From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1558
Date: Thursday, June 26, 2003 6:47 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

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There are 22 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: fan failure,I though this was strange
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Cycling A/C compressor Part II
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Front hood corners not straight
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

5. Re: Rear view electric mirrors.
From: elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de

6. Air intake performance
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

7. RE: Vin 1880 Sold to young driver
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_charter.net>

8. Verizon and BTTF
From: "David Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_msn.com>

9. A/C Pop DeLo A/C Anomalies
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. DeLo A/C identical to GM, not Ford
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Re: fan failure,I though this was strange
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

12. Parade question
From: "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

13. Re: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>

14. Re: Parade question
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

15. Re: Front hood corners not straight
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

16. Re: Air intake performance
From: Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_delorean.ch>

17. getting together
From: "mcydrake" <mikedrake_at_dml_covegroup.com>

18. Re: Parade question
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>

19. Re: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

20. Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>

21. Re: Parade question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

22. Re: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage
From: pbnorton_at_dml_cs.com





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 04:10:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage

The main point I tried to make is even with the best of intentions
many cars that were "supposed" to be stored "temporaraly" end up being
stored long term. That isn't how it starts out but that is how it ends
up. For all the damage that can be avoided I just think draining is
the way to go. It isn't too hard to do or take very long if you have a
fluid extractor. The fuel you remove doesn't go to waste, you just put
it into another car that you are using. I agree that here is some
danger involved in the transfer of gasoline but it can be done safely
with the right equipment and procedure. Also as I said it allows you a
look into a very important hidden area of the car. You can inspect the
condition of the parts in the tank and look for water, dirt, and any
other contaminates. If you have a particular preference and it works
for you keep doing it. As for me I will remove the battery and the
fuel whenever I store the car for the winter and I recomend other
owners to also do it as long as they can drain the fuel safely.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> David,
> 
> Some of what you say makes sense but if you use your DeLorean regularly
> throughout every summer the work involved with empting the tank, not to
> mention fuel lines and such, is a waste of time IMHO. I have around
70,000
> miles on my car and all the fuel tank components are original with the
> exception of the fuel pump. That was changed during the first year of





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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 04:26:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: fan failure,I though this was strange

What most likely happened is 1 fan quit and you didn't notice it until
the 2nd one died and now you have neither fan operating. This is not
so unusual as both fans have the same run-time so they wear evenly.
When the brushes inside get too short they don't make good contact
(less spring pressure) so the motor stops. The vibration from hitting
the housing can sometimes get the motor to go again for a short time
but the sad truth is the motors need to be taken apart, cleaned,
lubricated and new brushes installed. For further improvement for the
fans I recommend either a Fanzilla or some other upgrade over the fan
fail relay or the bypass wire. Also change the circuit breaker. Make
sure all of the connections are clean and tight, this is a high
current circuit operating at near the design limits of the wiring and
connectors. A Fanzilla can tell you if 1 or both fans are not working
so you won't get surprised again. This is what the fan fail relay was
SUPPOSED to do and the bypass wire cannot.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jonas P" <Delorean3543_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Both of my cooling fans failed at the same time. I have an fan fix 
> kit from PJ Grady. I went crazy tring to figuar out what the problem 
> was. I checked the voltage and found that both fans where getting 
> power. Then I tapped twice on one of the fans (while the car was 
> running with A/C on) and it came on. I did the same to the other and 
> it came on. Now I can understand why this would happen to a fan 
> motor, but both at the same time? Any comments? I for one thought 
> this a bit strange
> Jonas 3543
> P.S. Thanks to Mr. Rob Grady (he was very busy but still took time to 
> help me) for help on this matter.




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 05:22:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Cycling A/C compressor Part II

Just drove 7 hours on I-95. Only time compressor cycled was when I
manually shut off for added power (hills before Richmond). All points
south it just pumped and pumped as happy as could be (R134 thank you
very much).

Regarding your other post: cut off switch is a LOW pressure switch. If
system becomes clogged with ice, high side pressure DROPS. Hence the
cycled compressor. Only way to get high side into hundreds of PSI is
with refrigeration cycle.

You've also got cart a little before the horse. Freon boils just fine
without any outside help. Compressor changes gas to liquid, not other
way around.

Purpose of compressor is to raise pressure in condensor high enough
for freon to re-liquify (it's pumping the same gas that just left the
evaporator). On a Lincoln covers distance less than two feet. 200 PSI
starts AFTER condensor. That's why those lines made of metal, not
hose. Local A/C mechanic claims latent energy in freon trying to boil,
but slowed by orifice, creates pressure.

Re: high compressor pressure blowing system apart (bad news there is
compressor output really isn't all that strong) -- my car has no HIGH
pressure switch, only a low one. If I'm reading archives correctly, am
not alone. High pressure switch appears to be late VIN addition, not
part of original design.
 
BTW: Does anybody know rating of low pressure switch? Translates into
25+ PSI on low side burning R134 (clear system).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> NOT SO! I'm sure you did not hear their comments completely. It is 
> called a CCOTT system because it stands for Clutch Cycling Orifice 
> Tube Type system. Note the word cycling. Also, if you read the 
> second paragraph on page N:01:01 it explains how the system 
> operates. I'm sure the intent of their statements were - on a hot 
> day the clutch may rarely cycle - which I would say it correct.
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> -- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> > I just got my A/C recharged by a place that just works on cooling 
> systems and they said
> > the compressor will only cycle if it is low on freon, DMCH also 
> agreed. The compressor
> > should never cycle.
> > 
> > Mark




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:03:59 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Front hood corners not straight

It might just be that QAC had a heck of a job getting the panels to 
line up properly with the fascias when the car first rolled off the 
assembly line and arrived in the US. As much as you can adjust one 
side perfectly, it might not always line up correctly on the other  
side. As much as most of my rear fascia lines up pretty decent now, 
I noticed that the front corners of the hood seem to raise upward a 
little. I pressed down on them but it appears that the hood is 
perfectly flat but the fascia is slightly rounded. Anybody else ru 
into this and if so, what might have ccaused it and is there a fix 
for this??
JohnE
10250





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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 12:15:22 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de
Subject: Re: Rear view electric mirrors.

Jordan, if you make it to my place this weekend, I can help you to find that
gremlin.
I already went thru all this. 
No firclips needed.

Elvis

> Hello all:
> 
>    I wasnt going to post anything about this until the
> new switch came in from delorean.  There was not
> argument that the old switch/joystick was broke since
> it was found in 3 pieces.
> 
>    With the new switch in, the driver side mirror
> seems to work ok, (IS IT NORMAL FOR IT TO BE THAT
> LOUD).  Im getting nothing from the passenger side.
> 
> Ive established a couple of things.
> 
> 1: There's power to the switch that controls both
> sides
> 2: The switch works in all directions.
> 3: The passanger mirror does not respond to the
> switch.
> 
> and possible conclusions
> 
> 1: There is no power making it to the passanger side.
> 2: There is power, but the mirror motor is broken.
> 
> Here lies the question.
> 
> 1:  what would be the best place to check for power on
> the pass side (barring removing the mirror).  Is there
> a harness in the arm rest as well, under the blanking
> cap?
> 
> 2:  If it is the mirror motor, does anyone know the
> best way to remove that thin panel to get at the
> mirror screws?  Should I order new fir clips before
> taking this off?
> 
> thanx
> 
> jordan 11613  

-- 
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more  http://www.gmx.net +++
Bitte lächeln! Fotogalerie online mit GMX ohne eigene Homepage!




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:09:56 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Air intake performance

Because of a destroyed hose between the sensor and the filterbox, I 
had my car running without these items for a month or so. I can't 
say that the car ran smoothly without the flow sensor. Now that I 
hooked up the stove connection and the remaining hose to the filter 
unit, it feels that the car runs better. Somebody had told me 
earlier that in hot weather, this hot/cold air mixture apparatus is 
useless. Have an opinion? Let me know what you think.
JohnE
10250





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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 05:33:29 -0700
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf_at_dml_charter.net>
Subject: RE: Vin 1880 Sold to young driver

HI Ken,
	I couldn't resist responding to that one.  However at the moment I am 82
but next year at Pigeon Forge I will be 83, so I guess your estimate of 86
is close enough for now!   I don't know about 18 year olds but can vouch for
the "older" persons interests.   I have had mine going on seven years now
and drive it almost daily.  It is NEVER out of the garage unless I am
driving it so it stays immaculate always.   It had 3K miles when I got it
and is UP TO 8k now!!   This is a small town so mileage does not add up
much!!
	We have reservations for Pigeon Forge and you will recognize ME because I
will be 8 inches taller than anyone else.  I will be on my Segway HT going
to and fro!  You can go ahead and have my name engraved on the Oldest
Owner/Driver  plaque!  Ho Ho.    I always wished that oldest/youngest last
year at Memphis had been able to have their pix taken together   18 and 81
!!!
	Best regards,
		Murray Fisher
		Vin: 05962
		Lic:  DMC-XII
		Walla Walla, WA




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 12:55:30 +0000
From: "David Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Verizon and BTTF

A while back someone was kind enough to provide the website for downloading 
BTTF music to a Sprint phone.  Does anyone have a site for a Verizon phone?

Thanks,
David Silek.

Front Royal and Fairfax, VA

_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus




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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 13:36:52 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: A/C Pop DeLo A/C Anomalies

Remember reading old posts Re: high pressure A/C switch inside
DRIVER'S wheel well. My compressor output line is defenitely
uninterrupted there...

Stuck head inside passenger wheel well on way to work. Never really
worried about anything in there other than heater core because my R134
conversion went smoothly (unlike Dave Swingle, I jump compressor
inside engine compartment)...

Despite wiring diagram, are two indeed two electrical connections, and
what appears to be a pop off valve. What has me confused is
accumulator is in low pressure return line (what does it accumulate?
Gas? Old Lincoln accumulators are at bottom of condensor and store
liquid freon) and switch in it is 3 conductor. Wiring diagram clearly
shows 2 conductor low pressure switch. If 3 conductor switch is low
pressure, indeed opens at 25+ PSI, but what is third electrical line
for? If 2 conductor switch is low pressure (correct me if I'm wrong
Louie G, but didn't we force your compressor on there in SC), is on
high side as I originally claimed, but what in the world is that
switch in accumulator?

Will fire up DeLo at lunch and experiment with switches...

Bill Robertson
#5939








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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 16:09:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: DeLo A/C identical to GM, not Ford

Fellow just stopped by Railroad with an '89 GMC truck. His A/C is
configured identical to DeLorean, including accumulator AFTER
evaporator. I guess it does accumulate gas (was dripping with
condensation). Why? Has already been metered and boiled. His low
pressure switch was on side of accumulator like 3 conductor DeLo, but
only two lines. Still plan to experiment with that one at lunch.

Old Ford A/C is all suction driven. Compressor INPUT is heart of
system. Rather than orifice tube, which appears to respond to high
side pressure, uses a "throttle suctioning valve" which responds to
low side (is located after evaporator). Actual pressure change occurs
at an expansion valve, but it just closes, not meters.

JZD was an old GM man, but he didn't personally design car...

Oh, this fellow also had problem losing refrigeration cycle in traffic
(engine mounted fan), so he added an electric fan in front of
condensor. Is tied to compresor clutch line. Odd, but works. Not
applicable to DeLorean I know, but anyone converting a different
marque in their stable might consider same.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 11:05:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Re: Re: fan failure,I though this was strange

On Wed, 25 Jun 2003, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> A Fanzilla can tell you if 1 or both fans are not working so you won't
> get surprised again. This is what the fan fail relay was SUPPOSED to do
> and the bypass wire cannot.

If I'm not mistaken, the FanZilla only notifies you if one of its own
fuses blows, not if a fan motor fails.  I had one fan motor fail on my
FanZilla-equipped car and it didn't make a peep.  I didn't even notice
until summer rolled around and the engine overheated.

Check those fans regularly, even if you have a FanZilla!

-andrew
 #4115
 Houston TX



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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 17:09:34 -0000
From: "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Parade question

I will be driving 2105 in a parade for the first time. Any advice for driving  in "parade 
stance" with the doors up ?  Any other owners in the Salem Oregon are want to join 
me so I'm not the only D in the parade? I contacted the other D owner in town to see 
if he wants to join me. Parade is July 12th
Phil Priestley




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 15:19:24 -0500
From: Gus Schlachter <gus_at_dml_austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage

Drain the gas?  Remove the battery??!??

While these suggstions are all fine and good, this advice is being given to the person
who is usually the passenger in the DMC, right?  While women are perfectly capable of
performing automotive mechanical chores, there is an underlying social bias here.  As a
kid, I played with my dad's tools while my sister played with Barbie.  She never played
with the tools, and the only time I played with the dolls was when I was using the tools
on them.  :-)

Soooo.....

Sounds like bad gas is the biggest worry, and any gas stabilizer sold at a major auto
parts store will slow the effect of gas storage.  Easy and takes 5 minutes.

If you are really concerned about the battery, I have used a Battery Tender to charge a
dead battery and keep it stored for months:

   http://batterytender.com/product_info.php?products_id=2

You don't even need access to the battery.  Open the louvers, pop the engine cover, clip
red onto the positive post (right side, in the wall, big red cable) and the black onto a
clean metal part of the engine.

Periodic starting may or may not be advisable but all will agree that letting it run for
only a minute or two will do more harm than good; it must at least reach warmed-up
temperature for any benefit.  Make sure the garage door is open when you do this.  Air
good, carbon monoxide bad.

If the car is going to be stored for more than a few months then there are more steps
that should be taken (tire pressure, etc.).  If you are uncomfortable driving it or
doing anything complicated, I'm certain that if there is someone on this list within 50
miles of you they would be glad to help.


Good luck,

Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX



David Teitelbaum wrote:

> I don't like fuel stabilizers. I have seen too many times where a car
> was put into storage and 6 months turned into years. The safest thing
> is to drain the gas....




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 20:30:01 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Parade question

Phil - I have been in countless parades, and do the vast majority of 
them with the doors up.  If the torsion bar's are not properly 
adjusted, or the struts are weak, you may get the dreaded "droopy 
door" syndrome.  A quick solution is to attach a black tarp strap 
between the two doors to keep them up.  Be careful not to scratch or 
otherwise damage the struts.  Try to avoid jerky starts - keep your 
motion smooth, and you shouldn't have any problems.  With the doors 
up, you have great interaction with the crowd.  The last parade that I 
was in was in Spokane, Washington on May 17th.  The crowd was 
estimated at 30,000 people.  We had five DeLoreans in the parade.  
They loved us!  Have fun.  Let the List know how it turned out for 
you.  Remember - Elbow, elbow ... wrist, wrist!

PS - Do you have an automatic or manual?  If you have the 5-speed, 
pray that the parade route is mostly downhill.  Otherwise, prepare for 
a workout on your left leg, and some unavoidable clutch wear.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I will be driving 2105 in a parade for the first time. Any advice 
for driving  in "parade 
> stance" with the doors up ?  Any other owners in the Salem Oregon 
are want to join 
> me so I'm not the only D in the parade? I contacted the other D 
owner in town to see 
> if he wants to join me. Parade is July 12th
> Phil Priestley




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 16:47:46 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Front hood corners not straight

I saw this too on my car and determined that if you look under the hood, you
will see a tab on each corner that has not been folded over the hood.  have
someone press on the hood and then with pliers or similar tool simply bend
the tab back on the plastic underpart of the hood and the outer skin should
now be straight.  Like when you install a radio and the cage needs you to
press out the tabs on either side so the cage can grip the opening.

Joseph Molino
vin 2850

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 3:03 AM
Subject: [DML] Front hood corners not straight


> It might just be that QAC had a heck of a job getting the panels to
> line up properly with the fascias when the car first rolled off the
> assembly line and arrived in the US. As much as you can adjust one
> side perfectly, it might not always line up correctly on the other
> side. As much as most of my rear fascia lines up pretty decent now,
> I noticed that the front corners of the hood seem to raise upward a
> little. I pressed down on them but it appears that the hood is
> perfectly flat but the fascia is slightly rounded. Anybody else ru
> into this and if so, what might have ccaused it and is there a fix
> for this??
> JohnE
> 10250
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 19:30:31 +0200
From: Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_delorean.ch>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance

Hi John

> Now that I hooked up the stove connection and the remaining hose
> to the filter unit, it feels that the car runs better. Somebody
> had told me earlier that in hot weather, this hot/cold air mixture
> apparatus is useless. Have an opinion?

I came to the same conclusion: if you drive mainly in warm weather,
it's not only useless but a performance impact. I also removed the
mixture valve (which decreases air flow diameter by about a third,
if you have a look at it) and I'm very pleased with the result.
Before the change, flooring the pedal didn't do much better than
just-not flooring it (ehm stupid to explain...), but afterwards
there came more out of it when floored.
So my mixture valve became a nice, cosy spot on the shelf in the garage 
;-)

Cheers, Roland
VIN 11512




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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 21:30:08 -0000
From: "mcydrake" <mikedrake_at_dml_covegroup.com>
Subject: getting together

hi all, Is there anyone who is reading this that is from Rhode 
Island or in connecticut (prefereably south eastern) if so would you 
email me please, no reason to take up my personal endevors with the 
whole US (and more) thank




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:23:51 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin_at_dml_madisontelco.com>
Subject: Re: Parade question

> I will be driving 2105 in a parade for the first time.
> Any advice for driving  in "parade stance" with the doors up ?

The doors shouldn't be much of a problem at such low speeds (although just
to be safe, I'd hang on to the pull strap during turns).  The main thing
you'll want to think about in preparation for the parade is your cooling
system.  When driving down the highway, you've got a lot of air moving over
your radiator...but at the snail's pace of a parade, you'll be relying
solely on your fans to keep your temperature in check.  Hopefully you've
done the necessary upgrades to your relays and circuit breakers, because
this will be a real strain on them.  If you haven't purchased a FanZilla
yet, you might want to consider it.  It's a little pricey, but not as much
as a new engine.  :-)

Good luck,

_______________
Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681





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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:56:10 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage

 There are stories around that using a tender while the battery is still
hooked up in the car can create an electrolysis situation with the aluminum
engine and it's proximity to other metals. I can't remember which DeLorean
vendor told me this but I was told they'd seen engine blocks eaten away
inside. Whether it was from a battery tender, extremly old antifreeze or a
combination of the two I can't say but I think I'd prefer to disconnect the
battery prior to hooking up the tender to be on the safe side.

Bruce Benson

> If you are really concerned about the battery, I have used a Battery
Tender to charge a
> dead battery and keep it stored for months:
>
>    http://batterytender.com/product_info.php?products_id=2
>
> You don't even need access to the battery.  Open the louvers, pop the
engine cover, clip
> red onto the positive post (right side, in the wall, big red cable) and
the black onto a
> clean metal part of the engine.




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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 21:10:26 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)

As a computer scientist, I would recommend that you stick to HTML/CSS for you 
website. Use as little Javascript as possible as not all browsers do the same 
thing with it. If you use Javascript, attempt to stay with the ECMAscript 
subset, and try to make the site render in a sane way if the Javascript does 
not run.

Sincerely, Warren

-- 
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 03:28:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Parade question

Be careful going over bumps or holes in the road with the doors up.
Also don't let anyone get to close as you pass by or they might get
hit in the head. You also won't have use of the outside rear view
mirrors so you have to watch all around. Do not take any turns fast
with the doors open. Slow and easy and you will be fine. If your
cooling system isn't in perfect order keep an eye on the temp gauge
and a good idea would be to leave the carpet and the cover off over
the relays and fuses behind the passenger seat so things don't get TOO
hot and you can watch it. Don't run the A/C, it won't work very well
with the doors open because it blows INTO the doors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "vin2105" <phil_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> I will be driving 2105 in a parade for the first time. Any advice
for driving  in "parade 
> stance" with the doors up ?  Any other owners in the Salem Oregon
are want to join 
> me so I'm not the only D in the parade? I contacted the other D
owner in town to see 
> if he wants to join me. Parade is July 12th
> Phil Priestley




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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:50:31 EDT
From: pbnorton_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Re: Was Re: Question from an owner's wife- Now Storage

I want to thank all of you for your responses but mostly for your support of 
my soldier!  He called from Iraq today and we discussed the battery situation. 
 A friend of ours is coming over to help and we figure the worse that can 
happen is that we buy a new battery when he returns.

Thanks again for the input.  I'm confused and overwhelmed but truly 
appreciate your willingness to help.  And yes, not to stereotype, but I am a passenger 
in the Delorean...I prefer my minivan! (-:

Phyllis


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