From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1687
Date: Monday, September 29, 2003 9:05 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. NOT TUNED
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

2. Intreior Lights
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

4. Re: hard starting when cold?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

5. Re: hard starting when cold?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

6. Re: Tires
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

7. Re: Deloreans for Dunnies
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

8. Re: TUNE-UP GONE VERY BAD
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

9. Re: TUNE-UP GONE VERY BAD
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. NOx
From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com>

11. Engine Mods
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. Fuel questions
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>

13. Odd Firing
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>

14. Jim
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

15. hoses
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

16. RE: NOT TUNED
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>

17. Re: Engine Mods
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

18. RE: Deloreans for Dunnies
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

19. Re: NOT TUNED
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

20. Re: Odd Firing
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

21. diagnosis
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

22. Re: Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. Re: Fuel questions
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

24. Re: Engine Mods
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: Fuel questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 18:15:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: NOT TUNED

Well looks like it is not just crossed wires or vacuum hoses although two of the hoses were not connected.  Doubt that would cause my D to idle fine but only go 1 mph when gas is applied.  I have tried checking the thermistor and it is connected and spark plug wires are on in correct firing order.  I just don't know what the mechanic did to get it running this bad.  I'm sure it can't be anything major but I can't figure it out.  I'll check the timing tomorrow but it idles around 1000 RPM's now which better,  but can't drive it.   Any Suggestions?


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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 17:50:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: steve trimble <stevetrimble52_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Intreior Lights

Can anyone shed some light on the location of the
device that gradually dims the interior lights.
(Pardon the pun).
Anyone on here from the Kentucky area?
Thanks,
Steve

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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 20:40:09 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)

Let's leave the rice alone, eh?  They're fanatical about their cars.  I
woudn't say anything different about people on this list.

About the check engine lights, a cold air intake and free flow exhaust
isn't going to turn on the check engine light on "almost every one of
them".  Plus, why would the engine and transmission leak if there were no
modifcations to them?  This makes no sense.

Body kits and spoilers can and do create downforce, regardless of where
the engine is.  

About using 100 octane gas, I hope you are not implying "knock knock
knock" that the engine is more likely to knock with higher octane.  The
octane rating is the fuel's ability to resist knock.  And yes, as long as
you aren't using a cat, your engine won't care much about the leaded
fuel.

I don't see how the rover v8 is the most logical engine replacement. 
Considering that the Delorean has English electrics and suspension,
german fuel injection, italian design, french/swedish engine, built in
Ireland with an American Founder, I think the most logical engine is
Japanese.  

About your quarter mile and changing gears, I would first aim for a 9
second 0-60, not quarter mile.  

Jim 
1537


On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 05:51:10 -0000 "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
writes:
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > In a message dated 9/27/03 8:15:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> > brobertson_at_dml_c... writes:
> <SNIP>
> > in fact, where i work i see cars like this all the time and 
> usually
> they put 
> > most of their money on purple and yellow wiring looms/conduit,
> billet oil 
> > caps, and stainless braided radiator hoses.  



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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 01:35:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: hard starting when cold?

First: do you have resistance on air sensor plate at key turn? Ran
into fellow as SEDOC with leaking fuel distributor regulator. Didn't
have enough pressure to crack injectors until pump had spun for a while.

You didn't mention cold start valve diagnosis. Is it pumping? Check
for 12v in (white/red) and a good ground (blue/black) when coolant
cold. If you have no ground then thermal time switch is bad or not
grounding itself (or wiring is bad to it).

Don't know test for valve itself (unless you simply remove cold start
tube -- accessible between cylinders 1 & 2 -- and jump to see if fuel
comes out).

What is condition of ignition spark? How many volts are going into
coil? Is your starting relay cutting out one of the ballast resistors? 
Try running a 12v jumper to positive side of coil while cranking (this
is temporary -- don't screw it to coil terminal).

One of the reasons people move up to high energy ignition is cold
weather performance. If you don't want to make the 40,000 volt leap
Bosch has a 25,000 volt coil.

In fact, what is condition of all disposable ignition components? A
lot of condensation builds up over cold night, and nothing eats up
high tension like moisture. Can be especially bad under distributor cap.

Lamda has some sort of coolant temp sensor, but someone with intact
system will have to advise diagnosis.

Don't worry about accelerator pedal. Fuel delivery system has no pump
attached (like carburetor). Opening throttle plates will only make
starting harder.

Congrats otherwise. Can take a while to tune PRV just right.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> I am getting very close to having my car tuned as well as it will
ever be.  
> Now it is doing GREAT when idling, starts immediately when warm, in
fact it is 
> ALMOST perfect... 
> 
> the only 'problem' i have is that when the car is stone cold in the
morning 
> (50 deg F), it seems to take a little too long to start the motor when 
> cranking.  here is my procedure:
> 
> 1. put the key in ignition
> 2. don't touch the gas at all, just push in the clutch
> 3. begin cranking.  
> 4. cranks for about 4 sec or so, starts to fire, then within 1/2 a
second it 
> is running
> 
> does it normally take this long for the car to start when cold?
> i checked all my fuel pressures and rest, primary, and control
pressures are 
> all within specs.  if this isn't right, where else should i look? 
if you have 
> a suggestion, do you have a test to rule it out?  i'm guessing either a 
> problem with the CPR, cold start valve, or thermo-time switch, but i
don't want to 
> start tearing things apart unless this isn't typical.
> 
> not too terrible or pressing a problem, but i'm just making sure
everything 
> is perfect.  
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 01:45:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: hard starting when cold?

When all else fails RTFM. (Read the F- manual). According to the
owner's manual and the paper on the driver's visor (if it is still
there) the way to start a Delorean is to crank it with the pedal held
down 1/4 of the way and release as soon as it starts to run. Now I
have done many cars and most will start just fine without touching the
pedal at all. Some seem to crank longer than others. I am sure
temperature and the gas you use will make a difference. Also how "hot"
the battery is. A weak, slow cranking battery won't start as quickly
as a fully charged, newer one. Try it and let us know. Since you found
a plugged vacuum hose I would go over every system on the car, G-D
only knows what else the P.O. did to the car to get it to run.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
> 
> I am getting very close to having my car tuned as well as it will
ever be.  
> Now it is doing GREAT when idling, starts immediately when warm, in
fact it is 





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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 01:55:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Tires

I agree with most of what Ken says but most Deloreans are not running
on NCT's anymore. They did not wear all that well and as he said they
weren't the best tire anyway at the time. My point in mentioning this
about tires is that no matter what you do, age is catching up on the
NCT's. Worse than that is how the dreaded P.O. (previous owner) took
care of them. I mentioned on an earlier post how a local owner
replaced the tires on his car and we found the inside of one was all
chewed up inside from being driven on flat. The tire looked OK on the
outside but it was an accident waiting to happen. As good as the NCT's
were back in 1982 they are old technology now. At this point in time
my best advice for anyone is to save the NCT's for a Concours. The car
WILL drive much better with a set of new tires. If you do drive on the
NCT's you will never know how much better the Delorean can be with a
new set of tires. Ken is also correct that if this was a big problem
we would have heard of more tire failures by now and we don't so I
attribute that to the fact that most of the driven cars don't have
NCT's and the ones that do aren't driven much.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, kKoncelik_at_dml_a... wrote:
> This tire thread comes up all the time and in most regards everyone
is right 
> in their own perspective.
> 
> Bottom line is tires age
> 
> I run NCT's on my car and how a tire ages depends on its care.
> 
> Most tires are stored on cars outside and that will tear them up
quickly 





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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 02:03:32 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Deloreans for Dunnies

What you are asking for is a monumental task. Not only that but the
person that did it could never get his investment in time out of it.
Yes, it would be nice for the newbie's but so is a search of the
archives of the DML. If most of the posters with problems bothered to
look many of their questions have been asked and answered several
times by now. You can start at DMCNEWS.COM. There is a wealth of
information there for the taking, all you have to do is look! For the
mechanically challenged you should seek out and join a local group.
There you will usually find several members who are happy help you.
After you get familiar with the Delorean maybe you could be the one to
make a "Dummies" guide, you seem to know what you want!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "birdwell77095" <birdwells_at_dml_u...> wrote:
> I'm sure many of us are Delorean owners wannabees or "mechanically 
> challenged" to say the least. All of us are familiar with the "______ 
> for Dummies" series. Why not make one for Deloreans? The first 
> chapter could deal with the history of the car. The second chapter 
> could deal with the automotive terms of the car "Isn't Lamba a 
> birthing technique?" The following chapters chapters can be how to 
> subjects. Throughout the book have pictures, cartoons, and funny 
> quotes such as questions/comments that Delorean owners get from 
> people. "Isn't that an aluminum body?" This could be fun to read yet 
> informative.
> 
> Shannon (no VIN yet)




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 02:13:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: TUNE-UP GONE VERY BAD

Unfortunatly you are in the worst position of all. Not only do you
have the origional problem you took it in for the tune-up for, the
shop caused more problems. Now you don't know where to start! If you
are not experienced at diagnoses you really do need to go to a shop
that is familiar with Deloreans. Short of that if you can explain the
problems the DML could help you sort them out one at a time. To clean
out the fuel system you remove the fuel pump and drain the fuel. Now
just wipe out the tank. After inspecting the internal baffles and
hoses put it back together, add fuel and replace the fuel filter. You
may have to have the fuel injectors cleaned and tested. That should be
all you need after 4 months, it isn't that long a time. I am guessing
that your initial problem was due to the spark plugs being worn and
the ignition wires being old. In any case a full tune-up should
eliminate the problem.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Got my Delorean out of the shop, yesterday it ran went I took it in
for a tune up 4 weeks ago but not anymore.  Paid nothing of course,
but not only do I have to fix whatever problem the mechanic caused, I
have to clean out the fuel system due to it sitting the previous 4
months.  Yes, 4 months at another mechanic Jag shop waiting for clutch
to be installed, needless to say.  I got tired of waiting and did it
myself.  Two things, when the car did run It hiccuped only after
shifting and 




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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 20:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: TUNE-UP GONE VERY BAD


NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER! let anyone tamper with a bosch k jettronic mechanical fuel injection system if it is working!! If the car is acting funny chances are its something else.Mechanical fuel injection is very reliable nothing else on the car is. Check everything else before touching the mechanical injection system.There are practically no mechanics who know how to service these fuel systems.Anyone else who claims he can adjust or "tweak" it I advise you knock them out with a billy club and drag them a safe distance from your vehicle.Start collecting literature and service manuals on bosch systems thats your only hope now.Four months of sitting shouldnt have been that hard on it are you sure it wasnt longer?I am sure there will be plenty of rebuttals to this post but these are the same people who also posted previously "Tune up gone bad". So how much credibility can we really lend them?


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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 08:39:11 -0400
From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com>
Subject: NOx

Hi All,

I've been out of town lately ( again... )  and just wanted to say thanks to
all, and the group, for the replies regarding my problems with nitrogen
oxides in the Ohio emissions test.

Regards,

George Ryerson




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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:38:34 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Mods

I would like to modify my engine to gain a liitle more perfomance out 
of it.  I do not have 5G's to send my car to Houston.

I stumbled upon a website with a pic of a supercharged engine:

http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/pics/superchargedprv.jp
g

Does anyone anything about this engine or the car's owner?  Is this 
what the upgrade looks like from Houston???

Greg
6598






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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 15:31:57 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel questions

Dear List,
  On my trip back home last night my trip was pretty uneventful. 
Until I realized that my gas gauge was a little low. The only problem 
was that it was too low for the distance that I had traveled. I use 
my trip meter to help measure the distance before I fill up again. 
And usually I can go another 50 miles without any problem. I wouldn't 
be concerned but I was also smelling gasoline for most of the trip 
back. Should I be concerned and if there is a problem. What should I 
do to fix it?
    Thanks,
       Kramer
       ~#10610




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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:21:05 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_peoplepc.com>
Subject: Odd Firing

This has been on the list a couple of times but again, the reason an engine
is odd or even firing is because of the crankshaft design as related to the
number of cylinders and their degree of opposed separation. In the case of
the DeLorean engine it is six cylinders with two groups of three cylinders
opposed at 90 degrees. The most economical design for crankshafts in a 'V'
configured engine is to have a pair of opposed cylinders sharing the same
journal of the crankshaft. When you oppose six cylinders at 90 degrees and
have each opposing cylinder share a common crankcase journal the math works
out to the fact that one of these cylinders rotates the crankshaft more
degrees than the other. The firing order is configured accordingly. A more expensive
approach is to utilize a crankshaft with individual journals for each
cylinder which equalizes crankshaft rotation throughout all cylinders.
Unfortunately that creates more expense for the manufacturer and many have
adopted a less expensive approach with a counter rotating balance shaft
designed into the engines total configuration  to counter the odd firing
scenario . This works out very well and results in a smooth running odd
firing engine. Since many V-6's were derived from 90 degree V-8's
(8 cylinders at 90 degrees do result in an even firing scenario) they ended up as odd firing. Newer V-6's have been been designed in 60 degree configurations
to allow the math to work out to even firing.

Bruce Benson





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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:47:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Jim

Jim I trying to get it running, the delorean won't run above idle, real rough.  Email me with your number or e-mail and we'll talk.  And as for mechanics I feel the same way, I try do to everything myself now but it is not always easy, need some insight.


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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:20:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: hoses

Does any know where I could find the correct routing for all the vacuum hoses? Think I got it right (thanks for pictures from SpecialT) just what to be sure before I put everything back together. Because I found I'm left with one extra don't ask how though, it is about 7 in. long or so, could have been from the mechanic or does it go somewhere I'm missing. The rest of  the hoses are where they should be.                                                                                                                          Also how do I clean the screen in the fuel distributor it's already off the car?


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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:02:43 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin_at_dml_vantagep.com>
Subject: RE: NOT TUNED

When he did the tune up, did he take the intake manifold off? A loose
manifold will cause a HUGE vacuum leak and exhibit this.

Make sure he did not accidentally bump the plug off the advance solenoid.
When I tuned mine up, the solenoid went bad and I had this very same
problem. Put a timing light on it to see if it advances at all.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Podlewski [mailto:john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 9:16 PM
> To: dmcnews_at_dml_groups1.vip.scd.yahoo.com
> Subject: [DML] NOT TUNED
> 
> Well looks like it is not just crossed wires or vacuum hoses although two
> of the hoses were not connected.  Doubt that would cause my D to idle fine
> but only go 1 mph when gas is applied.  I have tried checking the
> thermistor and it is connected and spark plug wires are on in correct
> firing order.  I just don't know what the mechanic did to get it running
> this bad.  I'm sure it can't be anything major but I can't figure it out.
> I'll check the timing tomorrow but it idles around 1000 RPM's now which
> better,  but can't drive it.   Any Suggestions?
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------




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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 21:21:48 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Mods

Greg 

I think I took that picture - the car is (was) in the Chicago area 
(like me).  It's a powerdyne(?) blower (commonly used on Mustangs). I 
have not seen this  car now for a couple of years.  It's a one-off 
built by a guy name  Glenn (sorry, the last name excapes me) at a 
shop called "Glenn and Sons" in the northern chicago suburbs 
(Skokie?).  Nothing terribly special about it, it just blows thru the 
intake. I think he had to move the alternator and the coolant 
reservoir. There were no other  internal mods made, the trickiest 
part was making the bracket and making the serpentine belt drive 
pulley setup work. I believe that they spent somewhere in the 4-5K 
range to make it all work. 

We put it on a dyno, it made about the same horsepower as a turbo car 
but peaked out at a lower rpm. As with the turbo cars, it leaned out 
horribly on the top end. Any of these solutions really exceed the 
capacity of the stock fuel distributor/injectors. One other problem 
he had was blowing the pressure pipe off the intake manifold. It did 
really perk up the car though. The other funny part is that you could 
take the belt off, put the stock air cleaner back on, and the car was 
completely back to normal. 

Dyno diagrams of this car are on the www.dmcnews.com site. 

This looks nothing like the Houston engine. It looks like a stock 
engine with a blower on it. 

There are no easy answers..... 

Dave 

 
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I would like to modify my engine to gain a liitle more perfomance 
out 
> of it.  I do not have 5G's to send my car to Houston.
> 
> I stumbled upon a website with a pic of a supercharged engine:
> 
> 
http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/pics/superchargedprv.jp
> g
> 
> Does anyone anything about this engine or the car's owner?  Is this 
> what the upgrade looks like from Houston???
> 
> Greg
> 6598




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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 18:13:52 -0400
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: RE: Deloreans for Dunnies

I was bored a while back..

http://www.88-mph.com/images/jeff/dmcdummies.jpg

-Jeff
 

-----Original Message-----
From: birdwell77095 [mailto:birdwells_at_dml_usa.net] 
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 10:20 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Deloreans for Dunnies

I'm sure many of us are Delorean owners wannabees or "mechanically 
challenged" to say the least. All of us are familiar with the "______ 
for Dummies" series. Why not make one for Deloreans? The first 
chapter could deal with the history of the car. The second chapter 
could deal with the automotive terms of the car "Isn't Lamba a 
birthing technique?" The following chapters chapters can be how to 
subjects. Throughout the book have pictures, cartoons, and funny 
quotes such as questions/comments that Delorean owners get from 
people. "Isn't that an aluminum body?" This could be fun to read yet 
informative.

Shannon (no VIN yet)



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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:27:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: NOT TUNED

Make sure spark advance is not getting full engine vacuum at idle. If
it is, car may actually timed way too retarded (masked at idle by over
advance). Won't know it until RPM's increase and vacuum drops,
allowing ignition time to return to true setting. Could then be
shooting spark as late as ATDC.

Put a timing light on engine and watch scale as throttle plates opened
by hand.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Well looks like it is not just crossed wires or vacuum hoses
although two of the hoses were not connected.  Doubt that would cause
my D to idle fine but only go 1 mph when gas is applied.  I have tried
checking the thermistor and it is connected and spark plug wires are
on in correct firing order.  I just don't know what the mechanic did
to get it running this bad.  I'm sure it can't be anything major but I
can't figure it out.  I'll check the timing tomorrow but it idles
around 1000 RPM's now which better,  but can't drive it.   Any
Suggestions?
> 
> 
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:35:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Odd Firing

PRV in final version was also converted to 60 degrees. I believe this
is engine Chrysler Eagles used.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "B Benson" <delornut_at_dml_p...> wrote:
> This has been on the list a couple of times but again, the reason an
engine
> is odd or even firing is because of the crankshaft design as related
to the
> number of cylinders and their degree of opposed separation. In the
case of
> the DeLorean engine it is six cylinders with two groups of three
cylinders
> opposed at 90 degrees. The most economical design for crankshafts in
a 'V'
> configured engine is to have a pair of opposed cylinders sharing the
same
> journal of the crankshaft. When you oppose six cylinders at 90
degrees and
> have each opposing cylinder share a common crankcase journal the
math works
> out to the fact that one of these cylinders rotates the crankshaft more
> degrees than the other. The firing order is configured accordingly.
A more expensive
> approach is to utilize a crankshaft with individual journals for each
> cylinder which equalizes crankshaft rotation throughout all cylinders.
> Unfortunately that creates more expense for the manufacturer and
many have
> adopted a less expensive approach with a counter rotating balance shaft
> designed into the engines total configuration  to counter the odd firing
> scenario . This works out very well and results in a smooth running odd
> firing engine. Since many V-6's were derived from 90 degree V-8's
> (8 cylinders at 90 degrees do result in an even firing scenario)
they ended up as odd firing. Newer V-6's have been been designed in 60
degree configurations
> to allow the math to work out to even firing.
> 
> Bruce Benson




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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 15:47:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: diagnosis

Quick questions does the advance solenoid valve have to be grounded cause it wasn't, just try wrapped and the vacuum lines that are connected to it where not connected right.  Would that cause my problem of only going being able to go 1 MPH if at all?  I'm in the process of putting every thing together but have many questions!       Also no way to tell what the mechanic did, he is not talking-due to me not paying him for totally screwing up my Delorean.  How unfortunate for him and I happen to notice another Delorean there when I picked mine up with the tow truck, of coarse.  If the owner is on the DML I strongly suggest that he get it the Hell out of there. The name of the above mention shop is G.T CAR CENTER in Ft. Lauderdale clearly they don't have a clue!



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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:56:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Engine Swap-Out (Rice Burners)

Run into rice burners every time I'm at parts house:

Oil and transmission pans can leak because they're bent from bottoming
out on lowered suspensions. Plus how many rice jockeys have ever
re-tightened the mounting bolts? They do work loose...

Problem with forcing down rear end (assuming those wings are actually
aerodynamic) is cars are front wheel drive.

Check engine lights come on because they love to try de-emissioning
etc. My Lincolns can be de-emissioned because, other than ignition,
engine has no electronics. My truck (1985) was de-emissioned but I
lost electrical spark advance normally controlled by primitive onboard
computer. Can not run around willy nilly disconnecting sensors and
devices on contemporary vehicles without consequences. Rice jockeys
are lucky if check engine is least of them (here's a thought -- why
not open dash and remove the bulb...)

Too high octance won't cause pre-ignition, but it can cause a fouled
miss. If engine isn't high compression, or high temp, factory ignition
may not yield enough burn time. Isn't time on these new cars computer
controlled (non-adjustable)?

Most of the rice burners I encounter are running stock exhaust
manifolds. Backpressure doesn't drop until rediculously loud muffler.

Isn't stock DeLo already 9 seconds or so 0-60?

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> Let's leave the rice alone, eh?  They're fanatical about their cars.  I
> woudn't say anything different about people on this list.
> 
> About the check engine lights, a cold air intake and free flow exhaust
> isn't going to turn on the check engine light on "almost every one of
> them".  Plus, why would the engine and transmission leak if there
were no
> modifcations to them?  This makes no sense.
> 
> Body kits and spoilers can and do create downforce, regardless of where
> the engine is.  
> 
> About using 100 octane gas, I hope you are not implying "knock knock
> knock" that the engine is more likely to knock with higher octane.  The
> octane rating is the fuel's ability to resist knock.  And yes, as
long as
> you aren't using a cat, your engine won't care much about the leaded
> fuel.
> 
> I don't see how the rover v8 is the most logical engine replacement. 
> Considering that the Delorean has English electrics and suspension,
> german fuel injection, italian design, french/swedish engine, built in
> Ireland with an American Founder, I think the most logical engine is
> Japanese.  
> 
> About your quarter mile and changing gears, I would first aim for a 9
> second 0-60, not quarter mile.  
> 
> Jim 
> 1537
> 
> 
> On Sun, 28 Sep 2003 05:51:10 -0000 "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_l...>
> writes:
> > --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > > In a message dated 9/27/03 8:15:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> > > brobertson_at_dml_c... writes:
> > <SNIP>
> > > in fact, where i work i see cars like this all the time and 
> > usually
> > they put 
> > > most of their money on purple and yellow wiring looms/conduit,
> > billet oil 
> > > caps, and stainless braided radiator hoses.




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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 23:05:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel questions

Jump RPM relay to force pump on (can do this even without energizing
vehicle), jack up car, and climb underneath for visual inspection. If
you see gas flowing from closing plate, problem is tank/pump related
(located above closing plate, mostly accessible below spare tire).
Accumulator hidden in world's worse location right before rear
wishbone. Fuel filter attached to driver's side of wishbone. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Dear List,
>   On my trip back home last night my trip was pretty uneventful. 
> Until I realized that my gas gauge was a little low. The only problem 
> was that it was too low for the distance that I had traveled. I use 
> my trip meter to help measure the distance before I fill up again. 
> And usually I can go another 50 miles without any problem. I wouldn't 
> be concerned but I was also smelling gasoline for most of the trip 
> back. Should I be concerned and if there is a problem. What should I 
> do to fix it?
>     Thanks,
>        Kramer
>        ~#10610




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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 23:31:39 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Mods

Houston is definitely not going anywhere near turbo/supercharging
(though Steve Wynn did mention NOS injection at SEDOC!). Their mods
are pretty conventional: free'er breathing intake (did anyone at SEDOC
notice Steve was also using a Volvo air filter housing), more
aggressive cams, headers, etc. Basically the same type products you'd
buy from Jeg's or Summit for domestic blocks.

Are you running manual or automatic transmission? If it's 5 speed you
should be able to get very satisfactory performance out of proper tune. 

If published HP number is scaring you, please see earlier posts of
current rice burner thread (now veered into new topic). Properly tuned
DeLo WILL pass the competition under load. If you're worried about
what to say when louvers are open, just tell curious "I'm not sure
exactly how many horses this particular engine has, but Houston dyno
tested theirs at 197". Both true statements BTW and you're off the
"130 HP" hook.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> I would like to modify my engine to gain a liitle more perfomance out 
> of it.  I do not have 5G's to send my car to Houston.
> 
> I stumbled upon a website with a pic of a supercharged engine:
> 
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/delorean/pics/superchargedprv.jp
> g
> 
> Does anyone anything about this engine or the car's owner?  Is this 
> what the upgrade looks like from Houston???
> 
> Greg
> 6598




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 23:50:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel questions

Any leaks will cause you to use fuel up faster so look for them as per
last post. The other thing is the origional fuel gauge is notoriously
inaccurate. You could have a fuel leak but the fuel gauge could also
be bad.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Jump RPM relay to force pump on (can do this even without energizing
> vehicle), jack up car, and climb underneath for visual inspection. If
> you see gas flowing from closing plate, problem is tank/pump related
> (located above closing plate, mostly accessible below spare tire).
> Accumulator hidden in world's worse location right before rear
> wishbone. Fuel filter attached to driver's side of wishbone. 
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Kramer" <jettaman95_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> > Dear List,
> >   On my trip back home last night my trip was pretty uneventful. 
> > Until I realized that my gas gauge was a little low. The only problem 
> > was that it was too low for the distance that I had traveled. I use 
> > my trip meter to help measure the distance before I fill up again. 
> > And usually I can go another 50 miles without any problem. I wouldn't 
> > be concerned but I was also smelling gasoline for most of the trip 
> > back. Should I be concerned and if there is a problem. What should I 
> > do to fix it?
> >     Thanks,
> >        Kramer
> >        ~#10610




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