From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1571
Date: Sunday, July 06, 2003 8:11 AM

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: ASI Radio clock setting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Slight leaking from auto trans.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Slight leaking from auto trans.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: Infill strips
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

5. Re: Infill strips
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>

6. Re: DMC2?? New DeLorean sports car?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

7. Re: transmission problems
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

8. Re: No More Steering "Stiction"
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

9. Re: ASI Radio clock setting
From: "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>

10. Coolant system pressure test results
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. What Tires to get??
From: "p12c16" <p12c16_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Re: rear Light screw fixings
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

13. Re: ASI Radio clock setting
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Overheating problem
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 03:40:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: ASI Radio clock setting

To set the clock you must first have it indicate a time (turn the key
on). Next there are two hidden buttons, one to the left of fast rewind
which is for hours and one to the right of the fast foward for the
minutes. You need to use a toothpick or a straightened out paper clip
and push in gently till you feel it "bump". Be careful not to force
anything or you may damage the button. You can only go foward. If you
have a battery master switch you will find yourself doing this often.
You also lose your station presets. I removed the fuse for the radio
and ran a wire from the radio side of the fuse to the "hot" side of
the master switch with an inline fuse. Now when I turn off the battery
I keep the time up AND the station presets.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all:
>   
>     In reference to the ASI radio tape deck.  Does
> anyone know how to set the time on this thing besides
> waiting until midnight to unplug the battery?
> 
> 
> thanx
> 
> jordan 11613




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 03:49:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Slight leaking from auto trans.

The spot you are probably refering to is the final drive portion of
the transaxle. You do not want to retorque the bolts and you certainly
do not want to remove and reseal this.The case (where it splits) does
not have a gasket, it is a special sealer. It is usually a very slow
leak. Make sure that the final drive is full and filled with 90# gear
oil. Anything thinner and it will leak faster. The other common source
of leaks is the shift cable but that will leak red trans fluid. Not
usually fast but messy. The fix is to remove the shift cable and put a
piece of heat-shrink tubing over it. P J Grady has it and I guess the
other venders do too. Make sure that the fluid levels are OK. Too high
and everything will leak, too low and things can be damaged. The final
drive and the trans are separate so they must EACH be checked as per
the manual. The output seals for the drive flanges also leak. The fix
there is to replace the seals and if the flanges are scored on the
sealing surfaces they must be machined or replaced too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
> While everything is indeed in great condition, It
> looks like there is a slight leak on the trans. where
> the two halves meet.  There are several nuts and bolts
> that hold these halves together.  Would it be best to:
> 
>     A: leave it along unless it gets worse
>     B: Torque down those bolts and see if they are
> under the factory recommended PSI. (loosened?)
>     C: Remove the transmission and install all new
> gaskets.
> 
> thanx
> 
> jordan 11613




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 04:01:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Slight leaking from auto trans.

Please do not be tempted to try pouring a bottle of seal fixer into
the trans. If it does work at all it will only work temporaraly. When
it does wear off it will leak worse than before. They work by swelling
the seals. It causes them to soften which makes them wear faster which
then makes them leak. If you have to do something then drain out as
much of the old fluid as you can, wipe out the pan, and refill with
fresh fluid. By doing this you are removing the tiny particles which
causes the seals to wear out in the first place. This won't make the
seals stop leaking but it will keep them from getting worse.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Unlikely it is the case leaking. If you get a chance to see how it 
> is constructed and sealed there you will know why. More likely the 
> shift cable or the seals where the governor cables attach is your 
> leak. All of these points are typical leaks on the D Auto. The cable 
> is the most common. Actually, from my experience, the cable has a 
> 100 percent chance. The fluid just travels to the lowest point so it 
> appears to be coming from the case. I have a brand new shift cable 
> on mine and it started leaking again in 5,000 miles. The fluid goes 
> right to the center of the case and drops. You can clean it up and 
> trace the fluid. Depending on how much you drive a little trans 
> fluid can look like a lot. If the trans is a little over full the 
> cable will tend to leak more because the leak happens when the car 
> is off. Mine has some drips but in another 2,000 miles it has not 
> been noticeable on the dip stick, just annoying at this point. So, I 
> am not going to mess with it for now. You could try some fresh fluid 
> and/or some professional type conditioner. Either one will probably 
> help the seals. 
> 
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > Hello all:
> > 
> > While everything is indeed in great condition, It
> > looks like there is a slight leak on the trans. where
> > the two halves meet.  There are several nuts and bolts
> > that hold these halves together.  Would it be best to:
> > 
> >     A: leave it along unless it gets worse
> >     B: Torque down those bolts and see if they are
> > under the factory recommended PSI. (loosened?)
> >     C: Remove the transmission and install all new
> > gaskets.
> > 
> > thanx
> > 
> > jordan 11613




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 00:14:04 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Infill strips

http://www.delorean.com/finisher.asp

> OK
> 
> I give up I've looked everywhere.... who is it that sells the little 
> black
> stripes that goes on the doors just rear of the upper trim panel?
> 
> Good description hey??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Paul
> #6463
> http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk



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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 00:20:27 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul_at_dml_bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Infill strips

they are sold at delorean.com.  They are a new product.  Look for them
there.

joseph Molino
vin 2850
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
To: <DMCForum_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>; <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>;
<doc-uk_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 5:23 PM
Subject: [DML] Infill strips


> OK
>
> I give up I've looked everywhere.... who is it that sells the little black
> stripes that goes on the doors just rear of the upper trim panel?
>
> Good description hey??
>
> Cheers
>
> Paul
> #6463
> http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk



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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 03:34:04 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: DMC2?? New DeLorean sports car?

[MODERATOR NOTE:  This discussion seems to have run its course.  Unless someone has some genuine news about the subject, further messages will be rejected.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderating team]

I'd make a video if I could sell a hundred dollar watch for $3000. 
Speaking of which, do you need a watch?

Jim
1537

On Fri, 4 Jul 2003 00:39:14 EDT KISSman83_at_dml_aol.com writes:
> I just don't think it makes sense...  Why would anybody go to that 
> effort for 
> a hoax?  Or did his new company just flop?  I'm lost now...



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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 11:54:33 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: transmission problems

Likely the roll pin in the transmission on the 1st and 2nd gear 
shift fork is broken (103219). This is not that uncommon and is 
usually caused by speed shifting into 2nd (or attempting to) or 
forcing second because the plastic clutch hydraulic line is in need 
of upgrading. The clutch line or a clutch problem can best be 
identified by engaging into reverse because it is the one gear that 
is not synchronized. If the clutch is not releasing properly reverse 
will grind. On hot days the plastic clutch line will usually expand 
too much to allow complete release. A properly released clutch will 
allow an easy reverse engagement.

I would recommend verifying proper clutch action. If that is ok, 
then take out the trans and ship it to a DeLorean repair facility. 
There may be a specialty shop around that can handle the work if you 
give them the manuals; however, places like DMCH, Grady, Don Steger 
and Bauerle know the car inside and out. While you're in there I 
would strongly consider doing the clutch and throw out bearing, etc.

Now, if you are careful at feeling the trans shifter you may be able 
to "pop" the fork back into place. If you can, it may hold for a 
while (depending on how clean the shear was) while you figure out 
what to do. If the pin is sheared, the fork has now moved too far 
forward on the selector shaft not allowing full travel to engage 
second gear. You want to slip the fork back on the shaft into place. 

With the car off and brake set, line up like you are going to shift 
into first gear - no clutch action - move the shifter like you are 
going for first until it stops. Then, with light quick pushes try to 
push into first gear. You may feel the fork slip back into place. If 
it does go into first gear, try again until you feel the shifter 
come back to the normal feel. If you are fortunate enough for the 
fork to go back into place, try driving a while being gentle with 
second. I drove my D in this condition for over a year before I was 
able to get it fixed properly just had to be careful. It popped out 
once or twice again but I just slipped it back. The fork might get 
scored inside but it will not affect it at repair time.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> hello all,
> 
> It seems I have a problem with second gear. all the others are 
fine but 
> sometimes when I shift into 2nd it pops right back out into 
nuetral. I 
> have to pull back on the shifter and hold it in place until I have 
the 
> clutch pedal released before I let go of the shifter. Also 
sometimes 
> when I shift from 1st to 2nd when I let the pedal up I am not in 
gear 
> and I have to put it back to nuetral and pull it back hard to get 
into 
> gear (after pushing the clutch pedal of course). I seem to have a 
> problem getting into reverse as well but only occasionally - same 
pull 
> back issue, I have to pull back hard to get it into gear. Would 
this 
> just be an adjustment in the linkage between the tranny and the 
> shifter? Is this something I can do myself, being only a weekend 
> mechanic?
> 
> regards,
> 
> Michael
> vin# 6067




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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 12:15:59 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: No More Steering "Stiction"

The book recommends removal of the rack. However, you can loosen the 
boots and let the old grease drain and then refill. This is a 
tedious process and not very precise. If you do it this way I would 
work with the passenger side only. Open the boot, being careful not 
to damage it. Slip it back from the rack housing and let it drain. 
Try to measure how much comes out; you want to replace the grease 
with at least the same amount and probably an ounce or two more. The 
tricky part is getting the new oil into the rack without losing it 
all on the ground. The best way is to put the boot back on and put 
the new oil in with a pump action gun that has an orifice that will 
allow you to pull the boot back at the top and pump the grease in 
or; you may be able to find a orifice small enough to insert into 
the small end of the boot without damaging it. Obviously the risk is 
boot damage. If it breaks, then you faced with replacing the boot. I 
have done it both ways. I like full synthetic grease 75w-90 which 
seems to be smoother. If you over fill the rack the steering may 
become jerky because the air space is gone. Just drain some grease 
out and allow some time for the grease level to stabilize.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jwit6_at_dml_c... wrote:
> Just did the same thing and although the stiction is not totally 
gone, it is markedly improved. Would still like to replace the oil 
though, so I'll ask again.... Is there anyway to drain the oil 
without removing the rack. Short of hanging the car by the rear 
facia and letting it drip out the pinion cap? :-)
> Thanks,
> Jim 6147
> 
> "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> 
> >These DML  guys sure have lots of good suggestions and advice out 
there. So today I got  a sheet of 22 gauge stainless and cut out a 
strip 4.5" X 14" and covered the opening in the frame in front of 
the steering rack. This effectively blocks the radiant heat from the 
radiator and fans. (not to mention all the rocks and debris) Then I 
went for a long hot ride and I'll be damned if the "stiction" wasn't 
completely eliminated! What a pleasure to drive again! Thanks to all 
of you for the help!
> >
> >Rustproof
> >Vin #1559




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 09:08:23 -0400
From: "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_netrax.net>
Subject: Re: ASI Radio clock setting

Jordan,
#17006 still has the original ASI radio. To set the clock, look for two
small holes, one on each side of the tape eject button.  Insert a toothpick
or bent paper clip into each hole to set the time.  That's all there is to
it.
Brent
#17006 ASI radio
#03049 Craig radio

----- Original Message -----
From: "jordan rubin" <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: "dmcnewsgroup" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 2:00 AM
Subject: [DML] ASI Radio clock setting


> Hello all:
>
>     In reference to the ASI radio tape deck.  Does
> anyone know how to set the time on this thing besides
> waiting until midnight to unplug the battery?
>
>
> thanx
>
> jordan 11613



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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 17:51:11 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Coolant system pressure test results

A key "moment of truth" during the re-assembly of my engine is the 
cooling system pressure test.

Following Dave Stragand's advice, I hooked up a small pump the the 
overflow bottle to pressurize the system. The first thing I note is 
that I do not have the right bottle. This was a recent discovery. 
Mine appears to be out of a late 80's/early 90's Mercedes Benz.

I went one extra step, spraying a soapy water solution around key 
points (head gasket mating areas, water pump connections). I also 
removed the thermostat before sealing the system because it's my 
understanding that with the thermostat closed (cold) I'd only be 
testing one side of the cooling system. This test is also supposed to 
help me determine if I shifted a piston liner, ruining the seal 
underneath.

The results?
1. I had 3 leaks on the water pump due to crappy clamps. Fixed.

2. One -tiny- leak at a head mating surface in the "valley" on the 
driver side. It leaked at a rate of 3 bubbles per second, I was able 
to tighten it down to a rate of 1 bubble per 2 or 3 seconds. Perhaps 
when the metal expands, and contracts and I perform the re-tightening 
procedure, it will stop entirely.

3. One leak on the passenger side head towards the front of the car. 
Even smaller than the other one, I watched it actually stop leaking 
completely on it's own.

4. The worst leaks were from micro fractures in the overflow bottle. 
I sprayed it down and it bubbles in several places on the top.

I was unable to hear -any- hissing from inside the engine that would 
indicate an internal leak. It takes a considerable amount of time for 
the pressure to bleed off through the cracks in the overflow bottle.
The rate of leakage from the bottle is consistent with the time it 
takes for the pressure to drop to zero.

That is, the bottle doesn't just give 1 or 2 bubbles while the 
pressure drops quickly because of another leak elsewhere.
I realize that this isn't very scientific but I don't know what else 
to do. I think I've done ok. I welcome any suggestions.

I know I have to replace the coolant bottle. I saw one on Ebay that 
was pretty reasonable. The guy only wanted $400.00....;-)




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 20:02:04 -0000
From: "p12c16" <p12c16_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: What Tires to get??

My dad and I are planning on getting new tires for our new DeLorean, 
but I figured I would check with all of you to see what you prefer.  
We are leaning towards the Yokohamas, but what do you all reccomend?

Patrick
VIN 1880
P12C16_at_dml_aol.com




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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 21:34:35 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: rear Light screw fixings

Having thought about this, my reply was perhaps a little hasty. This 
mail is more of a question really:

Why do some cars use self-tapping screws to mount the light clusters, 
and why do some (like mine) use M4 machine screws?

Martin





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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 22:39:32 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: ASI Radio clock setting

What is an "ASI" radio? I thought DeLoreans only came with Craigs. At 
least, that's all I've seen.

What do they look like? Can you still get them from a DeLorean vendor?
What VIN's did they run through?


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Brent W. Lundgren" <brentlun_at_dml_n...> 
wrote:
> Jordan,
> #17006 still has the original ASI radio. To set the clock, look for 
two
> small holes, one on each side of the tape eject button.  Insert a 
toothpick
> or bent paper clip into each hole to set the time.  That's all 
there is to
> it.
> Brent
> #17006 ASI radio
> #03049 Craig radio
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jordan rubin" <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...>
> To: "dmcnewsgroup" <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 2:00 AM
> Subject: [DML] ASI Radio clock setting
> 
> 
> > Hello all:
> >
> >     In reference to the ASI radio tape deck.  Does
> > anyone know how to set the time on this thing besides
> > waiting until midnight to unplug the battery?
> >
> >
> > thanx
> >
> > jordan 11613




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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 22:54:53 -0000
From: "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Overheating problem

I had a little "issue" the other day, and have had problems with 
overheating ever since.

Let me start out by stating that the cooling fans ARE working. 
(Finally got those fixed, Toby!)

Anyway, as I'm pulling into the parking lot at work, I see steam from 
the engine compartment, and see my temp gauge way up high. I park it, 
and see that the alternator belt is chewed up and flown off, and the 
hose from the overfill to the water pump has come disconnected from 
the pump. 

So, I reconnected the hose, and replaced both belt.

Drove the car home, and the car was giving erratic temp readings. 
But, was definitly still running hot.

I installed the coolant bleeding kit, started it up, and it got up to 
220 degrees, at which point I shut off the car. I did this once 
yesterday, and once today. It normally does not run this hot.

No fluids are leaking, and when I run the car without the cap on the 
overfill tank, I see no "spurts" of fluid coming into the tank.

I always assumed when a water pump goes bad, it leaks coolant. I 
replaced the water pump 3 years ago..is it bad already?

Thoughts?




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