From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1552
Date: Sunday, June 22, 2003 5:27 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Low end hesitation update
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

2. Re: Low end hesitation update
From: "D F" <>

3. What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: Michiel Böhmer <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 01:56:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Low end hesitation update

The frequency valve should be a constant noise. Before you suspect the
computer make sure the relay isn't cutting in and out. I saw this
happen on another car and we thought it was the relay, it was a bad
connection to ground. The valve is grounded by a single wire going to
the side of the air intake. Make sure all of the connections are clean
and tight. Replace the "O" ring seal on the cold start valve where it
connects to the intake while you have everything apart. These are
usually included in what the vendors call a Master Water Pump Kit. If
you aren't replacing the water pump you should replace the 2 hoses
behind the water pump and the seals on the water distribution pipe as
long as you are in there. Since you have had trouble with the
injectors plugging up you might consider emptying the fuel tank and
cleaning it out and then replacing the fuel filter. Maybe it is the
gas you are using? Before reinstalling the intake pressure test the
cooling system to make sure there are no leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> As an update to the hesitation issues with my car, 5 of my injectors 
> have a poor spray pattern.  These were brand new in spring of 2001 
> when I rusted my original ones.  I'm going to have them 
> professionally cleaned with the bosch tool or whatever it is (my 
> uncle has the thing) next friday.
> My car also seemed to be running perfectly when analyzed.  It had .02 
> CO emmitions, 0 of the P emmitions (I honestly dont remember what 
> that one is called, I just 96know there is a P in it). Thats also 
> without a CAT. The timing was dead on.


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 03:28:18 +0000
From: "D F" <>
Subject: Re: Low end hesitation update

Holy Smokes,
I've recently purchased a DML, I was thinking of my Toyota 4-runner and my 
DML that has 25,000 miles on it and is being worked on. I've decided it's a 
beautiful car and I love it.  It was made for a mechanic to own.  I'm an 
engineer with little time to work on cars so I'll just admire it's beauty.  
My Toyotas seem to run and run and run and run.  WOW!
Keep working on that fuel system and deciding if it's the timing, and 
thinking about the possibility of a vacumn leak and wondering why there's 
rust on that car that doesn't rust.  and my Toyota keeps running and running 
and running..  I'm still looking forward to the day (it's coming soon) when 
I will drive my beautiful 1981  Delorean.  I know it will happen soon.  
Soon..... after I replace and clean the fuel system., After I remove the 
"small" exhaust studs and replace them.. Afte
Dale Funk

>From: "Jim Reeve" <>
>Subject: [DML] Low end hesitation update
>As an update to the hesitation issues with my car, 5 of my injectors
>have a poor spray pattern.


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:54:15 +0200
From: Michiel Böhmer <>
Subject: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?

Dear list-members,

I'm lost here. I have AC troubles and I can't find my answers in the archive. I have had my system converted to 134a by a specialised company. (new compressor, new orrifice, new accumulator, flushed etc.) by the book I would say. It worked for over a year and then all of a sudden it stopped cooling after getting very cold. The season was over, so this spring I had a new fill (with lots of that stuff wich lights up with Ultra violet-light) and after 3 weeks it was down again.
I have checked the system completely. I have had the condesor out of the car and checked it thoroughly (with UV and glasses). I even got the evaporator out of the dash, wich showed no leak at all.
It seems that the low pressure switch is broken because the clutch from the compressor still engaged after the system was drawn empty by a "AC-machine" 

But the strange thing is, and this is my question to you all; I could not find a high pressure switch and safety valve! WHERE ARE THEY? And if compressors should cycle on and off all the time, which component is controling this?
The workshoop manual is not very clear at this specific point. The switch is mentioned but there is not one picture showing the switch in the entire book (except fig 22 at N:03:02). Take for instance pic 55. at N:08:18, no switch where it should be. The switch is present at the wiring diagram at N:10:13 but the wiring diagram in my garage (uge poster) has none!
What is going on here?

I'm gonna have the components tested individually. There shlould be a way tho do a leak test with pressurisation. I'm pretty sure they won't find a leak. The next thing I could do is replace all the hoses. Once I heard that they can be porous. Do I realy have to split chassis and body for this?

I hope you can help me out here. An answer to my questions could really help me.


Michiel Bohmer
(VIN #2998)


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to