From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1600
Date: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 8:49 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. new here, Hi.....
From: "Dayle" <dayle_at_dml_motorsportwarehouse.com>

2. An Epiphany
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

3. RE: more issues with ignition
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. RE: Out.
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

5. Re: An Epiphany
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

6. Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>

7. Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

9. New Engine
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: more issues with ignition
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

11. Re: Engine Compartment Light
From: "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay_at_dml_comcast.net>

12. Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. windows are screwed up... again...
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

15. Re: more issues with ignition
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Back to Basics?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

17. RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

18. RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

19. RE: windows are screwed up... again...
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com

20. RE: more issues with ignition
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

21. Re: New Engine
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>

23. No ignition
From: "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_delorean.com>

24. Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>

25. Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 07:27:09 -0000
From: "Dayle" <dayle_at_dml_motorsportwarehouse.com>
Subject: new here, Hi.....

bought one DMC, within a month I ended up with 3 DMCs all needing some
restoration. I also own a few Subaru SVXs so it was only
matter of time before I got a DMC.
I can see Im going to have my work cut out for me on these
cars. Im sure Ill be asking some questions often too.
Im a mechanic by trade, and run a small performance car
shop here in Tucson.
Sure youll be hearing from me in time, Ill be visiting often

thanks....Dayle




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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 12:35:19 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: An Epiphany

As usual, a fellow DML'er handed me an epiphany, well sort 
of...something I had been considering but didn't want to admit.

Consider: 

An engine with new head gaskets that had the timing chains and 
sprockets removed, now assembled cranks exceedingly hard. New 
starter, new, larger capacity battery.

Timing light indicates 13 BTDC. That's only electrical timing though. 
I am absolutely certain that the pistons have not struck and bent any 
valves (engine was handcranked first) but could I still be off on my 
valve timing?

If the valves weren't synchronized properly, then the engine is 
fighting itself right? It has also occurred to me that I don't here 
any of the "sighing" that the air makes when expelled or inhaled. I 
don't know about the PRV but I'm used to this in other engines.

Help me with valve timing terminology:

What does "on the rock" and what does "overlap position" mean when 
referring to the valve positions? Open, closed or what?

I have everything else. Fuel, air, good, hot spark. Starting fluid 
changes nothing. New fuel pump, CPR, injectors, fuel dizzy, filter. 
All tested sat.

What else could it be besides timing, given the symptoms?

Thanks,

Rich
#5335(The Zombie DeLorean)




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:09:37 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: more issues with ignition

Henry, The ignition coil may have gone out. That along with the pick up coil
have the same characteristics when the quit. Make sure the inertia switch
didn't trip on it's own and the wires on the bottom of it didn't over heat
and lose connection.
I check the coil for fire by lifting the wire out of the middle and have
some one try to crank the car and see the fire jump. You can also do it from
the plug. Even on the new pick up coil you put in, check the resistance Hot
and cold. Did you test the old pick up coil to make sure it was bad.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Henry [mailto:henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:59 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] more issues with ignition



Well, my joy only lasted one day.  Friday, after replacing the
distributor/pick up coil, the car ran very well for a nice hour+ long drive.
Saturday, I'm driving to a friends house, and nothing seemed out of the
ordinary until I accidentally stalled the engine on a slight hill.  I'm not
sure if I actually stalled it, or it lost power and stalled on it's own.
After that it would not start AT ALL.  It cranks, the fuel pump is working,
everything seems totally normal - it just won't start.  



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 08:17:10 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Out.

Richard, On my site is a picture of where to set the 02 screw to try to get
it back to the original setting.
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/air-flow-adj-2.jpg
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: cruznmd [mailto:racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 1:39 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Out.


That's right. I'm "out".

Out of money, out of ideas and tricks, out of patience.

I have replaced the starter, and all of the fuel components. I have
spark on all 6 plugs, air and fuel. Too much or too little I don't
know because I have no idea where to set the CO screw and it was
likely tampered with by the idiot of a mechanic I let work on it in
December.



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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:50:03 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: An Epiphany

Hi Rich

Okay, I've done the chains, and taken photos, but I'll explain in words 
because I'm not at my flat (going home tonight where my camera lead is!).

You get the crankshaft rotated to the keyway points to the RH camshaft. 
The timing mark which is on the middle sprocket on the crank points 
roughly skywards. Put the chain on so the single timing mark aligns with 
the timing mark on the middle crankshaft sprocket. Then by slotting the 
camshaft sprocket into the chain so the timing mark on that lies between 
the double marks on the chain, you can rest the camshaft sprocket on the 
end of the cam and rotate the crank till the camshaft sprocket slots 
into its locking slot. This last bit is how I do it because no matter 
how hard to try, you never get the blasted pin lining up on the camshaft 
sprocket! Now put in the chain guides and you can forget about the RH 
chain.

Now rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark (NOT the keyway) points to 
the lower oil pump mountig bolt - roughly half-past-four. This does not 
have to be accurate. Now drop the chain over the middle sprocket so the 
single timing mark on the chain aligns with the mark on the sprocket. 
Now drop the camshaft sprocket into the chain so the two marks on the 
chain sit either side of the mark on the sprocket. Again by resting the 
sprocket on the end of the camshaft, you can rotate the assembly around 
by turning the crankshaft, till the locking pin drops into the slot on 
the camshaft. When you see the pictures, you'll see that by this point, 
ont he engine I'm working on today, the timing mark on the crank end has 
already left the crankshaft sprocket. Now put the chain guides back in.

When I first did the job, I spent ages getting the camshaft slot to line 
up properly so I could put both chains on with the marks as they appear 
in the manual. The problem is it's a pain in the arse to turn either the 
crank or the camshaft to the left - you always end up unscrewing the 
nut/bolt - and you can't just spin it round 350 degrees because you run 
the risk of hitting a valve on a piston.

THEN, reassemble the oil pump chain and sprocket, timing cover, pulley 
and crankshaft nut. Now, an explanation: There are two timing marks on 
the pulley. We only use one of them. The camshaft rotates once for every 
two rotations of the crank. You need to get it so cyl #1 is in firing 
position. This means that the valves are both closed on cyl #1. For the 
valves to be closed, the rocker arms that control them will be clear by 
0.1mm (inlet) and 0.25mm (exhaust). If you wiggle them by hand, they 
will rattle slightly. The inlet valves are in the middle of the "V" and 
the exhuast valves are on the outside. Explanation over.

Now take spark plug #1 out. Drop a long screwdriver down the hole and 
gently turn the crank so you can work out which timing mark hits 0 on 
the timing plate when piston #1 is at the top of its stroke. When you 
have worked this out, and the mark is on "0" - watch the rocker arms on 
cyl #1 and turn the crank first to the left by a few degrees and then to 
the right by a few degrees. If when turning to the left, you see exhaust 
rocker arm start to move, and then to the right of TDC, you see the 
inlet rocker move - this is when the arms are "on the rock" and this 
means the piston has just finished exhausting, and started induction. 
This is 360 degrees out from TDC on firing stroke. Spin the crank by 360 
degrees, and you should now feel play the rocker arms on cyl #1. You can 
NOW drop the distributor in so the rotor arm points to the mark on the 
body of the distributor. Make sure you get it so you can adjust the 
dizzy either way - you won't get it spot on, but you'll get it on the 
right "tooth" on the drive gear. Lock it down as near as you can judge 
it, and put the cap on.

While at TDC on firing stroke, the following valve clearances can be 
adjusted:

Inlet         1    2    4
Exhaust    1    3    6

Now rotate the crank by 360 degrees, and adjust

Inlet        3    5    6
Exhaust   2    4    5

When adjusting the valve clearances, you have to get snug fit with the 
feeler guage - not too tight and not too lose - you will get a feel for 
it after a while. Too tight, and when you're adjusting it you will start 
to open the valves. Too loose and the valves will not open fully and for 
less time, and will rattle.

Now reassemble everything else. Adjust the fuelling so the injectors 
"crack" when the metering flap is down by a millimetre or so. Jump the 
coil with 12v. Get a friend to turn the key and you reach down to the 
vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor and while it's cranking, 
start moving the dizzy around. You should hear a point where the engine 
is trying to fire. It may not. If not, try turning the misture 
adjustment screw another 1/2 turn to the right. The conditions required 
in getting this sucker started for the first time may be vastly 
different from what it'll merrily run at once it's fired up for 30 
seconds or so - eg over-rich and over-advanced.

Okay, I can hear my girlfriend buzzing the timing cover bolts on with 
the air-wrench from here, so I'd better go and check she's got the right 
sized bolts in each hole..... will post the photos later

Martin

PS no idea what "cylinder overlap position" is :-)

cruznmd wrote:

>As usual, a fellow DML'er handed me an epiphany, well sort 
>of...something I had been considering but didn't want to admit.
>
>Consider: 
>
>An engine with new head gaskets that had the timing chains and 
>sprockets removed, now assembled cranks exceedingly hard. New 
>starter, new, larger capacity battery.
>
>Timing light indicates 13 BTDC. That's only electrical timing though. 
>I am absolutely certain that the pistons have not struck and bent any 
>valves (engine was handcranked first) but could I still be off on my 
>valve timing?
>
>If the valves weren't synchronized properly, then the engine is 
>fighting itself right? It has also occurred to me that I don't here 
>any of the "sighing" that the air makes when expelled or inhaled. I 
>don't know about the PRV but I'm used to this in other engines.
>
>Help me with valve timing terminology:
>
>What does "on the rock" and what does "overlap position" mean when 
>referring to the valve positions? Open, closed or what?
>
>I have everything else. Fuel, air, good, hot spark. Starting fluid 
>changes nothing. New fuel pump, CPR, injectors, fuel dizzy, filter. 
>All tested sat.
>
>What else could it be besides timing, given the symptoms?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich
>#5335(The Zombie DeLorean)
>
>
>  
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 11:33:18 -0400
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
Subject: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.

Hello, Im trying  to track down the young man from Wisconsin  purchased my
DeLorean about 4 or 5 months ago.  We met each other thru this mailing list.
Admin's I ask that you please allow this to post, as I NEED to contact this
young man.

My old computer crashed completely, as in 100% and it will be many many
hundreds of dollars to recover my harddrive, therefore I dont have your
contact information anymore. Ive been hoping you would email me so that I
can send you out the spare blank DMC keys I still have.

With that said, the Commonwealth of Kentucky has contacted me and informed
me that Im required to Vehicle Exhaust Test the DeLorean within 7 days or
they are going to revoke my license.

I called to tell them this was a mistake and that I dont own the car anymore
and much to my suprise they told me that I DO still own the car....you have
NOT transferred the title yet.   I absolutely need you to transfer the title
ASAP because as of this moment *I* am still the owner of that car. Call me
at 502-797-1845.  I need the title transferred immediately.

Jennifer Tipton
Louisville Kentucky





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 15:34:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)

Here are some of the reasons tie rod ends go bad:
Wrong tie rod end
Over greasing or under greasing
Out of balance wheel
Bent rim
Removal with the wrong tool (a pickle fork will usually ruin the seal).
Maybe it sat on the shelf too long and the rubber was rotten?

If it is only the rubber seal you might be able to get a generic
replacement at the local auto store. Take off the old one and bring it
to the store and try to match up a replacement. Before reassembling
wipe off the rod end as much as you can and after reassembling
relubricate with grease. Use new cotter pins and tighten the nut to
the correct torque spec. If you don't turn the rod end you should not
have to have the car aligned again.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757





--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple hundred
miles.
> Alignment checks ok, car does not pull either way, tire wear is not
evident.
> The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open
and dirt
> can get in, this can not be right.  



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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 16:04:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)

If the failure involved is the translucent plastic boots on the OEM 
ends, get rid of them. They were not very good when new, and even 
worse now that they are 20+ years old. There are some generic rubber 
boots available either thru DMC Houston or with some careful shopping 
at your local parts store, although it's often difficult to get the 
boots without the whole tie-rod end. There should also be some 
generic urethane (red) ones that fit ("Energy Suspension" brand).

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
>> Removal with the wrong tool (a pickle fork will usually ruin the 
seal).
> Maybe it sat on the shelf too long and the rubber was rotten?
> 
> If it is only the rubber seal you might be able to get a generic
> replacement at the local auto store. Take off the old one and bring 
it
> to the store and try to match up a replacement. > David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> > Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple 
hundred
> miles.

> > The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open
> and dirt
> > can get in, this can not be right.




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 17:47:57 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: New Engine

I am having a new DMC Houston crate engine (with the performance 
mods, of course) installed in my D.  I'm trying to figure out what I 
should do with my old engine.  I'm not sure exactly how many miles it 
has on it, but I estimate somewhere between 70k and 80k.

I was going to have this engine swap done next year, but I had it 
accelerated because of a leaky crankcase.  Other than that, the 
engine idles smooth and runs well.  It's been a daily driver for me 
for 3.5 years.  I've taken good care of it and some of the parts 
(fuel injector hoses, ignition parts, etc.) are relatively new.

If there is anyone on the list who would like to have/buy this 
engine, contact me off-list for further details at aaron_t_graham(at)
yahoo.com.

Also, if there is anyone who has had experience with these new modded 
engines and has any tips/pointers/issues please let me know.  I'd 
like my first experiences with this new engine to be as trouble-free 
as possible.

Thanks.
Aaron
#1506





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 14:07:11 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: more issues with ignition


I still can't get the car started.  Here's the info I have so far.. please help if you can:

First, the ignition coil is "questionable".  Out of the car/cold, measuring the resistance between terminal 1 (-) and terminal 4 (the secondary winding) I get 9.5 k ohms. I get the same 9.5 k ohms resistance between terminal 4 and terminal 15 (+ primary coil winding).  John Harvey measured a known good coil and got the exact same measurements.  The "Delorean Technical Information Manual" from Rob Grady says that the primary winding should be 0.95-1.4 OHMS, and the secondary should be 5.5k-8k ohms.  I don't know which is correct or if my coil is good or bad.

Second, according to the DTIM, I should have 6-8 volts on terminal #15 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position.  I'm getting 4.6V.

Third,  according to the DTIM, I should have 0.5-2 volts on terminal #1 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position.  I'm getting 2.5V.

According to John Harvey, I should be getting 10-11 volts on the Blue/Yellow wire at the compensating resistor during cranking. I'm getting about 9.5 volts.  On the other side, I'm getting about 7-8 volts.

The battery has about 12.6 volts.

When I pull the spark plug wire on the drivers side (cylinder #6) and crank the engine, I get a small yellow/orange spark.

I've tried jump starting the car with another during these tests, and the Delorean still won't start. I get more than 13 volts when the cars are jumped.  It cranks very strong when jumped and cranks pretty well when not jumped.

I've checked the inertia switch and connector, and it looks fine.

Interestingly, I'm NOT getting the frequency valve buzzing when the car is in the "run" mode but not started.  I AM getting a moderate hum/buzz from the idle speed motor  which I hadn't noticed before.

And as you all know, I've just replaced the pick-up coil and distributor cap.

Any suggestions would be most helpful.  Thanks in advance.

-Hank






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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:30:47 -0000
From: "deloreanchuck" <chuckkay_at_dml_comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Compartment Light

     THANK YOU FOR THE INFO ON THE SWITCH.  I REPLACES THE ENGINE 
SWITCH WITH ONE LIKE JOHN HAS ON SPEC-T.  I HAD TO MAKE MY OWN PIG 
TAILS. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS KIND OF SWITCH IS YOU CAN PUSH IT 
OFF BY HAND AND STICK A PIECE OF PAPER/TWIG UNDER THE PLUNGER TO KEEP 
IT OFF WHILE YOU HAVE THE ENGINE LID OPEN.
     WHAT I NEEDED WAS A GLOVE BOX SWITCH.  I FIRST WENT TO A CHEVY 
DEALER, BUT HE DID NOT HAVE ONE.  NEXT TO A BUICK DEALER, AGAIN HE 
DID NOT HAVE ONE BUT HE WENT ONLINE AND FOUND A CADILAC DEALER WHO 
DID HAVE ONE.  SO ON THE THE CADY DEALER.  HE HAD IT. IT HAD BEEN ON 
THE SHELF SO LONG THE PACKAGE (2 PIECES OF PAPER GLUED TOGETHER WITH 
THE PART IN BETWEEN) HAS DRIED OUT AND SEPERATED.  THE PART WAS 
ALMOST IDENTIAL TO THE STOCK PART.  THE COST WAS $4.24.  I POSTED A 
PICTURE ON THE PHOTO SECTION OF DML UNDER G/E SWITCH. STOCK ON LEFT 
GM ON THE RIGHT.

                            CHUCK 10610
 dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> 
> GM # 90033510
> 
> I bet these switches are used in many other GM cars, too.
> Glove Box, trunk.....
> 
> Elvis 6548



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:18:31 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)

You put on NOS tie rod ends. The rubber is brittle and breaks. I had 
several sets of the NOS tie rod ends and the rubber grease seal on 
all of them broke the minute some flex was required. I remember 
seeing somewhere someone offered a replacement seal but I decided to 
go for Grady's aftermarket replacements. Looks conventional and the 
seal is nice and tight and, the price was right.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <jlharry_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> Why do I need to replace my tie rod ends after only a couple 
hundred miles.
> Alignment checks ok, car does not pull either way, tire wear is 
not evident.
> The tie rod ends have come apart again. The seals are broken open 
and dirt
> can get in, this can not be right.  The ones on my 72 ford pick up 
have been
> on it for 15 years and are not broken open.  Is there something 
ease that
> causes the tire rod ends to break open other than the  ends 
themselves.
> Thanks for any help.
> Jerry
> Vin 4890




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:34:10 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.

Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer own 
the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? By 
transfering the title in another state word may never make it back 
to Kentucky (no fun intended). They must have a way to handle that. 
There is really nothing you can do to force someone to transfer the 
title.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_i...> 
wrote:
> Hello, Im trying  to track down the young man from Wisconsin  
purchased my
> DeLorean about 4 or 5 months ago.  We met each other thru this 
mailing list.
> Admin's I ask that you please allow this to post, as I NEED to 
contact this
> young man.
> 
> With that said, the Commonwealth of Kentucky has contacted me and 
informed
> me that Im required to Vehicle Exhaust Test the DeLorean within 7 
days or
> they are going to revoke my license.
> 



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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 01:39:21 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: windows are screwed up... again...

Last year my passenger would not close all the way, the window was 
crooked in the slot so when it rolled up the there was a 1/4 inch 
open space on the front part of the window. I had took the door apart 
and found that the plastic guide clips had come off from the "L" 
shaped metal guide rail inside. I put the clips back around the guide 
rail and everything was fine until today. Rolled window down, then up 
and it was off the track again...

Just a few weeks ago my drivers window started making a loud clicking 
sound when it reached what seemed to be the fully closed position. On 
closer inspection today I see that it is not rolling up completely 
with a space at the front, although a much smaller space than the 
passenger side.

Are these symptoms of the worm rail coming out from the worm guide 
tube? Would buying the improved regualtor units fix this or does it 
seem like I have a different problem?

thanks for any info.
Adam 16683




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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:02:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: more issues with ignition

4.5 volts into coil isn't going to cut it. 6+ is probably minimum, and
I'd shoot for 8. Voltage problem precedes coil. Blue/Yellow wire to
ballast resistors is primary ignition feed, so your problem goes back
even further. Check white wire (or main brown wire) from ignition
relay (closest to seats) to see if you can get 12 volts there.

Just run a wire from jump start post to positive side of coil and car
may well start (assuming you've got 12 volts there). Won't hurt short
term, but will eventually cook ignition module if you leave it. 

You want a blue or white spark. If your plugs are high resistance,
probably aren't firing.

Forgot all about that inertia switch (PO permanently grounded my pump
somewhere).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Henry" <henry_at_dml_i...> wrote:
> 
> I still can't get the car started.  Here's the info I have so far..
please help if you can:
> 
> First, the ignition coil is "questionable".  Out of the car/cold,
measuring the resistance between terminal 1 (-) and terminal 4 (the
secondary winding) I get 9.5 k ohms. I get the same 9.5 k ohms
resistance between terminal 4 and terminal 15 (+ primary coil
winding).  John Harvey measured a known good coil and got the exact
same measurements.  The "Delorean Technical Information Manual" from
Rob Grady says that the primary winding should be 0.95-1.4 OHMS, and
the secondary should be 5.5k-8k ohms.  I don't know which is correct
or if my coil is good or bad.
> 
> Second, according to the DTIM, I should have 6-8 volts on terminal
#15 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position. 
I'm getting 4.6V.
> 
> Third,  according to the DTIM, I should have 0.5-2 volts on terminal
#1 of the coil when the ignition switch is on the "run" position.  I'm
getting 2.5V.
> 
> According to John Harvey, I should be getting 10-11 volts on the
Blue/Yellow wire at the compensating resistor during cranking. I'm
getting about 9.5 volts.  On the other side, I'm getting about 7-8 volts.
> 
> The battery has about 12.6 volts.
> 
> When I pull the spark plug wire on the drivers side (cylinder #6)
and crank the engine, I get a small yellow/orange spark.
> 
> I've tried jump starting the car with another during these tests,
and the Delorean still won't start. I get more than 13 volts when the
cars are jumped.  It cranks very strong when jumped and cranks pretty
well when not jumped.
> 
> I've checked the inertia switch and connector, and it looks fine.
> 
> Interestingly, I'm NOT getting the frequency valve buzzing when the
car is in the "run" mode but not started.  I AM getting a moderate
hum/buzz from the idle speed motor  which I hadn't noticed before.
> 
> And as you all know, I've just replaced the pick-up coil and
distributor cap.
> 
> Any suggestions would be most helpful.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> -Hank




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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:21:07 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Back to Basics?

You've all seen my flailings regarding attempts to start my car.
Here's an interesting twist:

After reading some more and making some more phone calls I went back
to the distributor. Despite the fact that I aligned the rotor
correctly, and #1 piston was at TDC, -and- the timing light strobed at
13 degrees BTDC when checked, I was slapped in the face with the
realization that perhaps I set the dizzy on the wrong stroke.

So I double checked that I had indeed set the dizzy for #1 TDC. Rotor
lined up, a screw driver showed that #1 was TDC and the pulley mark
lined up with "0" on the scale (so I didn't set to #6 piston by
mistake). I pulled the dizzy, cranked 360 degrees and dropped it back in.

NOW the engine back-fires a lot where before there was nothing,
although it didn't start. I only fiddled with it for a couple of
minutes. The rain was pouring down, it was dark and I didn't have a
buddy to crank it while I adjusted the distributor. Not to mention I'm
not sure the O2 screw is set right just yet.

Does back-fire necessarily indicate an over-advanced timing condition?
I'm trying to figure out which direction to turn the dizzy on my next
attempt.

Thanks,

Rich




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 21:41:58 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)

Dave, If anyone is intrested, I have a breakdown and replacement boot kit on
the web site on how to clean up and repair and replace.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/chassis-frame.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:04 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Re: Tie rod ends (sp)


If the failure involved is the translucent plastic boots on the OEM
ends, get rid of them. They were not very good when new, and even
worse now that they are 20+ years old. There are some generic rubber
boots available either thru DMC Houston or with some careful shopping
at your local parts store, 



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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 23:47:51 -0400
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: Re: Tie rod ends (sp)

Putting on 20 year old tie rod ends is foolish. They are the same as the Triumph Spitfire and can be had at Moss Motors. Part # 668-047 65J158Z.
Jim 6147

"Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com> wrote:

>You put on NOS tie rod ends. The rubber is brittle and breaks. I had 
>several sets of the NOS tie rod ends and the rubber grease seal on 
>all of them broke the minute some flex was required. I remember 
>seeing somewhere someone offered a replacement seal but I decided to 
>go for Grady's aftermarket replacements. 



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 23:55:08 -0400
From: jwit6_at_dml_cs.com
Subject: RE: windows are screwed up... again...

I've noticed that the common failure with my regulators was that when the window was run down fully, there was no stop to limit the windows downward travel. It then flexes the regulator and loads up the the front and rear plastic clips, forcing one or both off the the track. I cured this problem for both my windows by installing a stop to limit the lower travel of the window opposite the point where the window attaches to the regulator assembly. A 4 inch drywall screw with rubber vac line over the threads run through the stainless steel structure opposite this point works well.
Jim 6147

"Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com> wrote:

>Last year my passenger would not close all the way, the window was 
>crooked in the slot so when it rolled up the there was a 1/4 inch 
>open space on the front part of the window. I had took the door apart 
>and found that the plastic guide clips had come off from the "L" 
>shaped metal guide rail inside. I put the clips back around the guide 
>rail and everything was fine until today. Rolled window down, then up 
>and it was off the track again...
>



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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:53:07 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: more issues with ignition

Bill, I think he has the voltage, Normally about 10.25 is the cranking
voltage to the coil under normal conditions. With the engine so tight, I
think what's happening is the voltage/current is being drawn down so low it
doesn't want to start. Remember the old days when we used to parallel two
batteries to get a new rebuilt engine to crank over.
John Hervey


-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net]
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 7:02 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] more issues with ignition


4.5 volts into coil isn't going to cut it. 6+ is probably minimum, and
I'd shoot for 8. Voltage problem precedes coil. Blue/Yellow wire to
ballast resistors is primary ignition feed, so your problem goes back
even further. Check white wire (or main brown wire) from ignition
relay (closest to seats) to see if you can get 12 volts there.

Just run a wire from jump start post to positive side of coil and car
may well start (assuming you've got 12 volts there). Won't hurt short
term, but will eventually cook ignition module if you leave it.







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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 23:40:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: New Engine

Hey that would be a great engine for a documented restoration.  Pictures and all,  Im sure upon completion there would be someone on the list who would buy one if their engine were beyond repair.
 
jordan 11613

aaron_t_graham <aaron_t_graham_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
I am having a new DMC Houston crate engine (with the performance 
mods, of course) installed in my D. I'm trying to figure out what I 
should do with my old engine. I'm not sure exactly how many miles it 
has on it, but I estimate somewhere between 70k and 80k.

I was going to have this engine swap done next year, but I had it 
accelerated because of a leaky crankcase. Other than that, the 
engine idles smooth and runs well. It's been a daily driver for me 
for 3.5 years. I've taken good care of it and some of the parts 
(fuel injector hoses, ignition parts, etc.) are relatively new.

If there is anyone on the list who would like to have/buy this 
engine, contact me off-list for further details at aaron_t_graham(at)
yahoo.com.

Also, if there is anyone who has had experience with these new modded 
engines and has any tips/pointers/issues please let me know. I'd 
like my first experiences with this new engine to be as trouble-free 
as possible.

Thanks.
Aaron
#1506




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 05:05:21 -0400
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
Subject: Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.

Actually yes there is. According to the small print on the bottom of the VTR
and an attorney  in the atty generals office I spoke with yesterday I have
the LEGAL right to get a duplicate title and to reposses the car. WITHOUT
giving back payment.  I'd say the fact that I can legally reposses the car
is pretty big incentive to get it transferred.

Conversly, did you know that legally at this moment if he wrecked that car
and killed 30 people in a farmers market like that guy in California...*I*
can be held responsible?

30 days, thats what you have to transfer. After that its considered "fraud".

And yes, according to Frankfort ( our Capitol) they would receive word if
the title had been transferred.

I still havent heard from him.

Jennifer

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in
KENTUCKY.


> Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer own
> the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? By
> transfering the title in another state word may never make it back
> to Kentucky (no fun intended). They must have a way to handle that.
> There is really nothing you can do to force someone to transfer the
> title.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>
>



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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 09:32:31 -0000
From: "vin4258" <vin4258_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: No ignition

Ever since the car overheated on June 15, I noticed a grinding noise 
when starting it.  Not all the time, but was there.  The car started 
right after the short noise and ran fine.  I have only started the 
car maybe 10 times since then and now it won't start at all.  I would 
say that the grinding noise was not a big enough problem to cause 
this, but I don't know.  When I turn the key, nothing happens.  The 
battery is charged and everything works, but the starter won't do 
anything.  My dad came over and we first jumped the battery cable at 
the starter to the solonoid and it started fine.  We assume that the 
starter is OK, and went to the relays.  I swapped the ignition relay 
for the similar high beam relay and the car started, and the high 
beams worked.  We thought the problem was fixed and he left.  Four 
hours later I went into the garage to try it again and it had the 
problem again, so maybe it's not the relay. I can hear a slight 
clicking from the relay compartment when I try to start it, but no 
clicking from the starter. NOthing but the relay noise. I cleaned the 
resistor behind the engine and can't think of anything else needs to 
be cleaned.  The car has been taken care of and has 6500 miles.  If 
the problem is the key switch, how do I hot-wire the car to check?  
If this is a common problem, what other causes are there.  FYI the 
car runs fine and I have never had a problem with it.  I pull started 
it when it wouldn't start the first time, but don't want to do that 
again or get under the car to start it (or have some rewire 
contraption in the relay compartment.)




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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 05:37:40 -0400
From: "Jennifer Tipton" <Jtipton_at_dml_iglou.com>
Subject: Re: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.

There are also "Collection" companies that I can sell the title to..they buy
the title at a fraction of the worth of the car say...$5.000 and then go and
retrieve "their" car.

I dont plan on doing this, but Im letting you know it IS indeed an option
and is regularly done.

Jenn

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 9:34 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in
KENTUCKY.


> Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer own
> the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? By
> transfering the title in another state word may never make it back
> to Kentucky (no fun intended). They must have a way to handle that.
> There is really nothing you can do to force someone to transfer the
> title.
>
> Harold McElraft - 3354
>



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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:12:13 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: ATTN!! to the WISCONSIN man who purchased my DeLorean in KENTUCKY.

I would think a copy of the bill of sale would help also. I hope they 
have one.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> 
wrote:
> Most states have a form you can fill out that says you no longer 
own 
> the car - and you don't; you have your money don't you? 



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