From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1506
Date: Friday, May 16, 2003 1:54 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Emergency brake slips!!
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

3. Fw: important hotel booking notice for Canada show
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>

4. Angle-torqueing
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. K&N Air Filter_Which one?
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

6. Stainless steel studs in aluminum block
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. 3 sensors
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

8. Re: K&N Air Filter_Which one?
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>

9. RE: Door strut strength?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

10. RE: Front rotor... cross reference?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. O-rings
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

12. Alternator or clutch, please help me out.
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. GEICO Insurance: Finally Covered
From: "billgrah5" <bill_at_dml_billgraham.net>

14. Roof seal replacement
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

15. No Fuel after distributor
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

16. right side light gremlin(s)
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: DeLorean Engine Options.
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

18. Re: Angle-torqueing
From: "peters_pa" <peters_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. Re: K&N Air Filter_Which one?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

20. RE: Front rotor... cross reference?
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>

21. Re: Emergency brake slips!!
From: "peters_pa" <peters_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. RE: Front rotor... cross reference?
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 14:28:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please

With the motor running remove the pressure cap before it gets hot.
Look inside and you should see the coolant moving. If it is, bleeding
isn't the problem. The fans should come on when the otterstadt switch
gets hot enough, if it doesn't it is bad. If you have the old style
pipe with the switch on top replace it with the newer version with the
switch on the bottom. If the engine was overheated enough you may have
damaged the head gaskets, one symptom is overheating and another is
the passing of combustion gasses into the cooling system so you can
never completly bleed the air out as it is constantly getting more.
Can be confirmed by putting a coolant pressure tester on the car and
watching the pressure rise. Check the dipstick and the breather for
any sign of moisture. A compression test may also be needed to confirm
at the least pull the spark plugs and examine them. If the engine was
severly overheated the oil and filter should also be changed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cdmcali" <cdmcali_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> ok everybody ready here we go. my car overheated a while ago and 
> haven't had time to work on it until now. I have drained the system 
> and added new coolant and a new otterstat switch thinking that my 
> fans were not working( when the car overheated I forgot to check to 
> see if the fans were on). I started the car and the temp guage went 
> almost up to the 220 mark rapidly and the fans never came on so I 
> shut off the car and let it sit. I bypassed the otterstat switch so 
> the fans would run continuously and started it up. now the temp guage 
> stays right at the second line(the one above 100) but it seems that 
> the engine is still getting hotter. I am afraid to find out if is 
> getting hotter and the temp guage just isn't working. I am not sure 
> if I bleed the system right or if I am sucking in air. I have read 
> all the ways to bleed the system but keep getting things confused. I 
> am also not sure why my fans aren't coming on when they are supposed 
> to. any help with this would be more than helpful.   Thank you 
> cdmcali (4626)




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:32:01 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Emergency brake slips!!

I put new pads and cables on my emergency brake. I have noticed that 
when the pads are installed and the hand brake is applied, the pads 
actually contact the rotor at an angle thus not making proper 
contact for firm brake pressure. I might just need to readjust as 
right now I pull up quite a ways and the car still tends to roll a 
little on my driveway. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks
John E.





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 14:06:39 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com>
Subject: Fw: important hotel booking notice for Canada show




Re: DeLorean meet June 14 in London, Ontario.

"The hotel of choice"----Best Western Lamplighter Inn, London, Ontario, has just informed me that they are holding rooms until 
May 19 / 03 only. 
The smart ones have already booked!
Please be advised this is a neat place to stay for a reasonable USA dollar. 
Their web address is: www.lamplighterinn.ca  
The toll free phone # is: 1-888-232-6747
Looks like a party is coming together & a fun time will be had by all!!
This is like having a baby!!!

Marv.
# 17707

Please note the beard is gone, and a "little" weight has been added since this photo!

      your host - Marvin Stein




      924 Dundas Street
      London, Ontario N5W 3A1 
      tel  (519) 434-1666 off.  

      fax:  (519) 434-7071

      cell:(519) 852-1666\

      res: (519) 438-7174

      marv_at_dml_printeddrinkware.com   
     
     

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:45:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Angle-torqueing

A review of the head-gasket tightening procedures tells me to pre-
tighten the head bolts to 15 lbs, then to 45 lbs in the pattern 
specified, then to use a torque wrench with an inclineometer dial-
like doo-dad on it and rotate the wrench 115 degrees to achieve the 
proper tightness and gasket compression.

I understand the directions perfectly but I have never heard of this 
procedure before and I have never seen an angle-torque wrench. Is 
this an attachment you can put on your foot/lbs. torque wrench, or is 
it strictly a seperate item? I haven't seen it at Sears. Does 
everyone do it this way or has someone figured out how many foot lbs 
115 degrees equates to? I know how important it is to do this part 
correctly and I don't want to screw it up. Thanks.

Rich
#5335 -MD




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 20:22:13 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: K&N Air Filter_Which one?

I searched and searched for a part# for the K&N air filter and have 
not come up with anything. I had a number listed that started with 
NM33 but my autoparts dealer did not show it in the books.
Any suggestions or part# that makes more sense for me to use??





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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:06:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Stainless steel studs in aluminum block

Yes, that's what I said: stainless nuts on stainless studs. Don't
really care if studs get stuck in block. I just want nuts to turn on
studs. If stainless gets stuck on stainless, I've got bigger problems
than leaking O rings...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, elvisnocita_at_dml_g... wrote:
> Bill, this sounds to be a really great idea to put SS bolts into
aluminum.
> 
> They will freeze together even faster without the leaking pipe than the
> original bolts with coolant around it.
> 
> Maybe with studs and nuts it will be ok, but SS combined with any other
> metals
> is always a bad solution.
> 
> When I replaced those bolts last year I used Mike Sander's anti rust
grease.
> The same stuff that I put on the frame. Great stuff. Even after
years there
> won't be 
> a problem to get out those bolts again.
> 
> Elvis & 6548
> 
> 



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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 20:52:37 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: 3 sensors

There are 3 sensors attached to the water pipe under the intake and before i put the
engine back together i want to make sure these sensors are operating correctly so how do
i test each sensor to make sure it is operating correctly?

I have a new vacuum sensor so i just need to know how to test the other 2 electric
sensors.

Mark
6683




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 02:14:23 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: K&N Air Filter_Which one?

I saw the K&N Filter listed on a Delorean site as part #33-2002
Here is the link...don't know if it will be of any help, but....
http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/k-n.html

Michael 
Vin#2944


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I searched and searched for a part# for the K&N air filter and have 
> not come up with anything. I had a number listed that started with 
> NM33 but my autoparts dealer did not show it in the books.
> Any suggestions or part# that makes more sense for me to use??




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:50:29 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Door strut strength?

James, 1200.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: jamesrguk [mailto:James_rg_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 9:14 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door strut strength?


Hi,

Does anyone know the strength in Newton Meters of the door struts
used on the DeLorean?


Thanks



James RG UK



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:56:44 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Front rotor... cross reference?

Travis, I said I couldn't break the set right now. I'm checking my sources
for rotors and at this time my sources have none in the U.S. As soon as I
source them I will be happy to make extra for the front. I just don't have
any extra at this time.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 5:48 AM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Subject: [DML] Front rotor... cross reference?


I got a call from John Hervey and he said he couldn't sell me the
cross-drilled PowerStop rotors unless they are a complete set. All I need
(and can afford at the moment) are the fronts.

Has anyone put on the PowerStops? Anyone got a part number or cross
reference?




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 17:49:53 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: O-rings

When i re install my intake do i have to watch out for the o-rings slipping out or do
they stay in the groves good enough not to worry?

Mark
6683




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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 23:20:11 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: Alternator or clutch, please help me out.

I am trying to find out suggestions and maybe some help to my problem.
Here is the situation. While driving my DeLorean today, I noticed that
only in 3-5 gears and hard acceleration the clutch felt like it was
slipping, so naturally I thought okay, my clutch is almost bad with
near 60K on it (as far as I know, but the previous owner claimed he
purchased and installed a new pressure plate 10-20K previously). Okay,
park the car, change to get ready to take the transmission out, and
the car would not start. Turn the key to start - the engine wouldn't
even crank. I hooked up a jumper battery and the engine slowly turned
to a start. The battery light was dim but glowing on the dash. When
trying to accelerate the engine, it accelerated slowly and badly unit
I hit 6 thousand R.P.M.s, the light goes out, the engine idles fine,
and the acceleration back to normal. I took it on the road and I felt
the engine not accelerating as good again and noticed the light back
on dimming. The question, is the clutch suspected to be bad and the
light is just another problem, or is it that my alternator is dead but
running whenever it feels, and the engine couldn't produce enough
power and sucked the battery dry to keep going hence the slipping
feeling with the throttle full open. Also for further information, my
gauge said it was running a bit higher then 8 volts, and when the
problems went away after I hit 6 grand, it went to 10 volts. Whenever
I have just they key on and not trying to start, the battery light
does come on, which I never noticed until I did the frame work and
re-installed the frame. The car never runs 12 or 13 volts (according
to the gauge), more around 10. I am off to do some electrical voltage
testing and see what is going on. But the question about the clutch
still stands. Thank you all for your time and help.




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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 22:54:10 -0000
From: "billgrah5" <bill_at_dml_billgraham.net>
Subject: GEICO Insurance: Finally Covered

GEICO finally insured my DeLorean with full coverage ($500 ded comp & 
coll), without mileage restrictions.  FYI:  I am in Florida, covered 
under their "ultra preferred class", and the increase will cost 
157.79 per six months.  This is a second car on my policy.  They told 
me that they will only pay out "market value" of the DeLorean.  They 
will use NADA.  

Hope this helps anyone having problems insuring their DeLorean.  I 
understand that insurance varies from state-to-state, even with 
GEICO.  Good luck!

Bill Graham
vin 6298
CCIE #7258




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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 01:18:15 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Roof seal replacement

I just got myself a new seal for the driver's side roof but here is 
the problem I can not solve. The stainless plate that holds the seal 
in place is riveted with 8 rivets. Got those ordered as well. (I am 
all set for the challenge now).
Drilling them rivets out of the roof was already discussed a few 
weeks ago and for those that replied, Thanks!! I figure I could just 
gently slide the plate in place but with the door hinges there, I 
can not see a solution. Maybe something that the club can tackle at 
a tech session this summer? I will see for now but any suggestions 
appreciated! Till soon.
Bye
JohnE.





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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 21:48:53 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: No Fuel after distributor

Hi,   
       I am working on a DeLorean for a friend but have run into a problem.  
It quit running in the early 90's and hasn't moved since.  I replaced all of 
the fuel system parts.  Everything in tank (except pump) & accumulator/lines &
 filter & all intake/water pump hoses.  His distributor was dirty so he 
bought a new one from John Hervey.  
       I get fuel pressure where the main line connects to the distributor 
but when the air induction plate is depressed I get NO flow to the injectors 
(injectors are NEW)  I have not touched the 02 adjustment as it is still 
plugged)  Just for fun I installed my working distributor on the car and 
still had no flow to the injectors so I can rule the distributor out. I am 
guessing this is a fuel pressure problem.
       What are some things I should look for? Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.  The car is a late 82 and has the newer style fuel pump but does 
look pretty old. 

Thank You

Dave,
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 00:09:45 EDT
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: right side light gremlin(s)

Okay....this car really wants my attention....I turned my lights on tonight 
and noticed i had no dash lights!....i read some backposts and saw that the 
rheostat may be the culprit but it has worked ever since i had the car and i 
cant imagine it just stopped. Next I Iook and my right rear license plate 
light is out, and my right rear back light, and my right side marker light, 
and my right front marker light.....the whole right side of my car is 
dark....but wait...my hazard lights are out too. Tried the brakes and they 
both work, all turn signals work....i looked on the schematic and the only i 
can see is that all right lights meet at a connection but i cant tell 
where...

has anyone ever lost the left or right side of their lights????

Me and a friend replaced the steeriing column bushing and were careful 
putting it back in. ANy chance we disconnected something under the dash? I 
have been tinkering in the relay and engine area cleaning up stuff but i am 
very careful and would know if i disconnected a harness....

This car can make you lose all pride as just when you fix 10 things it will 
humble you with something else....:-)

Mike C
2109 

 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 04:11:47 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Engine Options.

If the VR6 designed such that it can only be transversly placed in 
the engine bay, then Jim is correct in saying that serious 
modifications would be required to install the VR6 into a DeLorean.  
If you would like to consider another engine with similar 
specifications and manufactured by the same automotive group of 
Audi/Porsche/VW, then I suggest the engine from the Audi A4 3.0.  
This engine is longitudinally placed in the engine bay and with the 
correct adaptor should mate quite well to the Renault R30 
transmission.  The engine specs (www.audiusa.com) are:

Aluminum 3.0 liter V6 with variable intake manifold, DOHC with 5 
valves per cylinder, continuous camshaft adjustment and hydraulic 
lifters
Displacement: 3.0 liters (182 cu. in.)
Bore: 3.25 in. 
Stroke: 3.65 in. 
Compression ratio: 10.1:1 
Horsepower (SAE net): 220 _at_dml_ 6300 rpm
Torque: 221 lb/ft _at_dml_ 3200 rpm

In a previous post I mentioned Unicap Transmission Adaptors
(http://www.pnc.com.au/~bill/Transmission.html).  According to their 
web site they make transmission adaptors for "RENO:VOLVO: ALLOY V6, 
P.R.V" engine (and other engines) as well as various Porsche and VW 
transmissions.  If they are familiar with the PRV6 engine and Porsche 
transmissions, then it is probably a safe assumption that they can 
make an adaptor that will mate the Audi 3.0 engine with the Renault 
R30 transmission.

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
Member of the Board of Directors - American Hydrogen Association 
(www.clean-air.org)
Member - Arizona DeLorean Club (www.az-d.org)
captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...> 
wrote:
> The VR6 has a transaxle.  The cylinders are lines up 
latitudinally.  It
> would not fit in the D without moving the frame or putting the 
engine in
> the interior of the car, where the parcel shelf used to be.  
> 
> Some of the VR6s run hot, which would not be a good match for the
> Delorean cooling system.
> 
> Jim
> 
> On Tue, 13 May 2003 21:15:06 EDT Delorean17_at_dml_a... writes:
> > Hi List,
> >        Does anyone know if a VW VR6 Engine would fit in the DMC




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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 00:12:25 -0000
From: "peters_pa" <peters_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Angle-torqueing

Snap On sells one P/N TA360 for about $62.  It is an add on between a
ratchet and the socket.  Some feel this is more accurate than a torque
setting.

Peter Shimkus
7195



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> A review of the head-gasket tightening procedures tells me to pre-
> tighten the head bolts to 15 lbs, then to 45 lbs in the pattern 
> specified, then to use a torque wrench with an inclineometer dial-
> like doo-dad on it and rotate the wrench 115 degrees to achieve the 
> proper tightness and gasket compression.
> 
> I understand the directions perfectly but I have never heard of this 
> procedure before and I have never seen an angle-torque wrench. Is 
> this an attachment you can put on your foot/lbs. torque wrench, or is 
> it strictly a seperate item? I haven't seen it at Sears. Does 
> everyone do it this way or has someone figured out how many foot lbs 
> 115 degrees equates to? I know how important it is to do this part 
> correctly and I don't want to screw it up. Thanks.
> 
> Rich
> #5335 -MD




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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 23:43:41 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: K&N Air Filter_Which one?

There is no drop in K&N filter for the D. You need to flip a filter upside
down and use some special clips to hold it in place so you don't get air
leaks (leaks mean dirt in your engine).

Marty Maier has been making clips for this. The page below has details and
gives the part number for the filter to use:
http://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/k-n.html

I've been running this setup for a couple of years and it works great!

Mark Noeltner
Webmaster: Mid-State DeLorean Club
VIN 6820

At 08:22 PM 5/15/2003 -0000, you wrote:
>I searched and searched for a part# for the K&N air filter and have 
>not come up with anything. I had a number listed that started with 
>NM33 but my autoparts dealer did not show it in the books.
>Any suggestions or part# that makes more sense for me to use??
>
>



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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 01:56:50 -0700
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: RE: Front rotor... cross reference?

John,

I also looked everywhere possible in the US but seems that anything to
do with front rotors and calipers is located either in the UK or
Australia????  Hmmmmm....Anyways, I still think that someone should
check this out and see if we can use it! 

http://www.godspeedbrakes.fsnet.co.uk/4_pot_conversions/capri_cort/capri
_cort.htm

Basically, as far as I got with my research is that the calipers and
rotors are from Ford Cortina ( never seen the car) and when you look at
the calipers and rotors on this site they look exactly like the ones on
the D. The problem is that the guy wont respond! Maybe someone in the UH
could possibly get in touch with this company?
So John, since we are running out of options here maybe with your
authority in the D world and heavy pull and a little luck, could
possibly research this option? 
I mean, why not upgrade the front brakes from 2 pot to four pot, have
nice thick vented rotors and cross drilled. I bet you could shortened
that breaking distance at least 25% ?

Thnx for considering and if anyone has a 2 cents to add, lets hear it...

Ski 4649

-----Original Message-----
From: John Hervey [mailto:john_at_dml_specialtauto.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 7:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Front rotor... cross reference?


Travis, I said I couldn't break the set right now. I'm checking my
sources for rotors and at this time my sources have none in the U.S. As
soon as I source them I will be happy to make extra for the front. I
just don't have any extra at this time. John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 5:48 AM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Subject: [DML] Front rotor... cross reference?


I got a call from John Hervey and he said he couldn't sell me the
cross-drilled PowerStop rotors unless they are a complete set. All I
need (and can afford at the moment) are the fronts.

Has anyone put on the PowerStops? Anyone got a part number or cross
reference?



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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 13:20:14 -0000
From: "peters_pa" <peters_pa_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Emergency brake slips!!

Are you sure you are adjusting them correctly?  Here are some good
instructions:  

http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=deloreanmidatlantic  

Peter S
7195

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> I put new pads and cables on my emergency brake. I have noticed that 
> when the pads are installed and the hand brake is applied, the pads 
> actually contact the rotor at an angle thus not making proper 
> contact for firm brake pressure. I might just need to readjust as 
> right now I pull up quite a ways and the car still tends to roll a 
> little on my driveway. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks
> John E.




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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 08:58:51 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Front rotor... cross reference?

I gotcha. I didn't want to come across like you were unwilling to sell them
to me. From what I'm gathering the sets are somewhat scarce across the
board, even dating back to 1999 when they were first discovered.

It's actually a good thing that they are unavailable because I am getting
mixed opinions about them. 

I have 2 issues at the moment and maybe you can shed some light on it.

1. Noise. How much noise do the drilled holes generate?
2. Practicality. I drive my car less than 100 miles a month. Would high
performance rotors even matter in my case?

You'll get the money... whether it's for the OEM for the fancy new ones...
:)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Hervey [mailto:john_at_dml_specialtauto.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 10:57 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] Front rotor... cross reference?
> 
> Travis, I said I couldn't break the set right now. I'm checking my sources
> for rotors and at this time my sources have none in the U.S. As soon as I
> source them I will be happy to make extra for the front. I just don't have
> any extra at this time.
> John Hervey
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com]
> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2003 5:48 AM
> To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
> Subject: [DML] Front rotor... cross reference?
> 
> 
> I got a call from John Hervey and he said he couldn't sell me the
> cross-drilled PowerStop rotors unless they are a complete set. All I need
> (and can afford at the moment) are the fronts.
> 
> Has anyone put on the PowerStops? Anyone got a part number or cross
> reference?



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