From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1565
Date: Monday, June 30, 2003 9:52 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Uh oh
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

2. Replacement of front speakers
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Shop Manual CD
From: "phoenix00622002" <barbara0892_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Probing list for interest of D get together in NC
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com

5. LED instrument panel illumination question
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Low End Hesitation Fixed!!!
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>

7. tools
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>

8. Re: Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

9. Tilley's Electric DeLorean
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>

10. RE: Second plea for voltage on coil
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. Re: coil voltage on transistorized ignition
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Mothers Polish Car Show Series
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com

13. AC Problem
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7_at_dml_carolina.rr.com>

14. Window regulator - how to tell what you have!
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. Door Locks
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

16. Re: Replacement of front speakers
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

17. Re: Venting outside air over engine
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. Thought Id startup another howto
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

19. AW: AC Problem
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

20. Re: Window regulator - how to tell what you have!
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. RE: Venting outside air over engine
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

22. Re: tools
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>

23. Tilley's Electric DeLorean Delorean Car Show
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

24. DMC manuals PDF project
From: "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

25. Re: AC Problem
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:52:44 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Uh oh

Funny that Dave T should recommend that I yank the block and just do 
the whole thing. That's what I wanted to do from the very start but 
everyone told me I "didn't need to do all that".

That's ok. At the end of the day, I know who's responsible for the 
decisions I've made. Me.

Now as far as running the engine for only a few hundred miles with 
thinned out oil and coolant, you guys haven't been paying 
attention. :) I haven't -driven- mine yet. I've only idled it in 
front of my house. I -immediately- stopped runnning it when it barfed 
coolant/oil on the ground. Well..2 laps around my development parking 
lot. But that was it.

Martin, I don't quite understand the part about the manifold gaskets. 
I'll test fit them today and see if I can finger it out.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> 
wrote:
> 
> 
> cruznmd wrote:
> 
> >By and large, the bulk of the email I'm getting off list is 
telling me
> >to just put the dang thing back together and see what happens. :) 
I'm
> >also getting email from folks saying I've gone way further into my
> >engine than they ever have. That's frightening considering I've 
owned
> >mine less than a year. Am I just too dumb to know when I'm in over 
my
> >head?
> >
> I was going to reply to specifics, but basically your first 
sentence 
> says it all. When we did our first head-job, we were on the phone 
every 
> 5 minutes to our engine guy. Now we can strip and engine down to 
the 
> block in about 90 minutes.
> 
> >Now if I only had a pulley-puller....
> >
> You can ease it off with a bit of gentle levering on sequentially 
> opposite sides with a pair of decent-sized flat screwdrivers. Just 
don't 
> go/get mad and bend the pulley.
> 
> BTW a couple of hints: CHANGE THE TIMING CHAINS. Not because you 
> "should" but because you may find for an outlay of less than $30 
your 
> engine exhibits a whole new lease of life. And secondly, presumably 
> you'll be replacing the exhaust manifold before putting the head 
back on 
> the block. MAKE SURE you don't get the little tabs on the bottom of 
the 
> manifold gaskets caught under the head....... (been there, done 
that)
> 
> Martin




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 06:05:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Replacement of front speakers

Hello all:

   I have confirmed that my driver side front speaker
is dead, and not the fault of the radio.  I figure I
might as well replace both.  It seems almost too easy
to get to from the bottom but I have this feeling that
to remove them, i have to take the whole dash apart. 
Does anyone know the easiest way to get at these
speakers for replacement?


thanx  

jordan 11613

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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:42:07 -0000
From: "phoenix00622002" <barbara0892_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Shop Manual CD

I was wondering if the Delorean shop manual or any other info put on 
a CD. Also what are the best manuals and where can they be bought. 
What is the last known serial number produced?

AJ & Barbara
VIN#15500




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 13:25:31 EDT
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Probing list for interest of D get together in NC

Myself and fellow list member Louie Golden have been pondering a possible D 
gathering somewhere in North Carolina, possibly in the Triad area 
(Winston-Salem, Greensboro, and High Point) or Charlotte area depending on interest.  This 
is an open invitation for anyone (owners and enthusiasts) for a weekend in 
late July or early August.  In the past it has been extremely difficult to get 
anyone to participate in this area despite the fact there is a large 
concentration of D's in the area.  Please contact me directly if you have interest or 
even ideas about meeting areas and/or things to do during this proposed meet.  
Use the following email:  Iznodmad(at)aol.com

Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 04:02:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: LED instrument panel illumination question

Was there not some recent discussion along lines of LED instrument
panel illumination? I'll search archives, but just in case I come up
empty...

One of my Lincolns has lost most of the little tabs that hold blue
filters for instrument bulbs (old brittle heat fried plastic). Before
I reverse engineer new holding arrangement, has anyone had success
with 194 sized LED's in an instrument panel? Am particularly concerned
with intensity and evenness of illumination compared to bulbs. Would
be a lot easier simply to change color at the sockets.

Prefer LED's over colored 194 bulbs to limit future heat damage.

Want to go back with traditional green BTW.

Bill Robertson
#5939







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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 20:59:02 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra_at_dml_isd.net>
Subject: Low End Hesitation Fixed!!!

Well, it was a grueling day yesterday, which continued into today, 
but 06960 is back up and running once again!

What did we do?  More like what DIDN'T we do.

Yesterday after everything was put back together, the car would fire 
right up, but die 1/2 second later.  We managed to keep it running 
via the cold start valve, but as we all know, thats not right.  We 
pulled the injectors out and "cracked" them, and cleaned of the 
Platinum +4 plugs, tested the fuel pressure (~4 bar), and put 
everything back together.  It fired right up that time, but was 
idleing very very poorly.  It was all over the board from 500-2000 
rpm.  I took it out for a test drive to warm it up good before 
hooking it up to the scope.  5 minutes later it quit on me while 
slowly accelerating in gear.  I pulled into a parking lot and tired 
to restart it, no luck.  It was doing the same thing it had been 
when we first put it back together, only this time it wouldn't run 
at all on the cold start.  Tinkering with the mixture a little more 
didn't help either.  Pulled it back to the shop, let it sit 
overnight.

Today we went at it again.  Still wasn't starting, so we raised the 
fuel pressure to an estimated 5 bar (havn't measured it yet), and 
replaced the plugs with normal Bosch Supers, and cracked the 
injectors one more time.  Still no luck.  It would fire right away, 
but die a 1/2 second later.  Finally, I decided to put my original 
coil and ballast resistors back on.  I had replaced them with a 
Bosch 25,000 volt super coil when I did the tuneup 3 weeks ago.  
VAROOM!!!  Fired right up and was running "almost-great".  There is 
still a small idle fluxuation (doesn't seem like normal lambda 
flux), but its running great in gear, and the low end hesitation and 
miss that I had is now gone.

I'll be taking it back to my uncle's shop one more time on tuesday 
night to verify the correct fuel pressure, and ensure the mixture is 
correct.  Hopefully nothing will go astray untill then, and after 
then.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960




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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 01:26:06 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>
Subject: tools

Does anyone here have an opinion on a Snap-On 1/2" drive wireless electric 
impact wrenches? Are they good quality?

Warren
-- 
Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 09:11:24 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing


Just FYI, I did something like this over a year ago and posted the results (including a wiring diagram) here:

http://www.eskin.net/saabswitch.html

-Hank #1619

----- Original Message ----- 
Subject: [DML] Delorean power mirror diagram power mirror testing
> Look here for the picture 
> http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/pics/mirrorsetc/deloreanmirrorwire.jpg





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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:21:30 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand_at_dml_forwardlook.net>
Subject: Tilley's Electric DeLorean

Hi All,
 
For those of you following Carl Tilley's attempt at "free energy", his
assets (including the D) have been seized by the government for
investment fraud.  You can check out the story at
http://wsmv.com/Global/story.asp?S=1301610 
 
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:44:19 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Second plea for voltage on coil

Dan, Sorry I couldn't bak sooner. Voltage checks at 2500 RPM's to simulate
driving conditions.
Resistor left side, 11.6 to 11.9 volts
Resistor right top, 13.4 volts
Resistor bottom right, 10 to 10.3 volts
Coil #15, 9.8 to 10 volts
Coil #1 , 8.4 volts.

John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: miltdanfoss [mailto:d_at_dml_nfoss.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 4:57 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Second plea for voltage on coil


Can someoen do me a HUGE favor and measure voltage on the #15 post on
the coil? It is marked.

One side is #1 one side is #15. You simply put the key in the
ignition and put in the on position, then measure voltage with black
lead on ground and positive on #15 on coil.

Mine is 7 VDC, my mechanic friend says it should be 12 VDC (or
battery voltage to be precise).

This would help me in my next troubleshooting step.

Heck, I'll even throw in a MARS MER-B "Opportunity" Launch Poster for
the first person to tell me.


Thanks,
Dan in Cocoa (3932)





To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 03:45:00 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: coil voltage on transistorized ignition

You don't want full 12v on MOST vintage transistorized ignition
systems. Will eventually fry the module. 

You DO want 12v on old fashioned points, but that's another story...

7 volts at rest is a bit low but within specs (I'm 8 at rest, 10
running -- same as late model Lincolns!). If your starting relay isn't
functioning is probably too little juice to fire engine. Run a wire
temporarily from the jump start post and see if that will kick things.
Engine should then stay running without it.

Am willing to bet your ballast resistor connections are corroded or
rusty. This is a job for sandpaper (spray cleaners won't cut it). Of
course resistors themselves could be bad -- test with ohm setting on
your multimeter (use scale big enough to see 1/10ths). Anything more
than .5 ohms each is bad. Your battery could be dying too.

I'm a big fan of electricity. All my vehicles (except the truck --
sorry old friend) run 40,000 or 45,000 volt coils and LOW resistance
plugs. Absolutely no ignition problems whatsoever, no matter the
weather, temperature, altitude, etc. Louie G (with new ignition) will
probably second the verdict: is no substitute for a man-sized spark. 

Bill Robertson
#5939






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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 12:57:51 EDT
From: iznodmad_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Mothers Polish Car Show Series

I was just watching the Mothers Polish Car Show Series on ESPN2 and right 
towards the end of the show (about 12:30 EST) one of the hosts was standing in 
front of a DeLorean.  I was shocked to see it b/c these guys usually don't cover 
cars like the D.  He commented that it was a nice example with only 4900 
miles.  It appeared to me to be either an 82 or 83 with grey interior and auto 
transmission.  The host did not seem to like the D that much saying that it was a 
bust and didn't sell well.  He also said that even though it had interesting 
features like stainless steel and gullwing doors that it was a very "blah" car 
that was very boring and didn't have much appeal.  Not a very good review, 
but obviously this guy doesn't know the following the D has.  He finished up by 
saying the car would have been better painted and then the camera panned over 
and there was Curtis's car!  The host seemed to be very much impressed with 
the detail of Curtis's car and the show came to an end.  My question to the list 
is:  Where was this filmed at, when was it filmed, and is the owner of the 
stainless low mileage car on this list?  The host did not interview either owner 
nor were there any camera shots of the owners.  Any info would be 
appreciated.  

Regards,
Darren Decker    
#5000



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:49:27 -0400
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7_at_dml_carolina.rr.com>
Subject: AC Problem

I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working great except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running a while, say 30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I cut the AC off  and then back on, it will begin to blow cold air again. Sometimes I have to do this several times in a row to fix the problem. This happens on either the Normal or Max switch setting. Any thoughts/suggestions?

Bob Thomason #5252


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 10:49:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Window regulator - how to tell what you have!

Some people responded to me that they weren't going to
take apart their doors to see what kind of
regulators/motor were installed. The easiest way to
tell what you have installed is to remove the small
red square light fixture at the back of the door. It's
rubber and easily pops in and out. Just let it hang by
wires and peek inside with a flashlight. If you see a
red tube, that's a new style. If you see a white tube,
that's the original equipment. I've been able to
"unfreeze" a stuck window motor by accessing it
through this hole with a LONG screwdriver and tapping
the end of the motor.

Now that I've armed you with this new information, I
will hold the poll open a few more days, in spite of
the fact that as I just checked, 62 people have
replied.

Sonny

PS - a few others wrote and said that they had more
than one subscription (live and digest). Dare I start
another poll to see how many subscriptions each of us
has? :-P

__________________________________
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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:39:26 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Door Locks

I am now at the end of my wits with these bloody door
locks.

Yesterday I spent most of the afternoon doing the lock
and latch setting procedure, and they still don't
work.... but I did get one step further on.....

Sooo...

I can now lock both doors from both sides, however I
can't unlock either from either side..

The solenoids are good and do work, I have done a
continuity test on all wiring and it is good too.

My lock module has been upgraded and works well.

One point to note after locking and trying to unlock
several times the solenoids are warm to touch.

Please help, I'm begining to think I will only ever
have a manual system....

Paul
#6463

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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 19:09:51 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement of front speakers

I replaced my front speakers last weekend. It can try your patiene 
but there are a couple tricks that make the job a lot easier.

For those that still have their original speakers, I was surprised to 
find when I removed mine that the foam surrounds on my front speakers 
was completely gone. It appears to have deteriorated with time to the 
point where it had completely crumbled away. My speakers still 
worked, but the quality of sound obviously wasn't the greatest. I 
would suspect that most all original front speakers are kaput due to 
age.

In order to give me a little better access without removing more 
stuff than necessary, I simply removed the air duct leading to the 
door jamb on both the driver's and passenger side. Removing these 
ducts is a 2-minute job and gives you a little better room. I did not 
find a need to remove anything else to get sufficient access.

You get at the speakers using the usual technique of laying on your 
back in the footwell. Some people reportedly remove the seats to get 
better access, but I have never found this to be necessary. It may 
depend on how nimble you are and your general size of build.

Removing the speakers is a breeze. Usually it's getting the new ones 
back in that gives people fits since the magnet has a tendency to 
steal the fasteners when your fumbling with them under the dash -- 
but there's a trick to it. Using a properly sized socket on an 
extension, put a shim in the bottom of the socket so as to keep the 
nut flush with the end of the socket. Put the nut in the socket. Put 
the washer ontop of the nut and secure in place with scotch tape. 
Using an exacto knife (or similar) cut out the hole in the center of 
the washer in the tape (to avoid the tape fouling the threads). The 
nut and washer should now be secure in the socket attached to the end 
of a suitable extension.

Laying in the footwell, you can now use your setup to screw one side 
of the replacement speaker in place. I found that I could only get 
one hand on the speaker at a time, but with the little trick it was 
possible to hold the speakeri n place while also threading the 
nut/washer on the stud. After it's threaded on, the tape tears away 
leaving the nut/washer on the stud with the speaker in place. Repeat 
with the other stud (which will be easier once the speaker is 
suspended from the first fastener).

Because the speaker is mounted from underneath and there is no cavity 
to accommodate a protruding tweeter, you have to make sure your 
replacement speaker has no tweeter protrusion.

Good luck. The installation can try your patience and working with 
your hand over your head is a little tiring, but take your time and 
take it easy.

      Knut



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
>    I have confirmed that my driver side front speaker
> is dead, and not the fault of the radio.  I figure I
> might as well replace both.  It seems almost too easy
> to get to from the bottom but I have this feeling that
> to remove them, i have to take the whole dash apart. 
> Does anyone know the easiest way to get at these
> speakers for replacement?
> 
> 




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:29:10 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Venting outside air over engine

The photos are up (in the "Photos/Bolt of Lightning" folder).  The 
digital camera I used is a bit fuzzy... but you get the basic idea.

Keep in mind that the vehicle was rolled by the previous owner (much 
like my digital camera).



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thomaspaulmccoy" 
<thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I will try to get photos this weekend for the lists... for some 
> reason I'm not receiving e-mail consistently :(
> 
> This is actually the second attempt at the integrated panel/scoop 
(I 
> discovered that a large scoop does not match the subtle lines of 
the 
> DMC12).  This most recent venture matches the style of the car 
> perfectly.  For now, the scoop is cosmetic.  My plan in stage 2 is 
to 
> get a brushed or chromed aluminum duct constructed that would take 
> the air and direct it onto the engine... similar to the McLaren F1.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Thomas 6921
> "Bolt of Lightening" #6921




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 12:36:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thought Id startup another howto

Hello all:

   Ive been caught in a standstill because not all of
my parts have arrived yet to do any work.  I want to
do it all at one time, take a zillion pictures and
break it down into seperate instructions.

    Not thinking yesterday, and on little sleep i
raised the question of removing the dash to get to the
front speakers.  Not thinking about removing them from
under the dash.  

    I decided this would be easy enough for a late
afternoon howto write-up, for those who want to change
out those nasty old craigs.

BTW - The first HOWTO was updated twice thanks to the
help of the folks at the DMCNEWS group.  It doesnt
seem to be updated to DMCNEWS.com however.

THIS HOWTO IS NOT YET COMPLETE. IT ONLY COVERS THE
DRIVER SIDE.

The most updated ones, as well as the new one can be
found here

http://www.ventureworthy.com/retro/delorean/deloreanmain.html

Input, feedback and comments are appreciated.

thanx

Jordan 11613

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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 22:08:42 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: AC Problem

Are the fans still running when the air gets warm ?

Fan fail module ? Circuit braker ?

Elvis


I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working great
except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running a while, say
30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I cut the AC off  and
then back on, it will begin to blow cold air again. Sometimes I have to do
this several times in a row to fix the problem. This happens on either the
Normal or Max switch setting. Any thoughts/suggestions?




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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 18:31:38 -0000
From: "thomaspaulmccoy" <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Window regulator - how to tell what you have!

I couldn't participate - there is no option for "No Regulators" on 
the poll page :)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Sonny V <sonnyvr2000_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> the fact that as I just checked, 62 people have
> replied.




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 16:10:05 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: RE: Venting outside air over engine

How about a few more photos.  Looks interesting.

-----Original Message-----
From: thomaspaulmccoy [mailto:thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 12:29 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Venting outside air over engine


The photos are up (in the "Photos/Bolt of Lightning" folder).  The 
digital camera I used is a bit fuzzy... but you get the basic idea.

Keep in mind that the vehicle was rolled by the previous owner (much 
like my digital camera).






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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 17:13:10 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com>
Subject: Re: tools

I don't have experience with the 1/2" drive ones, but we use the 3/8" drive
Snap-on models at work all the time.  If you can, spend the money to get the
higher voltage.  The 12 volt ones we have are pathetically weak, you're
better off hand tightening everything.  They also overheat easily, and
getting them fixed is quite expensive.

Payne

> Does anyone here have an opinion on a Snap-On 1/2" drive wireless electric
> impact wrenches? Are they good quality?
>
> Warren
> --
> Treasurer, GOLUM, Inc.
> http://www.golum.org
>
>



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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 20:22:41 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Tilley's Electric DeLorean Delorean Car Show

Darn

I had him agreeing to bring the car 
now I doubt it 

Well thats one less DeLorean in Pigeon Forge

Guess that means we need at least one more to take its place 

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 00:29:24 -0000
From: "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: DMC manuals PDF project

Hello all,

I am undertaking a HUGE task of rewriting the 3 DMC books in my PC. The purpose of this is not to give it away free or in electronic form. If I suceed, and there is a large enough demand, I will create a metal binder enclosed version with updates as they are made. The book will be printed rather then Xerox'd so the words and pictures are clear.

Anyway I have posted samples of the files I am creating in a folder called "6067-pdf" in the files section.

Yes, I know lots of others have tried this task before Dave :-P


Michael Paine
Vin# 6067




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 01:49:01 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: AC Problem

What is the blower speed when this happens? If on speed one or two 
it is probably a connection to the clutch or, the blower motor is 
drawing too much current away from the clutch. Blower speeds one and 
two run on the clutch circuit. Disconnect and reconnect the clutch 
connections in the engine compartment - there are two right there by 
the compressor that often get contaminated. Also check the 
connections on the accumulator (just take them off and reattach a 
couple of times to clear a connection) If that doesn't work try 
blower speed three for a few days and see what happens. Blower 
speeds three and four run on a circuit separate of the clutch. If 
that seems to solve your problem I would say you should take out the 
blower motor and oil the felt for the bottom motor bushing. You can 
see it through the vent hole. It is probably dried out - most blower 
motors have new life after getting a good dose of oil on the felt 
(20w) and draw fewer amps. I do mine every several years when I hear 
it start to rumble or "knock" some. 

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bob Thomason" <rdt7_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working 
great except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running 
a while, say 30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I 
cut the AC off  and then back on, it will begin to blow cold air 
again. Sometimes I have to do this several times in a row to fix the 
problem. This happens on either the Normal or Max switch setting. 
Any thoughts/suggestions?
> 
> Bob Thomason #5252
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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