From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1559
Date: Thursday, June 26, 2003 10:31 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Apologies for any misinformation
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Front hood corners not straight
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

3. Re: Air intake performance
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>

4. Re: Air intake performance
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Torque question
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

6. Re: Re: fan failure,I though this was strange
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

7. Bob Zilla, can you confirm? Was: fan failure,I though this was strange
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

8. Re: Air intake performance
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

9. Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)
From: "Chris Tanner" <chris.tanner_at_dml_webhelp.com>

10. Venting outside air over engine
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

11. Re: Air intake performance
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

12. Re: Air intake performance
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Re: Front hood corners not straight
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

14. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

15. RE: Venting outside air over engine
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

16. Re: Air intake performance
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Voltage at coil
From: "miltdanfoss" <d_at_dml_nfoss.com>

18. Re: Torque question / Exhaust
From: "Chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>

19. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>

20. Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. hehe...It's about time
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>

22. Looking for a Dead Pedal
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

23. Steering rack stiction
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

24. Re: Looking for a Dead Pedal
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>

25. Re: Torque question
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 04:18:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Apologies for any misinformation

It's been a busy 24 hours...

Have decided Laurinburg's suppposed A/C guru isn't so wise after all.
Took much of what he said as Gospel. Now will not repeat ANYTHING he
says. Yes, he's been messing with A/C longer than any of us, but
really don't think he's got the full grasp:

Asked following questions at lunch:
Why is DeLo accumulator on low side where nothing is being metered?
If high pressure occurs after liquification, why is DeLo high pressure
port BEFORE condensor?
He honestly couldn't answer, and proclaimed DeLorean a hopeless anomaly
So...

Stopped by GMC truck owner's house after work to really examine its
system. IS 100% IDENTICAL! (high side gauge port further down line).
Uses orifice tube metering device. Accumulator located AFTER
evaporator (that one still has me befuddled) with a low pressure
switch. Etc. If you can work on GM A/C, you can work on DeLorean.
Systems are totally the same.

Also examined my pressure switches at lunch. Low pressure switch
indeed two conductor -- just has extra line taking off elsewhere from
one terminal. High pressure switch is odd -- CLOSES at normal
pressure, but OPENS when there's a fault. Totally backwards of what
you'd expect. Fired up A/C and water poured off my accumulator -- no
doubt is on low side.

Also popped hood of one of the Lincolns and guess what I found on
compressor -- a pop off valve! Never noticed before. Looks just like
DeLo valve. Guess that's where Ford decided to put high pressure
protection. Rest of system of course totally DIFFERENT from DeLorean...

Background info: back in my R12 days took a new-to-me Lincoln to 3
different shops to make A/C work. No one could do it. That's how I was
introduced to Guru. If anyone could do it, he could. Well, he replaced
every single component (am sure that's why Two Tone Lincoln's A/C now
outperforms all the others) and still couldn't make cold air come out.
Car was proclaimed hopeless. I sat down with factory literature to
study the situation, and that's when it hit me: CAR HAD NO LOW SIDE
PORT. What everyone had been using as a low side port was really just
a guage attachment to diagnose throttle suctioning valve. In
subsequent trips to junkyards popped hoods of every '79 Ford -- not a
single low side port on any! Ford did not use low side ports in 1979.
Unfortunately my factory literature is 1978, so I have no idea how
they suggested anyone charge the system. Transplanted a low side hose
from a '72 LTD (so much for theory that hoses themselves become
pourous and leak). Also converted to R134 because that's all I could
buy (tools and freon). Imagine thrill when ICE cold air hit me in face
(from my "hopeless" car). Sealed the fate -- subsequent cars or failed
systems have all been converted to R134. Now have only one vehicle
still burning R12: an old blue AMC that will soon be given to my
little brother...

Again, apologies if any misinformation was repeated. Physics of freon
remain unchanged (evaporates even colder than freezing point of water,
condenses back to a liquid under pressure, etc), but some of the finer
points were definitely off. A clogged system will NOT return to static
pressure. High pressure is high pressure whether freon is liquid or gas. 

And I just had a thought: does location of GM/DeLorean accumulators
have anything to do with cycling compressor? While the thing is
sucking obviously no freon is going to accumulate. But if it cycles
off, does accumulator give evaporating gas a place to expand until
compressor comes back on? Kind of like fuel accumulator? Would allow
system to continue cooling. Don't know, but it's in that particular
location for SOME reason.

Bill Robertson
#5939






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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 06:13:28 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: Front hood corners not straight

Joseph,
Thanks for that info!!! Even now at 11pm I want to have a look at 
the hood and check it out but I will wait till tomorrow when it is 
lighter out and have a better look. This is exactly the reason why 
this forum exists!! All these small issues can be addressed so 
promptly when the right person replies to the message. Hooray for 
the DML!!
JohnE
10250





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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 06:20:55 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance

I will do just that!! With collector plates in BC, Canada, I have to 
adhere to ICBC strict rules of keeping the car in perfect stock 
condition so the insurance will not void in case of an accident. 
Putting everything back into its normal place is just fine but maybe 
I will just pack the low-performance OEM items in the trunk. In 
theory, the parts are still "in the car", in use or packed away!
Thanks again!!
John 
10250
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi John
> 
> > Now that I hooked up the stove connection and the remaining hose
> > to the filter unit, it feels that the car runs better. Somebody
> > had told me earlier that in hot weather, this hot/cold air 
mixture
> > apparatus is useless. Have an opinion?
> 
> I came to the same conclusion: if you drive mainly in warm weather,
> it's not only useless but a performance impact. I also removed the
> mixture valve (which decreases air flow diameter by about a third,
> if you have a look at it) and I'm very pleased with the result.
> Before the change, flooring the pedal didn't do much better than
> just-not flooring it (ehm stupid to explain...), but afterwards
> there came more out of it when floored.
> So my mixture valve became a nice, cosy spot on the shelf in the 
garage 
> ;-)
> 
> Cheers, Roland
> VIN 11512




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 12:25:23 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance

I hear this a lot, regarding the mixture valve. I haven't driven my D 
yet enough to know either way, but I have an idea about another 
complaint that I've heard a lot of...

Most people I talk to say the PRV runs hot. Most say they'd like them 
to run cooler or have better airflow in the engine compartment.
Isn't there a way to turn at least that passenger side breather gill 
for the hot/cold air mixture valve into some kind of vent that washes 
air over the engine? Perhaps some kind of duct, or maybe even a small 
electric fan with a diverter?

I realize the engine doesn't see much air movement being mounted in 
the rear, but at least the cover is well ventilated, and it has a lot 
of room around it (relatively speaking). I'm suprised to hear folks 
say it runs so hot.

Also, for those who are interested, I've finally got all my 
transmission brackets, clutch lines and pieces all hooked up. I can 
finally get back to the engine/head work (and work standing up, thank 
God) I hope to crank it over during the first week of July.

Ever work on a car so hard, when you're done you're afraid to start 
it up?

Rich
#5335 -MD



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hi John
> 
> > Now that I hooked up the stove connection and the remaining hose
> > to the filter unit, it feels that the car runs better. Somebody
> > had told me earlier that in hot weather, this hot/cold air mixture
> > apparatus is useless. Have an opinion?
> 
> I came to the same conclusion: if you drive mainly in warm weather,
> it's not only useless but a performance impact. I also removed the
> mixture valve (which decreases air flow diameter by about a third,
> if you have a look at it) and I'm very pleased with the result.
> Before the change, flooring the pedal didn't do much better than
> just-not flooring it (ehm stupid to explain...), but afterwards
> there came more out of it when floored.
> So my mixture valve became a nice, cosy spot on the shelf in the 
garage 
> ;-)
> 
> Cheers, Roland
> VIN 11512




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 08:38:07 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: Torque question

The process for removing the exhaust manifold has begun. Tuesday I began
spraying all the bolts with penetrating oil and will be doing it every night
until I actually get time to take them off.

My question is this:

What are the torque settings for the exhaust manifold?



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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 13:58:41 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: fan failure,I though this was strange

On my car both fans quit on exactly the same day, and both were cured by 
a tap from a hammer. My car had 5000 miles on it and with British 
weather, the fans don't get used much... Both are still working fine now 
with nearly 10k on the clock and with AC functioning too.

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>What most likely happened is 1 fan quit and you didn't notice it until
>the 2nd one died and now you have neither fan operating. This is not
>so unusual as both fans have the same run-time so they wear evenly.
>





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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 14:03:59 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Bob Zilla, can you confirm? Was: fan failure,I though this was strange

If what Andrew says is corect, I would say this is a bit of an oversight 
- the fans are just as likely to have their wires pulled out than of 
getting jammed and drawing too much current. Surely the fan-fail light 
should tell you if one or both fans have gone either short or open 
circuit? - I know the original device didn't, however it was something I 
designed in to my Fan controller module.  Can you confirm, Bob?

Martin
#1458
#4426


Andrew wrote:

>If I'm not mistaken, the FanZilla only notifies you if one of its own
>fuses blows, not if a fan motor fails.  I had one fan motor fail on my
>FanZilla-equipped car and it didn't make a peep.  I didn't even notice
>until summer rolled around and the engine overheated.
>
>Check those fans regularly, even if you have a FanZilla!
>
>-andrew
> #4115
> Houston TX
>
>
>  
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 14:01:49 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Most people I talk to say the PRV runs hot. Most say they'd like 
them 
> to run cooler or have better airflow in the engine compartment.
> Isn't there a way to turn at least that passenger side breather 
gill 
> for the hot/cold air mixture valve into some kind of vent that 
washes 
> air over the engine?
<SNIP>

For as long as I've owned my DeLorean, I've never seen the car run 
hot, unless I've had a radiator fan go out. And then I can tell, 
because the needle passes the 220 mark. Otherwise, the temp always 
stays low. Depending upon ambient temperature outside, the needle for 
the coolant temp may not fall quickly like it does in the winter, but 
the motor does stay cool. Then again, when I first got my car, I had 
the all metal, 3-row radiator installed, and most importantly, the 
cooling system is totally bled in my car.

It doesn't matter wheather or not you use the automatic bleeder kit, 
or you bleed the system manually. You just need to bleed it. That I 
would consider to be far more important than air flow across the 
engine. Although, I don't even really know how much airflow over a 
motor really helps at all. Lifting the hood on a conventional car, 
and the engine cover on a DeLorean, both engine compartments have 
always felt just as warm to me.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:29:50 -0400
From: "Chris Tanner" <chris.tanner_at_dml_webhelp.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)

Moderator's note: some of the computer tech stuff is drifting away from the subject line of the mailing list. If I can't find a DeLorean connection it may not get posted.


Hi,

I'm a long time lurker, but this one thread has caused me to come out of the
cave. I've been working in the .com industry (for better and worse) for
eight years, since browser versions 3.x and such. Where I work we have 98%
user IE5 and 6 usage, 1.9% Netscape of various flavours. I say use all the
Javascript you want, as long as it's done well. There's no reason at all to
suppose that properly written and tested JS will bork browsers. We run a
sophisticated web based tool set and it has been tested on pretty much every
graphical based browser out there, even AOL 6.0 using a dialup connection on
a Mac (the acid test).

The moral of the story is, as with anything... if you're going to do
something, do it really well. Sort of the attitude that most everyone takes
when dealing with their DMC.

While I'm here I'll also say to the person that mentioned about two weeks
ago that they can't stand Montreal: I've been living in Montreal since March
of 2002 and can attest to the fact that it is an incredible city!
Incidentally are there any DMC owners in Montreal?

Cheers,
Chris

VIN -  Sooner rather than later
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 21:10:26 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)

As a computer scientist, I would recommend that you stick to HTML/CSS for
you
website. Use as little Javascript as possible as not all browsers do the
same
thing with it. If you use Javascript, attempt to stay with the ECMAscript
subset, and try to make the site render in a sane way if the Javascript does
not run.

Sincerely, Warren

--
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org





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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 15:57:28 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Venting outside air over engine

Would love to route some air over my engine too, but don't think
passenger side grill is the location. Engine intake really has to be
connected to outside world. At 95 degrees, on a treeless highway, with
hot freon in the condensor, and coolant above 220, my fuel mixture
will predetonate (full throttle) if it's breathing under the hood.
Guess hot air is last straw. Did clear up at higher octane (suggestion
for summer driving).

Even though our engine compartments are brutal, are plenty of DeLo's
that have been driven 100,000 miles that way. Probably pushed the
limits of heat endurance, but they made it. Given lack of options
(other than Q panel vents, where would re-routed air come from?), best
option may be to keep cooling system at peak maintenance and lubricate
with heaviest possible oil. Driving on the edge.

BTW: actual condition after purchase of cooling system in my
advertised "maintained" car makes me wonder if a future rash of heat
related failures, akin to recent TAB problems, is waiting.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I hear this a lot, regarding the mixture valve. I haven't driven my D 
> yet enough to know either way, but I have an idea about another 
> complaint that I've heard a lot of...
> 
> Most people I talk to say the PRV runs hot. Most say they'd like them 
> to run cooler or have better airflow in the engine compartment.
> Isn't there a way to turn at least that passenger side breather gill 
> for the hot/cold air mixture valve into some kind of vent that washes 
> air over the engine? Perhaps some kind of duct, or maybe even a small 
> electric fan with a diverter?
> 
> I realize the engine doesn't see much air movement being mounted in 
> the rear, but at least the cover is well ventilated, and it has a lot 
> of room around it (relatively speaking). I'm suprised to hear folks 
> say it runs so hot.
> 
> Also, for those who are interested, I've finally got all my 
> transmission brackets, clutch lines and pieces all hooked up. I can 
> finally get back to the engine/head work (and work standing up, thank 
> God) I hope to crank it over during the first week of July.
> 
> Ever work on a car so hard, when you're done you're afraid to start 
> it up?
> 
> Rich
> #5335 -MD
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Roland Barmettler <roli_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Hi John
> > 
> > > Now that I hooked up the stove connection and the remaining hose
> > > to the filter unit, it feels that the car runs better. Somebody
> > > had told me earlier that in hot weather, this hot/cold air mixture
> > > apparatus is useless. Have an opinion?
> > 
> > I came to the same conclusion: if you drive mainly in warm weather,
> > it's not only useless but a performance impact. I also removed the
> > mixture valve (which decreases air flow diameter by about a third,
> > if you have a look at it) and I'm very pleased with the result.
> > Before the change, flooring the pedal didn't do much better than
> > just-not flooring it (ehm stupid to explain...), but afterwards
> > there came more out of it when floored.
> > So my mixture valve became a nice, cosy spot on the shelf in the 
> garage 
> > ;-)
> > 
> > Cheers, Roland
> > VIN 11512




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 16:19:36 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance

I hear what you're saying. I'm just recounting what others have said 
to me. For instance, Bill Robertson seemed to think his engine was 
hot, but I was near it right after he arrived, and I didn't think so. 
He'll correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure...;)

I've only heard about this "other" radiator in passing. What's it 
made out of? Who sells it and what does it cost? I have been educated 
with regards to the importance of bleeding the cooling system, and I 
plan on buying a constant bleed kit from a vendor. I don't understand 
your reference to bleeding the system from inside the car however, or 
do you just mean to say that your system is always bled?

Rich
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> 
wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > Most people I talk to say the PRV runs hot. Most say they'd like 
> them 
> > to run cooler or have better airflow in the engine compartment.
> > Isn't there a way to turn at least that passenger side breather 
> gill 
> > for the hot/cold air mixture valve into some kind of vent that 
> washes 
> > air over the engine?
> <SNIP>
> 
> For as long as I've owned my DeLorean, I've never seen the car run 
> hot, unless I've had a radiator fan go out. And then I can tell, 
> because the needle passes the 220 mark. Otherwise, the temp always 
> stays low. Depending upon ambient temperature outside, the needle 
for 
> the coolant temp may not fall quickly like it does in the winter, 
but 
> the motor does stay cool. Then again, when I first got my car, I 
had 
> the all metal, 3-row radiator installed, and most importantly, the 
> cooling system is totally bled in my car.
> 
> It doesn't matter wheather or not you use the automatic bleeder 
kit, 
> or you bleed the system manually. You just need to bleed it. That I 
> would consider to be far more important than air flow across the 
> engine. Although, I don't even really know how much airflow over a 
> motor really helps at all. Lifting the hood on a conventional car, 
> and the engine cover on a DeLorean, both engine compartments have 
> always felt just as warm to me.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 18:18:06 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance

Removing the entire assembly yields the best performance gains.  The 
difference is night & day!!!

I'm sure the dust entering the intake is ruining my internals...

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Before the change, flooring the pedal didn't do much better than
> > just-not flooring it (ehm stupid to explain...), but afterwards
> > there came more out of it when floored.




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 15:09:04 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Front hood corners not straight

no problem.  tell me how it works out and if you understood what I said.  I
have a cold and I may have sent gibberish.

thanks again,

Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean_at_dml_telus.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 2:13 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Front hood corners not straight


> Joseph,
> Thanks for that info!!! Even now at 11pm I want to have a look at
> the hood and check it out but I will wait till tomorrow when it is
> lighter out and have a better look. This is exactly the reason why
> this forum exists!! All these small issues can be addressed so
> promptly when the right person replies to the message. Hooray for
> the DML!!
> JohnE
> 10250
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 14:16:39 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine

Intake air and coolant are the important items in maintaining proper engine
temps. The air flowing over the exterior of the engine pays a pretty
insignificant role. The main thing is allowing the heat to dissipate away
from the engine compartment and the Delorean seems able to handle that
pretty well. Coolant temps of 220 degrees are a bit high but aren't that
extreme and I've yet to see a properly tuned DeLorean without a turbocharger
that will pre-detonate at 13 degrees BTC ignition timing. One thing to
remember about the DeLorean is that the fuel tank is directly down wind of
the radiator. Also, the fuel that isn't used recirculates back to the tank
from the engine picking up heat on each go around. Deflecting the radiator
air flow away from the fuel tank would, IMHO, be benificial. Any air routing
in the engine compartment area would be best directed at the intake system
and not simply blowing cool air over the top of the engine. One thing I
found on my car, after several years of road trips, was that the radiator
fins started filling up with dirt and bugs. The AC condeser fins are
spaced wider than the raditor's and the dirt passes through the condeser
but hangs up in the radiator fins. You can't see the front side of the
radiator fins without removing the radiator from the car. Because of it's
location, it's very difficult, if not impossible, to blow out the entire
finned area while it's in the car. When I removed my radiator it was about
30% blocked. I installed a triple core metal tank radiator and have
experianced no heat problems since.

Bruce Benson

> Would love to route some air over my engine too, but don't think
> passenger side grill is the location. Engine intake really has to be
> connected to outside world. At 95 degrees, on a treeless highway, with
> hot freon in the condensor, and coolant above 220, my fuel mixture
> will predetonate (full throttle) if it's breathing under the hood.




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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 15:19:47 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Venting outside air over engine

An interesting phenomenon I encountered when I put the BTTF build on the
back of my car is how much cooler the engine ran while I was driving. When I
built it I left the exhaust vents open to the engine cover vents.  While in
motion, I get a Bernoulli Effect across the top of the vents creating a
vacuum at the back, thus sucking the hot air out of the engine compartment.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: B Benson [mailto:delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 3:17 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine
> 
> Intake air and coolant are the important items in maintaining proper
> engine
> temps. The air flowing over the exterior of the engine pays a pretty
> insignificant role. The main thing is allowing the heat to dissipate away
> from the engine compartment and the Delorean seems able to handle that
> pretty well




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 12:31:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air intake performance


--- thomaspaulmccoy <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Removing the entire assembly yields the best
> performance gains.  !
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

Actually, that isn't quite true.  Almost every article
I've read and dyno charts I have seen show that total
removal of the intake assembly does NOT produce the
best performance gains.

Because I travel over a gravel road almost daily
during the summer, I was getting dust on the throttle
plate and the air filter was "clogging" much more
frequently than desired.  I was also pulling in hot
air off the engine since the twin turbos require the
moving of the alternator and this, in turn, requires
the removal of the stock "intake tube".

I now have the same air intake that Ron Wester has on
his "Screaming Yellow Zonker" DeLorean.  

PURISTS READ NO FURTHER!!!!

Essentially, we cut an opening into the passenger side
rear pontoon and placed a very large K&N filter in the
pontoon.  Then we ran a 3" I.D. tube to a throttle
body cover from a Vortec engine.  

Several things were accomplished by this.  First, I am
now receiving "cold air" very efficiently.  The enigne
breathes very nicely with noticeable gains in
performance and mileage.  Second, the throttle body
plate stays immaculately clean.  Picking up the air
where I now do eliminates the dust sucked up into the
engine compartment.  Also, the new "hat" is held on by
a hose and clamps.  This eliminates the dust seepage
around the o-ring at the throttle body.

IMHO an air flow over the engine will not do much for
cooling the engine.  It would, however, be nice for an
intercooler for those of us with turbos.  

A final thought on "hot engines":  Early in my
DeLorean ownership I experienced overheating on a
somewhat regular basis.  Since switching years ago to
the all metal, triple core radiator and adding the
self bleeder, I have had zero cases of overheating and
that includes being stuck in stop and go traffic in
100+ heat for nearly an hour.

Just my personal experience.

Dick Ryan
VIN 16867

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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:35:49 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <d_at_dml_nfoss.com>
Subject: Voltage at coil

Need a favor.

Can someone measure the voltage at coil position #15 with key on/run 
and car NOT started?

Need to verify that mine is not right.


Dan in Cocoa (3932)





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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 21:24:13 +0100
From: "Chris" <chris_at_dml_internets.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Torque question / Exhaust

Travis

> The process for removing the exhaust manifold has begun. Tuesday I began
> spraying all the bolts with penetrating oil and will be doing it every
night
> until I actually get time to take them off.
I have just done this job and heres a tip...well it worked very well for
me...
Using a decent 11mm 6 point socket apply reasonable torque to the nut then
keep hitting the socket with a hammer and it will give way just a little as
first and just keep tapping away until the nut moves freely. If the nut is
badly corroded to the stud then the stud hopfully will come out complete. If
you do snap any studs they normaly snap at the manifold. When you are left
with studs I strongly recomend getting a decent roller-type stud extractor
like the Facom 287B.7 ( someone on the list said you can get them at Sears
in the US? ) then again apply reasonable torque on the stud  and just keep
tapping with the hammer until it comes free.
I also strongly recomend NOT using any heat unless you really know what you
are doing. I tried heat and it caused me problems with 2 studs,  the other
10 I used this method and it worked perfectly

> What are the torque settings for the exhaust manifold?
Rob Grady told me the manual says 16lb but you can go to 18 tops..he also
said something about not using anti seze on the studs

Id be intrested to know how you get on

Chris S
UK





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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 16:41:05 -0400
From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine

Has anyone tried a roof intake? kinda crazy

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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 15:53:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Java (Was: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!)

I'd like to point out that my site is DeLorean related
and dedicated to the updates and info relating to
restoration of my D and all D's in general. I am not
sponcering a C-Net Debate on HTML ond Java script. If
you have a problem with my site then check your end
because everything works fine here. Can we now end the
browser wars and commence the DeLorean talk once
again? All this jabber about whos "technically"
advance and "knowledgable" is boreing the begeezes
outta me.

End of String.

Todd
Vin 5386
--- Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu> wrote:
> As a computer scientist, I would recommend that you
> stick to HTML/CSS for you 
> website. Use as little Javascript as possible as not
> all browsers do the same 
> thing with it. If you use Javascript, attempt to
> stay with the ECMAscript 
> subset, and try to make the site render in a sane
> way if the Javascript does 
> not run.
> 
> Sincerely, Warren
> 
> -- 
> Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
> http://www.golum.org
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html

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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:20:23 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>
Subject: hehe...It's about time

http://wsmv.com/Global/story.asp?S=1301610&nav=1TcRG7u7

I think any engineers out there will find this refreshing.

Warren
-- 
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 21:32:00 -0400
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Looking for a Dead Pedal

Has anyone run across either a universal dead pedal or one made specifically for the Delorean? Has anyone found one that is close enough to be easily modified to fit?
Thanks,
Jim 6147



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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 21:40:32 -0400
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: Steering rack stiction

My steering rack is sticking now that it's hot and I'm doing all of my driving with the air on. It seems when the car is cool, the steering performs flawlessly, but as it reaches operating temp on 80 degree days, the steering rack seems to heat up from the radiator and begins to exhibit stiction. The wheel sticks where ever you tend to put. I've pulled the pinion cap and loosened the spring tension on the nylon slider by adding 2 custom paper gaskets to raise the pinion cover, but it only delays the effect and makes the steering a little looser when cold. It's been topped off with 90wt gear oil. Any one else experience this feature? Any suggestions. 
Thanks,
Jim 6147



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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 22:12:15 -0400
From: "Bill Lane" <blane_at_dml_triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for a Dead Pedal

Rob Grady sells a Dead Pedal made just for the D.

Bill Lane
vin #3635



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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 02:34:08 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Torque question

I don't believe it is specifically listed in the manual. However, I 
used the M10 bolt spec of 11 lb/ft or 15 Nm. I also put the torque 
to the nuts again about 15 min later because it looked to me like 
the gasket would compress some. I got a bit more movement to the 
torque wrench click. So far so good at about 8,000 miles on the job.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_v...> wrote:
> The process for removing the exhaust manifold has begun. Tuesday I 
began
> spraying all the bolts with penetrating oil and will be doing it 
every night
> until I actually get time to take them off.
> 
> My question is this:
> 
> What are the torque settings for the exhaust manifold?




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