From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1509
Date: Monday, May 19, 2003 7:15 AM

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: VIN#00614
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

2. Re: VIN#00614
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

3. RE: Front rotor... cross reference?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: Lucas' Launchers
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

5. thermostat
From: "cdmcali" <cdmcali_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Idle speed sensor
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

7. Re: Stronger brakes up front?
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

8. Carfax search request
From: "gr8old1" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

9. Re: Idle speed sensor
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. RE: Idle speed sensor
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Thumping suspension
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: Stronger brakes up front?
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

13. Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Valve cover gaskets -- Sunday version
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 09:45:00 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: VIN#00614

If this car is what it claims to be, then why is there a fender mounted
antenna?  I thought that came later in 81 after customers complained
about bad radio reception.   Also, there is no pic of the VIN number
plate.

Just my 2 cents...

-----Original Message-----
From: ferdaniraphael [mailto:raph40_at_dml_wanadoo.fr] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 11:45 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] VIN#00614


Hello list
There's an interesting collector on ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=31830&item=2415316101
 
Raph


MODERATOR ADDITION - go to ebay and cut/paste
 2415316101



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 16:20:48 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: VIN#00614

Probably because there is nothing to keep someone with an antenna and 
a holesaw from adding a fender antenna to any car. This sort of thing 
is a bad indicator of vintage, just like early cars/late hoods etc. 
Parts are interchangeable, cars are 20 years old......

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> If this car is what it claims to be, then why is there a fender 
mounted
> antenna?  I thought that came later in 81 after customers complained
> about bad radio reception.   Also, there is no pic of the VIN number
> plate.
> 
> Just my 2 cents...
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ferdaniraphael [mailto:raph40_at_dml_w...] 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 11:45 AM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] VIN#00614
> 
> 
> Hello list
> There's an interesting collector on ebay :
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&category=31830&item=2415316101
>  
> Raph
> 
> 
> MODERATOR ADDITION - go to ebay and cut/paste
>  2415316101




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 11:43:26 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Front rotor... cross reference?

Ski,
 As I understand it the standard Delorean calipers will be ok but spacers
have to be also used to get the extra distance between them. I have not had
the time to work it out yet. Then replacing them with vented rotors will
work. Again, as I understand the cross drilled solid rotor w/o vent would be
about the equal with vented rotor. I'm shipping rotors off to a company who
will work out the details.Messing with brake parts could get into major
libality problems. Proceed with caution and have the work professionally
done unless you try to do it yourself.That's what I have to do.
John

-----Original Message-----
From: W."Ski" Lukowski [mailto:vegascop1_at_dml_lvcm.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 11:03 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [DML] Front rotor... cross reference?


John,

Rotors are great, but did you look into the upgrade in calipers? Also,
these crossed drilled rotors you have, are they vented or plain solid
iron?
See, I like the idea on getting away with solid rotors and replacing
them with vented. Let me know if you have any experience with that
subject?

Ski 4649



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 19:12:21 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Lucas' Launchers

You can do it really easily by using the ground on the unlock sense wire 
- ie the launchers electrically cannot work if the doors are locked.

Martin

doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> One question I had was whether there is 
>a real need for the relay that prevents a launch when the doors are locked.  
>Trying to launch with the doors when locked is just like trying to open the 
>doors when your in the car and forgot to unlock them first.  
>





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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 19:26:51 -0000
From: "cdmcali" <cdmcali_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: thermostat

Does anyone know of a thermostat cross reference. that you can buy at 
any auto parts store?




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:52:06 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Idle speed sensor

Ok i have one sensor to test and i dont know how so i am asking for help again. Part #102480 Idle Speed Thermister or also known as Constant Idle Switch Thermister. This switch has 2 connection tabs on it. I hooked up a tester and
ran it uneder hot and cold water and it didnt seem to do anything, i was checking to see if it made a contact under hot and cold water like the Lambda sensor does.

Anyone please help me with this so i can enjoy the summer driving my car.

I am not electrical smart, i am electricly challenged so i need easy instructions to test this sensor.

Thanks
Mark
6683




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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 20:20:13 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Stronger brakes up front?

Under hard braking the weight is distributed to the front of the car
so you need more stopping power at the front. But keep in mind
that the front brakes on the Delorean lock up first which
can make it difficult to control.



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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 19:34:48 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: Carfax search request

MOD NOTE - PLEASE REPLY OFF-LINE

can someone run a carfax report on a vehicle for me?
2001 Chevy Monte Carlo
2G1WX15K319133292

thanks
-Jeff Chabotte webmaster(AT)88-mph.com
www.88-mph.com




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 01:51:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Idle speed sensor

The idle sensor isn't an on-off kind of thing. Hook a resistance meter
to it and while you change the temperature you should see the
resistance change. These are not a high failure rate item. The things
to watch for are that they shouldn't leak when you reinstall, the
wiring connections should be clean and tight, and the wiring going to
the sensor should be in good condition, not brittle or pinched. It
tells the idle ECU to make the motor idle faster when cold and slower
when warmed up. It is wahat is known as a thermistor. The resistance
goes down as it gets warmed up opposite to a resistor.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> Ok i have one sensor to test and i dont know how so i am asking for
help again. Part #102480 Idle Speed Thermister or also known as
Constant Idle Switch Thermister. This switch has 2 connection tabs on
it. I hooked up a tester and
> ran it uneder hot and cold water and it didnt seem to do anything, i
was checking to see if it made a contact under hot and cold water like
the Lambda sensor does.
> 
> Anyone please help me with this so i can enjoy the summer driving my
car.
> 
> I am not electrical smart, i am electricly challenged so i need easy
instructions to test this sensor.
> 
> Thanks
> Mark
> 6683




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 21:11:01 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Idle speed sensor

Mark, Under normal tap water and with a digital ohm meter set on the 20K
scale hooked up to the two terminals.
The reading will vary but 8,000 ohms cold and hot water 2400 ohms.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2003 4:52 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Idle speed sensor


Ok i have one sensor to test and i dont know how so i am asking for help
again. Part #102480 Idle Speed Thermister or also known as Constant Idle
Switch Thermister. This switch has 2 connection tabs on it. I hooked up a
tester and
ran it uneder hot and cold water and it didnt seem to do anything,



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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 02:30:33 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thumping suspension

My suspension has been making thumping and "boingy" noises in the
front (mostly driver's side, I believe) for a couple of months now. 
I'm trying to determine what exactly is causing the noise and how I
can fix it.

The noise most often happens when I stop hard.  However, there is a
spot in the road near where I live that dips down just a little bit
right before a stop sign (so I'm always slowing down at that point),
and it almost always makes a noise there, no matter how slow/fast I'm
going/stopping.  The suspension doesn't seem to like that spot very
much.

I had my suspension lowered at DMC Houston almost 3 years ago, so the
springs and shocks are relatively new -- I shouldn't expect anything
to be wrong with them yet.  However, I've probably put 40k miles on
the car since then (can't tell for sure--stupid angle drive!).

Any suggestions?

Aaron
#1506

(BTW: This isn't the "tools sliding around in the luggage compartment"
problem that I've seen discussed on the list previously.)




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 22:26:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Stronger brakes up front?

On Sun, 18 May 2003, Michael T Twigger wrote:

> so you need more stopping power at the front. But keep in mind that the
> front brakes on the Delorean lock up first which can make it difficult
> to control.

It's always better for the front brakes to lock up first - especially on a 
rear engined car, but the same is true anywhere.  Locked up tires have no 
"directional stability" - they will not provide any resistance to side to 
side movement.  If you have weight in the back, braking force applied from 
the front, and no stability from the rear tires, spinning will be the 
result.

If the front wheels are locked up you won't be able to steer, but the
solution is to apply slightly less force to the brakes.




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 02:45:40 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?

Andrew

Did you check the fan motor ground?

Harold McElraft - 3354




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 02:42:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Valve cover gaskets -- Sunday version

Important news first: passenger valve cover gasket was indeed toast.
May have been flexible fiber 20 years ago, but isn't now. FelPro
replacement is two layers of rubber sandwiching a metal core --
improvement. Biggest cause of leak: timing chain cover is not flush
with mating surface on head. Is real close, but you can feel the step
up when putty knife runs around it. Was also significant crap buildup
on that end where engine had been sucking it in. Rather than reseat
whole timing chain cover, I installed new gasket in a THIN bed of
silicone (a little thicker on that end). Should be fine. Valve cover
is settling into it's gentle torque tonight. Will tighten fully tomorrow.

Will be a couple of days until driver's side finished (started with
the easy one first). Then will report if #5939 is FINALLY leak free...

Got to thinking last night (my DeLo gives me much to think about): ALL
my vehicles have PCV. Wouldn't be "CV" if they didn't vent entire
crankcase. Sure enough, Ford factory manuals state "xx engine is
equipped with a positive closed-type crankcase ventilation system
re-cycling the crankcase vapors to the intake manifold." And that's
ALL they say. A few paragraphs about testing the PCV valve, and that's
it. Certainly nothing akin to tech manual page D:06:03.

What threw me: my Fords are MUCH less susceptible to vacuum leaks
after intake manifold. To isolate some noisy rocker arms on the 400,
ran engine with valve covers off altogether (word of experience:
unless you want oil all over the driveway do this one side at a time,
with that side jacked up). Can pluck PCV valves out of valve covers
with so effect on idle. If a valve cover leaks it makes a mess, but
that's all. Have never had an engine as susceptible to vacuum leaks
elsewhere as PRV.

Have always heard biggest benefit of PCV is reduction of sludge under
valve covers. Is not emissions related (my '69 has it). Guess it
reduces sludge throughout entire engine.

Bill Robertson
#5939 (a lean mean air sucking machine)





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