From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1590
Date: Monday, July 21, 2003 7:55 AM

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Idle Speed
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: A/C System Questions.
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

3. Re: Torque values and spark gaps
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

4. Another HOWTO completed - OIL Change
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. Re: Engine Compartment Light - substitute
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

6. Oil sending unit blues
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. RE: Another HOWTO completed - OIL Change
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

12. Fuel Line Banjo Connections. ( was: Re: Torque values and spark gaps)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 04:20:48 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed

Use whatever spray tickles your fancy -- brake cleaner (tell me THAT
doesn't stink when it gets sucked into engine), electrical contact
cleaner, whatever. The point is to direct an aimable stream of
something that will interfere with combustion at suspect locations.
Can't just blanket engine willy nilly because you'll never know where
leak is (can't use foaming cleanser).

BTW: This isn't a "trick". It is a diagnostic tool. Point isn't to
hide problems but to expose them.

If you're worried about safety, check out Message #33577...

I guess each owner is entitled to do with his or her car as he or she
wishes. My ultimate goal is an engine that idles 100% constant. Am
SOOO close (only leak I can find now is crank seal in timing chain
cover). And this is without "benefit" of a throttle bypass motor.

PS: I'll let incompetent mechanic inference slide because DeLo shares
driveway with 7 domestics, all of which purr like big cats (well, the
AMC purrs like a kitten). Based on the numbers, JZD created problem,
not me...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "IN2TIME" <Gary_at_dml_I...> wrote:
> OK, Even I have used Carb Cleaner to test for vacuum leaks. 
> 
> But remember the warnings. Carb Cleaners are very volatile, poisonous
> mixtures of Xylene, Alcohol, Acetone, etc., and they can even dry
out and
> deteriorate rubber with extended and/or repeated exposure.
> 
> Sometimes an old mechanics trick really is an old mechanics "TRICK".
If he
> sprays the injector seals, etc. with Carb Cleaner every time he
works on the
> car, he will eventually find the leaks he caused.
> 
> :-)
> 
> Just my 2 cents.
> 
> Gary
> IN2TIME




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 01:34:46 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: A/C System Questions.

I replaced both of the AC hoses in my car-  Same story as Jonas, but mine
cost $50 for each hose.  I also had them put in a male/female inline
connector so that i could "thread" the hoses through the frame without
lifting the body from the frame.  It changed a day job into an hour job. 

If you take off the old hoses, you can bring them into an AC repair shop
and they should be able to reconstruct something of the same length.

Jim 
1537


On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 01:49:01 -0700 (PDT) Jonas Pitchford
<Delorean3543_at_dml_yahoo.com> writes:
> I had my low side hose replaced for about 100.00, The proper hose 
> usually sells by the inch. It was done by a local A/C shop and they 
> had one of the fittings in stock. The other one (the one that goes 
> to the compressor) was cut off of my old hose, they pressed a 
> standard fitting onto the end of the hose and then welded my old one 
> to that one. Everything has worked fine since.
> Jonas
> 3543 
> 
> 



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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 09:37:28 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Torque values and spark gaps

If they are the fuel lines to the fuel dist you need torque specs for dont bother,
tighten them down with new copper washers so they are snug and then give them about 1/2
turn and check for leaks and if you see them leaking snug it down a little more. I found
in the manual some where it was like 13 or 14 lbs of torque for the fuel line to dist
bolts, i tried this and almost snapped one of the botls off in my fuel dist it should be
more like 3 to 5 lbs.

Mark
6683

jordan rubin wrote:

> what i really needed was that values for the fuel
> distributor.
>
> jordan 11613
> --- John Hervey <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com> wrote:
> > Be carefull even on the torque values. You might
> > find thats to much. Use a
> > 3/8" drive and snug the plugs down and then give it
> > a little lock down.
> > Usually that's enough. Threads could be striped if
> > to much torque.
> > John Hervey
> 



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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 10:52:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Another HOWTO completed - OIL Change

Hello all:

    Another day at the shop has produced yet another
detailed Howto for the Delorean.  I dont know where I
get my strength from.  

    Check it out!
    Tear it up!
    Gimme feedback!
    Correct my spelling!!!!!

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

thanx

Jordan 11613

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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 14:12:34 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light - substitute

In a message dated 7/19/2003 11:09:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sand131_at_dml_aol.com writes:


> Where can I find a Opel Corsa's 
> dealer or parts supplier in the Chicago Area? What is the GM Part # ? O hell 
> 
> never mind I will just get it from Grady or Epoxy the old one
> 

I typically use original replacement parts, but John has a much sturdier 
abiet less scenic looking version for sale on his site:  www.specialTauto.com

Wayne
11174


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 11:14:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Oil sending unit blues

Hello all:


    For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.

It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
because  the unit it connects to was broken.

I was positive this is what needed replacing
shown on left  with wire next to area without oil
filter 

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/oilsender/dsc01564.jpg


This is what I got when i asked for the oil sending
unit to fix the gauge
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/oilsender/dsc01556.jpg


These cannot be the same thing
http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/oilsender/dsc01574.jpg

So what the hell is this thing and what should i be
buying to fix the oil gauge.

I asked for the unit that FIXES the oil gauge, this is
what i got.  This cant be right.  any thoughts.

thanx

jordan 11613

__________________________________
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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:41:06 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Oil sending unit blues

There are two oil pressure sending units. The large one next to the 
oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small one above the 
catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light. Sounds like you 
have the right thing but are trying to put it in the wrong place. A 
common problem.......

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
> 
>     For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> 
> It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> because  the unit it connects to was broken.
> 
> I was positive this is what needed replacing
> shown on left  with wire next to area without oil
> filter 
>




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:49:29 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Jordan

I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you have the right 
part, and the right place, but something is amiss in your car. 
Someone before you has probably removed the thread adapter. The part 
you have as the "new" one is the common part used, the threads on 
your old one look way too big. What does the block look like with the sender removed? 

The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very close to metric M-1.0 
pipe thread.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> There are two oil pressure sending units. The large one next to the 
> oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small one above the 
> catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light. Sounds like you 
> have the right thing but are trying to put it in the wrong place. A 
> common problem.......
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > Hello all:
> > 
> > 
> >     For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> > was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> > 
> > It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> > because  the unit it connects to was broken.
> > 
> > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > shown on left  with wire next to area without oil
> > filter 
> >




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 15:54:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues

    The problem that im having is with the gauge.  I
know the one next to the oil filter is for the gauge
because if I ground that wire on the unit the gauge
will go to zero.

    I do believe that ive been given the wrong unit. 
I dont know how the supplier could have confused this
if I said the symptom was the needle was always stuck
on 80.  The dummy light of course having a boolean,
non numerical value.

    It just kinda took me back that something like
this could have happened.  The day at the auto shop
left me really annoyed

    So Is there a different nomenclature or part
number I should specify to the vendor?  Ill be
speaking with them tommorrow.

thanx

jordan 11613 



--- Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:
> There are two oil pressure sending units. The large
> one next to the 
> oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small
> one above the 
> catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light.
> Sounds like you 
> have the right thing but are trying to put it in the
> wrong place. A 
> common problem.......
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin
> <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
> wrote:
> > Hello all:
> > 
> > 
> >     For those who enjoyed my oil change howto,
> there
> > was a second job i was doing while the oil was
> empty.
> > 
> > It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> > because  the unit it connects to was broken.
> > 
> > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > shown on left  with wire next to area without oil
> > filter 
> >
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 01:00:39 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Jordan

Good work on the How To Guides. As for your sending unit, it looks 
like you are missing the sender adaptor (and washer) part 102821 
(and 102013). The OEM oil sender requires this and the replacement 
you ordered assumed you have not removed it. The sender you removed 
is not one I recognize as any kind of workable replacement and, in 
order to make it fit, someone obviously removed the adaptor. There 
are very few gauge senders that can properly operate the DMC gauge. 
The one you have purchased looks like a proper replacement - just 
get an adaptor and you should be fine.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
> 
>     For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> 
> It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> because  the unit it connects to was broken.
> 
> I was positive this is what needed replacing
> shown on left  with wire next to area without oil
> filter 
> 
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/oilsender/dsc01564.jpg
> 
> 
> This is what I got when i asked for the oil sending
> unit to fix the gauge
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/oilsender/dsc01556.jpg
> 
> 
> These cannot be the same thing
> http://retroserver.no-ip.com/delorean/oilsender/dsc01574.jpg
> 
> So what the hell is this thing and what should i be
> buying to fix the oil gauge.
> 
> I asked for the unit that FIXES the oil gauge, this is
> what i got.  This cant be right.  any thoughts.
> 
> thanx
> 
> jordan 11613
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 14:53:13 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Another HOWTO completed - OIL Change

step 3:
"clean the connection of required." should be "if required".

Very good.

Here's a suggestion: since 1/5th of a quart will sit around for three months
doing nothing, why not "waste" it? Only it's not really getting wasted-- it
will serve a good purpose.
I like to pour that extra fifth into the engine while the plug is out. It
pushes a little more old oil out. I get down and watch it until I see clean
oil coming out and then stick the plug in there. Then, just watch the levels
so that you don't overfill.
I like to finish the sixth quart and run it for a few seconds, let it sit a
few seconds and check to see how much it still needs.

-Kevin

-----Original Message-----
From: jordan rubin [mailto:nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2003 12:53 PM
To: dmcnewsgroup
Subject: [DML] Another HOWTO completed - OIL Change


Hello all:

    Another day at the shop has produced yet another
detailed Howto for the Delorean.  I dont know where I
get my strength from.

    Check it out!
    Tear it up!
    Gimme feedback!
    Correct my spelling!!!!!

http://retroserver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html

thanx

Jordan 11613

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com


To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 20:49:56 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Fuel Line Banjo Connections. ( was: Re: Torque values and spark gaps)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> If they are the fuel lines to the fuel dist you need torque specs for dont 
bother,
> tighten them down with new copper washers so they are snug and then give 
them about 1/2
> turn and check for leaks and if you see them leaking snug it down a little 
more. I found
> in the manual some where it was like 13 or 14 lbs of torque for the fuel line 
to dist
> bolts, i tried this and almost snapped one of the botls off in my fuel dist it 
should be
> more like 3 to 5 lbs.
> 
> Mark
> 6683

Been there, and done that. Over torqued the inlet bolt on the Control Pressure 
Regulator. Snapped right off. I was VERY fortunate that the local Volvo shop 
let me rummage thru their old parts piles, and that they just happened to have 
that one bolt!

On the subject of washers, I have discovered that copper washers are VERY 
hard to come by. My local BOSCH parts supplier doesn't even stock them! 
However, it seems that ALUMINIUM washers have now taken their place! I've 
had aluminium washers running on my car now for over 30K miles, and 
they've held up just fine. So if you can't find copper, I'm sure that aluminium is 
more likely to be available, if not plentiful. Just show them your sample, and 
ask for it in aluminium.

-Robert
vin 6585  "X"




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