From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1646
Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 10:43 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: CPR Vacuum delay valve
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

2. Re: CPR Vacuum delay valve
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

4. Re: Hawthorn
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

5. Fw: Air con Re build part 1
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>

6. Re: Vacuum Delay Valve position
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

7. Ital Design Anniversary
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

8. Frame Restore
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (John Hervey)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

11. Re: Ital Design Anniversary
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

12. Thinking of putting CD Player in Driver Comparment....
From: "p12c16" <p12c16_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Re: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>

14. Electrical help / Starting problem - I'm stuck
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

15. Moved to Philly
From: DeLorean5000_at_dml_comcast.net

16. Rebuilding power mirror adjuster switch
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:35:22 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: CPR Vacuum delay valve

If you have the Technical Information Manual, look on page 52. 
Circle 1 - Delay valve; the side the arrow points to is the Carb 
side. The Vacuum supply side is the Dist side. The different colors 
indicate the rate of bleed-down. Brown, if I remember correctly, is 
a very long delay and therefore may cause a too rich condition under 
cold engine acceleration (after warm up this circuit is dropped). 
The delay is suppose to be 10 seconds and is a white color code on 
mine. They do go bad and then you will notice a hesitation on cold 
start acceleration.

Harold McElraft - 3354




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I just got a vacuum delay valve (part#102410) for the control 
> pressure regulator and I cant tell which direction it goes in. One 
> side of it says "carb" and the other says "dist". The one side is 
tan 
> in color and the other side black. 
> 
> Also this part has a Ford symbol stamped on it. Were these parts 
> originally made by Ford? 
> thanks, 
> 
> Adam




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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 02:29:11 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: CPR Vacuum delay valve

Just removed one of these from a Lincoln. Was going to throw away. If
anyone going to SEDOC wants, let me know and I'll bring with.

My CPR is totally different, but appears from vacuum diagram in Tech
Manual that "carb" nipple points towards Tee and "dist" nipple goes to
CPR.

Ford uses these things in horrifically complicated spark advance
setup. When they switched to 4350 carburetor, moved spark advance to a
full time vacuum port. Then had to route through delay valves and
ported vacuum switches just to make engine run. Stupid.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I just got a vacuum delay valve (part#102410) for the control 
> pressure regulator and I cant tell which direction it goes in. One 
> side of it says "carb" and the other says "dist". The one side is tan 
> in color and the other side black. 
> 
> Also this part has a Ford symbol stamped on it. Were these parts 
> originally made by Ford? 
> thanks, 
> 
> Adam




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 13:51:34 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.

CO at less than 1% is too low in my experience; CO2 at 14.1 is too 
low also. Try 2% CO. This will probably yield a CO2 reading around 
15.0, HC should still be near 0, NO will still be low too. Run and 
idle should sinc up and you can still pass an emmissions test with 
flying colors.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> John,
> The engine was set up at normal operating temperature with both 
fans running
> and A/C off. I have set the CO using an exhaust gas analyzer. The 
method of
> adjustment was to simply let the tool sit in the screw head 
without any
> downward pressure turning 1/16 to 1/8 at a time. I can't seem to 
set my idle
> at 950 with the O2 sensor plugged in. If I attempt this it swings 
wildly as
> if it wants to stay near 750. I have been making the idle 
adjustments using
> the curb-idle screw on the throttle linkage. I have noticed that 
if I use
> the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body intake manifold, 
(The slotted
> brass one of the three closest to the throttle plates) it has no 
effect on
> the idle speed at all. As a matter of fact, none seem to have any 
effect at
> all ...with or without the O2 sensor connected! The closest I can 
get to a
> stable idle is a swing of 25-50 rpms in either direction. However, 
even then
> the engine idles very rough. I have checked for all possible 
vacuum leaks
> and there are none. The timing is 13 degrees BTDC on the money. 
(at 750rpm)
> There is no vacuum present at the distributor vacuum advance. The 
lambda
> system appears to be working as is the CIS.  That is to say that 
the air
> valve is actuating in both directions and the Lambda system reacts 
to the O2
> sensor signal. The full throttle switch is functioning. ( when I 
press it,
> the idle will settle right down.) The idle microswitch is 
functional and
> adjusted properly...well as properly as I can get it with this 
idle problem.
> At startup on a cold engine, the car turns right over but runs 
very rough
> until it warms up a bit. It idles rough and boggs down if you 
attempt to
> give it some throttle. Once warmed up, it becomes very responsive 
and seems
> to drive O.K. Thereafter, it is easy to start and accelerate but 
the idle
> remains poor.
> 
> Thanks,
> Rustproof
> vin 1559
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_s...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 1:55 AM
> Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle 
problem)
> 
> 
> > Rustproof, See below.My 2 Cents.
> > John Hervey
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rustproof [mailto:Rustproof_at_dml_p...]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 9:36 AM
> > To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle
> > problem)
> >
> >
> > Having taken all the advice I could get from the list and the 
archives, I
> > have attempted to set up both the CO mixture as well as the CIS 
idle. This
> > was fiddled with by the previous owner and never properly reset. 
I set the
> > (CO Mixture Screw) air/fuel mixture using an exhaust gas 
analyzer at
> 14.1:1
> > with CO emmission at less than 1%. Idle set was 750 and varied 
about
> 50rpms
> > high and low.
> >
> > ( First I would adjust by ear and set the idle at 950. Makes 
sure the
> lower
> > idle speed screw on the throttle body lever is resting on the 
stricker
> plate
> > and then the upper screw is turned in about 30 thousands and 
hitting the
> > microswitch to activate the idle speed motor 1st..)
> >
> >
> > The frequency valve could be heard at idle at a relatively
> > constant and stable pitch. ( Good, it should be.)
> >
> >  The engine appeared to run very smoothly.
> > However, upon shutting it off, it would not restart! I then 
advanced the
> > mixture screw by 1/8th turn intervals clockwise until the engine 
was able
> to
> > start. The idle was erratic and fluctuated several hundred RPMs 
hunting
> > wildly. The frequency valve buzzed on the lean upswings and was 
silent on
> > the downswings. I then adjusted the CO screw (by ear) until the 
engine ran
> > smooth again but I could see by the analyzer that it was running 
on the
> rich
> > side to get it to settle down. I then set the idle again to 750. 
This time
> > the idle remained on 750 exactly with no fluctuation at all but 
the
> > frequency valve remained silent. I assume that this is due to 
the very
> rich
> > mixture. The engine seems to run fine set like this but I 
realize that I
> am
> > essentially nullifying the lambda system with the over-rich 
mixture.
> > ( The Lambda ECU is electronicly set to enrich untill the 02 
kicks in,
> That
> > why it's running rich.)
> >
> > The engine has been checked methodically and no vacuum leaks can 
be found.
> > All
> > o-rings, tubing and fuel system parts including pump, 
accumulator and hot
> > start kits are new. The engine has only 8,000 miles on it.
> >
> > ( When you adjusted the 02 about 1/8th turn, Do you know what 
you did. Was
> > the engine hot,and did you push down on the tool or just let it 
rest in
> the
> > screw head and turn.)
> >
> >  I was hoping that someone on the list with a pefectly 
operationg system
> > might answer the following questions:
> >
> > 1. At idle, should the frequency valve buzz constantly and 
steadily?
> > ( If everything is properly adjusted my answer would be yes.)
> >
> >
> > 2. With the O2 sensor unplugged, I am able to set up everything 
exactly to
> > spec. and the engine runs smooth and perfect. As soon as I 
reconnect it,
> it
> > hunts wildly again and I am forced to adjust the CO mix again to 
get it to
> > settle down! Why is this happening?
> > ( Your doing a manuel adjustment and the 02 does it 
electronicly.The 02
> it's
> > going to monitor it every step of the way which is what it's 
supposed to
> > do.You just have to get to the 14.0 to 1 so there will be very 
little
> swing
> > by the 02 to the Lambda ECU to the FV.)
> >
> > 3. At 750 idle, should the CIS adjust to compensate for the A/C 
load or
> does
> > the idle normally drop 100 RPMs.
> > ( The CIS,??? has nothing to do with the extra load.Not for sure 
what you
> > mean Should the CIS compensate.)
> >
> > Your input will be greatly appreciated!
> > Thanks,
> > Rustproof
> > Vin #1559
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > > moderators_at_dml_d...
> > >
> > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> > www.dmcnews.com
> > >
> > > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >




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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 18:06:48 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Hawthorn

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Carl" <carlmailuk_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> ( moderators comment: While many of us have heard the story of the
'fairy tree' it's  highly doubtful that John DeLorean had anything
physical to do with bulldozing the tree. )

Right. In truth, no one really knows who removed the tree. One morning
when the construction crew arrived, the tree was finally gone. It's
possible it could have been the site manager, since he was the one who
bribed workers to remove the shrub, but no one really knows for certain.

Although I have to agree, it is interesting how references to the car
always appear in the most unusual of places.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:09:49 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury_at_dml_btinternet.com>
Subject: Fw: Air con Re build part 1

Ok so I made the move today to start the re-build of my air-con system.

Thanks to Ken Koncelik and his simplified instructions I got the evaporator core out in under an hour. Now just have to wait for the new one to arrive and 'pop' it back in, hope that's as easy.

While I'm waiting I put a few other bits together, Condenser is now hung on the radiator, and connected to the compressor,and also now the pipe work and switches are in place over to the accumulator.

So hopefully it is now just put in the evaporator and accumulator and have it leak tested  and gassed.

Please don't shoot me down for this, but I just had to check what was happening with the system so I fired up the car and turned the mode switch to cool and jumped the low pressure switch.

What did I get, well the main pipe that connects to the accumulator and runs back to the compressor was sucking like mad....... and the pipe coming over the accumulator from the condenser was blowing well....... Is this a good sign????

Cheers
Paul
#6463

www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 14:43:32 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Delay Valve position

The vacuum routing diagram in the engine cover shows which way it 
goes if you look closely.

I believe the light colored side goes towards the front of the car.

Ford? No idea. Where'd you get it?





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 14:18:50 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Ital Design Anniversary

Has anyone noticed the coverage in several of the major U.S. auto magazines
of Ital Design's 35th anniversary celebration where examples of Giugiaro's designs from over the years were gathered? The DeLorean was conspicuously
missing. True, the focus was on Giugiaro's son Fabrizio to promote the
future of Ital Design but all Giorgetto's designs from the DeLorean era were
there except the DeLorean. For whatever shortcomings the DeLorean has been
accused of having its styling certainly wasn't among them. It's almost as
though Giugiaro would prefer to disassociate himself with the car and rather disappointing for DeLorean enthusiasts.

Bruce Benson




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:17:38 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Frame Restore

Hey Everyone!

I checked Paul Salsbury site and also got a closer look at my frame 
today.  The Epoxy has cracked in some areas so it looks like I'll be 
doing a lot of work next summer.  Has anyone tackled this frame 
restoration before?  How long did it take?  Any help would be greatly 
appreciated.

Thanks!
Greg





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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 16:08:26 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (John Hervey)

I know you asked for John but I am offering my advice too.
 When you adjust the mixture screw you MUST remove the wrench and plug
the hole over the screw and THEN check the analyzer. Otherwise you
have a large vacuum leak and will not get an acurate reading.
 If turning the brass screw won't have any effect either both of the
other 2 are closed, something is plugged up, or the throttle plates
are not closed all the way. If the motor isn't warming up well check
the vacuum circuit to the control pressure regulater and if that
doesn't help you might have to replace it. Also check the thermistor
for the idle circuit. It is supposed to tell the idle ECU to increase
the idle until the motor warms up. If the engine is very rough it
could need a tune-up and clean the fuel injectors.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> John,
> The engine was set up at normal operating temperature with both fans
running
> and A/C off. I have set the CO using an exhaust gas analyzer. The
method of
> adjustment was to simply let the tool sit in the screw head without any
> downward pressure turning 1/16 to 1/8 at a time. I can't seem to set
my idle
> at 950 with the O2 sensor plugged in. If I attempt this it swings
wildly as





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 20:19:38 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.

Volvo and Renault both set up their engines at 1.5%, my DeLorean runs as 
sweet as a nut at this.

Martin

Harold McElraft wrote:

>CO at less than 1% is too low in my experience; CO2 at 14.1 is too 
>low also. Try 2% CO. This will probably yield a CO2 reading around 
>15.0, HC should still be near 0, NO will still be low too. Run and 
>idle should sinc up and you can still pass an emmissions test with 
>flying colors.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
>  
>





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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 22:59:23 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Ital Design Anniversary

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
<SNIP>
For whatever shortcomings the DeLorean has been
> accused of having its styling certainly wasn't among them. It's
almost as
> though Giugiaro would prefer to disassociate himself with the car
and rather disappointing for DeLorean enthusiasts.
> 
> Bruce Benson

Even when Giugiaro first designed the prototype car, he really didn't
think it to be unique. He just looked upon it as yet another one of
his designs that he cranked out for automobile companies (this comes
from the book "Dream Maker" if I'm not mistaken). Although, it must
hold some sort of special place for the company, as a DMC-12 is not
only listed on his website's archive, but one is included in his
museum in Italy. Someone here posted a pic of it a while back, and I
belive that it has a custom, tan interior.

Unfortunate as it seems, we all pretty much drive the "Red-headed
Stepchildren" of the automotive industry. I seriously hate to say it,
but it's true. I once read an article regarding JZD's bankruptcy trial
(which he came out clean from, of course), and it had an interesting
quote regarding how the effects of DMC's collapse could still be felt.
It was along the lines of, "The Boom from the fall of DMC still
lingers over the head of JZD.", or something like that. Interesting
quote, but truth be told, it's been more like radioactive fallout,
rather than just a mere inital shock, and we've all had to wade thru
it. So as far as PR goes here in the US, perhaps omitting the DMC-12
is veiwed a "precautionary" move?

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 04:10:28 -0000
From: "p12c16" <p12c16_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Thinking of putting CD Player in Driver Comparment....

Hey All,
           I have decided I don't want to have to cut my radio bracket or order 
another one from DMCH, so I am thinking of putting a CD player in the 
compartment behind the driver's seat.  I have seen pictures of a few other 
owners who have done this and it looks interesting.  This way I can leave my 
Craig radio in for originality (and not break the ribbon cable hinge with a tape 
adapter).   Does anyone who has done this have any suggestions for me?  

Thanks, 
Patrick
1880




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 00:11:20 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.

John, David, Harold and Martin:

Thank you for your input. I will give your suggestions a shot Moday morning.
(David, I do recap the adjustment hole between readings) I'll let you guys
know what happens. Stay tuned....
Rustproof
Vin#1559
p.s.
Where else but the DML can you find such a wealth of information and so many
willing to share it? Thanks all!



----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Gutkowski" <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2003 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit.


> Volvo and Renault both set up their engines at 1.5%, my DeLorean runs as
> sweet as a nut at this.
>
> Martin
>
> Harold McElraft wrote:
>
> >CO at less than 1% is too low in my experience; CO2 at 14.1 is too
> >low also. Try 2% CO. This will probably yield a CO2 reading around
> >15.0, HC should still be near 0, NO will still be low too. Run and
> >idle should sinc up and you can still pass an emmissions test with
> >flying colors.
> >
> >Harold McElraft - 3354
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>





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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 22:35:36 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Electrical help / Starting problem - I'm stuck

I've been looking over the electical diagram today, to no avail.

John Hervey - seems like this one is right up your alley.

When my key is the ON position my fuel pump does not charge-up. 
Therefor when I turn it to START it THEN primes-up and takes a 
little longer to start the engine. I've done some looking. And the 
RPM Relay doesn't close in the ON position. BUT once the engine is 
started the RPM relay stays closed, and the car runs just fine.

Looking at the electrical diagram tells me that if in the ON 
position, the wiper blades should work too.... they DO! so the 
ignition switch is fine... as is the main relay. It's only the RPM 
relay that seems not to work in that position. I haven't check the 
other companants on the first fuse... I just now thought of that... 
but it seem like there is very little to fail between the fuse the 
RPM relay... especially considering the RPM relay (and everything 
else for that matter) works fine AFTER the key snaps back into the 
ON Position from START.

Confusing enough for ya? Any help?? Anyone?


BTW, I finally caught that episode of Monster Garage... Nice job 
guys!! Did WAY better than I ever could have done... But Eric took 
the fun ride... That jump looked like great fun!!
Also... that One wheeled vehicle on the same show... that was cool. 

Thanks for any help anyone can provide,
James 004009




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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 01:00:27 +0000
From: DeLorean5000_at_dml_comcast.net
Subject: Moved to Philly

I just wanted to let the group know as a whole that I have relocated to 
Philadelphia, Pa, from Winston-Salem, NC.  I have switched ISP and have lost a 
few email addresses and the such, so I hope this is okay with the moderators 
and they allow this thru.  Previously, my email was Iznodmad"at"aol.com for 
those of you who remember seeing that for the past 7+ years of dmcnews list 
activity.  My new email is DeLorean5000"at"comcast.net.  For various reasons, 
I was not able to bring my D with me, but she is safe and sound back in NC in 
my garage.  For those of you who already know me, please keep in contact with 
my new email.  For those of you in the general mid-atlantic area whom I may 
know or not know, I look forward to meeting with you all as time allows.  I 
say as time allows b/c I am up here going to medical school and time 
management is a key concern of mine.  Please drop me a line if you have 
interest in forming a DeLorean bond.

Regards,
Darren Decker
#5000
     



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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 23:03:11 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu>
Subject: Rebuilding power mirror adjuster switch

Hello,

In the process of attempting to remove my lower driver-side door 
panel, I used a screwdriver to pop-out the power mirror adjuster.  
In the process of doing so, it came apart and several pieces fell 
out of it (a few springs and some small metal balls).  I have all of 
the pieces.  Does anyone have a clue on how to put this back 
together?

It worked before this happened.

Matt
#1604






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