From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1686
Date: Monday, September 29, 2003 5:52 AM

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There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Re running light failure
From: "content22207" <>

2. Re: vacuum problem analysis please!
From: "content22207" <>

3. Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

4. Re: DeLorean model name...and other registration info
From: "cruznmd" <>

From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

6. Re: Wiring Harness
From: "jchapelhow" <>

7. Deloreans for Dunnies
From: "birdwell77095" <>

8. Delorean for Sale
From: "Jason Rowe" <>

9. Re: Digest Number 1685

10. got my idle and advance solved!

11. Re: ODD vs EVEN Fire
From: Jim Strickland <>

12. Re: delorean air conditioning question
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

13. Re: Toby TABs
From: Samuel <>

From: John Podlewski <>

15. Re: Re: Tires

16. Re: DeLorean model name...and other registration info
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>

17. hard starting when cold?

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 04:19:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: Re running light failure

Fuse #8 is a funny one. Not only powers right side of car, but seems
to have inherited everything that wouldn't fit elsewhere in block.

When I rewired illumination circuit moved all those other items to
inline fuse. My #8 is now mirror copy of #2. Much more sensible.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft_at_dml_a...> wrote:
> Sounds like a fuse. Numbers 2 and 8 run the markers left and right 
> respectively. They have also been known to meltdown.
> Harold McElraft - 3354
> -- In, "Jonas P" <Delorean3543_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > on my 81 vin 3543, the running lights on the driver's side (yellow 
> > light on front bumper, yellow light on front fender, red light on 
> > rear quarter panel, and center bulb on rear tail lamp assembly) 
> will 
> > not come on.  in addition to that, the front blinker on driver's 
> > side works but does not stay on when the lights are turned on.  
> the 
> > passenger side lights work fine.  i have checked all the bulbs and 
> > cleaned all the terminals with no luck.  can anyone point me in 
> the 
> > right direction to solve this problem.  
> > 
> > thanks for your help.
> > 
> > jonas 3543


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 04:30:46 -0000
From: "content22207" <>
Subject: Re: vacuum problem analysis please!

Problem 1: could be mechanical. Make sure throttle plates are closing
all the way. Can tighten spring on throttle spool by moving to next
slot. Was a thread not long ago about binding accelerator cable. Could
also be lower screw in Problem 2. Is your throttle connecting rod
screwed out too far?

Problem 2: lower screw only used if setting idle speed manually.
Automatic idle speed system serves same purpose as cracking throttle
plates. Properly functioning is even more advanced -- serves same
purpose as variably cracking throttle plates in response to different
engine conditions. Back that screw out until it does not contact stop

Of course upper screw should just trip microswitch. Too far and
throttle plates won't completely close.

Bill Robertson

>--- In, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> however now that everything is set right, i have a couple more
> problems:
> 1). when you give it some gas and let it come back down to idle, it
idles at 
> about 1000RPM.  that's too high.  it is smooth but won't go all the
way back 
> down.  if i let it run at 1000 for about a minute it actually drops
back down 
> on its own sometimes.  what is causing this? i am 100% positive that
the idle 
> microswitch works and switches as it should....
> 2).  i think the stop screw on the throttle hammer (the piece that
trips the 
> microswitch) -  is not set right anymore.  i unscrewed it to see if
it would 
> drop the idle a little (i messed with it last year too so i wondered
if it was 
> set right anymore) but it didn't help any.  actually i know it
shouldn't since 
> idle is electronically controlled but maybe it was WAY off... how do
i set 
> that stop screw (the lower one - not the one that hits the switch)
against the 
> brass stop piece so it is adjusted right?  if it is down too far,
the throttle 
> plates are cracked open, so where is the right point to screw it in?
> way, right now it still trips my microswitch.  i just want the
throttle plates 
> open however much they should be at idle.
> all tests are being done with the engine at operating temp. i can
hear my 
> idle speed motor buzzing too.
> any tips are appreciated - please CC to my personal email so i can keep 
> working over the weekend.
> Andy
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 05:51:10 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)

--- In, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 9/27/03 8:15:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> brobertson_at_dml_c... writes:
> in fact, where i work i see cars like this all the time and usually
they put 
> most of their money on purple and yellow wiring looms/conduit,
billet oil 
> caps, and stainless braided radiator hoses.  usually the engines and
> leaks copious amounts of fluid, not to mention most of the lowered
ones have 
> dented transmission pans or frames.  oh yeah - almost every one of
them has 
> the Check Engine light illuminated.
> all show, no go - but then i suppose some would say that about the
> too?

Nah, if you REALLY want some fun in a conversation with one of these
people, pull up to an autoparts store, and start talking with one.
Hilarity shall ensue, believe me. The "reccomendations" that you'll
hear are unbelievable. And there is no shortage of them! But don't
bother trying to discuss anything technical with them. It's futile.
You'll laugh, but will hardley ever get a point across that they can
comprehend. The uselessness of whells with too much negative camber,
body kits, and the installation of grocery cart handles/rear wings on
vehicles that are front wheel drive are good examples.

While not all of them are this way (just go to your local NHRA strip,
and show up for the legal street drag racing to see some gutted Civics
& CRXs with totally tricked out motors that easily blow away others.
These are the people that earn my respect for actually tuning), ricers
do provide some great comic relief on the road. Certain gas stations
here sell 100 octain fuel _at_dml_ the pump. So on the weekends, you'll see
some fool once in a while trying to roll down the street with his/her
car going, KNOCK-KNOCK-KNOCK-KNOCK-KNOCK.... after they pull away from
the gas station with said fuel in the tank.

Anyhow, when it comes to engine swaps with the DeLorean, it is
something that I too have thought quite a bit about. I'd like to
install some VG Turbos, but don't know if I would keep with the PRV,
or next most logical motor, the Rover V-8. Parts availability isn't
THAT much of a concern. If I've got to wait for something to come in,
or if I can just pick it up at the local parts store, really don't
care (if I did, I wouldn't have bought a D in the first place).

In any case, I'm still don't have enough expreience with turbos/engine
building to the point where I feel confident enough about starting a
turbo installation, or engine swap, due to the amount of fabrication
involved. I'd probably get another project car that utilizes the
technology before I take something such as this on.

But in the mean time, another option that I will most likely be going
ahead with is to tweak the gear ratios in my tranaxle. Specificly, the
Final Drive, if not 1st, 2nd, & 5th gears respectivly. Out of all the
swaps mentioned over the years, I'm surprised that I've never heard
this one mentioned. Even quite a few articles mention the tall gears
are responsable for the easy cruising speeds (why I'd keep 3rd & 4th),
but do somewhat atribute to the slower 0-60 times. I realize I won't
be pulling 9 second quartermiles, but it seems like as good a start as
anything when looking into increasing performance.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 11:44:50 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean model name...and other registration info

Hey..wait a minute. The plaque also says SOHC. As in "single overhead 
cam". Each head has it's own cam. Would that not constitute DOHC? Or 
does each head require two cams, totaling 4 to qualify as DOHC?

Or did they use a different engine?


--- In, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...> 
> --- In, "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_n...> 
> > Hi,
> > What is the correct model name for the DeLorean?
> > 
> > I have found 2 variations:
> > 
> > * DeLorean DMC-12
> > * DeLorean LK Sport Coupé 
> > (what the heck does LK stand for?)
> > 
> > My registration document states: 
> > 
> > DeLorean DMC-12 / 2.8i V6
> > 
> > Does any of you have another model name stated in your 
> document?
> <SNIP>
> The correct model designation is indeed, "DMC-12". I have no clue as
> to what "LK Sport Coupé" means, but I do know it's origin. When
> Harrah's Auto Collection in Reno, NV acquired their Gold Amex car 
> built, 5-speed "Saddle" interior), the paperwork that came with it
> designated it as a "LK Sport Coupé", and NOT a DMC-12. Why, I've no
> clue, but from what I heard, the museum curator swears up and down
> that's what the paperwork from the previous owner had printed on it.
> Fast forward many years. Sunstar decided to release the 3 DeLorean
> models based upon a regular DMC-12 (not stock, as can been seen by
> that CD player & Self-Bleeder kit on the model), a BTTF2 conversion
> for USH Theme park, and an Amex car, based upon the one in Reno, NV.
> This is where the "LK Sport Coupé" title comes from. And if anyone
> ever gets the chance to visit the museum, you'll see "LK Sport 
> printed as the modem type right on the plaque in front of the car, 
> assuming they STILL haven't dusted the car, my handprint on the
> driver's fender (karma caught up to me with a vengance on that 
> Which you can see for yourself with the following links:


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 13:17:47 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN_at_dml_ED.GOV>

Deloreans and 67 People registered for the event.   

SEDOC would like to thank Stephen Wynne and Bill Morgan of DMC 
Houston, John Hervey of SpecialTauto, Bob and Linda Zilla of Zilla 
electronics, Ron and Cheryl Wester of Gullwing Magazine and Ken 
Koncilik of Delorean Productions for traveling to Gainesville GA. and 
participating in the Gathering of Stainless Steeds and sharing new 
products and future events that will continue to keep our vehicles in 
top condition.

Special thanks to Stephen Wynne, who brought the stage 3 automatic 
Delorean for all to test drive, Ron Wester brought his beautiful 
yellow Special D, Bob Zilla brought his D, an internal sound motion 
machine and Oliver and Terry Holler brought their awesome BTTF D.

It was a gorgeous GA day and the dinner on the docks on Lake Lanier 
could not have been better.  We had 8 tables reserved about 50 ft 
from shore and the sunset and moon lit up the lake spectacularly.

Sunday 17 D's traveled to Road Atlanta's track.  We were the guest of 
the BMW club and were given the opportunity to test our skill and 
steeds on the track.  The only restrictions given were =try to keep 
up and keep them off the wall--when it was over, we lined up at the 
start finish line and Walter Coe did his thing and took the photos.

All pretty much agreed it was a great event. I am happy to report my 
blood pressure and knuckles have returned to normal.  My daughter 
drove my D for the first time ever on the track and all I can really 
remember is BRAKE BRAKE, POWER POWER POWER out of the turns.  A great 
ride, HONEST!.

Thanks to all who participated, especially Byrne and Marion Heninger 
of Heninger and Assoc.and treasurer of SEDOC,for all their hard work  
putting on this event.  

re:  John Jordan, President. SEDOC



Message: 6
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 13:55:24 -0000
From: "jchapelhow" <>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness


Many thanks for your continued assistance, I have received several e-
mails of suggestions off-list and thought it was time for an update.

To recap, my electrical problems are that several of the gauges 
fluctuate with differing electrical loads, ie the turn indicators 
cause a `bounce' in the oil pressure reading. The central console and 
door lock warning indicators also dim when the indicators are used.

I have removed the instrument binnacle and cleaned all of the 
contacts, several of the bulbs were not fully seated therefore 
disrupting electrical pathways. At the moment the binnacle is still 

I have temporarily unplugged all of the wiring connectors at the back 
right of the engine bay. The buzzer logic box panel has been removed, 
along with the intermittent wiper module, leaving just the flasher 
relay to `dangle' under the dash.

I have run a temporary ground connection from the engine bay ground 
point to the individual wires grouped near the left front wheel.

Now when I test the earth points either at the binnacle connector 
blocks or at the dashboard end of the buzzer box ground I am able to 
detect a voltage when circuits are turned on (0.7v side lights, 1.2v 
main lights, fluctuates to 1.45v when indicators are used), 
continuity tests also fail as soon as the ignition switch is moved to 
P1. Is this what everyone refers to as a floating earth? 

All new relays/fuses have been fitted (with all the connectors 
cleaned), the connectors to the ground by the front wheel look good 
and measure low resistance until `something' is energised by turning 
the key. This even happens with fuse 12 removed, the courtesy 
circuits (door lights) also seem to place a voltage on the ground 

All ideas welcomed.

John Chapelhow
MMG 287W : `Boeing' 0737


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 14:20:27 -0000
From: "birdwell77095" <>
Subject: Deloreans for Dunnies

I'm sure many of us are Delorean owners wannabees or "mechanically 
challenged" to say the least. All of us are familiar with the "______ 
for Dummies" series. Why not make one for Deloreans? The first 
chapter could deal with the history of the car. The second chapter 
could deal with the automotive terms of the car "Isn't Lamba a 
birthing technique?" The following chapters chapters can be how to 
subjects. Throughout the book have pictures, cartoons, and funny 
quotes such as questions/comments that Delorean owners get from 
people. "Isn't that an aluminum body?" This could be fun to read yet 

Shannon (no VIN yet)


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 09:42:04 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <>
Subject: Delorean for Sale

        Hello all. I was just looking through the wheels & deals showcase 
magazine and saw a Delorean for sale if anyone might be interested. 
Heres what it says: 1981 Delorean, 5spd,ac,leather,14k, great project car! 
$10,950 1-800-354-2361.    I'm assuming it's a dealer since it's an 800 number. 
It doesn't say where it's located at but it should be in Indiana somewhere. You 
could also try . I tried but couldn't  find it.  I know nothing 
about this car. I just saw it and passed it on in case someone is interested. 

                     Jason #5903

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 10:46:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1685

Delorean Siting.

Hi List,

Well yesterday I saw a silver D heading west towards Martinsburg, WV on Route 
9.  I waved from Metro Auto Sales and he waved back.

Hope this guy is on the list and might want to show off his ride sometime.

I also dropped my mail to wave!

Anna Noe

working towards a D someday


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:11:04 EDT
Subject: got my idle and advance solved!


thanks for the info on getting my car to settle down. here is everything i 
wound up having to correct to get it running right:

1. switch two vacuum hoses which were somehow routed wrong (how i missed that 
i will never know)

2. recrimp connectors to the back of the idle speed switch. one was loose and 
not making a good connection all the time.  this made my advance solenoid get 
a ground and now it energizes all the time and cuts off vacuum to the 
distributor advance when hot.

3. since the advance was always F'd up, i had to reset base timing.  it was 
retarded 5 degrees.

4. had to remove both stop screws on the throttle and reset.  turns out 
throttle plates were cracked a little at idle and causing too much air to enter 
when the idle motor was running as well.

so as you can see, as is typical with these cars, i was suffering from a 
number of problems all at once.  now that i tackled each one, one at a time, my 
car runs WAY smoother, my exhaust smells normal, i bet my gas milage will go way 
up now that my vacuum advance works right!!!!

Thanks List,

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 11:58:15 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <>
Subject: Re: ODD vs EVEN Fire


I didn't know this; I guess it is because of how the manual shows the
firing order, 1-6-3-5-2-4.  I noticed from the distributor cap that there
were three sets of 2, and had just assumed that it was 1-6, 3-5, 2-4.  I
guess a better firing order might have been 6-3-5-2-4-1.  Besides having
the '1' as the starting cylinder, is there any reason for the firing
order as published and not as I have written, assuming that My Wilson is


On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 16:40:01 -0400 (EDT) William T Wilson
<> writes:
> On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 wrote:
> > I know this has been talked about before but I can't find it...  
> What is
> > the difference between Odd and Even fire?
> With odd fire, the cylinders fire in pairs, the two cylinders in the 
> same 
> "length-wise" position firing in rapid succession, then a pause, 
> then two 
> more, then another pause, then the last two.  With even fire, the 
> cylinders all fire individually and are distributed around the 
> engine in 
> an order which minimizes vibration and noise.
> Generally odd-fire engines have more low-end torque, but even-fire 
> engines 
> run more smoothly.  There's a big difference in the sound and feel, 
> but 
> not that much in the performance.
> There are a lot more even fire engines around because most people 
> value 
> noise and smoothness over torque, but odd fire engines are still 
> popular 
> in places- the Viper uses an odd fire engine (but of course with 
> five 
> groups of cylinders instead of three :) )

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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 16:30:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: delorean air conditioning question

You have to think of it the other way around. A 20 micron vacuum is
lower than a 700 micron vacuum. Just because the pump can get to a
particular vacuum is no indicator of the vacuum you can achieve on a
system. Because of the cumulative effect of multiple leaks, from
service connections to the service hoses to all the connections,
hoses, and seals in the system you are trying to vacuum you cannot get
that hard a vacuum. The main point is the harder the vacuum you can
reach and the longer you can maintain it is a measure of the tightness
of the system and the ability to remove the previous gasses and
moisture. The better you can do that the better (and longer) the
system will work. I use a Robinson dual stage and I change the oil
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> This pumps specs say it can only pull 20 microns and it was
extremely expensive.I cant imagine what one that pulls 700 microns
would cost .Something seems a little wrong with this picture.what kind
of pump do you use?


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:41:30 -0400
From: Samuel <>
Subject: Re: Toby TABs

I got some quick responses about the toby tabs, they are sold, so no 
more emails needed.


Samuel wrote:

>I have 2 pair of spare Toby TABs (4 bolts) at my disposal. Never used. I 
>thought about putting them up on EBay but then figured I would post to 
>the list first.
>I offer them up for the original $66 a pair + shipping that they sold 
>for. Email me privately of course.
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
>To search the archives or view files, log in at 
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to 


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:21:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <>

Got my Delorean out of the shop, yesterday it ran went I took it in for a tune up 4 weeks ago but not anymore.  Paid nothing of course, but not only do I have to fix whatever problem the mechanic caused, I have to clean out the fuel system due to it sitting the previous 4 months.  Yes, 4 months at another mechanic Jag shop waiting for clutch to be installed, needless to say.  I got tired of waiting and did it myself.  Two things, when the car did run It hiccuped only after shifting and applying full gas I think after 2nd and 3rd gears, O.K maybe all gears, but It certainly seems like a fuel problem to me.  Could anyone go over the complete and correct procedure to clean the entire fuel system.  In the meantime I 'll try to straighten out what I hope is just crossed wires and keep my fingers crossed, thanks Harold.  As for the second thing just in case, does anyone know a fair and knowledgeable DMC mechanic in Ft. Lauderdale or Miami, I could just settle for knowledgeable so far I've
 had neither. 

Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 15:41:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Tires

This tire thread comes up all the time and in most regards everyone is right 
in their own perspective.

Bottom line is tires age

I run NCT's on my car and how a tire ages depends on its care.

Most tires are stored on cars outside and that will tear them up quickly 
along with heat generated with the tires in use. High mileage NCTs (15K and up) 
are not as easy to find as low mileage ones because they have gotten hard and 
have been replaced.

I have 6 pairs of NCT's (all under 7,500K) and all vary in hardness.  The set 
I use on my concours car and one set that was on Patricks car are the two 
best sets I have.  They were kept in the dark ( out of sunlight basically) and 
kept oiled and they are a bit hard but not brittle.  The car I showed in Houson 
with 170 miles has a great outer apearance but since I don't drive it I don't 
know how they are.  Keeping tires oiled so to speak helps keep  the tires 
softer longer but age will eventually catch up to all NCT tires.  

The set I bought in Houston with the rims, I ran in Evansville this weekend 
and it was like riding over a road with 1" diameter bars across the road about 
every three feet and they never smoothed out.  
One set on the parts car was actually bought in 94 according to the paperwork 
and not NCT's and they were coming apart. Those were definately in the worse 
shape but 12 years younger than the NCT tires. (trashed them)

Age is relative to care and the "average" life of a tire based on this survey 
is 7-10 average years. Some will give less life, some more.

If you drive the car a lot change the tires.
If you do the Dragon run in Pigeon Forge do it on good tires period.

This is a cue to change your tires before the show if you plan to do the run 
and you have low tread or hard tires.
If you use it for show or prefer to keep it stock, find a well taken car of 
set of NCTs and continue to take car of them.  Look for warning signs and drive 
I have never had a problem and will continue to use them as long as I have a 
good set. 

The outgassing, UV damage and ozone damage can be somewhat controlled and 
there are still NCT tires that are usable as mentioned above, others are trash, 
but the new tires are much smoother.  There are a number of you out there 
including me that use NCT's and we do inspect them a lot but most of the failures 
are typical of age where the tire seperates from the inter belts and it is 

With the NCT tires I have I am keeping 4 sets and trashing 2 sets because of 
hardness (dryrot/Aging)  The NCT tires were never the top of the line tire 
anyway in my opinion.

Also the few reports of NCT tire failures all have indicated there were 
warning signs before the tire went.  If this were cronic there would be a lot of 
reports like this on the DML and there are not.

Dave who is one of the best techinical people around had NCT tires on the car 
he drives until recently.  The testimony that new tires run smoother should 
not be a surprise but I think he still feels that if NCT tires were still being 
manufactured he would prefere running stock tires. And I would as well.  They 
are not so use what you like.

Even on my truck that is one year old.  The old tires will not run as good as 
new tires.

Take care and if you need a set for show let me know.  LOL


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 21:05:03 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <>
Subject: Re: DeLorean model name...and other registration info

--- In, "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> Hey..wait a minute. The plaque also says SOHC. As in "single overhead 
> cam". Each head has it's own cam. Would that not constitute DOHC? Or 
> does each head require two cams, totaling 4 to qualify as DOHC?
> Or did they use a different engine?
> Rich
> #5335

The designation SOHC, or DOHC refers to the # of camshafts per
valvetrain above each bank of cylinders, not how many total are used
on an engine. So yes, the PRV used in the DeLorean is a SOHC engine.
DOHC would refer to a motor that utilizes 2 camshafts per valvetrain.

Motors that utilize a singular camshaft located above the crank, and
connect to the valves using connecting rods are refered to as Over
Head Valve engines. Or, OHV for short.

vin 6585 "X"


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 20:05:21 EDT
Subject: hard starting when cold?


I am getting very close to having my car tuned as well as it will ever be.  
Now it is doing GREAT when idling, starts immediately when warm, in fact it is 
ALMOST perfect... 

the only 'problem' i have is that when the car is stone cold in the morning 
(50 deg F), it seems to take a little too long to start the motor when 
cranking.  here is my procedure:

1. put the key in ignition
2. don't touch the gas at all, just push in the clutch
3. begin cranking.  
4. cranks for about 4 sec or so, starts to fire, then within 1/2 a second it 
is running

does it normally take this long for the car to start when cold?
i checked all my fuel pressures and rest, primary, and control pressures are 
all within specs.  if this isn't right, where else should i look?  if you have 
a suggestion, do you have a test to rule it out?  i'm guessing either a 
problem with the CPR, cold start valve, or thermo-time switch, but i don't want to 
start tearing things apart unless this isn't typical.

not too terrible or pressing a problem, but i'm just making sure everything 
is perfect.  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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