway, hoping to ge to the wiring 
harness in the roof.  Of course as all of you experienced D owners know, you 
can't get them from inside.  Well now I know also.  So today I took off the T 
roof panel and low and behold there were the wires.  I wired up a version of 
Peter's relay logic circuit and I now belong to the unofficial DMC Launch 
Club.  It was not the most tedious project but definitely NOT plug and play.  
Despite my original intention to make a "solid state" system, the relays are 
simple, inexpensive,  and they work.  One question I had was whether there is 
a real need for the relay that prevents a launch when the doors are locked.  
Trying to launch with the doors when locked is just like trying to open the 
doors when your in the car and forgot to unlock them first.  They don't open! 
 Does this do any damage?  While in the doors and working with the ywllow 
wire with the whit stripe, I noted each door has 2 of the connected to a 
terminal.  Only one seems to go to the wire up in the roof.  Does anyone know 
where the other one from each side goes to?  Now that I have done it and it's 
fresh in my mind, if anyone has questions don't hesitate to ask.

Dave
6530 (ready for launch!)

ps Are there any thing I should do while I have the doors, headlines and T 
panel off???


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 18:50:23 -0400
From: <ken_at_dml_odoc.ca>
Subject: Performance Database???

I would glady make a page on www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/>  (Ontario
DeLorean Owners Club) for all performance mods
 
Feel free to email me privately at ken_at_dml_odoc.ca with links and any
information concerning the performance mods
 
I would be glad to put them online
 
-Ken
005541
ken_at_dml_odoc.ca
www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/> 
 
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 18:27:20 -0400
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: RE: Performance Database???

If everyone wants to start sending me links, go right ahead! I'll put
them up as time allows.

-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Webmaster, http://www.88-mph.com
 
-----Original Message-----
From: spaceace3113 [mailto:spaceace3113_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 8:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Performance Database???

I think it might be a great idea if some of the more computer 
friendly guys on the list tried to put together a series of links to 
the various shops that offer performance mods to the Delorean 



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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 15:20:08 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Broken bolt

To all that helped me with my broken bolts i have removed them with no problem. I soaked
them with dura-lube spray for 3 days, then drilled a hole in them and used a easy out
and they came out with no effort at all like they were loose to begin with.

Here is a good tip... use a magnet to pick up all of the drill shavings before you use
your hands to pick up the debris in the valleys under the intake, this will keep you
from getting metal slivers (dont ask how i know this).

I would have never removed the water pipe under the intake manifold but both sides of
the pipe were leaking other wise i would have left it alone. So leave the pipe under the
manifold alone if its not leaking and if it is leaking hope you dont break the bolts or
if you do hope they come out as easy as mine did.

Funny thing is that all of the water pump bolts came out easy with no problems.

Thank you to everyone that helped me.

Mark
6683

David Teitelbaum wrote:

> The "standard" technique is to very accuratly centerpunch the broken
> off piece of bolt "dead center". Next is to drill into the bolt with a
> size drill smaller than the root diameter of the bolt. Next you insert
> a removal tool to unscrew the bolt. If that is unsuccessful then you
> drill out the bolt to the next size and use a threaded insert to bring
> the hole back to the origional thread size. Remember that all of the
> fasteners are metric. The most important step is to drill in the
> center and to drill straight. It is very easy to get off center and
> drill into the softer aluminum instead of the steel of the bolt. The
> other BIG problem is to break either the drill or the removal tool in
> the bolt. Heat always helps so if you have a torch now is the time to
> use it. This is usually beyond the skills of a novice mechanic so if
> you don't have a lot of experience doing this you might want to try
> and get some help. Use sharp, new drill bits and go slowly and
> carefully. Spend the big bucks and get the best set of extracters you
> can find. You should also get some taps and threaded inserts. Use
> cutting fluid when drilling. Prayers also sometimes help but that is
> best used BEFORE you break the bolts!!!!! 



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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 21:00:15 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)

Now you've got me hooked, I've always struggled to get an idle I'm happy
with, and have settled for 1000rpm after trying many different options.

Whilst playing and adjusting last weekend I was checking all my vacuum
connection and definitely remember that there was strong suction on the
vacuum advance pipe when I disconnected it. car was running sat on the
drive!

What are all the possibilities this could be and will it solve my
problems???

Cheers

Paul
#6463
http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk

----- Original Message -----
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 2:20 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)


> Pull hose off spark advance diaphragm (attached to side of
> distributor) and feel for vacuum at idle. If it's there, something's
> wrong. Could be cut off solenoid or idle microswitch.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > I hear people talk about the spark advance solenoid located by the
> > distributor...Looks like alittle flying saucer :-) Is there a way to
> check to
> > see if it is bad? mine has the vaccum lines on it and the electrical
> plug but
> > just wondered the failure rate and symptoms? This does not seem to
> be a part
> > you would normally replace on a tune-up.



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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 00:52:25 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Broken bolt

7mm helicoils are available, I've used them before.  You need to 
take some care in increasing the size of bolt holes, particularly
around water jackets.

--
Mike
> I wonder if this would be a good time to change bolts to 8mm (can you
> even get 7mm Helicoils)? Would dramatically increase fastener options.
> BTW: metric Helicoils probably have to be mail ordered. Could convert
> to 5/16" from any parts house if you don't mind mongrelizing car.
> 
> Only one time in my life have I drilled straight through a bolt.
> Didn't even have to re-tap hole. Only one time. Every other time have
> been off center enough to Helicoil or tap to next larger size.
> 
> Once you get a threaded hole, another option would be converting bolt
> to stud and a nut. Am seriously considering taking my intake manifold
> off AGAIN to do that while my own internal water pipe bolts not
> frozen. Have found source of stainless steel 7mm drill rod and nuts.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939



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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 20:43:20 EDT
From: BondAtomic_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Proper height of Delorean Spec Sheets

I'm pretty sure the real spec that DeLorean Motor Company came up with is 
44.88 inches. 

John
4275


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 01:04:15 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Broken bolt (leaking internal water pipe)

The reason bolts broke was BECAUSE internal water pipe leaked. In the
presence of moisture, steel and aluminum weld themselves together. A
real catch-22, eh? If the pipe's leaking, you've got to remove the
bolts. But if the pipe's leaking, is good chance the bolts will break. 

As much as I don't want to do it, decided tonight I am going to take
intake manifold off AGAIN and replace my bolts with stainless steel
studs and nuts before same happens to me. Will replace water pump
mounting bolts too. A little inconvenience now may be appreciated in
the future...

Anyone want to buy some of my left over drill rod and nuts?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> To all that helped me with my broken bolts i have removed them with
no problem. I soaked
> them with dura-lube spray for 3 days, then drilled a hole in them
and used a easy out
> and they came out with no effort at all like they were loose to
begin with.
> 
> Here is a good tip... use a magnet to pick up all of the drill
shavings before you use
> your hands to pick up the debris in the valleys under the intake,
this will keep you
> from getting metal slivers (dont ask how i know this).
> 



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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 00:56:01 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)

You definitely do not want full vacuum to spark advance at idle. Made
that mistake when hunting a nipple to plug mine into at purchase (my
re-engine has no cut off solenoid, or any other vestiges of factory
vacuum system). What I thought was timed vacuum turned out to be full
vacuum. Advanced ever living daylights out of ignition. Only way to
get a decent idle was to over enrich fuel mixture. Percolated fine in
the driveway, but killed performance and economy as soon as car
driven. Ultimately added a nipple BEFORE throttle plates (you can see
it in #5939's photo album -- is the 3/16" hose routed drivers side of
air sensor plate before aux air valve, now routed passenger side).
Works excellent. No advance until throttle plates open.

BTW: notice spark advance is fuel line hose, and aux air valve is
extra beefy transmission hose (won't collapse under vacuum).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_b...>
wrote:
> Now you've got me hooked, I've always struggled to get an idle I'm happy
> with, and have settled for 1000rpm after trying many different options.
> 
> Whilst playing and adjusting last weekend I was checking all my vacuum
> connection and definitely remember that there was strong suction on the
> vacuum advance pipe when I disconnected it. car was running sat on the
> drive!
> 
> What are all the possibilities this could be and will it solve my
> problems???
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Paul
> #6463
> http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 2:20 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)
> 
> 
> > Pull hose off spark advance diaphragm (attached to side of
> > distributor) and feel for vacuum at idle. If it's there, something's
> > wrong. Could be cut off solenoid or idle microswitch.
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> >
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > > I hear people talk about the spark advance solenoid located by the
> > > distributor...Looks like alittle flying saucer :-) Is there a way to
> > check to
> > > see if it is bad? mine has the vaccum lines on it and the electrical
> > plug but
> > > just wondered the failure rate and symptoms? This does not seem to
> > be a part
> > > you would normally replace on a tune-up.




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 22:38:24 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)

Paul, There is nothing wrong with 1000 RPM's at idle. But if you would like
to see it go lower just to have to bring it back up again. You can play with
the two screws on the throttle body lever. Back the lower screw out as if
you were taking the idle down to 500 let's say. Then as your going down the
top screw for the micro switch might be keeping the idle from going down
further. If it is then back it out also as to let the idle go down. If the
idle doesn't change much, then leave the screws adjusted down or out and
note where the idle is and then look around for the loose vacuum hose or
what ever might be causing the problem. When you find it,the screws are set
to let the vacuum go down. Fix the problem if it's the hoses and then re
adjust the screws to the idle speed you desire.While your looking, be sure
to tap on the idle speed motor and try to make sure the valve in it is
working.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Salsbury [mailto:paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 1:00 PM
To: doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com; DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com;
dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Warm-up problems (spark advance solenoid)


Now you've got me hooked, I've always struggled to get an idle I'm happy
with, and have settled for 1000rpm after trying many different options.

Whilst playing and adjusting last weekend I was checking all my vacuum
connection and definitely remember that there was strong suction on the
vacuum advance pipe when I disconnected it. car was running sat on the
drive!



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 03:37:51 -0000
From: "cdmcali" <cdmcali_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please

ok everybody ready here we go. my car overheated a while ago and 
haven't had time to work on it until now. I have drained the system 
and added new coolant and a new otterstat switch thinking that my 
fans were not working( when the car overheated I forgot to check to 
see if the fans were on). I started the car and the temp guage went 
almost up to the 220 mark rapidly and the fans never came on so I 
shut off the car and let it sit. I bypassed the otterstat switch so 
the fans would run continuously and started it up. now the temp guage 
stays right at the second line(the one above 100) but it seems that 
the engine is still getting hotter. I am afraid to find out if is 
getting hotter and the temp guage just isn't working. I am not sure 
if I bleed the system right or if I am sucking in air. I have read 
all the ways to bleed the system but keep getting things confused. I 
am also not sure why my fans aren't coming on when they are supposed 
to. any help with this would be more than helpful.   Thank you 
cdmcali (4626) 




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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 23:05:13 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Broken bolt

Bill and group, I have a page full of metric hardware and stock several
popular 7mm bolts and nut. If it's a metric from Germany where most are
made, I have access to it.
You can down load the pages.
John



-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 6:42 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Broken bolt


I wonder if this would be a good time to change bolts to 8mm (can you
even get 7mm Helicoils)? Would dramatically increase fastener options.
BTW: metric Helicoils probably have to be mail ordered. Could convert
to 5/16" from any parts house if you don't mind mongrelizing car.

Only one time in my life have I drilled straight through a bolt.
Didn't even have to re-tap hole. Only one time. Every other time have
been off center enough to Helicoil or tap to next larger size.

Once you get a threaded hole, another option would be converting bolt
to stud and a nut. Am seriously considering taking my intake manifold
off AGAIN to do that while my own internal water pipe bolts not
frozen. Have found source of stainless steel 7mm drill rod and nuts.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The "standard" technique is to very accuratly centerpunch the broken
> off piece of bolt "dead center". Next is to drill into the bolt with a
> size drill smaller than the root diameter of the bolt. Next you insert



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