From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1650
Date: Thursday, September 04, 2003 10:50 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. interior and door advice
From: Swoyerzone_at_dml_aol.com

2. DeLorean Updates
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. RE: No power on warm engine aka Lawnmower Man
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

4. Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>

5. RE: Zinc Plated Frame
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>

6. Cleaner/Sealer
From: "Michael Fischer" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>

7. Wanted:
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

8. Re: Zinc Plated Frame
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

10. Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?
From: "v_davidj" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>

11. Stainless Steel Illusion update
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>

12. Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?
From: Thomas Mc Auley <mcauleydmc_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>

13. AW: Zinc Plated Frame
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>

14. Cooling fans and the ignition
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>

15. Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Swapping Clutch on a 5 speed?
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>

17. Re: Re: Thinking of putting CD Player in Driver Comparment....
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

18. Delorean in a song at Pigeon Forge NEW
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

19. Re: Re: My New DMC - Help!
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

20. RE: My New DMC - Help!
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

21. Re: Cleaner/Sealer
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

22. Re:My New DMC - Help!
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

23. Re: Cooling fans and the ignition
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

24. Re: Swapping Clutch on a 5 speed?
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

25. Recover Dash and instrument hood or buy NOS?
From: "Dale Schaub" <DaleSchaub_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>





Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 00:54:35 EDT
From: Swoyerzone_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: interior and door advice

My 81 DMC sat from 1985 to 1997 untouched, but I when I bought it I found 
that the dash is covered since it went from gray to brown/black, but the rest 
isn't in bad shape. I want to re dye the seats for now since I'm still dealing 
with mechanical problems and want to save some money before replacing seats, 
dash, door panels, etc., but the seats are pretty cracked, the only real damage 
is a sun mark on the driver door no larger then a quarter and not very 
noticeable, and the stitch on the passenger door is coming a part. Would the covers be 
ok to take off, I have asked this to a few restoration shops and have gotten 
conflicting answers. Also my car was in a garage for almost a year and was 
damaged more then fixed. The doors had almost brand new struts but I was told the 
driver door gave out and the strut was replaced, however it has a sort of 
limp to it. It opens only with help and needs you to hold it in position or it 
droops down a bit. Is this the torsion bar or faulty strut?


thanks,
Darryl
5898


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 12:21:48 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: DeLorean Updates

Besides the front frame extension, what updates need to be performed 
to a 1981 DeLorean?




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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 08:44:24 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: No power on warm engine aka Lawnmower Man

I replaced the filter last year. I believe my problem is a bad O2 sensor. I
put a dwell meter on and got a steady reading of 47 degrees. Even when the
engine was up to operating temp, I got the same reading. 

The DMC manual says that if the oxygen sensor is disconnected it will read
between 40-50 steady. The Volvo manual also says that if the O2 sensor is
damaged, it will operate on a fixed duty cycle.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob van der Veer [mailto:rob.van.der.veer_at_dml_delorean-europe.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 3:36 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [DML] No power on warm engine aka Lawnmower Man
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Travis Goodwin [mailto:tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com]
> Sent: dinsdag 2 september 2003 14:54
> To: 'dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com'
> Subject: [Spam][99.0%] [DML] No power on warm engine aka Lawnmower Man>
> After tracking down all vacuum leaks after the cylinder head repair, I
> was
> > ready for a day of smooth sailing. Right out of the garage, the car
> shot out
> > like a scalded dog. I was very pleased. However, by the time I was 15
> minutes
> > into my journey things got bad. I had no acceleration and eventually
> would
> > have to shift down to 3rd just to make up the slight inclines on the
> highway.
> 
> I experienced a similar problem 2 years ago. What was the last time you
> checked or changed your fuel filter?
> 
> Mine was so clogged up, that it because impossible for the car to keep
> up good fuel pressure.
> 
> Just my two eurocents..
> 
> Rob.
> VIN3695
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 10:02:29 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign_at_dml_execpc.com>
Subject: Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?

Use Steel Wool grade 0000 Ultra Fine, with some glass cleaner. I learned how to use this from a Ford dealership i worked for when we prepped the new cars for delivery to the new owners. Also i believed we used Bon Ami cleaner sine it had no abrasions but i cant remember if that was the correct name
so dont hold me to that name.

Also some good old Vinegar will remove the water stains and also make your car smell so fresh and clean like a Pickle jar, use with Steel Wool.

DO NOT use your Scotch Brite pad because this will scratch the windows.

The Steel Wool will remove bugs and other hard to remove junk off your window. If you have something harder on the window you can use a Razor Blade with the sharp part of the blade flush to the window on an angle and scrape your gunk off with glass cleaner sprayed on the gunk first to lubricate the
blade.

Mark
6683



Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> I am wondering if anyone has any really good tips for getting rid of stains in my side glass from water deposits (they are irregular stains that cover the whole window as if water droplets dried on it but you can't wipe it off).  i've used windex, dish soap, also break-up cleaner.  nothing helps.
>
> any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
> Andy
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 10:30:27 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp_at_dml_bwig.net>
Subject: RE: Zinc Plated Frame

When I did my frame, I had the sections that were bad blasted to remove the
epoxy.  In areas that it is hard to get at, I did it manually.  But what I
found was that a good portion of the internal cavities were perfectly fine
so I left the original finish on.  Then I had the frame zinc-chromated.
After that I had the frame powder coated.  The first coat was a zinc rich
powder coat and the second coat was the color coat.

The trailing arms were dipped in a hot galvanizing tank.  It stripped the
existing coating in the process.  Since they are relatively small compared
to the frame, you may have better luck getting them to do it.  I then powder
coated the trailing arms for a color match.

That's how I did it and I'm generally happy with the results.

Nick Kemp

Note: Your mileage may vary.  Subject to being wrong without notice:-)




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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 10:31:15 -0600
From: "Michael Fischer" <Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com>
Subject: Cleaner/Sealer

Howdy All,

	I've got an old bottle of DMC Cleaner/Sealer that I got from
Houston a while back ... But there's no label on it ..I was wondering if
anyone has any tips on the application of it.  (Or if I should even use
it.)

Thanks
Mike
Vin 17106

PS. For those Albertans out there the Airdrie Fall Classic Car Show is
this Saturday, if anyone feels like joining me.




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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 17:00:37 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Wanted:

Wanted: 

Crumple tube ass'y/front frame extension from wrecked/parts car.

Would like it to be in fair/good condition. As little rust as 
possible.

Reply offline. Thanks,

Rich
#5335 Md




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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 16:33:17 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Zinc Plated Frame

Of course before zinc-coating (galvanizing) the frame you must have
done any repairs like cutting out rusted sections and replacing. Zinc
coating cannot get into the lap and butt joints so you must neutralize
any active corrosion first. Zinc coating will add A LOT of weight so
be warned. You may have to cut access holes so all areas can drain
like tubing and boxed in areas. The hot-dipped galvanizing process
will get into all areas but you MUST provide adaquate drainage. You
will have trouble finding someone with a tank large enough and this is
expensive.
Consider an alternative. First remove the epoxy. This can be done
thermally (burn it off) or mechanically (blasting or grinding). Next
have the frame dipped. There are many places that can "dip" the frame.
It is a process that removes all rust and corrosion and is not very
expensive. Look in Hemmings Motor News for a place near you. After
dipping repair or replace all the missing metal. Finally primer and
paint with a product like POR 15. It is very duarable, lasts a long
time, is easily done without special equipment, and it won't add
significant weight. If you don't like the color it can be painted
over. It isn't as brittle as epoxy and is "self healing" like
galvanizing. IMHO galvanizing is overkill and will add too much
weight. Powder coating is great but it cannot get into hidden areas
and it has to be applied to SCRUPULOSLY CLEAN metal. It is very hard
to get a 20 year old rusty frame clean enough to get the benefits of
powder coating with all the joints, spot welds, and hidden areas.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Don Ekhoff <ekhoff_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> 
> Greg,
> 
> It would be fabulous on the areas covered by both processes.  The 
> problem might be that both coatings are subject to having poor coverage 
> where you can't see.  The Zinc is an electroplate process there 
> electricity passing from the tank to the frame is responsible for the 
> coating.  Where this current does not pass (line of sight) it does not 
> plate.  The inside hidden spots would be poorly protected.
> 
> Likewise the powdercoat is applied electrostatically by puting an 
> electrostatic change on the frame and then dusting it with oppositely 
> charged powder.  The powder sticks and is subsequently melted in
place.  
> Great process but it is really hard to get into the really tight spots 
> where you can't see.
> 
> This might be OK if you take a few additional steps.  I recently 
> restored a bugeye sprite that had some long stiffening "u" sections as 
> well as numerous boxed sections that were very vulnerable to rust from 
> within.  After carefully blasting, priming with zinc based paint (aka: 
> cold galvanizing) and a good paint job I applied undercoating to the 
> places I couldn't get to.  I rigged up a spray tip on the end of a
nylon 
> tube.  The tube was plumbed to a pressure tank filled with
undercoating  
> (valved as required).  I then carefully fed the spray tip into the
blind 
> area, turned on the spray and slowly pulled out the tube thereby
coating 
> places I will never be able to reach..  The goo should have not only 
> coated the insides but should also wick into the lap joints ( I had 
> thinned it some). 
> 
> Powdercoat is great stuff and the zinc should only make it better.
> 
> Don Ekhoff
> 6543
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 





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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 13:35:45 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?

Distilled white vinegar. Apply to a clean cloth or paper towel and rub.
Should take water spots right off. You can use regular vinegar, but it stinks.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 07:53 PM 9/2/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>List,
>
>I am wondering if anyone has any really good tips for getting rid of
stains in my side glass from water deposits (they are irregular stains that
cover the whole window as if water droplets dried on it but you can't wipe
it off).  i've used windex, dish soap, also break-up cleaner.  nothing
helps.  
>
>any ideas?
>
>Thanks!
>Andy
>




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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 18:05:57 -0000
From: "v_davidj" <v-davidj_at_dml_microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?

Hi Andy,

I use Griot's Fine Glass polish to remove these spots.  It doesn't 
take much, and easily removes water spots.  This stuff will remove 
anything without hurting the glass.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=11017

Hope this helps.
Dave Jacobs

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> I am wondering if anyone has any really good tips for getting rid 
of stains in my side glass from water deposits (they are irregular 
stains that cover the whole window as if water droplets dried on it 
but you can't wipe it off).  i've used windex, dish soap, also break-
up cleaner.  nothing helps.  
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> Thanks!
> Andy




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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 12:56:43 -0500
From: James Espey <james_at_dml_usadmc.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Illusion update

Received word today that the updated version of "DeLorean: Stainless Steel
Illusion" is on the press as of today. I was sent a set of "ink on paper"
proofs a week or so ago where we changed/corrected a few minor things before
it went to press. It looks really great and I think everyone will be pleased
with the results. We're still on track to receive the finished books the
first part of November.

To answer a couple common questions:

a) The new book is the same as the old book, with a new 16 page chapter
written by DML'er Ryan McCaffrey highlighting the significant points of
interest in the DeLorean hobby since the first book was written.

b) Printed on a similar paper stock, with a similar hardback cover and
dustjacket. Minor changes to the copyright pages and dustjacket to
differentiate the second edition.

c) There were 10,000 copies printed of the first edition of SSI in 1983. We
are printing MANY LESS than that for the second edition. Once these are
gone, it may take another 20 years to get it done again!

d) I expect the other vendors to carry the book as well, contact them
directly for more information. At least two distributors are also planning
to offer the book to their retail store customers, as well. As I learn of
more details, I will post them to the DML.

e)  Finally, re-orders are being taken now through DeLorean Motor Company
(Texas) over the phone or the web site. There have already been a LARGE
number of pre-orders and while supply is not expected to be a problem, we
will ship pre-orders first, in the order that they were received. First
come, first served.

More news as it develops.

James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company (texas)
http://www.delorean.com
800/USA-DMC1
281/441-2537




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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 21:12:14 +0100 (BST)
From: Thomas Mc Auley <mcauleydmc_at_dml_yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?

Try vinegar and rub it on with newspapers. Honestly, works like a charm.


---------------------------------
Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo!Messenger

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 22:26:44 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_gmx.de>
Subject: AW: Zinc Plated Frame


I had my frame sandblasted and it was absolutely no problem for them.
I asked them just to blast the paint off, that would go off anyway, but
When I saw the frame after about 30 minutes (I guess, could have been more)
blasting, about 80% of the epoxy was gone. I didn't zinc coat it, so it
wasn't necesarry to get everything off.
Another german guy had his frame zinc coated by dipping it into hot zinc.
He first had the ok of an insitute which tested the material before he
started the project.

Powder coating may end with the same result as the epoxy - it may crack and
rust can build up and you won't see it. Therefore I used POR15.
So far - 10kmiles and 18 monts later - no rust yet, but can't tell what
will be in 10 years.

Elvis


>Hi there:
>
>There is a company in my area who will sandblast my, zinc coat and
>then powder coat the entire frame.  Does this sound like a good way
>to restore the frame?
>
>Thanks!
>Greg




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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 14:04:36 -0700
From: Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_tmproductions.com>
Subject: Cooling fans and the ignition


I have a curious problem with my DeLorean:

Let's say I take the car out for the day.  During my trip it gets hot 
enough that the cooling fans come on.  At this point, if you turn the 
car off and then try to turn it back on again, it won't start.

I noticed that while the ignition is tripped, everything is off in the 
car -- except the cooling fans.  More often than not, the solution is 
to pull open the relay compartment and pull out the cooling fan relay; 
the car starts right up then.

Anyone else seen this?  Shouldn't the fans also be off when you turn 
the ignition so the starter can get enough power?

I've also noticed that on the other cars I've owned, the cooling fans 
stay on when the car is off if it is still too hot.  I notice this does 
not happen on the DeLorean; the fans go off with the car.  Is this 
normal?

Also, my relays seem to get quite hot, so it looks like I'll be 
tightening the sockets this weekend.

Thanks!

-- Joe




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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 19:11:51 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: how to clean waterstains from glass?

Sounds weird but try a carbonated soda (I use Coke).  Keep in mind it is an
acid and dissolves stuff (coloring in it could stain some items too)so don't
let it sit on anything it could damage.  I have no idea if it will work on
your situation but I have used it to clean that haze on the outside of the
windshield and it works when none of the regular "cleaners" would.

I usually apply it with a cloth or green scrubbie and don't leave it on
long.  Then rinse the car well so the soda doesn't damage anything.

Ed
10541



>
> I am wondering if anyone has any really good tips for getting rid of
stains in my side glass



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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 01:12:10 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_home.nl>
Subject: Swapping Clutch on a 5 speed?

I need to swap my Clutch as af ther 22 years and 41000mi
it's slipping under mild to heavy acceleration.
Having access to a car-lift, is it possible to
do this without removing the engine from the car?

I've only got 3 weeks untill our National Clubs'
Fall Drive and I'd be embarassed to have to show
up in my Nissan because of my DeLorean not running...

JAN van de Wouw

Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...
Shifting Expectations...   Driving a Nissan...

DMC-12 "Dagger" since Sep. 2000
100NX "Saphire" since Nov. 2002
-------------------------------





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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 19:27:41 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Thinking of putting CD Player in Driver Comparment....

In a message dated 9/2/03 7:54:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
chapelhow_at_dml_hotmail.com writes:

> I am looking at the same setup in the UK, not many manufacturers 
> still use the FM modulator system since the quality of the sound 
> depends on your original head unit/speakers.  They seem keen for you 
> to change the head unit at the same time :-(
> 


Also remember that even though it is physically wired to your reciever, the 
cd playback will only be as good as a perfectly tuned radio station.

for some, that is not good enough, but it is much easier to revert to stock 
if you need to.  unfortunately you will find quickly that replacing or 
upgrading only one component in your stereo will lead to complete system replacement 
and upgrading for good quality sound.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 20:13:56 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Delorean in a song at Pigeon Forge NEW

Well its time I start getting the entertainment set up for Pigeon Forge.  As 
of today we have an artist/performer Joe Charter to perform at the show with 
his Title song from his CD entitiled what other than "DELOREAN"  

We will have this listed on the web page in a few weeks so you can see the 
CD.

So if you want to see Joe Perform and hear a song about our cars called 

DELOREAN you will have to come 

More information to follow

Thanks

Ken
DeLoreancarshow.com
<A HREF="http://deloreancarshow.com">http://deloreancarshow.com</A>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 05:06:18 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: My New DMC - Help!

I'll jump on the Grady bandwagon too.

Have you ever been to PJ Grady's?  I've only been once, but I was
absolutely AMAZED.  There were Deloreans of all sorts from greater new
england parked there.  I asked how many D's PJ's owned.  I think they
said there was one D on the lot that was theirs.  

There were like 20-something other D's there, waiting for work to be
done.  Rob said that there is a year waiting list for getting your car
worked on.

Just trying to put some things in perspective...

Jim
1537

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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 07:32:39 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: My New DMC - Help!

>but it was a SCREAMING noise.. a loud "AAA-OOOOOO" a SCREAM! ..coming
>from somewhere inside this car!

If the scream was inside the car, then I would guess it is the interior fan.
If condensation has been in there (which it does) then it is probably rusty
and needs to be lubed up. Five screws and it drop into your hand and you can
clean it up, vacuum the chamber out, and lube it up.
Double check that the drain line works... blow some air down it and have
someone check it. It should drain behind the right front tire.




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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 20:19:12 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Cleaner/Sealer

In a message dated 9/3/03 7:13:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Michael.Fischer_at_dml_dittybase.com writes:

> Howdy All,
> 
>   I've got an old bottle of DMC Cleaner/Sealer that I got from
> Houston a while back ... But there's no label on it ..I was wondering if
> anyone has any tips on the application of it.  (Or if I should even use
> it.)
> 
> Thanks
> Mike
> Vin 17106

My experience with this stuff has been mixed.  to apply it, make sure your 
car is extra clean (as in, wash it, dry it, then apply).  take a soft terrycloth 
towel or a cloth diaper and put a moderate amount on the cloth.  apply it to 
the stainless with the grain in one direction only. spread it pretty thin and 
work it in.  after it is applied over, say, the whole hood, take a new fresh 
towel and buff it clean to remove the streaks.  turn the buffer towel over many 
times - it will get black and won't do a good job if it has cleaner on it.  
to do the whole car, it takes a long time and you have to do a good job or the 
car looks spotty and streaked.  but if you do a good job you will be amazed at 
the results.

i usually apply the sealer for big car shows and that's it.  if your car gets 
wet from rain or anything it tends to streak the cleaner and it looks 
TERRIBLE.  for this reason i avoid using the sealer except for extra special 
occasions.  otherwise, a simple DMC shampoo wash and towel dry is almost as good.

Andy


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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 18:50:49 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re:My New DMC - Help!

I set a budget with Rob when I took my D in, and he adhered to it 
scrupulously.  Any 20 plus year old car repair can be a can of worms, especially when you 
do the repairs as they should be done, instead of with bubble gum and coat 
hangers.  When he reached my limit he called to say what he'd done, to tell me 
what else he saw, and ask if I wanted him to do anything else while he had it.  
I did have him do a few more things.  
I've only read one other person on the DML gripe about Rob, and in that case, 
the owner of the car claimed it was pristine and yet Rob was telling him he 
needed all this stuff done. (BTW, does a guy with a backlog of several months 
of work need to lie to make more work?  I don't think so!)  As it happens, I 
recognized the vin number since I had seen and test drove that same car... and 
didn't buy it.  It was not pristine in my opinion. Nice car in many ways, but 
not a car that you couldn't or shouldn't need to spend any money on.  I don't 
know the prior owner of your car, or what was said when he took it in.  But if 
he just showed up at Rob's with no appointment and asked for Rob to work on it 
when he could- I have to wonder- did he notice A.) How many cars were on the 
property, B.) how many (or rather, how few) mechanics were working on cars, 
and C.) that most looked like they needed more than an oil change?  I'm sure Rob 
never said, "come back Tuesday and we'll have 'er all fixed up!"  He'd have 
to put it ahead of dozens of other cars.  I made my appointment months ahead, 
but took it in during the off-the-road season when everybody wants work done.  
It was there 3 months, but it was well worth it. No car, no matter how much 
money you spend on it, can be guaranteed to never develop any future problems. 
Sounds like maybe the previous owner figured, "hey, for what I paid, it should 
run great... forever!!!" One last thought: I recently had my building's AC 
unit serviced at work.  It didn't take months, only a day and a half with one 
technician, a helper, and a few parts, but it cost me three grand! Ouch. Rob's 
prices are NOT out of line for what he does. And since he does it right, it's 
worth the wait. If you want same day service from PJ Grady, just call. You'll 
get free repair advice from Rob personally, and Debbie will immediately ship out 
any parts you order.  Then fix it yourself!  'Nuf said.
Wayne
11174 


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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 01:22:24 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans and the ignition

It sounds like your relay is sticking. The circuit that starts the 
relay is activated with the ignition switch but the wire going to 
the relay to run the fans is "hot at all times". Get a heavy duty 
relay from John Hervey (40 amps). Both fans take a full 22 amps at 
run (11 amps each) and nearly 40 amps to start them. That is a lot 
to take away from the starter circuit - especially if your battery 
is low or marginal.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> 
> I have a curious problem with my DeLorean:
> 
> Let's say I take the car out for the day.  During my trip it gets 
hot 
> enough that the cooling fans come on.  At this point, if you turn 
the 
> car off and then try to turn it back on again, it won't start.
> 
> I noticed that while the ignition is tripped, everything is off in 
the 
> car -- except the cooling fans.  More often than not, the solution 
is 
> to pull open the relay compartment and pull out the cooling fan 
relay; 
> the car starts right up then.
> 
> Anyone else seen this?  Shouldn't the fans also be off when you 
turn 
> the ignition so the starter can get enough power?
> 
> I've also noticed that on the other cars I've owned, the cooling 
fans 
> stay on when the car is off if it is still too hot.  I notice this 
does 
> not happen on the DeLorean; the fans go off with the car.  Is this 
> normal?
> 
> Also, my relays seem to get quite hot, so it looks like I'll be 
> tightening the sockets this weekend.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -- Joe




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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 00:33:50 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Re: Swapping Clutch on a 5 speed?

Jan - You needn't remove the engine from the car, but you do need to 
remove the transmission.  With a proper transmission jack, you should 
be able to get the transmission out in a couple of hours.  After 
re-facing the flywheel, and installing the new clutch set (clutch 
disk, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bushing are advised), 
it takes about three hours to get it back in with an alignment tool 
and some strong help.  There are a few upgrades that are advised while 
the transmission is out of the car ... crossover pipe insulation, 
starter insulation (blanket is better than that goofy stock shield, 
IMHO), and a thorough check of the transmission mounts, motor mounts, 
and clutch slave cylinder.  My original clutch lasted 65K miles, which 
was great as far as I was concerned, considering the number of parades 
I had been in.  You can also change the distributor cap and rotor at 
this point if you want to (from underneath).  I hope this helps.  I 
can give you a step-by-step if you think you need it.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1 - with Centerforce clutch!


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jan van de Wouw <delorean_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I need to swap my Clutch as af ther 22 years and 41000mi
> it's slipping under mild to heavy acceleration.
> Having access to a car-lift, is it possible to
> do this without removing the engine from the car?





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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 20:06:33 -0700
From: "Dale Schaub" <DaleSchaub_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Recover Dash and instrument hood or buy NOS?

I need to replace my dash and instrument hood or have them recovered. Has anyone had their dashes recovered by www.justdashes.com?  How is their quality?

I will not save any money by going with www.justdashes; however,  I am just concerned about NOS. I haven't had much luck with NOS. I replaced my seat covers two years ago with NOS (someone out of Canada--not one of our suppliers) and a year later they looked worst then my original seats. That was $1,200 down the drain.

Has anyone replace their dashes and instrument hood with NOS?
How are they wearing? In Arizona sun?

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