From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1689
Date: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:26 PM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. DeLorean Car Show Magazine
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com

2. Re: Re: hard starting when cold?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: Loss of coolant
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. Re: Loss of coolant
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

5. HOW MANY HOSES
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

6. Torsion bar adjustment
From: Swoyerzone_at_dml_aol.com

7. Re: Odd Firing
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

8. Funny Delorean Story
From: <krasniy_at_dml_krasniy.com>

9. Re: Loss of coolant
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

10. Message Traffic
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>

11. Re: Loss of coolant
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

12. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: "Me" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

13. Re: Loss of coolant
From: "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

14. Re: HOW MANY HOSES
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com

15. Broken (front) hood release
From: "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>

16. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>

17. (unknown)
From: Rendy Cheng <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>

18. RE: Funny Delorean Story
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>

19. Re: HOW MANY HOSES
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

20. Re: Funny Delorean Story
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>

21. Re: Message Traffic
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>

22. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

23. Re: A BTTF Halloween
From: mr wilber <mwwilber2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>

24. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

25. Re: Loss of coolant
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:48:43 EDT
From: kKoncelik_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Magazine

Well we are getting near publishing the next issue
If anyone has an article they want in this or the next issue please submit it 
now.

We are near full already for both issues but we can alwasy find room (or make 
the magazine bigger) 

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 02:50:08 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: hard starting when cold?

Oops -- turned around wrong way. Remember: this is a european car --
switches grounds, not supply. Cold start valve receives 12v whenever
starter engaged. Thermal time switch opens & closes ground.

Ensure 12v into valve on white/red wire as starter turns.

Just run 12v into valve from jump start post and ground to the block.
If valve pumps, know you've got a bad thermal time switch (or wiring
to it bad).

Sorry about cold start tube. Totally forgot valve bolted to top of the
thing. Am hazard to myself sometimes...

Oh, re-read "no pump attached to fuel delivery system" statement. What
I meant to say was "no ACCELERATOR pump attached to fuel delivery
system". Of course is a big electric one...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> In a message dated 9/29/03 4:19:11 PM Central Daylight Time, 
>
> Based on this information i assume either:
> 1. cold start valve may have voltage but isn't grounding.  where is the 
> ground and how do i test it with a meter?
> 2. cold start valve internal actuator or whatever is in there is
permanantly 
> stalled and won't move to allow gas thru when receiving power.
> 3. thermotime switch isn't putting out proper signal voltage to cold
start 
> valve. is 4 volts all it needs?
> 





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 02:58:57 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

If you're concerned about warpage do a compression test. Will either
keep you awake at night or allow you to sleep.

Now, about those hoses:

See Message #34049. Are far too many DeLo's running around on 22 year
old hoses. Disasters waiting to happen. ALL of them need to be
replaced (don't forget heater core return line under intake manifold).
Also need to replace O rings for "internal" water pipe. Is a chore I
know, but far better than melting your new engine...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_s...>
wrote:
> I just recently picked up VIN 11475 as my first DeLorean.  On the
way home a coolant 
> hose came loose, while I was on the highway.  By the time I pulled
over the temp 
> gauge had just climbed to its highest position just in time for me
to shut the engine 
> off and wait for everything to cool down.  Luckily I had my cell
phone and was only 
> three miles from a friend with extra coolant on hand.  After I
tightened the loose hose 
> back on and refilled it with coolant (it took 2 gallons of
water/coolant) everything was 
> fine, I think.  It there anything that I should be concerned over
(other than another 
> loose coolant hose)?
> 
> Any advice is appreciated!  Thanks!
> 
> Jeff




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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 03:23:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

>From your description of the event it sounds like you didn't hurt the
motor. I would replace all the cooling hoses and clamps and then
pressure test to 15 psi for 15 minutes. If it holds you are probably
OK. Check that both cooling fans run, the fans are not loose on the
motors, and that they are pulling air through the radiator. Upgrade
the relay for the fans and the circuit breaker. Bleed the radiator and
the water pump.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> I just recently picked up VIN 11475 as my first DeLorean.  On the
way home a coolant 
> hose came loose, while I was on the highway.  By the time I pulled
over the temp 
> gauge had just climbed to its highest position just in time for me
to shut the engine 





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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 20:31:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: HOW MANY HOSES

How many vacuum hoses are there?  I've got the main three connected  from the thermal control valve to the correct places I think? I've got the one to the dist. to the solenoid and the other three short hoses to the warm-up regulator and of coarse the purge valve the intake manifold but is there any others?  Because as stated before I had an extra one.



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:48:45 EDT
From: Swoyerzone_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Torsion bar adjustment

Ok I have another question. Back in January I had a new driver door strut put 
on. The mechanics at the time told me that the original gave out (anyone who 
may remember my struggle with the garage that nearly destroyed my car, well 
these were the people who replaced it). The new strut was placed on the day I 
got the car back. Now I noticed that the Driver door limps and it seems to get 
worse. The passenger door works fine. If this is a Torsion bar problem how do I 
go about fixing this? And more important is it fixable?

Thanks
Darryl
5898


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 05:01:18 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Odd Firing

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> PRV in final version was also converted to 60 degrees. I believe this
> is engine Chrysler Eagles used.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939

It is true that the final version of the PRV as we know it was 3.0
litres, and was even-fire. But it was still a 90 degree block, with
wet jacket type cylinders.

The 60 degree 3.0L V6 motor commonly found in almost all Chrysler &
associated cars (optional/base motor available on all cars, and
minivans except sub-compacts) is un unrelated engine made by Mitsubishi.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 08:10:36 -0400
From: <krasniy_at_dml_krasniy.com>
Subject: Funny Delorean Story

As many of you know I recently joined the DMC Family with the purchase
of vin #6029 ... I was looking around for local part sources and entered
Autozone in PC Florida... I asked an employee(late teens or early 20s)
about Delorean DMC-12 parts and he was honest and didn't know so he
called the apparent expert on cars who happened to be an employee in his
50s-60s and said Yep I am the Autozone expert, what am I looking for?  I
replied parts for my Delorean, sir. He is like Oh that's a great car and
asked if I knew that Delorean is really made by GMC and that was why
they couldn't locate the car under DMC or Delorean (implying that I was
stupid for not knowing this basic knowledge also). I was like "uhm
NO....it is made by DMC". He was insistent that it was GMC on the front
of the car and that I was mistaken. By this time there was a crowd
forming....the guy was trying to make me look like an idiot in front of
his fellow employees. I sent my friend to the vehicle I was driving
since I had some great photos of my car in there and pointed to the
closeup of DMC on the front grill. He was like isnt this the car GMC
made in Europe? If so perhaps the D is G like Germany is when it is
spelled in German. I was bad :) I laughed and so did my friend who was
buying a part for his Trans Am while we were there. "DMC stands for
Delorean Motor Company and has NOTHING to do with GMC" Not missing a
beat the guy was like YOU KNOW you are right... The V8 engine is MADE BY
GMC ans that is where he made his error :) I was like "Nope, The engine
is a Volvo V6"...people were laughing at him (including the younger
workers and customers alike as this guy spoke like a megaphone dunno
why) and since my friend had made his purchase in the other line, I
figured it was time to leave this Auto Expert to help some other
customers ROFL :)




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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 08:16:10 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

In a message dated 9/29/03 9:14:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_sbcglobal.net writes:

> After I tightened the loose hose 
> back on and refilled it with coolant (it took 2 gallons of water/coolant) 
> everything was 
> fine, I think.  It there anything that I should be concerned over (other 
> than another 
> loose coolant hose)?
> 
> Any advice is appreciated!  Thanks!

As long as the needle didn't stay up there too long, you should be ok.  how 
does it run now that everything is fixed? the block is pretty tough and takes a 
bit to really mess it up.

since you are a new owner, get ready to spend some money.  if everything is 
original, you should seriously take a hard look at ALL of the rubber coolant 
lines.  if they have any cracks, feel brittle, look glazed, or have soft spots 
or tumors on them, replace them all.  while you are at it, you may want to 
replace the radiator with a better 3-row design w/o plastic end caps (known for 
leaks).  in fact, you may choose to go all out and replace the waterpump while 
you are it!  at the very least, pressure test your cooling system now and make 
sure it holds 15 lbs for at least 10 minutes.  also install a self-bleeder kit 
so you make sure to get all of the air pockets out.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 09:44:41 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller_at_dml_mchsi.com>
Subject: Message Traffic

I have been away from my PC for 11 days.
 
The total messages in my inbox from each of these three DeLorean email
groups is as follows.
 
DMCFORUM = 360
 
DELOREAN MAILING LIST = 233
 
DELOREAN OWNERS UK = 123
 
I might be able to wade through these this week.
 
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:07:17 -0400
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

Jeff,
sounds like you got to it in time. I always try and find out WHAT caused the problem. The cooling system to me is one of the most important things on this car. I would at the very least check every coolant hose (I think there are about 20+ total) and make sure they are all clamped and the rubber feels soft. If in doubt just replace each rubber hose. It's an afternoon job but it will make sure your cooling system is sound. 

Did the hose blow from heat or did it come off and then you lost coolant? Make sure the otterstat is coming on and turning the fans on. If you need info on that just ask. When you lean inside the engine it is on the left side under the aluminum coolant pipe.

Mike C
2109



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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:41:47 -0500
From: "Me" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

Marc,

Yep, I was the one who put a '94 Vortec 4.3 in my DeLorean.  The cost was
actually under $3k and I did all the work myself.  I'd like to give everyone
some info who is looking into doing a swap to a Chevy engine atleast. I've
had the engine in there for about 3 years now and the only problems I've had
is one bad alternator and one bad water pump which, of course, I was able to
get locally for under $30 and with a lifetime warranty.    The reason I
chose the 4.3 is simple.  It would fit without MAJOR changes to the engine
compartment and is VERY reliable plus they are readily available at any
junkyard for under $700.  There is such a HUGE aftermarket for the Chevy
that you can find all kinds of brackets.  I didn't have to fabricate the
alternator/AC brackets...Alan Grove components already makes a huge
selection of them ($30 to $120).  The only brackets I had to fabricate were
the engine mounting brackets.  Believe me, I would have loved to go with a
V8, but I wanted to do this cost effectively and without putting a major
strain on the stock auto tranny.  Here is the big key to a DeLorean engine
swap.  If you go with over 230 hp (conservatively) you will end up having
problems with the stock tranny.  This is the weak point for a swap!  Anyone
thinking of a swap please take this into consideration before putting in an
engine.  It won't do you much good if you have 405 hp bolted up to a stock
DeLorean tranny. However, I will be receiving on Wednesday, a Porsche 915
tranny from a '72 Porsche 911.  The reason I chose the 915 tranny is because
of its size and fit for the DeLorean, the reason I chose a early model is
there is no computer control.  After extensive measuring, it will mount
EXACTLY the same way to the Chevy engine(length wise) as my auto D does now
so I won't have to refit anything to put in the tranny plus there will be
ALOT of room towards the front of the car to worry about linkage.  I will
have to fabricate the linkage and also mounting brackets (which the only
part that concerns me is the linkage)  Also, there are alot of Porsche
owners who want to put Chevy engines (and other types) into their Porsches
so, using a Porsche tranny opens up alot of different engine possibilities.
Look at  www.kennedyeng.com or www.renegadehybrids.com for info.  I'm going
to have other problems with the tranny swap however, since mine is a auto
but I don't think this will be a MAJOR setback.  After pricing all the items
needed for this swap, and taking into consideration that some problems will
surely arise, the swap should cost me no more than $2,500 if that. (keep in
mind, with that figure, I'll have to get pedals, shifter, etc since I don't
have a 5 speed already; so with a 5 speed it would probably be alot less)
Well worth the fact that, if the 915's are as good as everyone says they
are, I'll have a bullet proof tranny and a durable proven motor that I can
start building on.  When I started my swap, alot of people told me it
wouldn't be feasible/cost effective to put a Chevy engine in the
DeLorean...well, truth be told, it was EXTREMELY easy to put the Chevy
engine in there.  In fact, if I would have known how easy it was, I would
have done it a LONG time ago. My issue was that the DeLorean was always
giving me problems and I just wanted a fun car to drive.  Every week though
it seemed something was wrong with it or something would break then, I'd
have to wait for a few days for parts and pay out the $$$.  Now, I know alot
of people will defend the DeLorean and say "How can you say that? I've never
had a problem out of mine!!?!"  Well, good...that may be true for you but it
wasn't the case for me and that's why I went for the swap.  Also, I was no
experienced mechanic by any means at the time I did my swap but I was able
to make it work and its worked well.  After I completed the engine swap, I
decided to convert my '95 T/A to a 6 speed instead of an auto.  Looking
back, I'd say that was a harder swap than the D engine swap.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Levy" <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Swap-Out


> I disagree with the statement below.
>
> $5K to get a extra 70HP out of a 20+ year old engine
> is a awful lot of money.  My conversion will be
> between 260-300HP, and (best I can tell at this point)
> will be about the same cost.  When I am done, I will
> have a modern technology engine with higher output and
> better fuel economy than the PRV.  More importantly,
> the ability to go to any junkyard or auto part store
> to get parts for the engine.
>
> I can guess that some may think "Yea, but your project
> is not done!"  True, and in the end if it even works I
> may blow my target price..  However, I believe the
> documented Chevy V6 conversions have been under the
> $5k price point.  This may have been Duke?
>
> See:
> http://www.geocities.com/deloreanvortec/swap1.html
>
>
> --- Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com> wrote:
> <SNIP>
> > So before you go ripping out your PRV, consider
> > DMC-Houston's power mods. Their exhaust system alone
> > gives about 20 hp, and their stage 3 enhancements
> > give 70 hp. I don't think you could get 70 extra hp
> > in a DeLo any cheaper than their $5k upgrade. Plus
> > you're keeping your car pretty much original... and
> > it wouldn't be hard to return it that way.
> ><SNIP>
>




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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 16:36:39 -0000
From: "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

Thanks for the advice.  The hose blew off because the previous owner 
had jerry-rigged a hose.  I'll try to explain where the hose is: hose 
coming out of the engine block curving around the belt on the drivers 
side and attaching again to a pipe towards the bottom of the engine 
compartment.  He had spliced two hoses together with a plastic 
fitting and some clamps.  I have now ordered a replacement hose from 
Delorean One.  Not going to drive it until it arrives.  Its probably 
a good idea for me to check the rest of the hoses as well.

What is an otterstat?  The fans seem to be coming on.  I am thinking 
about ordering Fanzilla.  The info on their website make it sound 
like the best thing ever.  Does it really do anything?

It there any particular brand of coolant you would recommend?  Thanks 
again.

Jeff


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, billsfanmd_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Jeff,
> sounds like you got to it in time. I always try and find out WHAT 
caused the problem. The cooling system to me is one of the most 
important things on this car. I would at the very least check every 
coolant hose (I think there are about 20+ total) and make sure they 
are all clamped and the rubber feels soft. If in doubt just replace 
each rubber hose. It's an afternoon job but it will make sure your 
cooling system is sound. 
> 
> Did the hose blow from heat or did it come off and then you lost 
coolant? Make sure the otterstat is coming on and turning the fans 
on. If you need info on that just ask. When you lean inside the 
engine it is on the left side under the aluminum coolant pipe.
> 
> Mike C
> 2109




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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 12:40:26 -0400
From: billsfanmd_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: HOW MANY HOSES

I think there are 11 vac hoses.

mike c



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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 16:51:15 -0000
From: "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Broken (front) hood release

To go along with the loss of coolant story, another funny thing 
happened after I pulled over to let the car cool down.  I reached 
down to pull the hood release (to get my tools out to tighten the 
lose hose) and the cable broke off from the release lever.  Now the 
cable is up inside the platic sheathing.  How do I fix this?  I am 
sure this has happened to many others before.....

Thanks again!

Jeff





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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:58:02 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

Me

Is the automatic from the 72 Porsche a 3 speed or 4 speed?  Does it say 
ZF 3HP20?  or 3HP22?

The Ds was a 3HP18.  The last two numbers are the clutch pack size. 
 Higher is better.

BOB




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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:09:06 -0700
From: Rendy Cheng <rcheng_at_dml_eng.umd.edu>
Subject: (unknown)

Does anyone know the proper heigh of step (the one in contact with 
cluth) on the flywheel?



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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:18:47 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jack_at_dml_sacketmansion.com>
Subject: RE: Funny Delorean Story

This is weird indeed.  I had a similar fight at a local Autozone here in
Northern NY.  I argued with him for about 3 minutes about the EXACT same
thing GMC/DMC.  He kept giving me this sarcastic look like I was ignorant
about my own car.  I used the same arguments you did and he never believed
me.  Maybe they are trained that way from corporate?

_______________________________
Jack Stiefel - Radio Cape Vincent
Live Internet Radio at http://www.radiocapevincent.com
Take a trip to the historic http://www.sacketmansion.com
Proud member of the http://www.audiorealm.com

-----Original Message-----
From: krasniy_at_dml_krasniy.com [mailto:krasniy_at_dml_krasniy.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:11 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Funny Delorean Story

As many of you know I recently joined the DMC Family with the purchase
of vin #6029 ... I was looking around for local part sources and entered
Autozone in PC Florida... I asked an employee(late teens or early 20s)
about Delorean DMC-12 parts and he was honest and didn't know so he
called the apparent expert on cars who happened to be an employee in his
50s-60s and said Yep I am the Autozone expert, what am I looking for?  I
replied parts for my Delorean, sir. He is like Oh that's a great car and
asked if I knew that Delorean is really made by GMC and that was why
they couldn't locate the car under DMC or Delorean (implying that I was
stupid for not knowing this basic knowledge also). I was like "uhm
NO....it is made by DMC". He was insistent that it was GMC on the front
of the car and that I was mistaken. By this time there was a crowd
forming....the guy was trying to make me look like an idiot in front of
his fellow employees. I sent my friend to the vehicle I was driving
since I had some great photos of my car in there and pointed to the
closeup of DMC on the front grill. He was like isnt this the car GMC
made in Europe? If so perhaps the D is G like Germany is when it is
spelled in German. I was bad :) I laughed and so did my friend who was
buying a part for his Trans Am while we were there. "DMC stands for
Delorean Motor Company and has NOTHING to do with GMC" Not missing a
beat the guy was like YOU KNOW you are right... The V8 engine is MADE BY
GMC ans that is where he made his error :) I was like "Nope, The engine
is a Volvo V6"...people were laughing at him (including the younger
workers and customers alike as this guy spoke like a megaphone dunno
why) and since my friend had made his purchase in the other line, I
figured it was time to leave this Auto Expert to help some other
customers ROFL :)



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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 13:58:28 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: HOW MANY HOSES

In a message dated 9/30/03 11:25:58 AM Central Daylight Time, 
john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

> How many vacuum hoses are there?  I've got the main three connected  from 
> the thermal control valve to the correct places I think? I've got the one to 
> the dist. to the solenoid and the other three short hoses to the warm-up 
> regulator and of coarse the purge valve the intake manifold but is there any 
> others?  Because as stated before I had an extra one.

Hmm....

3 hoses from thermal control valve. one goes to manifold vac, one to the CPR, 
one to the advance solenoid.

from the one hose that goes to the CPR from the TCV, it branches off into a 
loop with the vacuum delay valve for a 20 sec wait until upper and lower 
chamber equalization under full throttle. there should be a T intersection with one 
side going into the front of the CPR, and other going into the vacuum delay 
valve (not mounted on anything, just hangs there), and then to the back of the 
CPR (back is rear of car, not back of engine).

1 short hose goes from the advance solenoid to the vacuum advance diaphragm 
on the side of the distributor.

1 hose goes from the bundle coming out of the charcoal canister in the 
driver's side pontoon and goes down into the lower half of the air meter assembly 
(long hose).

1 thick hose goes from the side of the oil cap to the cold start valve pipe 
(PCV system)

1 thinner hose goes from the charcoal canister to the cold start valve pipe 
also (EVAP purge system)

There are also a few hoses that go to the climate control system and the 
brake booster, but I assume those weren't touched?  IIRC, they are not visible 
outside of the pontoon, so i doubt a mechanic would find them unless he really 
dug around.

Andy



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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 11:03:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Enid/Jeremiah <hispanicangeleyes_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Funny Delorean Story

This is why I don't trust anyone off the list or anyone not employed at DMC-Houston/PJ Gradys with my upcoming new baby.  Self-proclaimed experts scare me to death.  Nice showup though!  You'll have to tell us more at PF if you plan on going next summer!

krasniy_at_dml_krasniy.com wrote:As many of you know I recently joined the DMC Family with the purchase
of vin #6029 ... I was looking around for local part sources and entered
Autozone in PC Florida... I asked an employee(late teens or early 20s)
about Delorean DMC-12 parts and he was honest and didn't know so he
called the apparent expert on cars who happened to be an employee in his
50s-60s and said Yep I am the Autozone expert, what am I looking for? I
replied parts for my Delorean, sir. He is like Oh that's a great car and
asked if I knew that Delorean is really made by GMC and that was why
they couldn't locate the car under DMC or Delorean (implying that I was
stupid for not knowing this basic knowledge also). I was like "uhm
NO....it is made by DMC". He was insistent that it was GMC on the front
of the car and that I was mistaken. By this time there was a crowd
forming....the guy was trying to make me look like an idiot in front of
his fellow employees. I sent my friend to the vehicle I was driving
since I had some great photos of my car in there and pointed to the
closeup of DMC on the front grill. He was like isnt this the car GMC
made in Europe? If so perhaps the D is G like Germany is when it is
spelled in German. I was bad :) I laughed and so did my friend who was
buying a part for his Trans Am while we were there. "DMC stands for
Delorean Motor Company and has NOTHING to do with GMC" Not missing a
beat the guy was like YOU KNOW you are right... The V8 engine is MADE BY
GMC ans that is where he made his error :) I was like "Nope, The engine
is a Volvo V6"...people were laughing at him (including the younger
workers and customers alike as this guy spoke like a megaphone dunno
why) and since my friend had made his purchase in the other line, I
figured it was time to leave this Auto Expert to help some other
customers ROFL :)



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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 19:21:48 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd_at_dml_usa.irene.net>
Subject: Re: Message Traffic

Oh wow....I left for 14 days. Came back to 764 incoming mail 
messages. Of these, about 5 were not DMC-related. Then I got 40 more 
the same day. Anyone ever clear 800?




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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 19:39:42 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

An excellent article!

I have one question for you. I have always been concerned about an 
increase in the weight bias. How much extra weight did you put back 
there? Any? 

I was told the Rover V-8 swap only adds 50 extra pounds. -If- I were 
to do an engine swap, I'd like to do it your way but I'd like to know 
how much extra weight there was first.

The fact that you did this WITHOUT being an experienced mechanic is 
incredible.

Rich
#5335


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Me" <at88mph_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> Marc,
> 
> Yep, I was the one who put a '94 Vortec 4.3 in my DeLorean.  The 
cost was
> actually under $3k and I did all the work myself.  I'd like to give 
everyone
> some info who is looking into doing a swap to a Chevy engine 
atleast. I've
> had the engine in there for about 3 years now and the only problems 
I've had
> is one bad alternator and one bad water pump which, of course, I 
was able to
> get locally for under $30 and with a lifetime warranty.    The 
reason I
> chose the 4.3 is simple.  It would fit without MAJOR changes to the 
engine
> compartment and is VERY reliable plus they are readily available at 
any
> junkyard for under $700.  There is such a HUGE aftermarket for the 
Chevy
> that you can find all kinds of brackets.  I didn't have to 
fabricate the
> alternator/AC brackets...Alan Grove components already makes a huge
> selection of them ($30 to $120).  The only brackets I had to 
fabricate were
> the engine mounting brackets.  Believe me, I would have loved to go 
with a
> V8, but I wanted to do this cost effectively and without putting a 
major
> strain on the stock auto tranny.  Here is the big key to a DeLorean 
engine
> swap.  If you go with over 230 hp (conservatively) you will end up 
having
> problems with the stock tranny.  This is the weak point for a 
swap!  Anyone
> thinking of a swap please take this into consideration before 
putting in an
> engine.  It won't do you much good if you have 405 hp bolted up to 
a stock
> DeLorean tranny. However, I will be receiving on Wednesday, a 
Porsche 915
> tranny from a '72 Porsche 911.  The reason I chose the 915 tranny 
is because
> of its size and fit for the DeLorean, the reason I chose a early 
model is
> there is no computer control.  After extensive measuring, it will 
mount
> EXACTLY the same way to the Chevy engine(length wise) as my auto D 
does now
> so I won't have to refit anything to put in the tranny plus there 
will be
> ALOT of room towards the front of the car to worry about linkage.  
I will
> have to fabricate the linkage and also mounting brackets (which the 
only
> part that concerns me is the linkage)  Also, there are alot of 
Porsche
> owners who want to put Chevy engines (and other types) into their 
Porsches
> so, using a Porsche tranny opens up alot of different engine 
possibilities.
> Look at  www.kennedyeng.com or www.renegadehybrids.com for info.  
I'm going
> to have other problems with the tranny swap however, since mine is 
a auto
> but I don't think this will be a MAJOR setback.  After pricing all 
the items
> needed for this swap, and taking into consideration that some 
problems will
> surely arise, the swap should cost me no more than $2,500 if that. 
(keep in
> mind, with that figure, I'll have to get pedals, shifter, etc since 
I don't
> have a 5 speed already; so with a 5 speed it would probably be alot 
less)
> Well worth the fact that, if the 915's are as good as everyone says 
they
> are, I'll have a bullet proof tranny and a durable proven motor 
that I can
> start building on.  When I started my swap, alot of people told me 
it
> wouldn't be feasible/cost effective to put a Chevy engine in the
> DeLorean...well, truth be told, it was EXTREMELY easy to put the 
Chevy
> engine in there.  In fact, if I would have known how easy it was, I 
would
> have done it a LONG time ago. My issue was that the DeLorean was 
always
> giving me problems and I just wanted a fun car to drive.  Every 
week though
> it seemed something was wrong with it or something would break 
then, I'd
> have to wait for a few days for parts and pay out the $$$.  Now, I 
know alot
> of people will defend the DeLorean and say "How can you say that? 
I've never
> had a problem out of mine!!?!"  Well, good...that may be true for 
you but it
> wasn't the case for me and that's why I went for the swap.  Also, I 
was no
> experienced mechanic by any means at the time I did my swap but I 
was able
> to make it work and its worked well.  After I completed the engine 
swap, I
> decided to convert my '95 T/A to a 6 speed instead of an auto.  
Looking
> back, I'd say that was a harder swap than the D engine swap.
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marc Levy" <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...>
> To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 9:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Swap-Out
> 
> 
> > I disagree with the statement below.
> >
> > $5K to get a extra 70HP out of a 20+ year old engine
> > is a awful lot of money.  My conversion will be
> > between 260-300HP, and (best I can tell at this point)
> > will be about the same cost.  When I am done, I will
> > have a modern technology engine with higher output and
> > better fuel economy than the PRV.  More importantly,
> > the ability to go to any junkyard or auto part store
> > to get parts for the engine.
> >
> > I can guess that some may think "Yea, but your project
> > is not done!"  True, and in the end if it even works I
> > may blow my target price..  However, I believe the
> > documented Chevy V6 conversions have been under the
> > $5k price point.  This may have been Duke?
> >
> > See:
> > http://www.geocities.com/deloreanvortec/swap1.html
> >
> >
> > --- Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> > <SNIP>
> > > So before you go ripping out your PRV, consider
> > > DMC-Houston's power mods. Their exhaust system alone
> > > gives about 20 hp, and their stage 3 enhancements
> > > give 70 hp. I don't think you could get 70 extra hp
> > > in a DeLo any cheaper than their $5k upgrade. Plus
> > > you're keeping your car pretty much original... and
> > > it wouldn't be hard to return it that way.
> > ><SNIP>
> >




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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:37:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: mr wilber <mwwilber2003_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A BTTF Halloween

*****  Moderator's Note  *****
Please respond to Matt directly.... Thanks.

Mike G - Moderator of the Week
*****

Hey I would love to have one!!! Please contact me by phone or e-mail ASAP to get this set up. I live in Salt Lake City UT. My Cell is 801-403-6405. My e-mail is mwwilber2003_at_dml_yahoo.com. Hope to hear from you soon Thanks Matt.

john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
If I remember correctly the radiation suits they wore in the movie are just blank tyvek suits.They arent for radiation at all they are for protection from chemicals we use them where I work.Im not sure if ours look exactly like the ones in the movie but they would be free except for shipping if you havent already got something.Any screen printing shop would be able to ad the radiation logo for cheap.


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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 19:12:04 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

Bob,

I haven't gotten the numbers off the tranny, however, its a '72 915, o.e.
from a 1972 911T.  My DeLorean tranny is the auto :)

Duke

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Brandys" <BobB_at_dml_safety-epa.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Swap-Out


> Me
>
> Is the automatic from the 72 Porsche a 3 speed or 4 speed?  Does it say
> ZF 3HP20?  or 3HP22?
>
> The Ds was a 3HP18.  The last two numbers are the clutch pack size.
>  Higher is better.
>
> BOB
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>




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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:06:34 -0400
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

In a message dated 9/30/2003 12:36:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_sbcglobal.net writes:

> 
> What is an otterstat?  The fans seem to be coming on. 

The otterstat is the switch clipped into the coolant pipe at the bottom of the driver's side, which that hose you burst goes to.  it has two wires coming off of it.  it is a temperature-sensitive switch that tells the cooling fans when to come on, so they aren't running when they don't need to be.  i think this happens around 180-190 degF?  check the shop manual.   btw, if the wires are pointing upward, loosen both of the clamps on each side and turn the pipe upside down so the switch is on the bottom. this will eliminate bubble build-up on the switch which can cause the fans to come on too late.

 I am thinking 
> about ordering Fanzilla.  The info on their website make it sound 
> like the best thing ever.  Does it really do anything?
>

Fanzilla doesn't give you better cooling capacity or anything - it just makes the fans turn on sequentially instead of both at once, which is a major current draw which can cause melt-down of wiring.
 
> It there any particular brand of coolant you would 
> recommend?  Thanks 
> again.

Any top-shelf green-colored antifreeze is good.  make sure it is safe for aluminium engines and stay away from the orange Dex-cool antifreeze.  mix it 50/50 with distilled water and change it every two years.

Andy



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