From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1519
Date: Sunday, May 25, 2003 8:12 AM

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There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: clutch fork broken?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: sad De Lorean on Ebay...
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>

3. Delorean for Sale, (different thread)
From: "trevor Johson" <dmcboy1der_at_dml_hotpop.com>

4. RE: Re: Heater Advice
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Back To The Future DeLorean
From: "dmc12_nwd" <dmc12_nwd_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: Transmission Questions
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>

7. Re: Parts for a sad ebay DMC-12
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: Transmission Questions
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>

9. RE: Back To The Future DeLorean
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

10. Antenna Fuse
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

11. Re: Parts for a sad ebay DMC-12
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>

12. Door Lock solenoid RH
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de

13. Re: clutch fork broken?
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

14. Anybody up for a beat up dmc?
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>

15. RE: Transmission Questions
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

16. Re: Heater Advice
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 22:07:19 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: clutch fork broken?

If it will help, I have 3 pictures of the clutch fork set up on the site
under reference general.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/reference-materials.html

-----Original Message-----
From: at88mph [mailto:at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2003 4:13 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] clutch fork broken?


> I ordered a new throw out bearing for a DeLorean that I'm working on and
> noticed that it slides on the clutch fork.  On one side of the bearing,
> there is a small bracket that slides onto the clutch fork, however, on the
> other side, there is nothing.   I compared both the stock bearing and the
> new one (from PJ Grady) and they both look the same so I'm guessing
> something is just missing off the clutch fork or its broken?  I looked at
> the parts catalog but didn't notice anything special in the diagram for the
> clutch fork.  Am I missing something?
>
> Here is a pic of the bearing:
> http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//bearing.jpg
>
> Here is a pic of the fork:
> http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//clutchfork.jpg
>
>
> Here is a pic of bearing on the fork:
> http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/at88mph//forknbearing.jpg
>
> Thanks for any help!



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 03:10:03 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Re: sad De Lorean on Ebay...

As the Sad Delorean on Ebay is grim to look at,our other "gullwings"  
are facing the same results,I have posted some pics on the Photo 
section of a Very Sad Bricklin(NOT my car)(as my Bricklins are very 
well taken care of!! They are under the section: Sad Bricklin.In 
short, take care of these rare cars,don't let them die a grim life 
out in a field somewhere.

Claude
00570  




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 20:21:55 -0700
From: "trevor Johson" <dmcboy1der_at_dml_hotpop.com>
Subject: Delorean for Sale, (different thread)

We are thinking about selling one of our DeLoreans, and we thought we might
post here to see if there would be any interest.

1- 1981 vin #4055, Black interior, manual, silver wheels, power ant. grooved
hood, 10,000 original miles, first place concours winner, silver racing
stripe. asking $35,000

2- 1981 vin # 6974, grey interior, manual, silver wheels, grooved hood,
60,000 miles, silver racing stripe. asking $30,000

Both cars have aftermarket stereos professionally installed, with very
little impact on the interior. Both are have been taken care of very well,
and are 100% reliable daily drivers. If there are any questions, please
respond off list to dmcboy1der_at_dml_hotpop.com.

-the Johnson Family





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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 23:01:58 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Heater Advice

Dan, Most of the clear tubings for the medical, food service and industrical
applications have got plenty of clear industrial grades but most operating
temperatures are below 200 degree F. To get into the clear tubing with a low
hardness that would be flexable would be at about into the 400 degree range,
stiff and expensive. The tubing that I use on the fuel baffle is $3.00 per
inch and is clear and made to resist chemicals. 50 ft minium. Pressure isn't
the problem, it's temp. If your using a clear Poly tubing, most likly the
temperature rating may only be 125 to 165 degree. It won't last long as Toby
say's. I have all kinds of samples on tubing for all applications.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com






--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> since I just got it all bled after I installed my own version of the
> auto bleed (with clear tubing).



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 04:52:02 -0000
From: "dmc12_nwd" <dmc12_nwd_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Back To The Future DeLorean

I would like some more info on these cars, how many were built, where 
were they purchased before the were in the movies, where are they now,
and can you buy one, were they used in any other movie ?




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 01:47:49 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho_at_dml_siue.edu>
Subject: Re: Transmission Questions

<< Very disappointing, I have hundreds of hours into the car and have spent
almost $10K to restore and put the car back on the road. I'm good with
engines, but drive train is another thing. Can anyone give me some guidance
on how to trouble shoot this, or where to start? >>

Lucky for you, this one should only cost you a few hours and about $6 from
your local Radio Shack.  The symptoms you describe are a classic trans
governor failure, but you could hook up test lights to be sure.  Take a look
at the excellent articles written by Mark Hershey:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer2.htm

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/transputer3.htm

There are a few more details (such as how to remove the governor) not
listed, but this will give you a good start.  By the way, be careful not to
drape the wires to the governor across the exhaust pipes! [Inside joke]

Jake Kamphoefner





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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 04:33:57 -0400
From: "Dan RC30" <danrc30_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parts for a sad ebay DMC-12

I gotta say this... if you're willing to spend that kinda money on it,
you're making a big mistake. There's no two ways about it. When looking at
the rear wheel, it's obvious that it has some chassis/suspension/frame
problems. You are looking at a HUGE investment in time and money to get this
thing back on the road. I suggest you speak with Dave Stragand first before
buying. He bought "Vixen"; a twin-turbo car that was in excellent
condition... well, before it was completely dismantled. He had the job of
just putting it back together for the most part. I believe some pieces were
missing and some needed replacing also. But the car you're looking at HAS
pieces missing, and HAS parts that need replacing for sure! And the rest of
the parts that are "good" will need major work as well; ex. the stainless.
Dave (I think) has over $20k into his "Vixen" now, and if I remember
correctly, he did say if he knew how difficult and how expensive it was
going to be, he would've spent the money on a "good car" in the first place.
(Hope I'm remembering correctly Dave!)

I'd also contact Nick Pitello. He has first hand experience with restoring a
car that was in pretty bad condition. The people here giving you advice
aren'ty trying to discourage you just for the sake of it, they're trying to
HELP you. They don't want to see you make the same mistake as many others
did. And I'm sorry if people don't like this opinion, but this car is barely
a parts car. I mean, what's good on it? I don't see much from the pics that
look like they can be salvaged.

I also have experience with bringing a "sad" DeLorean back to life. But my
car ran and drove straight down the road. And everything was there!

Please, don't get a "gung-ho" attitude just because people are discouraging
you. Don't wast your time and money just for the sake of "getting another
DeLorean back on the road". If you do buy it, and completely restore it, and
then want to sell it someday, no buywe will care about your efforts. They
will want to buy it for as little as possible.

If you still think the list is wrong, call Rob at PJ Grady and ask him his
opinion of the car. The number is 631-589-6224. He'll go to Ebay's site for
you and he'll give you his honest opinion. He's knows more about the
DeLorean than anyone I know. (Yes Dave T., even you... :-P)

Good luck

---"Evil" Dan






Message: 17
Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 19:02:56 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>
Subject: Re: Parts for a sad ebay DMC-12

Yahoo! I got answers....
Thanks guys. I will definitely follow up on those two. And I think I
might actually get this one...#4889 will live on!
I forgot to mention that this car was actually not used as a parts
car by the previous owner, it was, ironcally, a project car....
If the price stays below $2500, I'll make it...i hope.





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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 03:20:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Questions

Mike,
Classic symptom of a bad computer governer.
When I bought my car last year it was doing exactly
what your car is doing.It's gear changes were very
erratic.You did the right thing by not driving it
much.The last owner of my car drove it for some time
with the defective governer computer and when I
drained the oil out of the transmission I started to
unearth all sorts of carnage.Had to have the tranny
rebuiult and also needed a new torque converter.
I also replaced the governer and have had to problems
since.The governers can be frustrating,one minute its
acting crazy,the next its fine.
So replace the governer and you should be good to go.
So keep your chin up,you're almost there!

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.



__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com



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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 11:03:29 -0400
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: RE: Back To The Future DeLorean

The Back to the Future Bulletin Board should be able to answer all those
questions for you. They have a section specifically for the Delorean, as
well as a couple threads that go into these questions specifically.

http://www.bttf.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi? (might have to copy and
paste with the question mark)

The best answer as to "how many and where are they now" is this.  7 cars
total.
Movie A Car: At the DreamWorks offices (formerly Amblin).
Movie B Car: At USH (converted for part 2)
Movie C Car: At the back lot of USH (Cut up car)
Movie D Car: Was at the back lot of USH (Whitewall tires, now a
converted car by George Barris.
Movie E Car: Another Whitewall tires car, most likely the car on display
at Universal Japan. The DeLorean they used for the replica was one of
the old film cars they had laying around on the backlot.
Movie F Car: Converted for railroad, car hanging from Planet Hollywood,
most likely car used for destruction at end of film. As Michael Lanteria
who was in charge of the vehicles has stated in interviews they had 5
cars for Part 3. They used 2 cars from the first movie, they had two
special suped up DMCs for the desert scenes, and they had one new
DeLorean they built from scratch for the railroad scenes. They used
parts from other cars on all these new cars, so there were parts from
Part 1 Deloreans in some of the "new" Deloreans they were using.
Movie G Car (Fiberglass 1): Hung from wires for flying scenes, destroyed
during filming on first day.
Movie H Car (Fiberglass 2): Hung from wires, was used in scene where
DeLorean lands, on top of Biff's hotel, and in pursuit of Biff in 1955.
Also used for some studio shots of Doc looking out of the car and such.
Most likely the car that was on display at USH.


-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Webmaster, http://www.88-mph.com
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dmc12_nwd [mailto:dmc12_nwd_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 12:52 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Back To The Future DeLorean

I would like some more info on these cars, how many were built, where 
were they purchased before the were in the movies, where are they now,
and can you buy one, were they used in any other movie ?




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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 10:40:14 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Antenna Fuse

What size fuse will i need for my power antenna? The first antenna melted my power wire
and destroyed the antenna its self, the antenna was replaced but not the power wire. My
power wire is attached to a circuit breaker but i want a in-line fuse in case this ever
happens again so i need to know what size fuse to use for this application.

Mark
6683




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 17:03:17 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>
Subject: Re: Parts for a sad ebay DMC-12

Yes, I know it's a huge investment. I have some pics of the underbody 
(Sad Ebay De Lorean in photos), but I can't compare them to anything, 
since I've never been able to look under a healthy De Lorean and I 
don't have any comparison pics. Some of the names of these pics might 
be a litte inaccurate, btw. My goal with this car is to have it where 
I can safely drive it for 10 miles without it falling apart, 
exploding, burning, etc, in 3 years or less if possible. At this 
time, I AM NOT going to be attempting to restore this car. That might 
be something a few (10 or more) years down the road. I am not getting 
a 'gung ho attitude' because of people advising me against this car, 
I am just really excited about working on one of these cars. I 
don'tunderstand why everybody thinks I'm dumb enough to try to 
restore this car in less than 10 years. I may not ever restore, it, I 
might decide to make it into a very nice daily driver, with custom 
parts in place of missing or damaged ones. I don't know yet. All I 
know is it's the lowest price on  a De Lorean I've found so far, and 
I believe it's a good candidate for repair and resurrection. And 
while I am inexperienced with these cars now, I won't be when I'm 
through. Thanks again for the advice.




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 19:40:50 +0200
From: klaus.steiner_at_dml_t-online.de
Subject: Door Lock solenoid RH

I need a Door Loock Solenoid RH, does anyone have a spare or a used one ?

Please answer me privatly to klaus.steiner(at)t-online.de

Klaus
#05980
Germany



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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 13:20:06 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: clutch fork broken?

John,

Thanks alot for those pics!  That really helped.  We haven't installed the
bearing/fork yet, but I'm willing to bet that when we do, when the
fork/bearing slide back, the one side that doesn't have anything holding it
to the fork will be out or in a bind so to speak as it fits loose on the
fork.  Should I take a pair of pliers and try to close the bearing brackets
slightly so it'll fit more snug on the fork or is it supposed to be loose
like that?

Thanks again for the info and help!


----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 12:07 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] clutch fork broken?


> If it will help, I have 3 pictures of the clutch fork set up on the site
> under reference general.
> John hervey
> http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/reference-materials.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at88mph [mailto:at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2003 4:13 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] clutch fork broken?

[moderator snip]



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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 23:41:59 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>
Subject: Anybody up for a beat up dmc?

My dad's being a jerk. He led me to believe I could buy this car, and 
now he says he won't let me. He won't say WHY....but that's typical 
of him. And now I've wasted all you guys's time and effort in looking 
for parts, and I want to publicly apologize. If anybody wants to bid 
on this car, I sure won't be. 

Dejectedly, angrily yours,

Adam Stadnick
DMC owner...someday




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 21:18:26 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Transmission Questions

Andrew and group. I recently up dated a new auto trans computer governor. It
was the same design as the old one and with the same low voltage parts and
would have failed. Customer wanted it updated before he installed it. Just
an FYI.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Prentis [mailto:aprentis_at_dml_rocketmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 3:21 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Transmission Questions


> Mike,
> Classic symptom of a bad computer governer.
> When I bought my car last year it was doing exactly
> what your car is doing.It's gear changes were very
> erratic.You did the right thing by not driving it
> much.The last owner of my car drove it for some time
> with the defective governer computer and when I
> drained the oil out of the transmission I started to
> unearth all sorts of carnage.Had to have the tranny
> rebuiult and also needed a new torque converter.
> I also replaced the governer and have had to problems
> since.The governers can be frustrating,one minute its
> acting crazy,the next its fine.
> So replace the governer and you should be good to go.
> So keep your chin up,you're almost there!
> 
> Andrew
> VIN 2883
> Sydney,Aus.



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 25 May 2003 03:30:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Heater Advice

Any vacuum operated 5/8" heater core shut off valve can be substituted
for the factory original. Very affordable ($12-$15) at a parts house.
It'll be a bend & stretch, but you can replace with rest of block
intact. Question is: what is condition of remaining heater core
plumbing? (You mention replacing bleed line with clear tubing but do
not mention any other hoses).

Don't know how well known, but only time this valve is activated is at
max A/C setting. All other times heater core is charged. That's how
temperature is affected by hot-cold dial (attached by cable to a door
over heater core. Turning towards hot routes more air over heater core).

If no breeze is felt through foot well vents in A/C mode your lower
door diaphragm should be connected OK.

Re: clear turbing -- this is probably bigger danger than old heater
core hoses. Add my voice to those recommending immediate replacement.
Don't worry about seeing the bubbles. If it's connected correctly,
it'll bleed OK.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> I have a question I'm hoping can be answered or at least you all can 
> steer me in the right direction.
> 
> My A/C is out, which may not end up being such a bad thing, since it 
> has helped me notice that with the fan on, heat setting to cold, and 
> selector in any position, I get cold air out of the vents, but heat 
> from under the dash. It is not blowing that I can feel, there is just 
> heat emanating from there. It makes the D unbearable to drive without 
> A/C here in central Florida. 
> 
> However, when I turn off the fan, the temperature with the windows 
> open is bearable. Only with fan on does it get real hot in the car.
> 
> A friend suggested that my "hot water valve," might not be working. 
> This is the valve in the heater core line, with the odd looking 
> vacuum operated valve just forward of the engine on the passenger 
> side.
> 
> Any body have any dealings with this or can offer me advice on how to 
> test? I figure I'll need to pull it out, which is a bummer since I 
> just got it all bled after I installed my own version of the auto 
> bleed (with clear tubing).
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan in Cocoa (3932)




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