From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1547
Date: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 11:45 AM

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There are 19 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Angle drive update
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Dirt in the Intake
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: air inlet valve
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

5. Marvin's Canadian DMC Meet
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>

6. Fiel injector cleaners in gas tank
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: My First complete maintenance pictorial HOWTO
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Oil Pressure and Canada Show and Shine
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

9. Re: Vacuum leak at throttle plate shaft
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Florida get-together
From: "geek123y" <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>

11. Delorean maintenance howto feedback
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: DeLorean Texas' High Performance Engine?
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

13. Re: Oil Pressure and Canada Show and Shine
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

14. Bad ignition switch or relay?
From: "gullwingman" <khintz_at_dml_earthlink.net>

15. Re: Oil Pressure and Canada Show and Shine
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

16. Re: Receiver wiring harness equivalent
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

17. Re: Angle drive update
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

18. RE: Fiel injector cleaners in gas tank
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

19. Anybody have the turbos? where? how much are they?
From: "steve" <steve_at_dml_redsquall.net>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 03:12:47 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Angle drive update

Somebody complained not too long ago that problems weren't being
followed up, so here goes:

-Right angle gears are still OK (yay).
-Remaining spindle cable keeps getting shorter as I experiment &
learn, but I've still got 3 inches to work with. Actually am very
certain next fix will be it. And I hate to disappoint everyone, but
the outer windings on my cable *ARE* incorrect direction. Counter
clockwise wheel rotation *LOOSENS* them. Am convinced I have right
hand angle drive designed for passenger wheel.
-I now know how to solder steel. Is WAY different than copper. Joints
now look so good I'm disappointed final fix will be hidden inside spindle.

Basically I'll end up with something similar to Dave Swingle's
original car. Will use several inches of #8 threaded rod to replace
missing cable. Thought square receptacle in wheel disc was ruined, but
found out after cutting off pocket that protudes into wheel was only
damaged at opening. Oh well. Instead of square drive, my wheel disc
will be threaded onto rod, then further tightened with fan lock
washer/nut/jamb nut combo where pocket used to be. I've already tested
this installation on wheel disc -- works excellent. If I could only
buy #8 rod in town (vs mail order) would have a working speedo for
next week's trip!

Bill Robertson
#5939




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 03:06:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: running rough and gutless at low rpms

Generally the fuel injectors don't need to be replaced. In most cases
they can be successfully cleaned in a fuel injector testor. I do
recomend replacing the injector seals and any broken clips. You should
also use new copper seals on the banjo bolts. Any Delorean vendor or
most large Volvo dealers can clean the injectors. Make sure the
frequency valve is buzzing, a dead Lambda can cause this symptom.
Usually a bad relay. Other BIG problem is VACUUM LEAKS!!!!! The rubber
on the car is over 20 years old so every car has vacuum leaks unless
the rubber has been replaced.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 03:13:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Dirt in the Intake

Remove the air filter box. Put on rubber gloves and spray some Brake
cleaner onto a rag. Wipe the throat of the air metering unit and
sensor plate till clean. Make sure air sensor plate is centered and
doesn't rub on the sides of the venturi. The air filter is not too
small, you just have to change it once in a while. If the fuel economy
is low it can be anything from the way you drive to the tire inflation
pressures to how long it has been since the last tune-up. Vacuum leaks
can also reduce performance and mileage. Same goes for worn spark
plugs, old ignition wires, and dirty fuel injectors. After replacing
all of the old or worn parts THEN you can have the mixture screw adjusted.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
>      For those of you who had seen the HOTWo I just





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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 03:41:39 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Re: air inlet valve

I just grabbed the hot air pipe with my hand and yanked her right 
off.  No need to do anything else with the heat stove or remaining 
opening unless your worried about cosmetics.  (Mine still has the 
last inch of the pipe attached to the heat stove).  It isn't going 
to shoot heat anywhere.  No fan with it, only sucked air by the 
vaccume of the engine.

!!!A note to everybody though!!!
Check your hot air pipe up against the coolant pipe.  If they are 
too close they will rub and the hot air pipe will file a hole right 
into your coolant pipe.  It did on mine.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "kcreason77" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, dherv10_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > << My car has the air intake totally removed. Can someone 
explain an
> easy fix 
> 
> For you guys (or gals) who have removed the air intake valve:
> what did you do with the hot air pipe?
> Remove it and leave it open? cap it off?




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 09:06:24 -0000
From: "Richard" <dmc_driver_at_dml_yahoo.ca>
Subject: Marvin's Canadian DMC Meet

What a great weekend that was!  Everyone who came to London, Ontario
this past weekend had an excellent time, and those of you who didn't
make it, ... well, you really missed out.  Special thanks to Marvin
Stein for making it all happen.  Everything, from the hotel, meals and
the cruise was perfectly planned out.  Karen and I had a blast the
whole time and are looking forward to the next one.  We've never met
such a great group of people.    


Richard Rowe
VIN 05853




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 04:27:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fiel injector cleaners in gas tank

Hello all:
 
    Does anybody have any thoughts on using those bottled fuel injector cleaners when they fill up their gas?  Some say it does more bad than good.  
 
 
thanx
 
jordan rubin 11613
 
 



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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 12:38:09 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: My First complete maintenance pictorial HOWTO

This is now available in the DMCNews Tech Section. Look under 
the "General" heading for "Jordan's Encyclopedia". If this gets more 
specific I'll probably integrate it in with the rest of the 
information. 

http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
> 
> I would like to provide the first of my HOWTO's as was
> previously discussed.  This was sort of like testing
> the waters as it is nothing magical in terms of
> content,  Its the presentation that I think many will
> like.
> 
>     Right now it is on one of my FTP servers for you
> to view but I would Imagine that these would be better
> placed on the DMCNEWS website.





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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 14:10:39 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure and Canada Show and Shine

Got back from Marv Stein's Show and Shine in London, Ontario. Great 
time had by all, I'm sure. 14 cars at one point!! I had a wonderful 
time and met some really great people!

Well (Just after you took the radio back from me Shannon :P ) on the 
way back my oil pressure dropped considerably. About 50-60 psi at 
speed and ZERO at idle.
Well I kept up with the caravan, and made our way to the point that I 
split off to head home. And stopped to check my oil. Everything fine. 
Engine carpartment had no sign of abnormal oil leakage (my normal bit 
around some areas of the bottom of the engine). So I headed home and 
made it there w/o incident.

I checked the connections of the sender and saw nothing wrong.
I bought my sender from John Hervey _at_dml_ SpecialTauto. I don't know if 
you have the "oem" units, John. But I 've heard they usually read too 
high.... which is not the case here. MAybe it's the guage? or wiring? 
How could the pressure *actually be* low. Could the pump be going 
out? I would think an oil pump would either work or not, but what do 
I know?

If it comes to it: when the engine is cold will removing the sender 
cause the oil to leak out... or is it all down in the pan at that 
point?

Any other ideas?
Thanks!!
James L 4009




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 15:36:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum leak at throttle plate shaft

There is a better way to find small vacuum leaks. This is an old
mechanic's trick and is to be used cautiously.
Hook up a tach meter so you can watch the engine RPM's. Next get a
Burnsomatic torch (the kind with the disposable propane bottle that is
used for plumbing), remove the tip and slid a short piece of hose over
the pipe. Now aim the hose at a suspected leak, crack open the valve
for a second and watch the tach. If you see a change in RPM's then you
are near a leak. This MUST be done carefully as propane is highly
flammable. Any sparks (like from bad ignition wires) can set the
propane on fire. This will find the smallest leaks and help you
pinpoint them. I think this is safer than using carb cleaner as this
is a gaseous mixture as opposed to a liquid so it dissapates more
quickly. It also has a more immediate effect on the idle. Ether
(starting fluid) can also be used but is also dangerous and harder to
control with an aerosol can. From all that has been posted about
vacuum leaks the best bet is to just inspect and/or replace all
gaskets, seals, and hoses. This procedure is meant to find something
unusual after having gone over everything and still having problems. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Even carburetors will eventually start to leak there. Problem is steel
> shaft rotating in a softer metal. Mine sucks a little, but not enough
> yet to cause real problems. Will watch as car ages.
> 





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 13:25:55 -0000
From: "geek123y" <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>
Subject: Florida get-together

Good morning everyone!

We had a great time at the Florida DeLorean Get Together on June 
15th!  We had 8 DeLoreans along with 2 other cars attending.  

Here is the link for the pictures and details:

http://www.techno-concepts.com/deloreanfla/index.htm

Thanks to all who attended.

Ken & Laura
#02700

P.S.  If anyone has any pictures, send them our way and we will post 
them.





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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 11:35:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Delorean maintenance howto feedback

Hello all:

     Overall It seemed like people liked the howto.
and had some good ideas to improve it.  One person
really hated it, which is kind of wierd i guess.
Anyway, I know there was a few spelling errors and
when posted to the dmcnews site you could not click on
the little pictures to see the big pictures.  I wasnt
aware that it was going to be moved to the DMCNEWS so
quick and didnt have time to work out the corrections.
 I work those issues out.  

  
     Working my way towards the cap and rotor I think
my next logical move would be the removal / cleaning /
maint. of the AMU/FDU system.  Unlike the airfilter,
serious things and dangerous stuff can happen when you
play with gasoline. 

     Its kind of ironic that in replacing my wrong
size air filter with the right one, i noticed the soot
in the AMU and should have to clean that out next. 

     I think at this point I would first post it to my
own web space for corrections,  then once a good
portion of the people in the group are in agreement
(safety and otherwise).  We could post it to the
dmcnews web site.

     I will be driving to Speyer for the European
Delorean get together this weekend so I probably wont
be tearing up the car this week.

    Once again, I love comments and criticism, unless
of course you just have the urge to write something
stupid and baseless just because you dont like the
clamp on my breather hose. 


thanx

Jordan Rubin  #11613

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 14:41:23 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Texas' High Performance Engine?

Jay,

This has been covered before, so I'll try to be brief.

I have one of the DMC Houston engines.  I think it's $4k to have your own engine
iupgraded or $6k for a modified crate engine, right?  That gets you close to 200 HP
which is a damn fine HP/dollar ratio.  The stock engine is about 130HP, I believe.  And
you'll end up with an engine that is more-or-less stock on the outside.

Sounds like you're in CA....shipping a car to TX should be around $1200 each way
(somebody feel free to jump in here on this one).  Depends on the shipper, of course.

Yes this adds up to real money eventually :-)  but if you plan to drive the car
frequently, I highly recommend more HP as it makes the car far more drivable.  You could
go with a turbo but I'm not a fan of forced-induction (fan? forced-induction? get
it? har har har!)

I ended up getting shocks, springs, tires, stereo, etc. to turn my car into a
daily-driver, high-performance vehicle and have spent in excess of $30k on car purchase,
repairs, and upgrades.  There aren't many other sports cars out there I'd rather have,
and certainly none of those are available in this price range.  You just have to ask
yourself: "Self, is it worth it?"


Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX


kissman_jay wrote:

> Does anybody have any experience with the DeLorean Motor Company in
> Houston's High Performance Engine?



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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 22:39:33 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Canada Show and Shine

Pull the sender unit out and screw in a mechanical presure guage. This
will give you an accurate reading of the engine oil pressure. Marty
Maier has a sender unit that is very accurate. It fits, you just have
to change the clip on the wire.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_e...>
wrote:
> Got back from Marv Stein's Show and Shine in London, Ontario. Great 
> time had by all, I'm sure. 14 cars at one point!! I had a wonderful 
> time and met some really great people!
> 
> Well (Just after you took the radio back from me Shannon :P ) on the 
> way back my oil pressure dropped considerably. About 50-60 psi at 
> speed and ZERO at idle.
> Well I kept up with the caravan, and made our way to the point that I 





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 22:42:51 -0000
From: "gullwingman" <khintz_at_dml_earthlink.net>
Subject: Bad ignition switch or relay?

Just purchased VIN#2250 and have been trying to debug an annoying problem with 
ignition switch or relay. Sometimes I put the key in , hear a click (behind passenger 
seat) and it will crank and start fine. Other times I will insert the key and nothing...no 
clicking, no gauge activity, no nothing. The problem also seems to be related to a 
sudden loss of electrical activity when I'm driving that kills everything. Roll to side of 
road, wiggle the key...wait...wiggle tthe key...wait...then it will magically come to life 
and start and run fine. Question, is it the ignition switch itself or a relay problem, and 
is there a test I can perform to determine where the problem is? I did a detailed 
inspection of both the ignition switch and the relay location behind the passsenger 
seat and everything appears fine, dry and clean.
Appreciate any information you folks can provide to help me solve this.
Ken H




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 01:20:24 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Canada Show and Shine

Check the oil filter and change it - make sure it has not come apart 
inside and clogged something.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "James LaLonde"  wrote:
> Got back from Marv Stein's Show and Shine in London, Ontario. -
on the way back my oil pressure dropped considerably. About 50-60 psi at > speed and ZERO at idle.



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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 21:43:41 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Receiver wiring harness equivalent


I installed an Alpine CD head unit in my car last summer.  You might want to refer to this page I put together:

http://www.eskin.net/radioharness.html

Also, keep in mind that the Delorean uses a "common ground" for the right and left side speakers (i.e. Front Right and Rear Right speakers use the same ground from the radio),  which caused MAJOR problems for my Alpine unit.. so I had to bypass the standard harness and wire separate grounds to each speaker.

-Hank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: [DML] Receiver wiring harness equivalent


> I've finally decided to break down and replace the stereo in my daily-
> driver car with something from the current century.





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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 02:48:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Angle drive update

I think the plastic drive disc is like a fuse. If the cable or angle
drive won't turn the plastic disc will allow the drive cable (square
cable) to twist inside the plastic disc. Bolting directly through it
will defeat that intended purpose. Perhaps the easiest way to fix a
bad square drive cable is to replace it with a piece of square stock.
Now it won't matter which way the thing is wound. Another posability
is to just braze the square drive cable to each end of a piece of
round stock, the correct overall length of course. I would try to
leave the plastic drive cap as it is though.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 22:09:33 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Fiel injector cleaners in gas tank

Jordan, If you use the injector cleaners, Put it in the car when your going
on a trip and are going to run out the most of the fuel/cleaner. Then fill
the car back up with gas and run it for a while to dilute the cleaner. There
are several Viton O rings in the fuel distributor that could damage and
swell them.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com




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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 23:38:32 -0000
From: "steve" <steve_at_dml_redsquall.net>
Subject: Anybody have the turbos? where? how much are they?

Anybody have the turbos? where? how much are they?




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