From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1604
Date: Thursday, July 31, 2003 9:49 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

2. Re: Is there a step-by-step on replacing clutch line with a new stainless one?
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: more issues with my ignition - update
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

4. Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

5. Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>

6. Re: Dead DeLo
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Delorean Sighting
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

11. Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

12. Re: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

13. Re: Delorean Sighting
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Re: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>

15. Auxillary Air Pipe(s)
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

16. Transmission conversion AT/MT
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

17. Idle speed regulator removal
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

18. First post as an owner :)
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>

19. Re: Auxillary Air Pipe(s)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

20. Re: Idle speed regulator removal
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

21. Re: First post as an owner :)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

22. Radiatior.
From: "David Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_msn.com>

23. Re: Radiatior.
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

24. A small favor...
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

25. Shock Lengths
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:07:30 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Brass Idle Speed Screws

Mention this to list with trepidation because it usually ignites flame
war, but IMHO is important:

At same time JZD was messing around with idle speed motors, Volvo just
used brass screws already built into PRV to set idle. Low tech, yes,
but less subject to problems. I think every owner should know how to
use in case automatic idle system fails or needs diagnosis, if nothing
else. Simply advising "just snug down and never worry about them
again" deprives owners of a valuable feature ALREADY IN PLACE (no mods
necessary).

FWIW: is the ONLY idle system on #5939, and you saw first hand how
well it works.

Side note: you've got ignition "advanced" and "retarded" flipped:
advanced is early, retarded is late. Might confuse someone's advice if
they didn't listen carefully to full explanation.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I appreciate the tip. 
> 
> Uh...my brass screws are all shut I believe. When I first got the car,
> I read in the manual that they were supposed to be shut, so I checked
> them. I had hardly put -any- force on them when I hit the stops and 2
> of 3 just snapped right off. I was told not to worry about them since
> they should be shut.
> 
> My idle speed regulator is brand-new. Like everything else....and it
> is humming. I'm definitely keen on trying new things so I'll do it. By
> the way, is there a specific direction it should be installed? I
> wouldn't think so, because when it's open it's open and closed is
> closed. Either way air is going to flow or not depending on the valve
> position but you never know...
> 
> So if it's only supposed to be in there one way let me know.
> 
> After reading that last dude's article where his idle reg was stuck
> shut, I'm all for trying it out. I have been holding down the gas
> pedal 1/4 of the way.
> 
> I even tried yet another trick Bill at DMCH told me. I disabled the
> ignition to see if the spark was so retarded (early) that it was
> impeding the upward stroke of the pistons. Alas, it was not to be. It
> had no effect.
> 
> Thanks guys, keep 'em coming. I'm not quitting yet.
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > You can achieve the same thing by unscrewing the brass screws by
approx 
> > 2 turns each on the rear two and 4 on the front one. This allows
air to 
> > bypass the throttles.
> > 
> > Martin
> > 
> > therealdmcvegas wrote:
> > 
> > >A weak ignition coil will most definatly keep the motor from
> turning over. But 
> > >there is another thing that will keep the motor from firing up:
> Lack of air.
> > >
> > >Unlike a carbed motor, the idle is not controled by the fuel
> delivery system, but 
> > >by another computer. If nothing else, try bypassing the Idle Speed
> Motor, and 
> > >run a straight tube between the two connections. 
> > >




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 05:24:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a step-by-step on replacing clutch line with a new stainless one?

Hello,

    Sorry to say, I have the three speed, dont expect
one to be added to my howto collection unless someone
else writes it.

sorry

Jordan 11613


--- steve <steve_at_dml_redsquall.net> wrote:
> Is there a step-by-step on replacing clutch line
> with a new stainless 
> one?
>



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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 07:38:16 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: more issues with my ignition - update

Hank, If everything seems ok and it still won't start. Remember, When the
air flow plate goes down the control plunger in the fuel distributor goes up
which feeds the injectors.
Just as an FYI:If there are any vacuum leaks, that will make a difference on
how far the plate goes down as the plunger goes up. If the air metering
plate is not in perfect alignment with the ventura it will make a
difference. When your cranking, the plate will go down and the control
plunger may need 1/8 th turn to enrich because it isn't rising high enough.
By disconnecting the ISM would be like chocking the air so the plunger will
go higher: hence the car started.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: Henry [mailto:henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:20 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] more issues with my ignition - update



For those keeping track, here's the latest update.  The car finally did
start today, but I'm still not sure exactly what the problem is - read on.

I've replaced the stock coil with the MSD 8202 unit ($40 from a local shop).
I got differing opinions on using the stock versus a replacement
compensating resistor, so I just installed the new coil and used the stock
resistor.  I now have a good blue spark off the coil.



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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:11:33 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
<SNIP> 
> My idle speed regulator is brand-new. Like everything else....and it
> is humming. I'm definitely keen on trying new things so I'll do it. 
By
> the way, is there a specific direction it should be installed? I
> wouldn't think so, because when it's open it's open and closed is
> closed. Either way air is going to flow or not depending on the 
valve
> position but you never know...
<SNIP>

Yes, the ISM does indeed need to be installed in a specific 
direction. There should be an arrow on the side dictating the air 
flow direction. Since there is a designation, there's got to be a 
reason for it. Most likly, it's probably to prevent the valve from 
working too hard against the force of the air flow passing thru it.

The ISM buzzing isn't always a sure sign that it is working properly. 
I had it go out on me suddenly in traffic one night, and had to keep 
the motor revving to keep it from dying. After a new motor, and a bit 
of electrical troubleshooting, I discovered that I had a damaged 
wire. Although before you even get that far into troubleshooting, 
you'll first need to isolate the Idle Speed Circuit as the culprit. 
And to do that, you'll need to bypass the unit manually.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 09:13:27 -0700
From: Phil Priestley <phil_at_dml_alessandros120.com>
Subject: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle

When I first got my D I had the same kind of problems. After spending 
several weekends trying to get it running I gave up and had it towed to 
a shop. The problem turned out to be the air flow meter had been bent 
by a backfire. A good used metering  flap solved the problem.



Phil Priestley
Alessandros 120
(503)370-9951




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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 16:21:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Dead DeLo

I guess this is just further proof that you should try to keep the
electrical system as close to origional as possible. If you are aware
of wiring modifacations they should either be documented and checked
for quality or removed and returned to origional. In the area of
safety you should not be making modifacations. The inertia switch
should be wired correctly and tested for function. Don't forget that
there are 2 circuits going through the inertia switch. The other is
supposed to unlock the doors if the inertia switch is activated. This
can only happen if the door lock circuit still functions. For that you
need a Lockzilla or an upgraded lock module.
The electrical system on the Delorean does have a few weak points but
in addition to that you have any previous work that may have been done
on it (maybe poorly) and you also have 20 years of time. All of the
connections need to be inspected with particular attention paid to all
of the grounding connections. When inspecting plugs it is important
that the connectors are "springy", not overheated, and stay in
position when the plugs are reassembled. It is all too common
especially in the fuseblock for the wires and connectors to move back
and not grip the devices properly. The tang that is supposed to
prevent this must be properly bent. If the connector has been
overheated it MUST be replaced for it will never work right. 
Bad grounds are always a source of frustration. They can cause unusual
symptoms that are hard to troubleshoot and make no sense. The
backfeeds that they can cause are really weird. The best medicine is
to just clean them all and hope the troubles go away. For preventitive
purposes it is better to just keep them clean and tight then to get
stuck on the road. Go over all the "big" connections by the battery
and the motor and the main one in the front by the front left tire on
the radiater support.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757   


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Mmm, this crow tastes good...
> 
> People are having so much fun with dead DeLo's on the side of the road
> I decided tonight to see what all the excitement was about (actually
> #5939 decided for me).
> 
> Fortunately happened within a mile of so of house, where tools and
> instruments were.
> 





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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 16:26:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle

Try a compression test on a cylinder. If the valve timing is off you
won't get compression. I still think you have a timing issue, either a
camshaft isn't correct or the the distributer or firing order is
wrong. Go over all your work again, better yet get another pair of
eyes to help. It is very common for a person to continually overlook
their own mistake so someone else may find the problem easier or point
out something that you keep missing. If the timing is right try to
isolate systems. Try a squirt of ether. If that gets it to run then
you know that you have a fuel system problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I appreciate the tip. 
> 
> Uh...my brass screws are all shut I believe. When I first got the car,
> I read in the manual that they were supposed to be shut, so I checked
> them. I had hardly put -any- force on them when I hit the stops and 2
> of 3 just snapped right off. I was told not to worry about them since
> they should be shut.
> 
> My idle speed regulator is brand-new. Like everything else....and it





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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 17:08:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws

When you disable the idle speed motor you give up a lot. The motor
will no longer run faster when cold and if you turn on the A/C or run
a lot of accessories like headlights and rear defogger the ISM cannot
keep the idle speed stable. Under high loads at idle the ISM will keep
the idle at 775 rpm. The fixed metering screws cannot adjust to
varying loads. In addition in some states you are not supposed to
tamper with anything that can affect the emissions. Some states do
check these things. For your own sake and that of a future owner it is
usually best to keep the car as origional as you can. It is often
harder to make changes than to try to stay origional.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Mention this to list with trepidation because it usually ignites flame
> war, but IMHO is important:
> 
> At same time JZD was messing around with idle speed motors, Volvo just
> used brass screws already built into PRV to set idle. Low tech, yes,
> but less subject to problems. I think every owner should know how to
> use in case automatic idle system fails or needs diagnosis, if 




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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:06:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Delorean Sighting

Just for laughs go to    breakfastclub80.com   It is a bar and the
"feature" a blue Delorean on the website. The bar is in Old Bridge,
New Jersey. Maybe we should end Mark Levy to check it out!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 17:35:55 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle

I have excellent compression. I haven't performed a formal test with 
plasti-gauge but when I crank I get a great "whuff" of air from all 
cylinders out of the spark plug hole.

Like I said, I also pulled the passenger valve cover off and verified 
the valve position vs. the crank/#1 piston position. I do concede I 
should double-check the driver's side.

I also re-stabbed the dizzy, which was easier this time because I 
could see what stroke I was on by looking at the valves. I then put 
the timing light on it and tweaked it out to 13 degrees.

I have tried ether but it didn't do anything at all. (Which is one 
reason I kept fussing w/the timing) BUT, if you don't have air, ether 
still won't help you.

When I do get a few cylinders to fire, they fire smoothly and the 
engine doesn't shake or rattle like it's fighting itself. The back-
fire I had, was because I had re-stabbed the dizzy 180 out. Duh. It's 
correct now for sure.

I'm going to check the air flow (idle reg and such).

I agree that a fresh set of eyes would be beneficial. I'm thinking of 
chloroforming Dave Stragand and bringing him down. I have just enough 
chain to reach the spare bedroom in the basement, the bathroom and 
the car. ;-)

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> 
wrote:
> Try a compression test on a cylinder. If the valve timing is off you
> won't get compression. I still think you have a timing issue, 
either a
> camshaft isn't correct or the the distributer or firing order is
> wrong. Go over all your work again, better yet get another pair of
> eyes to help. It is very common for a person to continually overlook
> their own mistake so someone else may find the problem easier or 
point
> out something that you keep missing. If the timing is right try to
> isolate systems. Try a squirt of ether. If that gets it to run then
> you know that you have a fuel system problem.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > I appreciate the tip. 
> > 
> > Uh...my brass screws are all shut I believe. When I first got the 
car,
> > I read in the manual that they were supposed to be shut, so I 
checked
> > them. I had hardly put -any- force on them when I hit the stops 
and 2
> > of 3 just snapped right off. I was told not to worry about them 
since
> > they should be shut.
> > 
> > My idle speed regulator is brand-new. Like everything else....and 
it




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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 20:45:14 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws

You do have to use the brass screws if you're to balance the banks, 
which is described in a different chapter of the workshop manual. The 
DMC workshop manual shouldn't necessarily be taken as gospel regarding 
this engine.

Martin

content22207 wrote:

>Mention this to list with trepidation because it usually ignites flame
>war, but IMHO is important:
>
>At same time JZD was messing around with idle speed motors, Volvo just
>used brass screws already built into PRV to set idle. Low tech, yes,
>but less subject to problems. I think every owner should know how to
>use in case automatic idle system fails or needs diagnosis, if nothing
>else. Simply advising "just snug down and never worry about them
>again" deprives owners of a valuable feature ALREADY IN PLACE (no mods
>necessary).
>
>FWIW: is the ONLY idle system on #5939, and you saw first hand how
>well it works.
>
>Side note: you've got ignition "advanced" and "retarded" flipped:
>advanced is early, retarded is late. Might confuse someone's advice if
>they didn't listen carefully to full explanation.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>  
>





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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:57:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws

What's there to lose capping off the idle speed motor? You only seal it off with a vacuum cap, and adjust the idle speed screws to where your car idles the way you want. It literally takes less than a minute to undo. I've found that my car runs MUCH stronger, and idles infinitely more smoothly through the screw anyways. You could start my car twice in a row and it would always settle into a different idle through the ISM. That doesn't happen with the via the screws. This suggests that yes, my idle speed motor was fried... but why spend $300 for a new one when it will fail again in the future, and my car seems to be happier as is? 

Bill has gotten around the problem of adjusting to varying loads. He made a switch for his car that adjusts to fast/slow idle for the varying circumstances. I find that a little overkill myself... but it works great. If the original DeLorean design is as good as you keep suggesting, we wouldn't have these sorts of problems with our cars.

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 

--- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
>When you disable the idle speed motor you give up a lot. The motor
>will no longer run faster when cold and if you turn on the A/C or run
>a lot of accessories like headlights and rear defogger the ISM cannot
>keep the idle speed stable. Under high loads at idle the ISM will keep
>the idle at 775 rpm. The fixed metering screws cannot adjust to
>varying loads. In addition in some states you are not supposed to
>tamper with anything that can affect the emissions. Some states do
>check these things. For your own sake and that of a future owner it is
>usually best to keep the car as origional as you can. It is often
>harder to make changes than to try to stay origional.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757

_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of  "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>



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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:15:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Sighting

Been there..  With my DeLorean.  Just a club, nothing
too impressive there.


--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net> wrote:
> Just for laughs go to    breakfastclub80.com   It is
> a bar and the
> "feature" a blue Delorean on the website. The bar is
> in Old Bridge,
> New Jersey. Maybe we should end Mark Levy to check
> it out!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757



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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:11:35 -0400
From: Noah <sitz_at_dml_onastick.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Living in the Bermuda Triangle

On Thu, Jul 31, 2003 at 04:26:56PM -0000, David Teitelbaum wrote:

> Try a squirt of ether.

...and then try giving the car one.

<rimshot>

Noah Robin
#2867



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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 16:49:04 EDT
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Auxillary Air Pipe(s)

I just noticed that the metal pipe that connects to the rear of the Idle 
Speed Regulator is very loose on the end I can't see.  Where does this end go?  
How do I check it?

The pipe that connects to the cold start valve is also a little loose under 
the manifold.  What is the easiest way to tighten this?

Pehaps this is why 6530 doesn't idle well?

Thanks again,

Dave & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:55:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Transmission conversion AT/MT

Hello all:

    Id like to throw this out there and see where it
goes.  Be gentle.

    I have an automatic transmission in my D and yes
it leaks. (not bad yet).  As soon as I have time I
will address this matter, but I got to thinkin...  If
the AT were in such bad condition that If requires
major repairs hypothetically speaking, I for one, am a
total stranger to the AT.  This is my first one.  That
means big money.

    The question is..............

If AT was a dealer option, then by default all
deloreans were inherently designed to be 5 speeds.
This would (in a wierd way) mean that If one were to
convert their delorean to MT from AT they would
actually be converting BACK to MT, at least from a
factory perspective.

   I know this means lots of fun stuff having to
happen to do this.  Has anyone here done this before?
What kind of undertaking is it. 

   I know the folks rebuilding the engine on the list
are probably laughing that I would call this tranny
swapout  an undertaking after what theve been through
:)

Hmmm guess a clutch pedal and a shifter with all new
center console trim.  T think theres a hydralic
mechanism upfront that ive not yet seen. I just have a
black cap that goes down into an empty hole.  and of
course the transmission.

    Share your thoughts.


thanx

jordan 11613

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com



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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:08:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Idle speed regulator removal

Hello all:

    Quick question:

When working with the back driver side plugs and fuel
injectors, it seems almost necessary to get the idle
speed regulator out of the way.  I imagine it could be
removed by removing the round clamp, dosconnecting the
two hoses and the electrical connector.

am i right here? and is there anyspecial consideration
about dirt getting in this unit or the cold start
valve for that matter.


thanx

jordan 11613

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:13:56 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: First post as an owner :)

Hello,

I'm the proud new owner of #1604 and I have a few questions now that 
I've finally gotten my car (16 years in the making).  I've done a 
fair bit of searching first.  

1.  What is the preferred method to re-attach the gas cap?  It looks 
like the epoxy cracked that held it to the hinge.  

2.  If the key is turned to the 'on' position without the engine 
running, what instrument panel lights should be illuminated?  

3.  Will a Lockzilla fix a door lock that sticks in the 1/2-way 
position?  

4.  It seems like the passenger side power window, when closing, 
attempts to 'over-crank' after it has closed and makes an awful 
noise.  Any idea what this could be?

5.  I've read the owner's manual, but I'm still unsure how the 
luggage compartment, and engine compartment release levers 
are "supposed" to work.  My engine compartment lever does not seem to 
do anything; I can lift and lower the louvers and compartment 
covering freely.  The luggage compartment, I need to pull the lever 
and at the same time pull up on the hood to raise it.  

thanks a lot!

Matt Spittle







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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:52:10 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Auxillary Air Pipe(s)

The pipe goes into a hole in the bottom of the fuel dist housing. It 
has an o-ring that creates the seal. If the pipe is not completely in 
the hole and/or the o-ring is missing or dislodged, the car will run 
horribly or not at all due to the huge vacuum leak. 

Same for the other one. Unfortunatly you need to remove the intake to 
get to it. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> I just noticed that the metal pipe that connects to the rear of the 
Idle 
> Speed Regulator is very loose on the end I can't see.  Where does 
this end go?  
> How do I check it?
> 
> The pipe that connects to the cold start valve is also a little 
loose under 
> the manifold.  What is the easiest way to tighten this?
> 
> Pehaps this is why 6530 doesn't idle well?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Dave & 6530
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:54:08 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Idle speed regulator removal

Getting it out is the easy part. Pull it and the whole tube out.  
Getting it back in is another matter. Involving some luck and small 
mirrors. It's quite do-able though. See adjacent post for the 
pitfalls. To avoid dirt clean everything before you start taking 
things apart. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_y...> 
wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
>     Quick question:
> 
> When working with the back driver side plugs and fuel
> injectors, it seems almost necessary to get the idle
> speed regulator out of the way.  I imagine it could be
> removed by removing the round clamp, dosconnecting the
> two hoses and the electrical connector.
> 
> am i right here? and is there anyspecial consideration
> about dirt getting in this unit or the cold start
> valve for that matter.
>




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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 21:59:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: First post as an owner :)

Answers inserted...---

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I'm the proud new owner of #1604 
------Congratulations and welcome to The Adventure.....
> 2.  If the key is turned to the 'on' position without the engine 
> running, what instrument panel lights should be illuminated?  
------All of them, unless the light circuit has been modified to only 
go on with the headlights. 
> 3.  Will a Lockzilla fix a door lock that sticks in the 1/2-way 
> position?  
------No - it can't do miracles. Electronics will not fix mechanical 
problems. You probably have a half-melted solenoid and/or some 
mechanical issues. 
> 4.  It seems like the passenger side power window, when closing, 
> attempts to 'over-crank' after it has closed and makes an awful 
> noise.  Any idea what this could be?
------Window regulator. Let go of the button before it makes the 
noise. There are no limit switches on this car. Put a couple hundred 
bucks in the budget for a new regulator eventually. 
> 5.  I've read the owner's manual, but I'm still unsure how the 
> luggage compartment, and engine compartment release levers 
> are "supposed" to work. 
------ The engine cover and trunk cover are supposed to be latched, 
when you pull the releases they should "pop" open slightly. You may 
need adjustments and/or new springs. The louvers are supposed to 
latch to the engine cover and release when you pull the lever 
underneath. 

Dave Swingle





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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:10:07 +0000
From: "David Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_msn.com>
Subject: Radiatior.

My radiator is leaking... Suggestions?   Please send reponses/suggestions 
off list to dsilek_at_dml_msn.com .

Thank you in advance,
David Silek

_________________________________________________________________
Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail




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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 02:31:27 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Radiatior.

Replace it. Not repairable, don't put any gunk in this cooling 
system. 

OEM or brass replacement, doesn't really matter. OEM fits better, all-
brass cools better, cost about the same. 

Dave Swingle

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Silek" <dsilek_at_dml_m...> wrote:
> My radiator is leaking... Suggestions?   Please send 
reponses/suggestions 
> off list to dsilek_at_dml_m... .
> 
> Thank you in advance,
> David Silek





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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:46:12 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: A small favor...

Ok guys, 

I have a whole new set of things to check. Dave Stragand sent me a
fascinating email the length of "War & Peace" about an old DeSoto that
behaved exactly like my car. That's another story though.

Someone quite a while back mentioned a plugged cat convertor or some
such. Then today, my non-mechanically inclined wife asked me the same
thing. A sign from God? 

As soon as I got home, I turned the key on and used my remote starter
switch to crank the engine and feel for exhaust.

It was so feeble that I could place my hand over the pipe and stop it.

When I pull the plugs, I get a -great- "whuff" of air from the spark
plug holes. You can put your hand 2 or 3 feet above the engine and
feel it easily, but nothing from the exhaust.

The question is, even if I have no combustion, will I still have a
strong puff of air/gases coming out of the exhaust, or do you have to
have combustion to have any appreciable flow? My manifolds and gaskets
are brand-new. I should have no leaks.

Could someone -please- disable your ignition, and fuel pump and give a
few cranks and let me know? Or, if you already know the answer, give
me a shout.

Thanks,

Rich




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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 18:04:56 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Shock Lengths

        Hello all. Would someone happen to have the extended and compressed lengths for
the stock shocks? If anyone has this info I would appreciate it. 

                   Thanks in advance..............Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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