From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1656
Date: Sunday, September 07, 2003 11:38 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Toll Booth Window
From: "dmc121" <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>

2. Secoc "Cruise-In" Registration Incentive Deadline
From: "heningerandassoc" <heningerandassoc_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: best way to flush cooling system?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

4. Re: best way to flush cooling system?
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>

5. RE: door vapor barriers...necessary?
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

6. RE: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

7. New to DML
From: "dracula2893" <franklinairshow_at_dml_aol.com>

8. 4th Delorean Fall Foliage Tour
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>

9. Re: DeLorean will not start
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

10. Re: DeLorean will not start
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

11. Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>

12. Re: Cooling fans and the ignition
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

13. Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>

14. Re: Cooling fans and the ignition
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

15. Re: Delorean Question
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

16. Re: escaping after a rollover
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com

17. Rough day on the Rally
From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>





Message: 1
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 22:22:34 -0000
From: "dmc121" <dmc1219_at_dml_one.net>
Subject: Toll Booth Window

What's the trick to reinstalling the window?  I'm rebuilding a door &
have gotten to the point of installing the toll booth window glass &
it just doesn't seem to want to go easily.  I can get the nylon guides
started on the metal runners but can't seem to get the top ends to
align.  Most suggestions accepted.




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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 22:44:36 -0000
From: "heningerandassoc" <heningerandassoc_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Secoc "Cruise-In" Registration Incentive Deadline

Gentle Reminder,
    Southeastern DeLoreans Owners Club "Cruise-In",scheduled for 
Sept. 20-21 at Lake Lanier Rowing Venue and Road Atlanta, early 
registration incentive deadline is Sunday Sept.07,03. Over $2000.00 
incentives--you cannot afford not to be there. Also added attractions 
include the Gainesville Symphony Orchestra will provide entertainment 
during the "Candle Light Dinner On The Dock" Saturday evening plus 
there will be a review of Modified DeLoreans including Steve Wynns'  
High Performance Engine, Oliver and Terry's Back To The Future 
DeLorean, Bob and Lynda Zilla DeLorean Electronics machine as well as 
Ron and Cheryl's Super "D". This will be a fun event. We hope to see 
you there. For details see  www.specialtauto.com/sedoc Your SEDOC 
friends in Atlanta Georgia.
  




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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 00:32:00 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: best way to flush cooling system?

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm

dmcorlando2003 wrote:

>I want to flush my cooling system and replace the anti-freeze.  Wat 
>is the best way to do this....besides taking it to a mechanic (LOL)
>  
>






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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 01:13:41 -0000
From: "Stephen Card" <stephen_at_dml_procomroofing.com>
Subject: Re: best way to flush cooling system?

Check out the current issue (summer 2003) of Gullwing Magazine for a 
step-by-step by Bruce Benson, complete with pictures.
Stephen

> I want to flush my cooling system and replace the anti-freeze. 




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 21:49:12 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: door vapor barriers...necessary?

I'm not sure, but I think you can re-stick the existing stuff with a hot-air
gun or hair dryer.
Worth a try, anyway.

Let us know....

-----Original Message-----
From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty_at_dml_psu.edu]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 11:20 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] door vapor barriers...necessary?


Hi there,

In the midst of a day-project adjusting my door latches and locks, I
removed the plastic vapor barriers from both doors.  Now it's time to
put the door back together and it seems as though the sticky stuff
that was holding it on is no longer sticky.  How necessary are these
things?  I don't plan on ever driving my car in the rain, and my door
trim panels are all backed with plastic (not cardboard like some cars
which I understand could warp from moisture).

So how necessary are they, and if they are necessary, what is the
sticky stuff called that I would need?

thanks,

Matt
#1604



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moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 21:51:01 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)

Look into the air valve in the intake hose. It adjusts the mixture or hot
and cold air; it may be starving the engine for cold air until it heats up.
I (and many others) removed mine totally so that it only breathes fresh air
from the fender.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rustproof [mailto:Rustproof_at_dml_prodigy.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 11:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)


I would like to thank everyone again for all their help. Here's what
happened...I re-adjusted the CO to 14.5:1. Cleaned the entire throttle
assembly. Rechecked for vacuum leaks. Replaced all the injector seals.
Checked the lambda system and idle system for proper operation and both are
working within specification. Timing is perfect. Replaced O2 sensor just for
fun. After all this, the idle is very stable once the car warms up.
Performance has greatly improved.  (once warmed to operating temperature
everything runs like a new car) But...when she's cold she sputters, idles
poorly near 600 rpms rumbling like a Harley and shaking like my grandmother.
She stalls if you attempt to depress the accelerator. After about 5 minutes
of warm-up, you would think it was a different vehicle. Smooth a silk. Could
this be related to the warm-up regulator? Cold start valve? She does start
just by simply turning the key. No need to give it 1/4 pedal. She always
starts warm or cold. I't just a little annoying having to sit there for 5
minutes before you can move. Any suggestions?
Rustproof
vin#1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:37 PM
Subject: [DML] Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)


> It sounds to me like your Lambda system just died. Troubleshoot to
> find the reason (very common for the relay to die). Since the Lambda
> wasn't adding fuel you compensated by going overly rich with the
> mixture screw. You should hear the frequency valve buzz whenever the
> engine is running. You are almost there, get the Lambda running again
> and it sounds to me like you have it just about right! (Of course
> readjust the mixture screw with the Lambda running).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> > Having taken all the advice I could get from the list and the
> archives, I
> > have attempted to set up both the CO mixture as well as the CIS
> idle. This
> > was fiddled with by the previous owner and never properly reset. I
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 02:05:03 -0000
From: "dracula2893" <franklinairshow_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: New to DML

Hey,
Finally got on the mailing list. Met some of you at the Memphis Car 
show last year. I have the Chevy V8 DeLorean. Hope to see you all at 
Pigeon Forge.

Kyle
#2893




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 02:55:24 -0000
From: "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: 4th Delorean Fall Foliage Tour

My apologies for not posting this information sooner.
(Computer crash and burn, new job, new house…..) 

Yes the Fourth Annual DeLorean Fall Foliage Tour is October 18 & 19 
in Wildwood NJ.
We will be staying at the Ivanhoe Motel www.ivanhoemotel.com we have 
a DeLorean rate of $75 (+ applicable taxes) Please make your 
reservations ASAP.

I am still working out all the fine details and I will post them as 
soon as I can.

The Itinerary will most likely include the following:
Car show/display on the boardwalk.
Sat dinner at a local restaurant. 
Bar B Q Lunch.
Go car races?
DeLorean Caravan if I can get someone to set one up.

If think you will attend please e-mail me at  turbodmc(at)hotmail.com so 
I can start building an e-mail list and send you all the updates and 
info.
I hope to have registration forms in the next few weeks.

Or you can call me at 516 676-9198

Regards,

Mike D
Vin 3113
NY LIC. DLORIANN







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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 04:02:25 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: DeLorean will not start

To start the car you need gas, air, and spark. You can assume it is
getting air and you made sure it is getting gas, now you need to see
if it has spark. Pull off a spark plug wire, stick a piece of wire or
an old spark plug in the wire, rest it against the motor and watch it
while you have someone try to start the motor. If you have spark then
go back to a fuel system problem. If there is no spark check the
connections on the white ballast resistors on the firewall on the left
side. It could also be a bad coil or more likely a bad pick-up coil in
the distributer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
> I cannot get my DeLorean to start.  I thought the fuel pump was bad, 
> however when I jumped the RPM relay it was working.  I then thought 
> the RPM relay was bad so I installed the relay updates, however that 
> has not fixed the problem.
> 
> The Inertia switch is closed, so that is not the problem, either.  
> What should I do next?
> 
> Greg




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 13:17:56 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: DeLorean will not start

Start with the Diagnostic Chart on page 126 of the Technical 
Information Manual. That is really the only way to go through the 
steps . Otherwise you will end up jumping all over.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all:
> 
> I cannot get my DeLorean to start.  I thought the fuel pump was 
bad, 
> however when I jumped the RPM relay it was working.  I then 
thought 
> the RPM relay was bad so I installed the relay updates, however 
that 
> has not fixed the problem.
> 
> The Inertia switch is closed, so that is not the problem, either.  
> What should I do next?
> 
> Greg




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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 23:40:16 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark_at_dml_buffalochips.org>
Subject: Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?

According to the DML archives, in case of a roll-over you should be able to
just push hard on the door and it will act as a lever and open far enough
for you to crawl through the opening. YMMV. I have no desire to test this
theory, but the shape and size of the door and the position of the hinges
makes it look like this should work.

Mark N
VIN 6820

At 09:10 PM 9/6/2003 +0100, you wrote:
<snip>
>
>So, all this poses the question: what DO we do in our DeLoreans to get 
>out in the event of a roll? The side windows are glued to the inside 
>edge of the door frame, and the windscreen is well bonded, and screwed 
>down. Even I'm not thin enough to get out the tollbooth window :-)
>
>Martin




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 13:14:07 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans and the ignition

It sounds like you are looking at the circuit breaker. I was 
refering to the RELAY. See the diagram in the Technical Information 
Manual. FanZilla will probably take care of your problems though.

Harold McElraft - 3354

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> >  It sounds like your relay is sticking. The circuit that starts 
the
> >  relay is activated with the ignition switch but the wire going 
to
> >  the relay to run the fans is "hot at all times". Get a heavy 
duty
> >  relay from John Hervey (40 amps). Both fans take a full 22 amps 
at
> >  run (11 amps each) and nearly 40 amps to start them. That is a 
lot
> >  to take away from the starter circuit - especially if your 
battery
> >  is low or marginal.
> 
> I checked and found I do have a 40 amp relay in there, which is a 
> replacement for another 40 amp that we thought was faulty last 
week.
> 
> I noticed that if I have the AC on (which causes the fans to run) 
when 
> I start the car and the car is cool, the fans turn off so the 
starter 
> can get power.
> 
> However, if the fans are running because the car is hot, the fans 
stay 
> on when trying to start, and the starter won't turn over.
> 
> My FanZilla should be here early next week, so maybe I'll get 
lucky and 
> that will fix the problem.  But I'm also considering putting a 
> transistor on the control line to the fan relay from the starter 
relay, 
> automatically disabling the fans entirely when trying to start the 
car. 
>   Should be a pretty straight-forward fix.  In any case, I have 
some 
> cooling issues (need a new radiator) which is why this is coming 
up in 
> the first place.
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> -- Joe




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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 12:58:24 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)

Is the delay valve installed in the correct direction? It is the 
plastic vacuum valve located at the control pressure regulator. 
The "Dist" side goes on the vacuum supply side.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> I would like to thank everyone again for all their help. Here's 
what
> happened...I re-adjusted the CO to 14.5:1. Cleaned the entire 
throttle
> assembly. Rechecked for vacuum leaks. Replaced all the injector 
seals.
> Checked the lambda system and idle system for proper operation and 
both are
> working within specification. Timing is perfect. Replaced O2 
sensor just for
> fun. After all this, the idle is very stable once the car warms up.
> Performance has greatly improved.  (once warmed to operating 
temperature
> everything runs like a new car) But...when she's cold she 
sputters, idles
> poorly near 600 rpms rumbling like a Harley and shaking like my 
grandmother.
> She stalls if you attempt to depress the accelerator. After about 
5 minutes
> of warm-up, you would think it was a different vehicle. Smooth a 
silk. Could
> this be related to the warm-up regulator? Cold start valve? She 
does start
> just by simply turning the key. No need to give it 1/4 pedal. She 
always
> starts warm or cold. I't just a little annoying having to sit 
there for 5
> minutes before you can move. Any suggestions?
> Rustproof
> vin#1559
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:37 PM
> Subject: [DML] Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
> 
> 
> > It sounds to me like your Lambda system just died. Troubleshoot 
to
> > find the reason (very common for the relay to die). Since the 
Lambda
> > wasn't adding fuel you compensated by going overly rich with the
> > mixture screw. You should hear the frequency valve buzz whenever 
the
> > engine is running. You are almost there, get the Lambda running 
again
> > and it sounds to me like you have it just about right! (Of course
> > readjust the mixture screw with the Lambda running).
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Rustproof" <Rustproof_at_dml_p...> 
wrote:
> > > Having taken all the advice I could get from the list and the
> > archives, I
> > > have attempted to set up both the CO mixture as well as the CIS
> > idle. This
> > > was fiddled with by the previous owner and never properly 
reset. I
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please 
address:
> > moderators_at_dml_d...
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 04:10:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans and the ignition

I think your cooling fan circuit is wired in a non-standard way. It
should not operate as you describe. I doubt installing a Fanzilla will
"fix" this. Fanzilla is meant to operate on a Delorean that has NOT
had this circuit modified. Pull the fan fail relay or whatever you
have in there out. Stick a jumper in there a' la' fan fail bypass and
test it. The fans should run ONLY when the key is on and when you
jumper the otterstadt switch OR turn on a properly functioning A/C
system. I am guessing you do not mean a 40 amp RELAY. Instead you mean
circuit breaker? If your car is an eary vin you might need a wiring
modifacation in the starter circuit. Look it up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Joe Angell <jangell_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> >  It sounds like your relay is sticking. The circuit that starts the
> >  relay is activated with the ignition switch but the wire going to
> >  the relay to run the fans is "hot at all times". Get a heavy duty
> >  relay from John Hervey (40 amps). Both fans take a full 22 amps at





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 04:11:40 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Delorean Question

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Dan McNasby <dan_mcnasby_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> 
> I am very interested in buying a Delorean but would like to know
what are the relative merits of the DeLorean over the Following Cars
(basically, why buy the delorean over the following) are:
> 
> 1.  1994 Dodge Viper RT/10
> 
> 2.  1995 Acura NSX
> 
>  Why is the DeLorean better to own than the above cars? 
> 
> Thanks for the input!
> 
> Dan

Do NOT buy a DeLorean! Nor should you buy a Viper, an NSX, nor any
other sportscar for that matter! Sit down, figure out what your needs
are, consult a few car sites, and pick up a nice Toyota, or Ford
Taurus, and live happily ever after.

If you have to ask this question, then you don't need to know the
answer. Why? You've asked a question that no one can answer, but you.
A sports car no matter what the marque is a reflection of the person
who is driving it, since certain types of cars tend to attract certain
types of people (in other words, no one can tell you who you are).
Sportscars are not a common, run of the mill family car, or utility
vehicle. You can't simply choose a sports car because it "fits your
needs". You have to literally 'click' with it. People don't see
minivans driving down the street, and say, "Oh, wow! I'd LOVE to own
one of those!" No. They buy vehicles like that because because they
best suit their needs.

A sports car is different. You buy one (well, at least you SHOULD buy
one) because you want it, not because you need it. Performance stats,
social status, age, and other factors are all good. But they shouldn't
really be the determining factor. Nor will they be for someone who
truly enjoys the car.

Now am I saying that you need to be a "hard-core" person totally
devoted to a marque to own a particular car in that marque? No. You
can casually own a sports car, drive it occasionally, and still enjoy
it's ownership. It helps to get the full experience, but isn't
nessisary. But your question seems to be one that trys to err on the
side of caution. Noting wrong with that at all, except that it's not
something that really applies to hobby cars. Technicly, anyone of the
cars you speak of have the same potential for pleasure and angst for
an owner. Although they make take different paths to get there. You
may have as much fun simply crusing a DeLorean that you would taking a
Viper to the track. And you could just as easily be hit hard
financially restoring a DeLorean, as you would replacing a destroyed
tranaxle on an NSX. So one car isn't really going to be better, or "a
safer bet" than another.

Something that I'm curious about is why you ask the question that you
have. The Viper and NSX have many more things in common with each
other, than the DeLorean does with them both. Both are fast,
high-powered, modern super cars. They come from well established
companies which still offer factory support, they're far newer,
powerful, and still recieve allot of positive press. The DeLorean in
many respects is an opposite. But something has attracted you to it.
Try to think about why.

It's impossible to answer why one sportscar is better than another
when looking to own one for personal enjoyment. The real question that
you need answered is which of these cars is the best one for you?
Research all of them both from data on the internet, and by talking
directly with other owners of these cars. See what they say. You'll
never find out which one is "better" than another. So don't make that
answer your goal. Find out what you can about all the cars, and see
which one best clicks with you on what levels, and on which weak
points you're willing to compromise (ie. a DeLorean is a bit slower
than a Viper, but has seats that are as comfortable as recliners and
is VERY ergonomic).

You've heard many others here talk about the better points of DeLorean
ownership, such as parts availability/pricing, the hugh support
network in conjunction with it, etc... So I'm sure that you've already
gotten the idea that the DeLorean is hardly an "orphan" car that has
been abandonded. But I wouldn't consider the DeLorean a "cult" car per
se, any more than I would the Corvette, or even the VW Beetle marques
are. All have their devoted, and hard-core owners, as do the DeLorean.
It's just that due to our far lower production numbers, and higher
level of obscurity, DeLoreans tend to be more sought after by devoted
owners seeking the car outright, rather than picked up by casual
passers-by/shoppers who spot the car for sale on a car lot, or
someone's front lawn.

On the flip side though, there is NOTHING like driving a DeLorean! It
may not be a supercar, but there is something about it that sets it
apart. Braking, handling, acellerating, stop & go traffic, open
highways, or simply standing still: the DeLorean has a very confident
feel to it. And for some reason, it is one that will draw you in. I
wouldn't call it fun, so much as I would extremly satisfying.
Refreshing in the summer, and quite cozy in the winter, it is a car
that loves to hit the pavement as much as you will. It is plain and
simple, a car that was engineered for someone who loves to drive.
Drive it once, and you'll want to keep going.

But know this. The full experience of owning/maintaining/driving a
DeLorean is like no other car. Whatever problems you run into, no
matter how large, or small, will always pale when compared to the
reward of driving the car. The pride, and satisfaction is
undescribable. But that is the one thing you would need to experience
for yourself...

Whatever your choice is in the end, good luck to you with it. And make
sure that it's going to be a car that you'll have fun with! :)

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 00:38:16 EDT
From: deloreanernst_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: escaping after a rollover

In a message dated 9/6/2003 6:47:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk writes:


> all this poses the question: what DO we do in our DeLoreans to get 
> out in the event of a roll? The side windows are glued to the inside 
> edge of the door frame, and the windscreen is well bonded, and screwed 
> down

I think you're supposed to be able to kick out the windshield from inside. I 
don't recall anything but glue holding it in. Also... wasn't there some 
discussion awhile ago on the list to the effect that if you were upside down, which 
virtually never happens in a D, you could open the door and it would have the 
effect of levering the car up enough for your escape.  Anybody ever tried it?  
Of course some people carry a "life hammer" just in case.
Wayne 11174 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2003 13:40:53 -0000
From: "schab932000" <schab932000_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Rough day on the Rally

I was 1 of 17 cars that showed up for the Ausitn Healy Rally 
before the big car show on the 4th of October. 

I was the only Delorean on the course and with years of Rally 
experience, felt I would be a strong contender with my dad as a 
co-pilot.

Trouble began midway through. I was at a stop light and couldn't 
get into first without some severe grinding. I knew something 
was up, because the clutch pedal didn't feel right. I turned the car 
off and put it in first, then started back up and went to a lot to 
check things out. Everything looked good. Master cylinder was 
full, no leaking I could see, but there did appear to be some fluid 
around the cap. I wipped it clean, and replaced the cap. I got 
back in the car and pumped the clutch a few tiimes and started it 
up. It seams to work fine, but throughout the Rally, I felt the same 
issue with the clutch pedal. It wasn't giving the same resistance, 
but not not all the time. When this happened, it didn't shift 
properly. I should note it wasn't just a first gear issue. From a 
dead stop, I couldn't shift into any gears without it grinding.

I had to turn the car off several times to get into first during the 
rally. A few notes: Clutch and throwout bearing was replaced with 
17,000 miles. It now has 24,000. The hydrolic line is braided 
stainless steel, not plastic. 

Please provide advice. 

Now you would think one failure would be enough, right...

Not so. We decided to make a pit stop in the middle on Oswego 
near a farmers field. We both go out and returned to the car. I 
turned the key and the engine cranked fine, but wouldn't start. I'm 
guessing the fuel pump since I didn't smell any gas, and I didn't 
hear a buzzing noise from the fill cap when I turned the key.

Help again!

That did it, after waiting for the engine to cool (thinking it was a 
hot start issue, with no results), the farmer came by and lent me 
his cell phone to call the tow truck. Thanks mister farmer!

I never finished the rally of course, but I have another one coming 
up at the end of this month if I can it back on the road with all of 
your help.

Thanks, Pat vin 5443




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