From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1546
Date: Monday, June 16, 2003 10:09 AM

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean Car Show
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms
From: "purdueman1970" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

5. My First complete maintenance pictorial HOWTO
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Re: air inlet valve
From: "kcreason77" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

7. DeLorean Texas' High Performance Engine?
From: "kissman_jay" <KISSman83_at_dml_aol.com>

8. AW: Replacement Angle Drive
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

9. Dirt in the Intake
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Visible Fuel Injector Spray Pattern
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Vacuum leak at throttle plate shaft
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 22:40:49 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show

Well we are now 1 year away from Pigeon Forge

It was kinda fun watching the days remaining turn to under 365.
Now the countdown really begins.  Plenty of rooms and plenty of space.
If you thought the Hollywood was big!!!!!

Thanks to all for your support and hopefully in the next few days we will be 
adding about 15 more videos of people coming to Pigeon Forge including Mark 
DeLorean and Marvin Katz.  We've been busy  

Have fun 

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 03:28:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms

Is it an honest to goodness miss, or something else? (people sometimes
mischaracterize other problems as "misses"). Put a timing light on
each wire, as close to plug as possible. If you've got consistent
spark on each, you don't have a miss. Exactly how does the engine
behave? Misfires happen suddenly and are extremely short duration.
Vacuum leaks cause engine to slowly drag, then catch itself. If you've
got backfire or muffler farts, something's happened to ignition time
(valve clatter can also be a timing problem). If the engine's just
sluggish, or again if valves clatter, you may have fuel supply issues.

Since your problem clears up at higher RPM's, re-check for vacuum
leaks ALL OVER engine (vacuum leaks usually are low RPM problem). PRV
has all kinds of nooks and crannies to suck air though. As I
discovered, is susceptible to vacuum leaks through valve covers. This
also means any point on timing chain cover could introduce air, even
down by the oil pan. Are two access covers on BACKSIDE of heads
(closest to front of car) as well as the one under A/C idler pulleys.
According to tech manual, dipstick tube can leak air. If true, that
means any point around oil pan can have a vacuum leak. Your best best
is to test spray entire engine with carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or
whatever. Even if problem isn't a vacuum leak you'll have cleanest PRV
in town.

Mechanic once told me 99% of car problems are electrical. Have since
found he was correct. General public usually jumps on fuel system
first. Should start with spark plugs and work backwards.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> My car runs rough and misses at low rpms. It will have very little 
> power until it hits 3k rpms then its fine.  I checked the timing and 
> its set fine, checked to make sure that the vacuum advance is 
> working, checked for vacuum leaks.
> 
> Am i looking at a fuel issue, an ignition issue, other issue?
> 
> Anyone got any idea?
> Phil Priestley




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 14:02:23 -0000
From: "purdueman1970" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms

My 83 D also acts sluggesh below 3k RPM, however it makes a putt putt 
or pop pop type noise when starting from a dead stop or from a low 
RPM level....but is ok after that. If you remove the fuel injectors 
is there any way to test them for proper operation or is there a 
solvent that can be used to remove deposits. My car sat for many year 
before I purchased it.

Mike




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 17:08:40 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms


It turns out my problem was both fuel and ignition. Last week I took 
the car to the carwash and  carefully (i thought) pressure washed the 
goo off the engine. I didn't realize that the sparkplug well on cyl 3 
had filled with water. The cleaning also removed the coating of goo 
that was keeping  the fuel injector seal on #3  from sucking wind. When 
I hit the fuel injector with carb cleaner the rpms went wild. No wonder 
the car was missing bad and had no power. No spark and huge vacuum leak 
on the same cyl.
  As a temporary fix until I can get my hands on new injectors and seals 
I gave it a good wrap with teflon tape and  stopped the vacuum leak for 
now. For the first time ever my car idles at 750 rpms and is relatively 
smooth. Cant wait to see how it is with new injectors and seals.

I found another vacuum leak  at the shaft for the throttle plate. I can 
also feel the throttle plates sticking and they don't want to return 
all they way to a closed position. They're not sticking way open, just 
enough to make it idle at 1200-1500 unless you tap the gas to make it 
come back to rest. I verified that its the plates and not the cable 
that is sticking. Any Ideas here?

I want to thank John Hervey for his help on the phone yesterday.I think 
the CPR might be ok after all.


Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
(503)370-9951




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 10:37:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: My First complete maintenance pictorial HOWTO

Hello all:


I would like to provide the first of my HOWTO's as was
previously discussed.  This was sort of like testing
the waters as it is nothing magical in terms of
content,  Its the presentation that I think many will
like.

    Right now it is on one of my FTP servers for you
to view but I would Imagine that these would be better
placed on the DMCNEWS website.

Please provide some feedback on this before i move
forward.  Good or bad , it all helps.

AND!!!! if you should find something wrong! send the
writer and or moderator an email quick.

have a look here

http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/Airfilterremove.html

Have a nice day


Jordan Rubin   11613

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 17:53:16 -0000
From: "kcreason77" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: air inlet valve

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> << My car has the air intake totally removed. Can someone explain an
easy fix 

For you guys (or gals) who have removed the air intake valve:
what did you do with the hot air pipe?
Remove it and leave it open? cap it off?





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 18:05:02 -0000
From: "kissman_jay" <KISSman83_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: DeLorean Texas' High Performance Engine?

Does anybody have any experience with the DeLorean Motor Company in 
Houston's High Performance Engine?  I plan on purchacing a D in the 
future, and I was wondering if it would be worth it to go all the way 
to Texas and spend the extra money, or if I would be better off to 
buy one of the Ds at the DeLorean Motor Center in nearby Garden 
Grove.  Is DMC Texas' engine worth the trip and the extra several 
thousand dollars?  Just getting one from Texas would be about $15,000 
extra, and with the new engine, it's almost twice the price.

Thanks for any information.




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 21:56:18 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Replacement Angle Drive

Guys, it's been a few days that I've had the angle drive in my hands,
but wasn't it wound in both directions ? There are several wires I thought,
only the outer one was wound in the correct direction.

I may be wrong, perhaps somebody can take some pics of it ?

Maybe with some brainstorming of several people on this list we can find a
good solution to fix this stupid thing forever ?!?

Regards,
Elvis



-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Gesendet: Freitag, 13. Juni 2003 06:41
An: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [DML] Replacement Angle Drive (For Right Hand Drive?)


Could well be. Entire engine is a replacement, so I wouldn't put it
past PO.

Does anyone know if replacement angle drives were once offered with
cables wound in wrong direction?

My housing is labeled "Smith Motor Accessories Ltd, England" Part
#862401/11.

Hey! Wait a minute! If my angle drive was designed for a speedo on
RIGHT side of car (driven by PASSENGER wheel), would be wound
correctly. Do I have a right hand drive angle drive?

BTW: Am having difficult time locating cable with 1/8" square end.
Even struck out at local truck repair facility. Have a backup idea
that should generate untold controversy... (watch this space...)

Bill Robertson
#5939

<excess quoted material trimmed>



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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 11:47:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Dirt in the Intake

Hello all:

     For those of you who had seen the HOTWo I just
drew up.  While doing this I noticed that the air
filter that was in the car was a bit too small for the
delorean.  

     Looks like a bit of gunk has clearly made its way
down into the air metering unit.   The filter has been
replaced and the car runs like usual (quiet but not so
good gas economy).  

     How far does anyone recommend I start removing
and cleaning stuff.   AMU, int.Manifold , Heads????

   If I have to take the AMU off, isnt that connected
to the fuel distrub unit.  If thats the case I could
swap out a cap and rotor during the cleaning



any thoughts.


thanx

Jordan Rubin #11613




__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 02:34:40 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Visible Fuel Injector Spray Pattern

Re: "poop poop" noises -- a spark plug that has come loose, or lost
its threads (actually, threads in the head), makes just such a sound.

Re: visible fuel injector spray pattern, see Message #32067. Is a
Volvo procedure to set fuel mixture, but could also use just to see
pattern. Don't forget to plug injector port. Guarantee engine won't
run otherwise.

Injectors can only be cleaned with special equipment. Have a little
spring and other goodies inside:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/fuelinjectordiagram.jpg

If fuel filter is intact, can't imagine anything big getting in there.
Might get gluey from old fuel deposits, but a tank or two with
powerful cleaner should break that down. You'd be surprised what a
long highway burn can accomplish. All my cars, Lincolns included, are
never as happy as after a trip up I-95.

Bill Robertson
#5939

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "purdueman1970" <townfour_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> My 83 D also acts sluggesh below 3k RPM, however it makes a putt putt 
> or pop pop type noise when starting from a dead stop or from a low 
> RPM level....but is ok after that. If you remove the fuel injectors 
> is there any way to test them for proper operation or is there a 
> solvent that can be used to remove deposits. My car sat for many year 
> before I purchased it.
> 
> Mike




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 02:48:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Vacuum leak at throttle plate shaft

Even carburetors will eventually start to leak there. Problem is steel
shaft rotating in a softer metal. Mine sucks a little, but not enough
yet to cause real problems. Will watch as car ages.

Re: throttle plates not springing closed
1) clean and lubricate spring on shaft and spring on throttle spool.
2) can tighten throttle spool spring by moving straight tail to next
groove.

See what I mean Re: carb cleaner to diagnose vacuum leaks? Best misuse
of a product ever. To reach really inaccessible places, simply slip a
piece of that really small vacuum hose over straw. I used an extension
to ensure everything OK under intake manifold (Dave Swingle's pics of
broken through corrosion got me scared). Don't forget to test WHOLE
engine. Unlike old domestics, PRV can suck air EVERYWHERE.

Order your new injector seals from a proper DeLo vendor. Are actually
WAY cheaper than a parts house. Don't forget new clips too.

How did water get into spark plug well? Make sure umbrella boots are
fully seated. If boot isn't water tight, order a new set of wires.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> 
> It turns out my problem was both fuel and ignition. Last week I took 
> the car to the carwash and  carefully (i thought) pressure washed the 
> goo off the engine. I didn't realize that the sparkplug well on cyl 3 
> had filled with water. The cleaning also removed the coating of goo 
> that was keeping  the fuel injector seal on #3  from sucking wind. When 
> I hit the fuel injector with carb cleaner the rpms went wild. No wonder 
> the car was missing bad and had no power. No spark and huge vacuum leak 
> on the same cyl.
>   As a temporary fix until I can get my hands on new injectors and
seals 
> I gave it a good wrap with teflon tape and  stopped the vacuum leak for 
> now. For the first time ever my car idles at 750 rpms and is relatively 
> smooth. Cant wait to see how it is with new injectors and seals.
> 
> I found another vacuum leak  at the shaft for the throttle plate. I can 
> also feel the throttle plates sticking and they don't want to return 
> all they way to a closed position. They're not sticking way open, just 
> enough to make it idle at 1200-1500 unless you tap the gas to make it 
> come back to rest. I verified that its the plates and not the cable 
> that is sticking. Any Ideas here?
> 
> I want to thank John Hervey for his help on the phone yesterday.I think 
> the CPR might be ok after all.
> 
> 
> Phil Priestley
> Alessandros 120
> (503)370-9951




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