From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1608
Date: Sunday, August 03, 2003 8:36 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
From: "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>

2. Front Springs
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>

3. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

4. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear ST...
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com

5. More experiments
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

6. Houston, we have a ground
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

7. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

8. Storage barn conversion?
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>

9. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear ST...
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 12:45:52 -0400
From: "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL

My car was stored for over 13 years....I think I am probably using 21 year
old 90 weight oil....outside of Valvoline synthetic, what is Redline...is it
a 90 weight oil? What weight of lube oil should I use?

Michael W. Townsley
townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com] 
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 8:56 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and
1st gear STILL
...
The only exception to this is on cars that have been stored a very 
logn 10 years) time - there are several sliding parts in the trans 
that are above the level of the oil, and with lack of use will sieze 
up over time. Often they will free up after it gets hot a few times. 
Ken K ran into this on one of his restorals - after a few weeks of 
driving some gears that were locked out started working. 



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 13:25:52 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj_at_dml_tds.net>
Subject: Front Springs


     Hello all. Would anyone happen to have a set of aftermarket front springs (ex: Gradys)  to lower the front end down to 
where it was supposed to be that they would like to part with? I don't want any stock springs that have just simply been 
cut down. If you do then please mail me off list with what you have and shoot me a price. 

                                                      Thanks in advance...................Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 12:03:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL

I think Dave is right, before you go chasing after all of these suggestions, see if you've got an original clutch link, or an adjustable one. The great thing about adjustable ones is it allows you to chose just how far the master cylinder travels. It's a very cheap fix, which is invaluable when redoing the clutch system.

I was replacing my entire clutch system at about this time last year. I had your symptoms, and also tried putting in the clutch line, and adjustable link first. This helped slightly, but didn't remedy anything fully... and soon the problem was back again. So next I put in a new master cylinder, as mine was very slowly leaking. This again helped, but didn't cure completely the problem. So within a month or two my clutch gave out, and while the tranny was pulled for the new clutch, I took advantage of this time, and installed a new slave cylinder, throwout arm, and throwout bearing. In the end I've gotten a brand new/upgraded clutch hydrolic system... and the difference is amazing! It's like a completely different car. 

Unfortunately, I think that the clutch system is just one of those things on the DeLorean that you need to completely upgrade, all at one time. When you fix one part, it only accelerates the wear on another dying part, and brings out its weaknesses quicker.

Louie Golden
VIN 10115

--- "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com> wrote:
Also look for a mis-adjusted or worn (aftermarket) adjustable link on the clutch pedal. You didn't mention  that. 
>
>Dave Swingle

_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of  "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>



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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 16:40:35 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear ST...

I have use RedLine MT-90 in my DeLorean's tranny for over 80,000 miles in the 
last 7 years.  I do changed the oil once every two years.  My car is driven 
on extreme long highway runs well as in NYC traffic -- daily.  A big difference 
in the cold winter for there is no "thickness" in gear shifting and no "dino" 
smell in the hot weathers.  One draw back -- the product is pricey -- but 
well worth it.

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY

=================================================================

In a message dated 8/2/2003 8:59:44 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com writes:

> Subj: Re: [DML] Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st 
> gear STILL 
>  Date: 8/2/2003 8:59:44 AM Eastern Standard Time
>  From: <A HREF="mailto:swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com">swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com</A>
>  Reply-to: <A HREF="mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com">dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com</A>
>  To: <A HREF="mailto:dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com">dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com</A>
>  Sent from the Internet 
> 
> 
> You aren't by chance still running 21-year-old 90-weight oil are you? 
> Use a good gear oil - I know some folks that swear by RedLine, but 
> I've not tried it. (Jim Reeve?). 
> 
> Dave Swingle
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 23:02:10 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: More experiments

Well, scratch clogged exhaust as cause of engine failure.

Dave Stragand has recommended using the scientific method when things
get tough. Things passed tough weeks ago.

Using the notes he supplied me with, I have stated the problem, the
symptoms, or observations and as many hypotheses (reasons for failure)
as I could come up with, and the experiments I performed to prove them.

Some experiments were enough to rule out certain causes. Some were
not. For instance, I still haven't used a pressure gauge to -measure-
compression. I've only felt it by hand.

I will post the Word file of my procedures to the "files" section of
the list under folder "#5335". If you see a test I've missed that I
could try, or a hypothesis I haven't thought of please let me know.

I only have a few things left to try...

Rich




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 00:36:37 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Houston, we have a ground

First, the giveaway: while cleaning up workbench today found two
switch illumination bulbs (headlight and hazard), one brand new and
one 15K miles. I of course don't use (after almost burning car up). If
anyone going to SEDOC wants, let me know (contact off list). First
come=first served.

Speaking of SEDOC: I still have bunches of NAPA 1.25" heater hose.
Can't even remember my cost, but think it's about $3 a foot. If anyone
wants to buy some at SEDOC, let me know before and I'll bring along.
Don't want to bring whole big roll, so be sure to contact before.

Now the important part: despite despicable weather
(rain/sun/rain/sun...), grounded fuel pump at frame visible through
access panel. Realized ground point would be exposed to mega water (I
have a splash guard to route windshield plenum drain water away from
pump & sender. Works better than little hose because won't get
clogged), so is actually a 1" tall post made from threads of 10-24
machine screw. Post is tapped into frame and sealed with 3/4" washer
in bed of silicone. Ground wire is sandwiched between two nuts at top
of post. All hardware is stainless of course. Not only will this solve
future pump electrical problems, but I now have a convenient ground
for  ice pick light diagnoses up front!

Bill Robertson
#5939





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 02:20:51 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL

RedLine is a brand of very expensive "boutique" lubricants - mostly 
available thru your better high-performance vendors. You want their 
product called Redline MTL. It's intended for use where 90W is 
specified. The downside is that the DMC transaxle holds about a 
gallon of the stuff, so it comes out as a $50 oil change. Upside is 
you really only need to do it every 10 years or so. . . Actually last 
time I bought the Valvoline stuff it wasn't much cheaper than that. 

The DMC factory spec is 90W gear oil. 

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "michael townsley" <townfour_at_dml_m...> 
wrote:
> My car was stored for over 13 years....I think I am probably using 
21 year
> old 90 weight oil....outside of Valvoline synthetic, what is 
Redline...is it
> a 90 weight oil? What weight of lube oil should I use?
> 
> Michael W. Townsley
> townfour_at_dml_m...
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle_at_dml_d...] 
> Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 8:56 AM

> Subject: Re: [DML] Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but
> ...
> The only exception to this is on cars that have been stored a very 
> logn 10 years) time - there are several sliding parts in the trans 
> that are above the level of the oil, and with lack of use will 
sieze 
> up over time. Often they will free up after it gets hot a few 
times. 





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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 11:16:32 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian_at_dml_netvigator.com>
Subject: Storage barn conversion?

DMCers,

My father has just given me one of his farmyard Barns (built 1890, 3ft thick
stone walls, slate roof) in N.Ireland as a permanent storage facility for my
DeLoreans and m'cycles collection.

Has anyone any experience with the best way to store vehicles. I'm thinking
of even installing an underfloor heating system to keep the damp/cold at bay
during the winter. Also insulation between rafters.

I am an Architect so should know the technics, but would prefer to hear some
real life experiences/preferences.

Regards,         IAN (Hong Kong)
****************************





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 00:08:07 EDT
From: kayoong_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear ST...

Michael:

For more info, check:  www.redlineoil.com

Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY

================================================================


In a message dated 8/2/2003 10:16:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com writes:
> 
> 
> My car was stored for over 13 years....I think I am probably using 21 year
> old 90 weight oil....outside of Valvoline synthetic, what is Redline...is it
> a 90 weight oil? What weight of lube oil should I use?
> 
> Michael W. Townsley
> townfour_at_dml_mindspring.com
> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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