From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1591
Date: Monday, July 21, 2003 7:16 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Oil Pressure Sending Unit Thread Patterns
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. RE: New master clutch problem - solved
From: massimot <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>

4. Caravan to SEDOC?
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

5. Delorean Mid-Atlantic Summer Fun Run
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

6. Idle Speed ECU
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

7. Different Idle Speed ECUs?
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

8. I'm Baaaaaack!!!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Fuel Line Banjo Connections. ( was: Re: Torque values and spark gaps)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

11. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: How much Dot 4 to replace clutch line? What grad of (sandpaper?) to buff scr
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. The Last Piece For Sale
From: "bob_this2003" <bob_this2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Door Struts
From: "barbara0062" <phoenix_at_dml_eticomm.net>

15. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

17. RE: Door Struts
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. Re: Door Struts
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

19. AW: AW: Engine Compartment Light
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

20. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net

21. Re: Idle Speed ECU
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

22. Re: Idle Speed ECU
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

23. RE: Different Idle Speed ECUs?
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

24. RE: Idle Speed ECU
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

25. Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 23:07:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues

I recall that it didnt screw directly into the block.  there was a metal connector? sticking 1in out from the engine, there were 2 copper washers between the unit and this connector.
 
  I may have  picture of this at home ill send it tonite.
 
 
thanx
 
jordan 11613
 


Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:
Jordan

I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you have the right 
part, and the right place, but something is amiss in your car. 
Someone before you has probably removed the thread adapter. The part 
you have as the "new" one is the common part used, the threads on 
your old one look way too big. What does the block look like with the sender removed? 

The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very close to metric M-1.0 
pipe thread.

Dave S

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" wrote:
> There are two oil pressure sending units. The large one next to the 
> oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small one above the 
> catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light. Sounds like you 
> have the right thing but are trying to put it in the wrong place. A 
> common problem.......
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin 
> wrote:
> > Hello all:
> > 
> > 
> > For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> > was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> > 
> > It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> > because the unit it connects to was broken.
> > 
> > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > shown on left with wire next to area without oil
> > filter 
> >



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 04:17:09 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Oil Pressure Sending Unit Thread Patterns

1/4" NPT is 1/2" actual pipe size. Is also 18 TPI. Don't think that
was stock...

John Hervey's senders are 1/8" BSPT. He advertises as stock
compatible, which would make sense because all the vacuum fittings and
the thermostat bleeder screw are same.

>From what I gather as DeLo late comer, stock compatible replacement
parts used to be much harder to come by. May explain things like
re-threaded oil pressure sending unit ports. My car didn't even have
electrical sender -- PO had replaced with capillary tube to under dash
gauge. Drilled and tapped to 1/2" NPT! Since dash gauge is 100%, can
only figure he couldn't find suitable electrical sender. Remember that
calibration is odd too: 0 to 80 PSI.

I had no trouble finding 1/2" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapter. Would imagine
no matter what was done to block in the past, everyone should be able
to return to stock compatible sending units now.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Jordan
> 
> I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you have the right 
> part, and the right place, but something is amiss in your car. 
> Someone before you has probably removed the thread adapter. The part 
> you have as the "new" one is the common part used, the threads on 
> your old one look way too big. What does the block look like with
the sender removed? 
> 
> The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very close to metric M-1.0 
> pipe thread.
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > There are two oil pressure sending units. The large one next to the 
> > oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small one above the 
> > catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light. Sounds like you 
> > have the right thing but are trying to put it in the wrong place. A 
> > common problem.......
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Hello all:
> > > 
> > > 
> > >     For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> > > was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> > > 
> > > It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> > > because  the unit it connects to was broken.
> > > 
> > > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > > shown on left  with wire next to area without oil
> > > filter 
> > >




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 22:48:17 -0600
From: massimot <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com>
Subject: RE: New master clutch problem - solved

Last week I posted a message to the DML about my clutch problem, I had 
many replies and I thank all of those that did. Just to report on the 
fix. Everyone was right I needed to bleed the line again. This time I 
persuaded my wife to help me and it made a big difference. She pressed 
the clutch pedal while I refilled the bottle and checked the line, I 
think the trick was to keep the clutch pedal pressed while I tightened 
the bleeder valve, a tip from a DMLer.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone on the DML and 
the people that run it. I am a family man with 2 small children, 
probably like many of you, and I barely have time to work on my car let 
alone spend hours doing research trying to find the answer somewhere. I 
know that there are archives and magazines that probably would contain 
the solution but I just don't have the time to look through it all. So 
again I thank you for putting up with my problem and for the prompt 
responses.

Spike
VIN #4819

"bluemax86" <massimot_at_dml_rushmore.com> wrote:


>>Hi all,
>>
>>This is my first post to the list. I have recently replaced my master
>>clutch cylinder. Since then the pedal feels rather light until the
>>very end and there is maybe 1/2" travel between the clutch being
>>fully depressed and when it starts to engage. 
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 20:23:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Caravan to SEDOC?

Hey List!

Bill Robertson and myself are talking about caravaning to the SEDOC meet, and wondered if anyone else would be interested. We'd meet in Charlotte, NC on Friday the 19th, and travel down I-85 to Georgia. We've haven't discussed departure times or anything yet. If anyone wants to meet up anywhere between Charlotte and Gainsville... drop me an email at Louie(at)DeLorean.com .

Louie
VIN 10115

_____________________________________________________________
See what you missed! Read the report on the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 07:10:53 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: Delorean Mid-Atlantic Summer Fun Run

Yesterday was the Delorean Mid Atlantic Summer Fun Run.   We had such a
good time all day that we kept extending the day and we added a new
activity at the end to keep enjoying!
 
I will be posting pictures to the club web site in the next few days.  I
will let you know when they are up.
 
Kevin Abato
Vin# 16680


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 08:55:10 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Idle Speed ECU

Does anyone have the schematic for the idle speed ECU?

Do they fail in any particular modes?

Thanks

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 09:09:29 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Different Idle Speed ECUs?

I have read in some posts that there are 1200 rpm, 900 rpm and 750rpm ECUs in 
the DeLorean.  Is this true?

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:38:16 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: I'm Baaaaaack!!!!!

I just had my appendix removed this week so I have not been responding
to the DML since Tuesday evening. My E-mails were also a little backed
up but I'am back now! For anyone that had their mail bounce back
because my e-mail was full just try resending.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:40:37 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Marty Maier has the best replacement going. It will make the gauge
work like it was supposed to and not stay at 80 psi all the time the
engine is running and it doesn't need any special fittings to make it fit!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I recall that it didnt screw directly into the block.  there was a
metal connector? sticking 1in out from the engine, there were 2 copper
washers between the unit and this connector.
>  
>   I may have  picture of this at home ill send it tonite.
>  
>  
> thanx
>  
> jordan 11613
>  
> 
> 
> Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Jordan
> 
> I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you have the right 
> part, and the right place, but something is amiss in your car. 
> Someone before you has probably removed the thread adapter. The part 
> you have as the "new" one is the common part used, the threads on 
> your old one look way too big. What does the block look like with
the sender removed? 
> 
> The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very close to metric M-1.0 
> pipe thread.
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" wrote:
> > There are two oil pressure sending units. The large one next to the 
> > oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small one above the 
> > catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light. Sounds like you 
> > have the right thing but are trying to put it in the wrong place. A 
> > common problem.......
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin 
> > wrote:
> > > Hello all:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> > > was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> > > 
> > > It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> > > because the unit it connects to was broken.
> > > 
> > > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > > shown on left with wire next to area without oil
> > > filter 
> > >
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:43:28 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Fuel Line Banjo Connections. ( was: Re: Torque values and spark gaps)

You can do anything you want on your car but I would not recomend
aluminum instead of copper. Copper is a lot softer and will not leak
as easily. I have seen aluminum washers on hydralic systems but with a
rubber washer inside.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> > If they are the fuel lines to the fuel dist you need torque specs
for dont 





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:36:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Sounds like an adapter to interface to your now dead sender. Block may
still be stock tapped, in which case all you have to do is remove
adapter and screw in new unit. If block now has different thread
pattern don't sweat it -- adapters are available to interface almost
any bolt patterns. Even if something goes dramatically wrong (adapter
now in it removes hunk of aluminum on the way out, or breaks off), you
can drill or tap to something that will work.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> I recall that it didnt screw directly into the block.  there was a
metal connector? sticking 1in out from the engine, there were 2 copper
washers between the unit and this connector.
>  
>   I may have  picture of this at home ill send it tonite.
>  
>  
> thanx
>  
> jordan 11613
>  
> 
> 
> Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Jordan
> 
> I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you have the right 
> part, and the right place, but something is amiss in your car. 
> Someone before you has probably removed the thread adapter. The part 
> you have as the "new" one is the common part used, the threads on 
> your old one look way too big. What does the block look like with
the sender removed? 
> 
> The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very close to metric M-1.0 
> pipe thread.
> 
> Dave S
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle" wrote:
> > There are two oil pressure sending units. The large one next to the 
> > oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The small one above the 
> > catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot" light. Sounds like you 
> > have the right thing but are trying to put it in the wrong place. A 
> > common problem.......
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin 
> > wrote:
> > > Hello all:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > For those who enjoyed my oil change howto, there
> > > was a second job i was doing while the oil was empty.
> > > 
> > > It was established that my oil gauge was at 80psi
> > > because the unit it connects to was broken.
> > > 
> > > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > > shown on left with wire next to area without oil
> > > filter 
> > >
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_d...
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:53:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: How much Dot 4 to replace clutch line? What grad of (sandpaper?) to buff scr

Get 3-4 pints. It stays good as long as you don't open the seal so any
extra you can use to top off the brakes or for flushing them. 
For the scratch you can start with 80 # go to 120 and finish with a
blending pad. STAY WITH THE GRAIN!. Do not change the direction or you
will have a lot more work correcting.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve_at_dml_r...> wrote:
> How much Dot 4 to replace clutch line? What grad of (sandpaper?) to 
> buff scratch




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:47:56 -0000
From: "bob_this2003" <bob_this2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: The Last Piece For Sale

I recently recieved the last piece of my Dads ole silverbyrd ... 
Beilve it or not my mother sent me the spare tire that was never 
used that she kept under the bed (long story)  I have no use for it 
so I'm looking for offers.   I'd prefer trading for it.

let me know 

bob_this2003(at)yahoo.com 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:50:58 -0000
From: "barbara0062" <phoenix_at_dml_eticomm.net>
Subject: Door Struts

Hello,

I'm having problems changing the drivers side door strut. I took the 
pins out and the strut won't budge. Also whats the best thing to use 
on the plastic louvres that cover the back window. Is there anything 
else I can do to make the car look nice because I'm taking it to a 
car show.

AJ & Barbara




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 09:53:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Hello all:

   Was under the car today because of another problem,
 Took a look at the unit.  Indeed there is an adapter
and a copper seal.  They look to be in good condition,
i dont forsee removing them to be a problem.  
   Today I have ordered the correct size adapter and
the cooper seal.  If somebody knows how much oil I
stand to loose by removing and replacing this without
draining the oil let me know.  If its not too much
(1+qt) ill get it on the lift the weekend the part
arrives.  I cant see it being too much...

   Does anyone NOT recommend doing this unless I empty
the oil first, or better yet, is there anyone out the
who does NOT recommend removing the oil filter and
putting it back on. (To make room to work and HOWTO
picture stuff.

   The thing is, i want to get this done but just
changed the oil yesterday.


thanx

jordan 11613


--- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> Sounds like an adapter to interface to your now dead
> sender. Block may
> still be stock tapped, in which case all you have to
> do is remove
> adapter and screw in new unit. If block now has
> different thread
> pattern don't sweat it -- adapters are available to
> interface almost
> any bolt patterns. Even if something goes
> dramatically wrong (adapter
> now in it removes hunk of aluminum on the way out,
> or breaks off), you
> can drill or tap to something that will work.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin
> <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...>
> wrote:
> > I recall that it didnt screw directly into the
> block.  there was a
> metal connector? sticking 1in out from the engine,
> there were 2 copper
> washers between the unit and this connector.
> >  
> >   I may have  picture of this at home ill send it
> tonite.
> >  
> >  
> > thanx
> >  
> > jordan 11613
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > Jordan
> > 
> > I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you
> have the right 
> > part, and the right place, but something is amiss
> in your car. 
> > Someone before you has probably removed the thread
> adapter. The part 
> > you have as the "new" one is the common part used,
> the threads on 
> > your old one look way too big. What does the block
> look like with
> the sender removed? 
> > 
> > The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very
> close to metric M-1.0 
> > pipe thread.
> > 
> > Dave S
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle"
> wrote:
> > > There are two oil pressure sending units. The
> large one next to the 
> > > oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The
> small one above the 
> > > catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot"
> light. Sounds like you 
> > > have the right thing but are trying to put it in
> the wrong place. A 
> > > common problem.......
> > > 
> > > Dave S
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Hello all:
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > For those who enjoyed my oil change howto,
> there
> > > > was a second job i was doing while the oil was
> empty.
> > > > 
> > > > It was established that my oil gauge was at
> 80psi
> > > > because the unit it connects to was broken.
> > > > 
> > > > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > > > shown on left with wire next to area without
> oil
> > > > filter 
> > > >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > 
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:41:02 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues


No oil leaked out when I changed my Oil Sending unit.  The level must be below the unit.  Don't worry about it.

-Hank #1619

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jordan rubin" <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Oil sending unit blues


> Hello all:
> 
>    Was under the car today because of another problem,
>  Took a look at the unit.  Indeed there is an adapter
> and a copper seal.  They look to be in good condition,
> i dont forsee removing them to be a problem.  
>    Today I have ordered the correct size adapter and
> the cooper seal.  If somebody knows how much oil I
> stand to loose by removing and replacing this without
> draining the oil let me know.  If its not too much
> (1+qt) ill get it on the lift the weekend the part
> arrives.  I cant see it being too much...
> 
>    Does anyone NOT recommend doing this unless I empty
> the oil first, or better yet, is there anyone out the
> who does NOT recommend removing the oil filter and
> putting it back on. (To make room to work and HOWTO
> picture stuff.
> 
>    The thing is, i want to get this done but just
> changed the oil yesterday.
> 
> 
> thanx
> 
> jordan 11613
> 
> 
> --- content22207 <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net> wrote:
> > Sounds like an adapter to interface to your now dead
> > sender. Block may
> > still be stock tapped, in which case all you have to
> > do is remove
> > adapter and screw in new unit. If block now has
> > different thread
> > pattern don't sweat it -- adapters are available to
> > interface almost
> > any bolt patterns. Even if something goes
> > dramatically wrong (adapter
> > now in it removes hunk of aluminum on the way out,
> > or breaks off), you
> > can drill or tap to something that will work.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin
> > <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...>
> > wrote:
> > > I recall that it didnt screw directly into the
> > block.  there was a
> > metal connector? sticking 1in out from the engine,
> > there were 2 copper
> > washers between the unit and this connector.
> > >  
> > >   I may have  picture of this at home ill send it
> > tonite.
> > >  
> > >  
> > > thanx
> > >  
> > > jordan 11613
> > >  
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Dave Swingle <swingle_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > > Jordan
> > > 
> > > I took a closer look at your pic - looks like you
> > have the right 
> > > part, and the right place, but something is amiss
> > in your car. 
> > > Someone before you has probably removed the thread
> > adapter. The part 
> > > you have as the "new" one is the common part used,
> > the threads on 
> > > your old one look way too big. What does the block
> > look like with
> > the sender removed? 
> > > 
> > > The thread on the sender is 1/4 inch NPT, very
> > close to metric M-1.0 
> > > pipe thread.
> > > 
> > > Dave S
> > > 
> > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Dave Swingle"
> > wrote:
> > > > There are two oil pressure sending units. The
> > large one next to the 
> > > > oil filter is the sender for the gauge. The
> > small one above the 
> > > > catalytic converter is for the oil "idiot"
> > light. Sounds like you 
> > > > have the right thing but are trying to put it in
> > the wrong place. A 
> > > > common problem.......
> > > > 
> > > > Dave S
> > > > 
> > > > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin 
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > Hello all:
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > For those who enjoyed my oil change howto,
> > there
> > > > > was a second job i was doing while the oil was
> > empty.
> > > > > 
> > > > > It was established that my oil gauge was at
> > 80psi
> > > > > because the unit it connects to was broken.
> > > > > 
> > > > > I was positive this is what needed replacing
> > > > > shown on left with wire next to area without
> > oil
> > > > > filter 
> > > > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > > 
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see
> > www.dmcnews.com
> > > 
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > > 
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> > > 
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > To address comments privately to the moderating
> > team, please address:
> > moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> > 
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> > sale see www.dmcnews.com
> > 
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> > 
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:43:35 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Door Struts

AJ & Barbara, I have a two inch wood piece that's about 3/4" thick, I slip
it between the strut rod and body and give it a tap while I'm holding the
door up or someone else is. Pops right off without hurting anything.
The black louver can be painted with different brands and shades of black. I
used Krylon semi flat black and held the spray back a little futher to give
it that matted look.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: barbara0062 [mailto:phoenix_at_dml_eticomm.net]
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 9:51 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Door Struts


Hello,

I'm having problems changing the drivers side door strut. I took the
pins out and the strut won't budge. Also whats the best thing to use
on the plastic louvres that cover the back window. Is there anything
else I can do to make the car look nice because I'm taking it to a
car show.

AJ & Barbara



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 11:25:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Door Struts

Have you tried tapping on it with a hammer? They can get pretty stubborn, and that's what I've had to do. Also, make sure and use some form of grease when you put on the new struts... it keeps the studs from wearing down, and also makes the struts easier to remove. 

For the louvers, use Meguires Trim Wax... it may go by that name, or "Back to Black." The stuff works magic on even the worst faded louvers. This can be used on any of the black plastic trim on the car, and I find if you bite the bullet and do it all... it really makes the car stand out. 

If you really want to make your stainless shine, get a scrub pad/brush and wash the car by hand. Once it's dry, use the Foaming Windex in a can (make sure it's Windex... and it's in a can... it works better than anything) on it to finish the look. The scrubbing makes the grain clean, and the stainless sparkle; while the foaming Windex gets rid of water spots, and really makes the stainless glow.

-Louie VIN 10115

--- "barbara0062" <phoenix_at_dml_eticomm.net> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I'm having problems changing the drivers side door strut. I took the 
>pins out and the strut won't budge. Also whats the best thing to use 
>on the plastic louvres that cover the back window. Is there anything 
>else I can do to make the car look nice because I'm taking it to a 
>car show.
>
>AJ & Barbara

_____________________________________________________________
See what you missed! Read the report on the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 21:15:01 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: AW: Engine Compartment Light


GM # 90033510

I bet these switches are used in many other GM cars, too.
Glove Box, trunk.....

Elvis 6548


Where can I find a Opel Corsa's
 dealer or parts supplier in the Chicago Area? What is the GM Part # ? O
hell
never mind I will just get it from Grady or Epoxy the old one
Ralph VIN 1606





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 19:41:15 +0000
From: mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Why not just change the oil while you are at it?
It doesn't hurt at all to change it too often.

--
Mike

> Hello all:
> 
>    Was under the car today because of another problem,
>  Took a look at the unit.  Indeed there is an adapter
> and a copper seal.  They look to be in good condition,
> i dont forsee removing them to be a problem.  
>    Today I have ordered the correct size adapter and
> the cooper seal.  If somebody knows how much oil I
> stand to loose by removing and replacing this without
> draining the oil let me know.  



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 21:06:21 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed ECU

They do fail from time to time and it's usually one of the chips on the 
board, of which there are around 7 or 8 and all available for a few 
pence/cents. We had one car in that would idle fine for 3 seconds, then 
rocket to 1200rpm and stay there. We can repair them.

Actually, if anyone has a spare, I'm after an extra one!

Martin

doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

>Does anyone have the schematic for the idle speed ECU?
>
>Do they fail in any particular modes?
>
>Thanks
>
>Dave
>6530
>
>  
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 19:44:43 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed ECU

The ones I've observed fail such that the car will idle at a very 
high (1200+) RPM. Unplugging the module will return the idle to about 
800 but it will  NOT be regulated, i.e. it will idle faster when hot, 
slower in gear (auto) etc. If everything is operating normally and 
the temperatures are not too extreme, the car actually operates 
pretty well without it. (Hi Bill).

Dave S

-- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Does anyone have the schematic for the idle speed ECU?
> 
> Do they fail in any particular modes?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave
> 6530




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:49:42 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Different Idle Speed ECUs?

No.
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 6:09 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Different Idle Speed ECUs?


I have read in some posts that there are 1200 rpm, 900 rpm and 750rpm ECUs
in
the DeLorean.  Is this true?

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:51:18 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Idle Speed ECU

Bosch doesn't even have it. They won't release it. They know we would be
fixing them. All you have to do is reverse engineer it. That's what I do.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com

-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 5:55 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Idle Speed ECU


Does anyone have the schematic for the idle speed ECU?

Do they fail in any particular modes?

Thanks

Dave
6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/







________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:18:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sending unit blues

Thats becuase i changed the oil and filter yesterday,
as i was planning to change the sender unit too.  I
put the old unit back though

jordan 11613
--- mike.griese_at_dml_worldnet.att.net wrote:
> Why not just change the oil while you are at it?
> It doesn't hurt at all to change it too often.
> 
> --
> Mike
> 
> > Hello all:
> > 
> >    Was under the car today because of another
> problem,
> >  Took a look at the unit.  Indeed there is an
> adapter
> > and a copper seal.  They look to be in good
> condition,
> > i dont forsee removing them to be a problem.  
> >    Today I have ordered the correct size adapter
> and
> > the cooper seal.  If somebody knows how much oil I
> > stand to loose by removing and replacing this
> without
> > draining the oil let me know.  
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/