From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1566
Date: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 7:33 AM

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Door Locks
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Timing is everything
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

3. Re: AC Problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Door Locks
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. Re: Timing is everything
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Tilley's Electric DeLorean Delorean Car Show
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>

7. Re: DMC manuals PDF project
From: "v_davidj" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

8. No More Steering "Stiction"
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

9. Northern Michigan D's...
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

10. Re: Re: Uh oh
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 01:58:34 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Door Locks

Did you adjust the locks without the electric connections first to 
be sure of your mechanical adjustments - lock and unlock - then 
adjust the electric sensors? I find this process works best. BTW - A 
full day of on-the-job training is about normal for door locks.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_b...> 
wrote:
> I am now at the end of my wits with these bloody door
> locks.
> 
> Yesterday I spent most of the afternoon doing the lock
> and latch setting procedure, and they still don't
> work.... but I did get one step further on.....
> 
> Sooo...
> 
> I can now lock both doors from both sides, however I
> can't unlock either from either side..
> 
> The solenoids are good and do work, I have done a
> continuity test on all wiring and it is good too.
> 
> My lock module has been upgraded and works well.
> 
> One point to note after locking and trying to unlock
> several times the solenoids are warm to touch.
> 
> Please help, I'm begining to think I will only ever
> have a manual system....
> 
> Paul
> #6463
> 
> 
_____________________________________________________________________
___
> Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE 
Yahoo!
> Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 02:23:49 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Timing is everything

I have bolted on the one head I removed. I am now ready to time the 
engine. The procedure in the book is not working.

I have aligned the keyway and timing chain marks with the timing 
sprocket marks as described in the book. 

This isn't working because the book has you align the key way w/the 
LH bank of cylinders. Once you align the chain marks w/the timing 
marks on the sprockets, the cam is out of position. The drive pin is 
not aligned with the drive slot at the end of the cam. The slot and 
tab are supposed to be upppermost. The tab on the sprocket is, but 
the slot on the cam is down. When I try to rotate the cam to match 
up, a valve opens and strikes a cylinder and the cam will not rotate 
any further. I'm terrified I'll think I've lined it all up and crank 
the engine over and bend the valves. I've seen it happen.

I've already potentially done enough damage to the engine with my 
previous mistakes. Please help me into the light at the end of the 
tunnel.




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 03:28:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: AC Problem

>From the description of the symptoms it is very likely that there is
moisture in the system with the freon. When the moisture freezes up it
stops the flow of the freon. When it melts then the freon flows again.
This is exactly the reason it isn't always the best thing to just "top
off" the system with freon to get it running again. You MUST find the
leak or leaks, make sure there is enough oil in the system, and pull a
HARD vacuum to remove ALL of the moisture. Only then can you replace
the freon. Other possible causes are the cooling fans quiting because
of the circuit breaker, an under or overcharge of freon causing the
evap coil to freeze over.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Bob Thomason" <rdt7_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> I had an R12 recharge about a month ago and everything is working
great except for one annoying problem. After the AC has been running a
while, say 30 to 45 minutes, it will begin to blow warm air. If I cut
the AC off  and then back on, it will begin to blow cold air again.
Sometimes I have to do this several times in a row to fix the problem.
This happens on either the Normal or Max switch setting. Any
thoughts/suggestions?
> 
> Bob Thomason #5252
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 03:36:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Door Locks

You must first make sure the door latches (front AND rear) are locking
into the second lock position on both doors. You will never get the
doors adjusted right until you can first get them to close and latch
right. This will take some trial and error adjustment of the front and
rear anchor pins. You should be able to get them to latch
simultaniously. Do the adjustment on flat and level ground. Take your
time and get this as smooth as you can so you can go on to the
following steps. The doors should not "bump" closed or have to be
forced. This is a tricky thing to adjust because as the door closes it
closes in an arc and it is not easy to see what is going on. You might
also have to add or remove washers so the head of the anchor pin
doesn't hit the door. The head of the anchor pin shouldn't hit the
guide either if you have it adjusted really nice.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury_at_dml_b...> wrote:
> I am now at the end of my wits with these bloody door
> locks.
> 
> Yesterday I spent most of the afternoon doing the lock
> and latch setting procedure, and they still don't
> work.... but I did get one step further on.....
> 
> Sooo...
> 
> I can now lock both doors from both sides, however I
> can't unlock either from either side..
> 
> The solenoids are good and do work, I have done a
> continuity test on all wiring and it is good too.
> 
> My lock module has been upgraded and works well.
> 
> One point to note after locking and trying to unlock
> several times the solenoids are warm to touch.
> 
> Please help, I'm begining to think I will only ever
> have a manual system....
> 
> Paul
> #6463
> 
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Want to chat instantly with your online friends?  Get the FREE Yahoo!
> Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/




________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 03:48:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Timing is everything

I have never done the camshaft timing on a Delorean but I have done
many other cars with overhead camshafts. One generic method is to
bring one of the cylinders up to TDC on the compression stroke. Now
turn the camshaft until it is in between the intake valve closing and
the exhaust valve opening. If you are worried about crashing valves
you could slowly turn the crankshaft pulley by hand and if you feel
any resistance you could stop before you did any damage. It could be
the reason the timing marks aren't lining up is because the timing
chain moved a tooth because you didn't use the "dummy" bearing and
sprocket to hold the chain while you removed the head.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I have bolted on the one head I removed. I am now ready to time the 
> engine. The procedure in the book is not working.
> 
> I have aligned the keyway and timing chain marks with the timing 
> sprocket marks as described in the book. 
> 
> This isn't working because the book has you align the key way w/the 
> LH bank of cylinders. Once you align the chain marks w/the timing 
> marks on the sprockets, the cam is out of position. The drive pin is 
> not aligned with the drive slot at the end of the cam. The slot and 
> tab are supposed to be upppermost. The tab on the sprocket is, but 
> the slot on the cam is down. When I try to rotate the cam to match 
> up, a valve opens and strikes a cylinder and the cam will not rotate 
> any further. I'm terrified I'll think I've lined it all up and crank 
> the engine over and bend the valves. I've seen it happen.
> 
> I've already potentially done enough damage to the engine with my 
> previous mistakes. Please help me into the light at the end of the 
> tunnel.




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 23:56:08 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman_at_dml_fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Tilley's Electric DeLorean Delorean Car Show

knowing you...you'll probably find 10 to replace it!  (haha)

-Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964


kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Darn
>
>I had him agreeing to bring the car 
>now I doubt it 
>
>Well thats one less DeLorean in Pigeon Forge
>
>Guess that means we need at least one more to take its place 
>
>Ken



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 04:10:53 -0000
From: "v_davidj" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: DMC manuals PDF project

Hi Michael,

Not to rain on your parade, but to save you some time and sore 
fingers.  There is an easier way to convert the manual 
into "digital" form.  Do you have a scanner?  I suggest that you use 
OCR (Optical Character Recognition) which is built-in to Windows 
XP.  It allows one to scan a document, and convert it into editable 
text (i.e. Word, PDF, etc.).

If you don't have a scanner, you can pick one up for cheap on the 
internet (ebay or www.dell.com) or a computer store like CompUSA for 
less than $100.

I converted the manual a couple of years ago and constantly add 
revisions and notes to it.  Also having it in a Word Doc format 
makes it easy to search for words/terms etc.

Hope this is helpful information.
Thanks!
Dave


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "minox8x11" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> I am undertaking a HUGE task of rewriting the 3 DMC books in my 
PC. The purpose of this is not to give it away free or in electronic 
form. If I suceed, and there is a large enough demand, I will create 
a metal binder enclosed version with updates as they are made. The 
book will be printed rather then Xerox'd so the words and pictures 
are clear.
> 
> Anyway I have posted samples of the files I am creating in a 
folder called "6067-pdf" in the files section.
> 
> Yes, I know lots of others have tried this task before Dave :-P
> 
> 
> Michael Paine
> Vin# 6067




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 00:38:15 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: No More Steering "Stiction"

These DML  guys sure have lots of good suggestions and advice out there. So today I got  a sheet of 22 gauge stainless and cut out a strip 4.5" X 14" and covered the opening in the frame in front of the steering rack. This effectively blocks the radiant heat from the radiator and fans. (not to mention all the rocks and debris) Then I went for a long hot ride and I'll be damned if the "stiction" wasn't completely eliminated! What a pleasure to drive again! Thanks to all of you for the help!

Rustproof
Vin #1559

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 00:54:15 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Northern Michigan D's...

Hello,
       Are there any D owners in Northern Michigan?  I recently moved to 
Harbor Springs and everyone I talk to has never even seen a DeLorean before.  I'm 
just curious to see if someone is out there.  I attended the St. Ignace car 
show this weekend hoping to find another one, 3000 cars and no D's there 
either.(except mine)  drop me an email if you know of one up here (it may be a week 
or two before I check my mail again though.)

Peace,

Dave,
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 11:48:52 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Uh oh



cruznmd wrote:

>Martin, I don't quite understand the part about the manifold gaskets. 
>I'll test fit them today and see if I can finger it out.
>  
>
Since you've got the heads off, you'd be crazy not to put the manifolds 
back on them before dropping the heads back in. The manifold gaskets I 
used last have a little tab at the bottom edge which on one of the heads 
I was doing got bent up under the head and bolted down. It meant we went 
from an engine that was 1/2 an hour away from being started up to having 
to have the left hand head taken off again!!!

Martin





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