From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1577
Date: Friday, July 11, 2003 1:30 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: What Tires to get??
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>

2. Re: Re: Welding the head
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

3. RE: Re: Overheating
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

4. Re: BTTF Questions
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: "Where did you get it?"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Crank pulley removal (was Moment of Truth)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

7. Re: Re: "Where did you get it?"
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

8. Re: Overheating
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: BTTF Questions
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

10. Re: What Tires to get??
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Welding the head (domestic Volvo replacements)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. TV sighting
From: illyana delorean <illyana_at_dml_mindspring.com>

13. Toasted Starter
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

14. Radiator Question.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

15. Gary Busey
From: "tjb229" <tjb229_at_dml_psu.edu>

16. Re: Toasted Starter
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Overheating (overflow bottle)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

18. Re: Radiator Question.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

19. Re: DMCH struts
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

20. Re: Toasted Starter
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

21. Re: Toasted Starter
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

22. Two Decatur, Alabama Car Shows This Saturday!!
From: "Robert O. Greenhaw" <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>

23. RE: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

24. Courthouse Square in Cat in the Hat
From: "Charlie g" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>

25. Red Turbo Delorean
From: "geek123y" <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 05:32:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_snurgle.org>
Subject: RE: What Tires to get??

On Wed, 9 Jul 2003, michael townsley wrote:

> front's balanced I was told they were out of round. If Goodyear now
> makes a matched set...then I could perhaps change the fronts now and
> reduce the vibration and then replace the rears latter on.

Brand doesn't make as much difference as design.  All manufacturers make 
tires with all sorts of characteristics, so don't worry about getting 
Goodyears!

The NCT's weren't all that hot when they were new.  Now that they are over
20 years old, they're really not good.  Almost anything would be better.

My advice is to replace all four tires, take the NCTs off and see if you 
can sell them to someone who wants them for Concours.  They're sure not 
something you want to drive on, other than on and off the trailer!  This 
is especially true if they are out of round, because you will never get 
the vibration to go away.

It's always better to get a matched set of tires, but if you mostly use 
the car as a "cruiser" the primary difference will be in appearance.  Even 
so, definitely get matched tires if you can.  Matched tires will often 
perform better than unmatched tires of higher quality, especially in the 
emergency handling department.




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:29:29 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Welding the head

Indeed :-) I know of two 760's from which we could have both cylinder 
heads at very little. HOWEVER they should be checked and faced before 
putting on a car and this can cost anywhere from 100 to 500* the pair 
depending on their condition.

I dread to think what they'd cost to ship to the US too....

Martin

* this would be a complete refurb with all new valves and springs.

content22207 wrote:

>Aluminum heads are generally considered disposable on cast iron blocks...
>
>You'd probably have better success with a replacement. See Message
>#31008, then contact Martin Gutkowski direct. He's become rather
>expert of late retrofitting Volvo components on PRV. B28F is standard
>in early 80's 260 series, and mid 80's 760 series.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>  
>





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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 07:26:33 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Overheating

>Install an overflow recovery bottle on the hose under the pressure cap.

Interesting idea. Why? will it suck it back up if too low, or is it just to
keep it clean and earth friendly?
Do you know a small/perfect fit model number?




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 07:09:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF Questions

Was on the phone switching insurance to Geico and the
rep asked me what a DeLorean was (first, what's that
all about?)  I told him it was the car from Back to
the Future.  He asked me if it ran on plutonium and I
responded "if it did would it make my insurance rates
increase?".

-Sean Mulligan
 VIN #10054
 "FLUXING"

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 14:42:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: "Where did you get it?"

One of the more common questions I get (especially from teenagers) is
"How fast does it go?". I say 88 MPH. Most of the time they "get it".
When asked about the flux capacitor I say the car wasn't ordered with
that option but I do have the Hover Conversion on extended back order.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I just tell them what a "new" reconditioned Delorean costs.  Then 
> let them figure it out from there.
> 
> Erik
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "thomaspaulmccoy" 
> <thomaspaulmccoy_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > The most insulting question I get is:
> > 
> > "How much did you pay for it?"
> > 
> > I always tell people its not polite to talk about money, but they 
> > keep repeating the question until I tell.  How do other owners get 
> > around this rude question?
> > 
> > 
> > Thomas
> > Bolt of Lightning #6921
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > > "where did you get it?"  What a dumb ass question. 
> > > What are they asking? they want to know who I bought
> > > it from?  where the guy lived?!




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 15:25:54 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Crank pulley removal (was Moment of Truth)

I -gently- used a pair or long screw drivers to walk it off. It 
really was only hand tight.


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> I wasn't worried about crank nut -- just wondered what you used to
> remove pulley after nut off.
> 
> Like most engines, PRV pistons do indeed hit twice in each 
combustion
> cycle. Is about only thing it has in common...
> 
> When I said pulley has two timing marks, was talking only about
> reindexing TDC. Of course distributor can only fire near top (10
> degrees -- sorry, couldn't resist) of compression stroke. Was under
> impression you watched valves before marking rotor location. That's
> why I wondered if valve covers were still off engine.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Bill,
> > 
> > You aint been paying attention. :) I bought $350.00 worth of air 
> > compressor, tank and tools. That's how I got the crank pulley off.
> > 
> > Folks are also saying I could be 180 degrees off because #1 
piston is 
> > TDC 2X for every one revolution of the distributor.
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Pigeon Forge is a year away...
> > > 
> > > One tooth makes all the difference in the world. Translates 
into a 
> > LOT
> > > of rotor travel (how many teeth are on the worm gear? Divide 
360 by
> > > that and you'll see what you're up against). Despite my best 
> > efforts,
> > > got mine one off (removed to better access heater core take 
off). 
> > Seem
> > > to remember something interfering with far swing in direction I 
> > needed
> > > to go. Pulled upper air assembly off AGAIN (by that time was 
getting
> > > real good) and reinstalled one tooth over. Success.
> > > 
> > > You can diagnose with timing light as you rotate engine with 
starter
> > > motor only. Slow, but it does work. Either jump the solenoid, 
or 
> > con a
> > > willing family member into turning the key.
> > > 
> > > You did re-index TDC cylinder #1... (stock PRV has two marks on 
> > crank
> > > pully so it doesn't matter which stroke you were on).
> > > 
> > > BTW: How did you finally remove crank pully? I've got to 
replace 
> > seal
> > > in timing case cover so mine's coming off too.
> > > 
> > > Bill Robertson
> > > #5939
> > > 
> > > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > > > Ok kids, here's what's happening:
> > > > 
> > > > I bought a big honkin' Optima battery. I discovered my 
grounds 
> > and 
> > > > battery connections were dirty so I cleaned them up. That got 
the 
> > > > starter to engage. Hooked up the alternator belt and the 
little 
> > wire 
> > > > for the "discharge" light on the dash. Oil, coolant, etc.
> > > > 
> > > > By now, it was getting dark, so I didn't fool with it for 
long.
> > > > 
> > > > The engine squeaks. It's -bone dry-. I did my best to get the 
> > timing 
> > > > as close as I could, but the car didn't start. It tried once 
or 
> > > > twice. I had a helper crank the engine, and I felt it puff a 
> > feeble 
> > > > sort of back fire a couple of times.
> > > > 
> > > > I think it's the timing. I feel very confident that I set the 
> > chains, 
> > > > pistons, and valves correctly. I rotated the engine by hand, 
and 
> > > > nothing was interfering. The distributor though...
> > > > 
> > > > Here's what I did: Set piston 1 at TDC. Then I set the rotor 
in 
> > the 
> > > > distributor in line with electrode #1 in distro cap. I then 
> > installed 
> > > > the distributor and put the cap on, making sure they were 
still 
> > in 
> > > > line.
> > > > 
> > > > Hm...TDC? It's supposed to be 13 degrees -before- TDC, right? 
Am 
> > I an 
> > > > entire gear tooth off, or can I adjust 13 degrees with the 
swing 
> > in 
> > > > the distributor?
> > > > 
> > > > The really good news? The engine isn't pukeing any fluids. 
> > > > 
> > > > Come on guys, I'm close. Help me out, I want to go to Pigeon 
> > Forge!
> > > > 
> > > > Rich
> > > > #5335




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 12:49:13 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Re: "Where did you get it?"

> The most insulting question I get is:
> "How much did you pay for it?"
>How do other owners get around this rude question?

I get that all the time as well.  I tell people that they go between $10K and $30K depending on condition.  If they still press, I just say "they're on ebay, go look".   If it is more of a friend type person than a stranger, I usually tell them the "$20K rule" and say that I paid a little more than that.


-Hank




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 16:49:45 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating

The purpose of the overflow bottle is to keep the header bottle full
of coolant (no air). When the engine cools it draws coolant back in,
not air. The other reason I use it is that with the metal bottle you
can't see the level unless you remove the pressure cap when the engine
is cool.
Any generic plasic bottle works. I attached mine to a bolt on the left
side of the engine compartment and ran a hose from the header bottle
over the engine. The "trick" is that the hose must run from the tube
under the pressure cap to the BOTTOM of the overflow bottle so it can
pull the coolant back when the engine cools. The overflow bottle
should also be as close to the same height as the header bottle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> >Install an overflow recovery bottle on the hose under the pressure cap.
> 
> Interesting idea. Why? will it suck it back up if too low, or is it
just to
> keep it clean and earth friendly?
> Do you know a small/perfect fit model number?




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 12:53:32 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: BTTF Questions

> Was wondering if anyone has come up with any good
> one-liners 

I'll just repeat what someone else on the list once said:

"I haven't heard that joke/question since next week."    It works every time.

-Hank  #1619




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 16:57:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: What Tires to get??

I am still running on the NCT's. They have 7,000 miles on them. I
inspect them often for cracks and delaminations (bubbles) and tread
separation. Even though they look fine they seem to ride very hard
(like rocks). I suspect this is due to aging, tire manufactures never
intended for users to drive on a tire for over 20 years! I figure that
I should be removing them especially if I do any long distance driving
on them anymore. I also notice a side to side vibration in the
steering wheel at certain speeds even though everything is balanced. I
use a premium tire dressing that claims to protect the tires from UV
to keep the tires from cracking and am very careful about checking
tire pressure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, William T Wilson <fluffy_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Jul 2003, michael townsley wrote:
> 
> > front's balanced I was told they were out of round. If Goodyear now
> > makes a matched set...then I could perhaps change the fronts now and
> 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 17:17:28 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Welding the head (domestic Volvo replacements)

I envisioned domestic replacements. Overwhelming majority over here
were 240/740 series (with turbo 4), but 6 cylinders can be found --
sometimes on eBay.

BTW: did Volvo B28F use valve covers embossed with name, as on 4
cylinder, or are they plain like ours? Black painted embossed covers
look sharp enough to consider replacing.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Indeed :-) I know of two 760's from which we could have both cylinder 
> heads at very little. HOWEVER they should be checked and faced before 
> putting on a car and this can cost anywhere from 100 to 500* the pair 
> depending on their condition.
> 
> I dread to think what they'd cost to ship to the US too....
> 
> Martin
> 
> * this would be a complete refurb with all new valves and springs.
> 
> content22207 wrote:
> 
> >Aluminum heads are generally considered disposable on cast iron
blocks...
> >
> >You'd probably have better success with a replacement. See Message
> >#31008, then contact Martin Gutkowski direct. He's become rather
> >expert of late retrofitting Volvo components on PRV. B28F is standard
> >in early 80's 260 series, and mid 80's 760 series.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >  
> >




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 10:36:56 -0700
From: illyana delorean <illyana_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: TV sighting

Did any one else see the Delorean on last night's episode of "I'm With 
Busey"? It didn't have too much air time (less than a minute), and it 
was at the very end of the show - Gary and Adam got into it after 
fighting the robots.

That's all!

illyana




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 18:08:49 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Toasted Starter

Looks like I burned a vacation day for nothing. This thing isn't 
going to start.

I've positioned the distributor both ways and it won't catch. Bill, 
at DMCH asked how fast the engine was cranking.

Well, the truth is, not very, and it has to have some speed if it's 
going to catch. I've cleaned all the ground points, battery 
connections and such. I've got a new Optima battery _at_dml_ 700 or so cold 
cranking amps and a trickle charger that has the 50 amp "start 
booster" function on it. None of that makes it crank over any faster. 
After cranking for only 5-10 seconds the starter is pretty warm to 
the touch.

If anyone else has any other ideas I'm all ears.





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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 18:52:28 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Radiator Question.

Does anyone know the dimentions of the radiator? And the CFM rating 
of the existing cooling fans? I've been thinking about installing 
aftermarket fansm and wanted a comparison as to what would fit, and 
how much more efficient stock vs. aftermarket would be.

Thanks in advance!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 21:29:42 -0000
From: "tjb229" <tjb229_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Gary Busey

Hey, did anyone see "I'm with Busey" on Comedy Central last night 
(7/8/03)?  Gary Busey got into a Delorean at the end of the show. 
Does anyone have any information on this car? Is it really his?

-T. Baker




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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 22:11:48 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Toasted Starter

You can push start a DeLorean (did it when I had Hot Start issues),
but wouldn't recommend until you know engine runs. Otherwise might end
up pushing car all over parking lot only to end up back in same space.

If my starter motor is representative, doesn't spin engine all that
quickly. Was whole new experience with timing light. How does your
motor compare to Mike Cohee's?

If you suspect grounds, just run temporary wires until engine
debugged. I'd run one from battery to block (engine hoist bolt would
be nice place to attach) and from block to a starter mounting bolt
just to be sure. Don't screw around trying to thread through pontoon
-- just run out passenger door and over Q panel.

10 seconds is a LONG time to spin a starter motor (5 seconds is really
too much). If it doesn't catch after a second or two, it ain't gonna.
And don't forget: on a PRV, whole time you're cranking, cold start
valve is dumping fuel into engine. 

Have you tried starting fluid? Wicked stuff, but it does work
(assuming you've got a spark where the spark is supposed to be...)

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Looks like I burned a vacation day for nothing. This thing isn't 
> going to start.
> 
> I've positioned the distributor both ways and it won't catch. Bill, 
> at DMCH asked how fast the engine was cranking.
> 
> Well, the truth is, not very, and it has to have some speed if it's 
> going to catch. I've cleaned all the ground points, battery 
> connections and such. I've got a new Optima battery _at_dml_ 700 or so cold 
> cranking amps and a trickle charger that has the 50 amp "start 
> booster" function on it. None of that makes it crank over any faster. 
> After cranking for only 5-10 seconds the starter is pretty warm to 
> the touch.
> 
> If anyone else has any other ideas I'm all ears.




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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 01:25:12 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating (overflow bottle)

You forgot to mention to be sure to use the recovery type cap if you 
do the overflow bottle thing. It has a gasket that keeps the coolant 
in the cap vent space if it fills. Otherwise you may get coolant 
spray in the engine compartment. John Hervey sells a stainless 15lb 
cap that is perfect for both that and the regular bottle set up.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> The purpose of the overflow bottle is to keep the header bottle 
full
> of coolant (no air). When the engine cools it draws coolant back 
in,
> not air. The other reason I use it is that with the metal bottle 
you
> can't see the level unless you remove the pressure cap when the 
engine
> is cool.
> Any generic plasic bottle works. I attached mine to a bolt on the 
left
> side of the engine compartment and ran a hose from the header 
bottle
> over the engine. The "trick" is that the hose must run from the 
tube
> under the pressure cap to the BOTTOM of the overflow bottle so it 
can
> pull the coolant back when the engine cools. The overflow bottle
> should also be as close to the same height as the header bottle.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > >Install an overflow recovery bottle on the hose under the 
pressure cap.
> > 
> > Interesting idea. Why? will it suck it back up if too low, or is 
it
> just to
> > keep it clean and earth friendly?
> > Do you know a small/perfect fit model number?




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 01:37:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Question.

Check out John Hervey's site - 
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-fans.html

He has already done a lot of the work for you. I haven't found any 
fan that seems to move more air than the original Smiths Industries 
fans.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> 
wrote:
> Does anyone know the dimentions of the radiator? And the CFM 
rating 
> of the existing cooling fans? I've been thinking about installing 
> aftermarket fansm and wanted a comparison as to what would fit, 
and 
> how much more efficient stock vs. aftermarket would be.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 04:23:17 -0000
From: "malevy_nj" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DMCH struts

Now I am VERY confused.

What "misinformation" are you talking about?  The information about 
the struts being sold by DMCH were confirmed by you (James) on the 
DML message number 26857 where you write such things as:

"...problems with the struts being 5mm too long..."

"...we've sold more than 1500 of these struts..." (below, you say you 
sold 50 batches..  so, we can assume that 30 is a "batch"?)

"A 5mm increase in the length of the strut translates into a couple 
inches or so with the door fully open" (implying that this 5mm 
increase was by design, yet below you seem to indicate this was a 
vendor error?)

Lets do some math..  1 in 6 or 8 cars had a problem with the new 
struts.  1500 struts were sold (we can assume 750 SETS), so we can 
now estimate that anywhere from 95 to 125 cars were damaged by these 
struts?  Does DMCH consider that acceptable? (Feel free to correct my 
math if it is in error.)  

I think it is GREAT that DMCH has returned to the original strut 
design, and in the process lowered the cost to all DeLorean owners... 
But lets not accuse anyone of spreading misinformation, when all I 
have seen on this topic seems to be accurate.

Marc

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, James Espey <james_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> I'd like to correct this bit of misinformation that has been going 
around.
> 
> The new door struts sold by DMC (Texas) are NOT the incorrect 
length. Our
> new struts ($39.95 each) have been remanufactured exclusively for 
us to the
> original specification, from the original drawings. The only 
differences at
> this point are the black nitride finish on the shafts, and the ends 
are
> "screw-on" rather than crimped on.
> 
> Our previous supplier sent us a couple batches (about 50 or so) of 
struts
> with a slightly longer screw-on end that resulted in them not 
closing
> completely on certain cars (about 1 in 6 or 8, based on the molds 
used to
> make the underbody, near as we can ascertain). We no longer use this
> supplier for any struts on the car, or any other parts, for that 
matter. If
> anyone has any of these longer ends, send me an email and I can 
replace them
> for you.

<SNIP>




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 04:23:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Toasted Starter

When you have a problem like this start with the basics. You do need
the starter to turn the motor over at a fast enough speed. When you
get it to turn over fast enough remove a spark plug and stick your
finger over the hole. When you crank it over you should feel vacuum
and compression, this will tell you that at least  the valve timing is
close. Now crank it over again with the spark plug attached to the
wire but laying on the block, you should see a spark at regular
intervals. If you are getting spark now you have to check you are
getting fuel. You could try a SMALL squirt of starting fluid (ether)
and if you atrat getting pops or it runs for a moment then you know
you have to troubleshoot the fuel system. You need to find the system
that is not working. You could try a compression test. Check the
ignition wires that they are going to the correct cylinders, this is
the firing order. Make sure the fuel pump runs. Maybe you forgot a
plug somewhere like to the distributer? You were in so deep that there
are a lot of possabilites so you need to try to eliminate them one by
one. Try cranking it over without any spark plugs. If it runs much
better do the compression test. You may have really screwed up the
valve timing and made the engine too hard for the starter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Looks like I burned a vacation day for nothing. This thing isn't 
> going to start.
> 
> I've positioned the distributor both ways and it won't catch. Bill, 
> at DMCH asked how fast the engine was cranking.
> 
> Well, the truth is, not very, and it has to have some speed if it's 
> going to catch. I've cleaned all the ground points, battery 
> connections and such. I've got a new Optima battery _at_dml_ 700 or so cold 
> cranking amps and a trickle charger that has the 50 amp "start 
> booster" function on it. None of that makes it crank over any faster. 
> After cranking for only 5-10 seconds the starter is pretty warm to 
> the touch.
> 
> If anyone else has any other ideas I'm all ears.




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 14:49:45 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Toasted Starter

David,

Lots of good things to check. Some I've done:

1. Tonight, I will do the "finger in the spark plug hole" check. 
I thought if the chains were on wrong, you'd bend a valve for sure.
I followed the book & DMCH to the letter. I'm pretty confident I set 
that part of it right. I also cranked the engine 3 or 4 times by hand 
to make sure nothing would hit.

2. I've cranked it over w/a spark plug. It does spark regularly.

3. Starting fluid has -no- effect at all. That tells me it's timing.

4. The plugs are wet which says I have fuel. I've disconnected the 
cold start valve (electrically) to avoid flooding.

5. I'm going to check the dizzy and wire placement again tonight. I 
think I may know what it is.

Hopefully, by dealing with items 1 and 4, I'll figure it out. I know 
I'm close.

Rich


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> When you have a problem like this start with the basics. You do need
> the starter to turn the motor over at a fast enough speed. When you
> get it to turn over fast enough remove a spark plug and stick your
> finger over the hole. When you crank it over you should feel vacuum
> and compression, this will tell you that at least  the valve timing 
is
> close. Now crank it over again with the spark plug attached to the
> wire but laying on the block, you should see a spark at regular
> intervals. If you are getting spark now you have to check you are
> getting fuel. You could try a SMALL squirt of starting fluid (ether)
> and if you atrat getting pops or it runs for a moment then you know
> you have to troubleshoot the fuel system. You need to find the 
system
> that is not working. You could try a compression test. Check the
> ignition wires that they are going to the correct cylinders, this is
> the firing order. Make sure the fuel pump runs. Maybe you forgot a
> plug somewhere like to the distributer? You were in so deep that 
there
> are a lot of possabilites so you need to try to eliminate them one 
by
> one. Try cranking it over without any spark plugs. If it runs much
> better do the compression test. You may have really screwed up the
> valve timing and made the engine too hard for the starter.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Looks like I burned a vacation day for nothing. This thing isn't 
> > going to start.
> > 
> > I've positioned the distributor both ways and it won't catch. 
Bill, 
> > at DMCH asked how fast the engine was cranking.
> > 
> > Well, the truth is, not very, and it has to have some speed if 
it's 
> > going to catch. I've cleaned all the ground points, battery 
> > connections and such. I've got a new Optima battery _at_dml_ 700 or so 
cold 
> > cranking amps and a trickle charger that has the 50 amp "start 
> > booster" function on it. None of that makes it crank over any 
faster. 
> > After cranking for only 5-10 seconds the starter is pretty warm 
to 
> > the touch.
> > 
> > If anyone else has any other ideas I'm all ears.




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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 02:01:07 -0500
From: "Robert O. Greenhaw" <deloreandude_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Two Decatur, Alabama Car Shows This Saturday!!


Hey Guys,

There's going to be a couple car shows in Decatur, AL this 
Saturday, July 12, 2003, at the Delphi plant across from 
Calhoun Community College....

All I know is the cars get there early, and it lasts till the afternoon.
I haven't attended one yet, but it's a rather large show!

Then at 6PM there will be a small gathering at the Rockin' McDonald's
until about 9PM.  It's a fun lil shin-dig with Fifties music and cool
classics.

So anyone in the North Alabama region, pull out your cars and show 'em
off!

Nite everyone, I wrote this at the brink of falling asleep! hehe...
Robert Greenhaw

________________________________________________________________
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:47:31 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!

Hi everyone....just a friendly reminder that if you want to attend the
Delorean Mid Atlantic Summer Fun Run, you need to RSVP to me soon!   So
far we have 5 cars as a definate.
 
Details can be found here:
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/events.htm#funrun
 
BTW:  There is also a classic car show that day in Chester where we will
be meeting.  We can do a "Fly By" on the way to dinner and show them a
REAL parade of cars!  ;)
 
LET ME KNOW ASAP IF YOU ARE COMING SO I CAN GET A HEAD COUNT FOR
DINNER!!!
 
Thanks
 
Kevin Abato
Vin# 18860

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean_at_dml_abato.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 12:07 AM
To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
Subject: Delorean Mid Atlantic Club Summer Fun Run Update!


Hi everyone, I have been busy trying to put together details for the Mid
Atlantic club "Summer Fun Run".  Suffice to say, it is not easy planing
an event like this on such a short time frame.  Many of the ideas that I
had (and that were presented to me) did not work out, but after much
time spent I was finally able to put and event together.
 
Details can be found on the club web site events page (link below)
 
I need to start putting together a head count, so please RSVP to me
ASAP!   I will confirm details within a week and provide driving
directions.
 
http://www.deloreanmidatlantic.com/events/events.htm#funrun



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 20:29:30 -0000
From: "Charlie g" <charlie_az_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Courthouse Square in Cat in the Hat

Hey, just wanted to add for the BTTF fans out there.   That the 
courthouse plaza will be in the new Cat in the Hat movie starring 
Mike Myers currently in production, at Universal.

The courthouse will look concrete color and around the plaza (Hill 
Valley)will be Dr. Suess book style trees.

So just FYI.

CG





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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 23:04:39 -0000
From: "geek123y" <ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com>
Subject: Red Turbo Delorean

Hi everyone-

Just looked at the red turbo Delorean that was recently on eBay in 
Sanford, FL.
I was told some people were coming from out of state to look at it.  
If you are
looking for some information or pictures of the car, e-mail me. 
I'll be happy to help you out.


Ken #02700
ken_at_dml_techno-concepts.com





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