From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1588
Date: Saturday, July 19, 2003 7:19 AM

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There are 20 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Idle Speed
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>

4. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>

5. RE: Engine Compartment Light
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

6. Re: Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

7. Almost there
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

8. Second howto complete front speakers
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Outside Parking
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

10. RE: Torque values and spark gaps
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

11. RE: Idle Speed
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

12. alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>

13. RE: vacuum forming molds
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. RE: DMC found
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

15. Re: Re: Electrical Troubles
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>

16. 1700 Mile DMC FOR SALE- Michigan
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

17. SEDOC CRUISE IN, GAINESVILLE GA.
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

18. Storage
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

20. Re: Storage
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 09:40:32 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Idle Speed

I had a small oil leak, that seemed to be coming from the right side valve 
cover gasket so I cleaned off all the oil and tightened a few valve cover 
gaskets.  The leak seemed worse but the valve cover gasket was dry.  The oil was 
coming from a "hole" in the upper left hand side of the right timing chain cover. 
 I quickly figured out that this "hole" was for bolt that I was missing ever 
since I bought the car last October!  I put a bolt in, snugged it down and 
viola, no more leak.  I drove the car and notice something very interesting.  It 
now idled smoothly at the 750 rpm it was supposed to.  I was ecstatic.  So all 
this stuff about the DeLorean PRV being so sensitive to any vacuum leaks was 
true I said to myself.  When I got the car home the leak was fixed but while 
the engine was running I touched the wires going to the idle speed motor and 
all of a sudden the idle speed came back up to its previous state of rolling up 
and down between 950 and 1200.  It idles fine with the idle speed motor 
disconnected.  Is this a bad ECU?  What is the best way to trouble shoot this?

Dave & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 14:03:33 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light

I "fixed" mine by wrapping it together with soldering wire.  It was 
thin enough that it would go back inplace, yet strong enought so it 
wouldn't break apart when the switch was depressed.  

Erik


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch?  The 
little strips 
> of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now 
the 
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
> 
> Dave & 6530
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 11:05:08 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas_at_dml_Maya.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light

Epoxy?

On Friday, July 18, 2003, at 09:14  AM, doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch?  The little 
> strips
> of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now the
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
>
> Dave & 6530
--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:30:45 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <knut.s.grimsrud_at_dml_intel.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light

The engine compartment light switch is part number 101629. If it is 
broken, replace it with a new one that is not broken.

Listed as in-stock on the DMC web site for under 20 bucks.

I'm often baffled as to why it is DeLorean owners are often willing 
to spend so much time an money to avoid repairing and replacing 
stuff properly. Why muck with cludging up a "fix" to a broken switch 
when you can just get a new switch?

    Knut


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> I "fixed" mine by wrapping it together with soldering wire.  It 
was 
> thin enough that it would go back inplace, yet strong enought so 
it 
> wouldn't break apart when the switch was depressed.  
> 
> Erik
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch?  The 
> little strips 
> > of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so 
now 
> the 
> > plunger just pushes the switch apart.
> > 
> > Dave & 6530
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:06:55 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Compartment Light

Dave, The best way is to junk it and buy a new one. I tried several times to
fix them and they just kept coming apart.There are some metal plunger
switches you can purchase and they will last almost forever.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 6:15 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Engine Compartment Light


Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch?  The little
strips
of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now the
plunger just pushes the switch apart.

Dave & 6530



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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 20:56:46 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Compartment Light

Solder!!!! 

 The correct way of doing the same is with aircraft safety wire and the
special tool....

I'm just smug because I was using solder until last week when I upgraded
... :)

Jim
1537


On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 14:03:33 -0000 "erikgeerdink"
<erikgeerdink_at_dml_yahoo.com> writes:
> I "fixed" mine by wrapping it together with soldering wire.  It was 
> thin enough that it would go back inplace, yet strong enought so it 
> wouldn't break apart when the switch was depressed.  
> 
> Erik
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch?  The 
> little strips 
> > of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now 
> 
> the 
> > plunger just pushes the switch apart.



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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 15:58:12 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Almost there

My Kingdom for a fuel distributor. :)

I leaned out the CO screw today, and the car definitely caught more, 
but it's just too much fuel. Long after the engine stops cranking I 
can -hear- gas flowing into the cylinders. It's that bad.

I can smell the fuel, especially coming out of the exhaust. I tried 
adjusting the Primary Pressure Regulator but that just made it leak.

The metering plunger stuck again and only a whack from a hammer freed 
it up. (Hey, the distributor is toast anyway)

I used my kids to help set the timing. I was pretty close. You should 
see the way they jump around when they're holding the high tension 
wire! (Just kidding)

I found the short in the oil pressure gauge. That was good.
I reset the needle in the fuel gauge. It still pegs. That wasn't so 
good. I hope it's just the fuel sender and not a short in the wiring.

I'm going to stop cranking the engine until I have a new fuel distro 
and pressure test kit. I'll just end up bending a rod or something.


Rich




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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 13:18:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Second howto complete front speakers

Hello all: 
     Maybe this email wont be canxed.  The second
howto is done.  "front speaker stuff" dont really feel
like writing this all over again. questions comments
etc.


thanx

jordan 11613

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 16:36:11 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Outside Parking

Unfortunately some people don't have any respect.  They see something better 
than what they have and have to mess with it.  On the opening day of 2 fast 2 
furious I went to the theater in my friends Porsche 944 which he just had 
repainted the day before.  When we got out of the movie the car was keyed to hell. 
 Someone keyed every panel on the car.  After this experience, I don't leave 
the D unattended.  If you do store your car outside, be careful...  

Peace,

Dave
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:10:24 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Torque values and spark gaps

Be carefull even on the torque values. You might find thats to much. Use a
3/8" drive and snug the plugs down and then give it a little lock down.
Usually that's enough. Threads could be striped if to much torque.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 4:50 AM
To: dmcnewsgroup
Subject: [DML] Torque values and spark gaps


Hello all:

    The Delorean book isnt highly informative.  This
is what Ive managed to grab out of it for this
weekends project.  Some are hard to read though so I
need to be sure.

SPARK PLUGS

   TORQUE 13-15 FOOT LBS
   GAP  0.024-0.028 IN



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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:14:59 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Idle Speed

Dave,
Did you know that the oil dip stick is supposed to be sealed as best you can
down into the holder. Potential vacuum leak also.
The idle speed motor can be tested by putting a 12 volt common wire on the
center conductor and then touch the red wire or hot to one of the other
terminals. Then you can see the valve inside opening and closing.
It's better you take it off to do the test.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 6:41 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Idle Speed


I had a small oil leak, that seemed to be coming from the right side valve
cover gasket so I cleaned off all the oil and tightened a few valve cover
gaskets.  The leak seemed worse but the valve cover gasket was dry.  The oil
was
coming from a "hole" in the upper left hand side of the right timing chain
cover.
 I quickly figured out that this "hole" was for bolt that I was missing ever
since I bought the car last October!  I put a bolt in, snugged it down and
viola, no more leak.  I drove the car and notice something very interesting.
It
now idled smoothly at the 750 rpm it was supposed to.  I was ecstatic.  So
all
this stuff about the DeLorean PRV being so sensitive to any vacuum leaks was
true I said to myself.  When I got the car home the leak was fixed but while
the engine was running I touched the wires going to the idle speed motor and
all of a sudden the idle speed came back up to its previous state of rolling
up
and down between 950 and 1200.  It idles fine with the idle speed motor
disconnected.  Is this a bad ECU?  What is the best way to trouble shoot
this?

Dave & 6530



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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:18:35 -0000
From: "TalksToGod" <5n-_at_dml_gmx.net>
Subject: alternator/volt gauge/a short....whats the score here

I am having a tough time with my DeLorean's electrical system. The
case is- my regular Motorolla alternator is producing only 10.5 volts
shown on the gauge constant. Constant meaning-When I am to put on my
headlighs or my fan (heat/AC) the voltage will drop down. The problem
is-with my headlights on and the gauge running well below 10.5-I
cannot accelerate there simply is not enough power to run my
headlights and run the engine at the same time hence there is a power
drop in my motor which comes immediatly back once the lights or
whatever is on is shut off. My thoughts were a bad
alternator/battery/contacts/etc. Now I have come across something that
stumps the hell out of me-whenever it rains and i drive the car, the
gauge will show a constant reading inbetween the middle 13, and the
orange lower mark-it is about 12 or 11.5 volts. At this reading with
my lights on and even my fan on, my engine still has enough power to
run good at higher RPMs. With this, I figure the water is creating a
ground-so I must have a short somewhere. If anynone can suggest a
place to look a place to start-or maybe you have had a similar
situation which you fixed-I would appreciate to hear what you have to
say. To clear up more on what I already tested-I ran the engine and
unplugged all the fuses that wouldn't stop the engine from
running-still 10.5, also cleaned up alternator contacts aswell as
starter contacts. I was considering the purchase of a 150 AMP
alternator from Specialty, but if I can fix my current problem, I
could really use the save of almost 300 dollars. Alternator has new
brushes etc. thanks again for the help guys--Dani




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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:17:21 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: vacuum forming molds

John, To my knowledge new ones are available.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: painintheass7565 [mailto:advantics_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 5:29 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] vacuum forming molds


I am amazed to see how many plastic parts on our D's were vacuum
formed, such as the battery access cover one of my D's is missing.
Does anyone sell these parts new? Does anyone know what happened to
the production molds that these parts were made from? I have a
plastic vacuum forming business, and thought about making a couple of
molds but if they're available, I won't waste the time.

John Salva
VIN 5326 & 1383



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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 17:23:04 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: DMC found

Scott, The fuel system can be quite costly to update and repair about
$1500.00 depending on if you do it all the way. From injectors to fuel
filter. I can walk you through it if needed.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com,

-----Original Message-----
From: sharkywtrs [mailto:dmc83n99_at_dml_cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 9:09 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] DMC found


Hello all;

I have a friend here in Pensacola who is looking for a De Lorean.
Recently he found one for a very nice price.  I have not had a
chance to go over the car yet, but as usual, this car has sat for
some time.  The owner says that it has been started, but needless to
say I'm expecting a full fuel system restore.  Here is the
question;  the owner says that the car will start, but if he doesn't
pour a small amount of gas into the tank it will stall.  Now, I'm
going on the assumption that the owner understands how the fuel
gauge works and that it's just not out of gas.  Any ideas?

Scott



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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 00:55:05 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Electrical Troubles

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 15:04:15 -0000, Knut Grimsrud wrote:

> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Louie Golden wrote:
>> ... It'll show 10.5 volts on the gague,
>> and read almost 14 straight from the battery.
[snip]
> If the voltage for the same rail is different in two places,
> then you should ask yourself why that's the case if they
> are electrically connected.

Please DO remember that this only goes when using the same
meter for both measurements... So this would only truly be
the case when you've taken your multi meter and put it on the
battery, measured 14 volts, then used the connection for the
meter behind the dash to measure there with the multi meter...

For all you know the dash gauge's calibration is WAY off,
it certainly wouldn't surprise me if it was...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
Shifting Expectations...   Driving a Nissan...

DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------





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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 19:02:03 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: 1700 Mile DMC FOR SALE- Michigan

Hi,
       A friend of mine found a 1983 DeLorean for sale in Grand Rapids this 
week. Please don't email me for information as I wont be on a computer for a 
few weeks...The seller seems quite motivated to sell, maybe a concours 
candidate?

5spd
1700 original Miles
$23,500
contact ALAN at 616-942-4550 or 616-942-5078

Peace
Dave,
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 00:37:17 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>
Subject: SEDOC CRUISE IN, GAINESVILLE GA.

HEY! Y'ALL

HERE IT IS:

INFORMATION Y'ALL HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR!

JOHN HERVEY OF SPECIALTAUTO.COM HAS BEEN GRACIOUS ENOUGH TO SET US UP 
ON HIS WEB SITE FOR REGISTRATION AND EVENT INFORMATION.

PRESENTERS:

STEPHEN WYNNE
JOHN HERVEY
BOB ZILLA
BYRNE HENINGER
KEN KONCELIL
AND MUCH MORE

INFORMATION ABOUT THE EVENT, PARTICIPANTS,ROAD ATLANTA,HOUSING, 
LOCATION AND CONTACT POINTS CAN BE FOUND ON HIS WEB SITE.

PRE REGISTRATION DRAWINGS:  BIG TIME!!!!!GO TO SITE FOR INFO:

MORE TO FOLLOW:

JOHN JORDAN
PRESIDENT 
SEDOC (SOUTHEAST DELOREAN OWNERS CLUB)
404 562 6075












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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:03:58 EDT
From: Delorean17_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Storage

I decided to straighten out my priorities so the D car is going to sit for a 
while.  School is starting soon and I don't need to be paying insurance on two 
cars.  I drove the car to my parents house and completely detailed it.  I 
purchased some cinder blocks at Home Depot so the Yokohama's don't get flat 
spots.  (All fluids were changed including brakes)
       I am wondering if I should drain the gas out of the tank.  It is about 
1/4 full.  The next time I pull the car out will probably be for Pigeon 
Forge.  Will fuel stabilizer do the trick?  I just don't want to ruin all the new 
fuel system parts I have installed.  I wont be on a computer for a week or two 
but I will read the posts when I return. 

Thanks

Dave
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 02:10:52 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light

If you're referring to the bottom of the switch pushing out, I fixed 
mine with crazy glue about 10 years ago. So far so good.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Is there a way to fix the engine compartment light switch?  The 
little strips 
> of plastic that hold the "guts" inside the body have broken so now 
the 
> plunger just pushes the switch apart.
> 
> Dave & 6530
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2003 02:15:20 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Storage

Put fuel stabilzer in it, RUN IT to circulate the stabilizer into the 
system, then drain the tank. The parts inside the tank hold up better 
in no gas than in stale gas. Condensation is the normal reason given 
for storing cars with a full tank, this is not much of an issue with 
a plastic tank. I may get some argument on this but I still believe 
empty is better.

Dave Swingle



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Delorean17_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I decided to straighten out my priorities so the D car is going to 
sit for a 
> while. ....  I am wondering if I should drain the gas out of the 
tank.  It is about 
> 1/4 full.  The next time I pull the car out will probably be for 
Pigeon 
> Forge.  Will fuel stabilizer do the trick?  ]




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