From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1678
Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 6:16 AM

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There are 9 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Starter issues
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

2. Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

3. Re: Livin' the dream in 11472.
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>

4. New site for DART
From: "Ryan" <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>

5. Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Modified Sunstar DTO PICS
From: "zdmcman" <zdmcman_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. RE: Re: Front hood ground
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

8. Tires
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

9. amazing vacuum discovery
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 03:21:12 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Starter issues

Yes, it could be the starter solenoid. Other possiblites include a bad
battery, dirty connections between the starter and battery, and a worn
out starter. You really need to get a voltmeter on the solenoid and
see what is going on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, id <ionicdesign_at_dml_e...> wrote:
> I just started to have this problem today and i think i know what
the problem is but i
> would like a second opinion.
> 
> When i try to start my car sometimes i just get a click from the 




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 03:25:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!

Get your battery load tested. I have seen batteries fail in such a
manner. It seems like there is a bad internal connection. Also check
all of the "big" connections between the battery and the starter. Next
time it won't start jump the battery with a known good one. Take one
of the new battery jump start packs with you on the Fall Tour!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> This is REALLY strange!  3 times in the past few months, my car has
> refused to start.  See what you think...
>  
> The first time was a Saturday morning late spring:  It had run fine for
> weeks, and was in the garage. It would not start.  2 hours later, (and
> 




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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 23:28:27 EDT (-0400)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_tycomsystems.com>
Subject: Re: Livin' the dream in 11472.

twin engine... can you explain?

> Hello.
> 
> I'm too excited to shut up about my car, I'm sorry.
> Many of you know that I've been making a twin engine Delorean for the 
> past several years.  Well, it's finally running, and street legal, 
> and now that I get to drive it on the street, I know what I've been 
> missing.  I get a kick out of all the BTTF jokes.  During one of my 
> first rides, a small coolant leak caused a small cloud of steam to 
> rise off the radiator in the back while I was parking it.  A friend 
> of mine later told me that he heard someone remark:  "That's normal.  
> It's just the plutonium."
> I hope I never get tired of that kind of humor, though I think my 
> favorite one-liner so far is:  "You're a maniac, what else is there 
> to say?"
> 
> Anyway, I'm glad to be living the dream, finally, and will continue 
> to drive it to get the bugs out until it's too cold here, at which 
> time I'll do the work necessary to get the second engine running in 
> concert with the first.
> 
> I've got a few more pictures to take, then I'll update the website.
> 
> Rick Gendreau
> Livin' the dream in 11472, the 10.2 liter Delorean.



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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 04:39:42 -0000
From: "Ryan" <boy1der18_at_dml_aol.com>
Subject: New site for DART

Hey all!

Just wanted to let you know that I'm moving to a new domain name for 
DART.  The new site will be www.deloreanautomotive.com, and the old 
site is no longer working.  You may continue to contact me at 
rcrg_13_at_dml_hotmail.com for any questions or orders for the INDIGLO Dash 
Kits.

Ryan Gould

DeLorean Automotive Racing Technology




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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 05:10:07 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Bypass? No...I think my car need therapy!

Practice your troubleshooting techniques now, BEFORE Fall Foliage:

Remember -- there's a reason behind everything (and also remember:
every problem has a solution).

Start by jumping RPM relay. Insert a jumper between brown wire and
white/purple. This should cause pump to spin. If it doesn't, you've
narrowed problem to pump power supply or ground. Test for power at
brown wire (fuse 7 could be blown or not making contact). Test for
ground at pump itself.

If pump spins, test for resistance on air sensor plate. Plate should
not be totally floppy, and you should hear fuel literally squeak past
piston when raised. If air sensor plate behaves abnormally you're
probably not getting enough pressure to crack injectors. Could be bad
regulator in fuel distributor. If check valve on pump is bad system
could be full of air. Let pump spin for several minutes and see if
system pressurizes.

Make sure idle speed motor hasn't stuck closed. Use accelerator pedal
to open throttle plates. Don't bother pumping pedal -- no accelerator
pump. Engine could be slightly flooded from testing air sensor plate
above (you'll know if car finally starts and emits a cloud of white
smoke).

Test for ignition spark. Is a stretch, but center terminal on ignition
distributor is reachable behind/under fuel distributor. Pull coil
wire, push boot back to expose metal contacts, and place very near but
not touching the block. As engine turns over you should see high
voltage spark jump to block. Spark should be blueish or white, not
orange (low voltage). If you don't have a spark, start checking
connections from coil towards ballast resistors. White wire is primary
ignition voltage -- should be 8-10 volts. If you have a spark but is
weak problem could be starting relay -- run temporary wire from jump
start post to positive side of coil.

Note spark test can also be performed with a timing light (just look
for bulb to flash) or an ignition probe.

If you've got fuel and spark but car still won't start, check for
final delivery at the head. I usually use cylinder #3 because it's
easiest to access. Pop injector out of head, place in a coke bottle or
some such, and perform air sensor plate test. You should see injector
spray. Likewise pull spark plug wire, ground next to block (terminal
recessed pretty deep -- may have to extend beyond boot with a
screwdriver), and look for spark. Or test with light/probe.

Make sure you don't have a catastrophic vacuum leak. Supply line to
idle speed motor is 3/4" -- quite a lot of unmetered air if it's come
loose. Make sure cold start tube still seated firmly on manifold (is
visible between cylinders #1 and #2.

Make sure spark advance diaphragm isn't getting vacuum while starting
engine.

Since car misbehaves cold and hot, doesn't seem to be classic "hot
start problem," but is good to practice -- plug warm up regulator
(grey plug) into cold start tube. This will cause cold start valve to
spray extra fuel into engine no matter its temperature. If engine
starts, quickly disconnect cold start tube before engine floods.

While you're practicing -- try using a jumper to turn on headlights
("dipped beam") at relay socket. Is row closest to passenger seat,
relay closest to center of car. Locate two parallel terminals rotated
90 degress from other three -- line in is closest to outside of
socket. Line out is directly opposite on other side of socket (middle
of 3 remaining terminals). If you jump line in to line out, headlights
should come on. This will get you around a broken dash switch.

Try using same jumper to make cooling fans spin. First, pull
connectors off otterstat and jump together. Fans should spin as soon
as car energized (will get you around a broken otterstat). If fans
don't spin, leave otterstat jumped and jump relay just like headlights
above (same row, second from outside end). If fans STILL don't come on
you may have problems with whatever's plugged into fan fail socket
(next to fan relay), circuit breaker, or fans themselves.

Car has two mombo relays next to RPM relay -- Main and Accessory. Are
identical. Since car will run with main relay only, is possible to
swap with accessory if main relay fails on the road. Accessory
adjacent to RPM relay.

Should be enough to keep you busy for a while. Is best to practice
things like this BEFORE they're needed. Most car problems can be 
overcome temporarily.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> This is REALLY strange!  3 times in the past few months, my car has
> refused to start.  See what you think...
>  
> The first time was a Saturday morning late spring:  It had run fine for
> weeks, and was in the garage. It would not start.  2 hours later, (and
> much tinkering) it started fine.  At the time I attributed it to a loose
> relay (it appeared to start after I checked all the relays behind the
> passenger seat)
>  
> 2nd time middle of summer:  I was out driving for about a good hour.
> Stopped at my brothers house, and the car would not start again 40
> minutes later.   After about an hour or more of tinkering with
> everything, it appeared to work better after having jiggled the intertia
> switch wire.  It stalled several times just out of his driveway.  The
> inertia switch plug seemed to be the key..jiggle one way, car dies.
> some more, car runs.  I found a good "working spot" and stuffed the wire
> in place behind the intertia switch box.   Car ran fine and continued to
> do so.
>  
> This past saturday:   Car was in garage, had not been used for 2 weeks.
> WOuld not start.  messed with inertia switch wire...no dice.  (posted
> about ugly plug on the end of the switch, etc...)  Decided to give it a
> rest unitl i read info on the  DML.   I was going to attempt to bypass
> the intertia switch tonight, but first i decided to try starting it.
> IT WORKS!
>  
> Keep in mind.  NO bumps, vibration, nothing different had happened to
> the car.
>  
> I think it needs Psycho Therapy for having turned 20 or something!
> Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?  I dont want to get stuck
> someplace (the the DMA fall tour) with a finiky car!
>  
> Kevin Abato
> Vin# 16680
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:28:47 -0000
From: "zdmcman" <zdmcman_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Modified Sunstar DTO PICS

I posted some pics of my modified sunstar delorean, it will be at 
the up coming delorean show, since i can't bring my real d....so if 
anyone would like to see modified pics of my sunstar model go under 
the photos section....under modified sunstar pics.....Please tell me 
what you guys think....thanxs...

MODS-
-1965 Pontiac GTO ENGINE
-Recaro Seats
-7 speaker audio syestem w/ amps and dvd 
-side exhast
-nitro bottle
-dmc embordierd floor mats
-tach
-cobra wheels w/brembo brakes

I was bored so i did this project, well pleas tell me what you 
think...thanx

Johnny B
#5458




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:36:10 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: Re: Front hood ground

Good call David. Since it only does it on the highest speed tt's got to be
the 4th speed relay. I always forget about those things.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 2:43 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Re: Front hood ground
> 
> If the blower motor fluctuates at only one speed it could be the relay
> for that speed. If it fluctuates at all speeds it could be the motor
> itself. Use a voltage meter to help find the source of the bad
> connection. You could also switch some of the relays around and se if
> that makes a difference.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:06:57 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Tires

Tires seem to always be a popular subject on the list. There's a web site
that, while it is a commercial site for selling tires, has a wealth of information about 
wheels and tires. There's even a caculator that will compare dimensional specifics between varous tire sizes.

www.1010tires.com

Bruce Benson




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 12:38:50 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: amazing vacuum discovery

List,

As many of you know, my car has been plagued with slight running problems 
ever since i got it.  part by part, tweak by tweak i've gotten the car WAY better 
and thru the whole summer it has run flawlessly with only two problems - 
lower end of the spectrum gas milage and i have always felt my car ran rich even 
though it doesn't show other symptoms.  my exhaust has always smelled like 
unburnt gasoline.

well yesterday i was doing some cleaning and i knocked the vacuum hose that 
goes from the thermal control valve to the middle orifice on the vacuum advance 
canistor/solnoid behind the fuel distributor.  the hose felt a little loose i 
cut a bit off of it to give some fresh hose to the fitting.  lo and behold, 
inside the part i cut off there was a little BALL BEARING wedged into the hose, 
apparently to correct some problem by cutting off vacuum years ago that a 
previous owner/mechanic did.  great......

now my car idles at around 950 (used to be 775) and when it is hot the idle 
sounds kind of squirrelly.  this is terrible because i think i have been 
working around this BS for years and now is EVERYTHING out of wack?

this summer i have:
replaced advance solenoid/canister
had CO professionally tuned by a ferrari restoration shop
had timing adjusted
adjusted throttle linkage and all that

actually everything on my car was more or less perfect until i found this 
'problem' and 'corrected it'.  i expect to have to get the timing adjusted, but 
what else will have to be done now?  the book says timing should be checked at 
775 rpm.  i am a couple hundred higher than that.  will that make a 
difference? how do i get the idle back down again?  will my CO have to be adjusted again 
(i drove 300 miles to get it done)?

any ideas on how to calm things down again are much appreciated!!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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