From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1564
Date: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:55 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Low-End Hesitation Update
From: "John Hervey" <>

2. Re: Second plea for voltage on coil
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

3. Re: Re: Uh oh
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

4. Re: Re: Uh oh
From: Martin Gutkowski <>

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:49:23 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Low-End Hesitation Update

Jim, The Delorean control plunger unlike the Mercedes does fall out if
everything is ok. That's normal. Just be very careful with it. There are o
rings inside the plunger sleeve but you can't get to them without taking it
apart. Don't, The unit is ok. The gas came out because the plunger dropped
to low. Put it back in and don't worry about it. There was or is a o ring
type gasket that seals for air leaks on the base of the distributor, be sure
you have it back on. If not, you won't be able to find one of the correct
size in any store. They are special order from Bosch only.
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Reeve []
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 10:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Low-End Hesitation Update

Learned a great deal of information today.

I removed the entire intake manifold this evening.  This is now the
third time I've done it since owning my car and I think I'm getting
quite good at it!  But anyways, I separated the fuel distributor
from the venturi with the assistance of my uncle who is familiar
with Bosch Jetronic Injection Systems.  He was surprised when the
plunger fell out from under it (no it didn't get damaged).  I'm by
far no expert with fuel distributors, and I thought it was normal
for the plunger to come completely out, but my uncle didn't seem to
think so. (he normally works on Mercedes systems).  Once thing we
noticed was a definate fuel leak from the plunger directly down into
the venturi.  There was even a slight pooling of gas on the lower
housing.  Anyone have and ideas if this is easily fixable (a simple
o-ring perhaps?), or do I need a new fuel distributor?  Raw gas
dumping directly into the engine could definately be causing my
hesitation issues.

Cleaning the fuel injectors went well.  They all opened at
approximately equal pressures, and running the cleaner through them
definately cleaned up the spray pattern.

My DeLorean is currently sitting at my uncle's shop with the intake
removed and many parts soaking in cleaner.  I doubt this message
will post and I'll get replies in time for the continuation of the
work tomorrow morning, but you never know.  If anyone has
suggestions, I'm happy to hear them.  Thanks.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:26:42 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Second plea for voltage on coil

It's not that simple - the coil is an inductor which means the voltage 
across it will vary depending on time. In steady-state conditions, eg 
engine not running, 7v sounds maybe a little low* but this depends on 
the state of your battery. Bear in mind that the ballast resistors are 
connected in series with the coil, which is why you don't see the 
battery voltage on it. Also bear in mind hat if properly wired up, that 
relay int he left corner of your engine bay jumps one of the two ballast 
resistors giving the coil a larger share of the voltage during cranking

* Suggest you clean and re-crimp the connectors on the right of your 
ballast resistors (but I haven't been reading this thread so maybe ou've 
done this already).


miltdanfoss wrote:

>Can someoen do me a HUGE favor and measure voltage on the #15 post on 
>the coil? It is marked. 
>One side is #1 one side is #15. You simply put the key in the 
>ignition and put in the on position, then measure voltage with black 
>lead on ground and positive on #15 on coil.
>Mine is 7 VDC, my mechanic friend says it should be 12 VDC (or 
>battery voltage to be precise).
>This would help me in my next troubleshooting step.
>Heck, I'll even throw in a MARS MER-B "Opportunity" Launch Poster for 
>the first person to tell me.
>Dan in Cocoa (3932)


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:32:25 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Re: Uh oh

...which would mean going out and buying a load of special tools he 
probably doesn't already have. I would be amazed if running your car for 
a few hundred miles on chicken soup instead of oil would have damaged 
the bearings enough to warrent a strip-down at this point.

Change the head gaskets, get the heads faced and checked, and bolt them 
back down with new gaskets. Make sure to clean up the surface of the 
block and liners before doing this. See how it runs when you've 
reassembled. I think you'll be happy.

The car I've mentioned in a previous post is now up and running. Almost 
1/3rd of the contents of the sump was water. We've changed the head 
gaskets, had the heads refurbished, and done a lot of the usual servicy 
type stuff including fitting a new water pump.

Took her down the road last night for the first proper run and she "goes 
like a speeding bullet stuck in the back end of a bat out of hell!"


David Teitelbaum wrote:

>If the motor had coolant in the oil and the motor had overheated I
>would recommned pulling the engine down completely. You may not have
>damaged the seals on the liners but the bearings could be wiped out.
>Coolant in the oil makes for a terrible lubricant. At the very least
>you just put more labor and a few more seals into the job. Better than
>doing half a job and having to tear it all down again because you
>didn't go deep enough the first time!
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:41:35 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <>
Subject: Re: Re: Uh oh

cruznmd wrote:

>By and large, the bulk of the email I'm getting off list is telling me
>to just put the dang thing back together and see what happens. :) I'm
>also getting email from folks saying I've gone way further into my
>engine than they ever have. That's frightening considering I've owned
>mine less than a year. Am I just too dumb to know when I'm in over my
I was going to reply to specifics, but basically your first sentence 
says it all. When we did our first head-job, we were on the phone every 
5 minutes to our engine guy. Now we can strip and engine down to the 
block in about 90 minutes.

>Now if I only had a pulley-puller....
You can ease it off with a bit of gentle levering on sequentially 
opposite sides with a pair of decent-sized flat screwdrivers. Just don't 
go/get mad and bend the pulley.

BTW a couple of hints: CHANGE THE TIMING CHAINS. Not because you 
"should" but because you may find for an outlay of less than $30 your 
engine exhibits a whole new lease of life. And secondly, presumably 
you'll be replacing the exhaust manifold before putting the head back on 
the block. MAKE SURE you don't get the little tabs on the bottom of the 
manifold gaskets caught under the head....... (been there, done that)



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to