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Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1690
Date: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 6:26 AM

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There are 11 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: "at88mph" <>

2. Re: Loss of coolant
From: Todd Masinelli <>

3. almost tuned
From: John Podlewski <>

4. Turkey Rod Run Car Show
From: "geek123y" <>

5. rain
From: John Podlewski <>

6. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: Josh Keady <>

7. Re: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

8. Re: Funny Delorean Story
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

9. Re: Loss of coolant
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>

10. Re: Broken (front) hood release
From: "aaron_t_graham" <>

11. Re: Engine Swap-Out
From: Jim Strickland <>

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 19:37:23 -0500
From: "at88mph" <>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

>. How much extra weight did you put back
> there? Any?

The weight is actually about the same (within 20-30 lbs and probably less
than that since I took off most of the stock serpentine belt brackets due to
space)  Chevy shows "shipping weight" being 434 lbs. Handling wise, I
haven't noticed any difference.

> The fact that you did this WITHOUT being an experienced mechanic is
> incredible.

Well, think about it this way.  You're just replacing a engine.  What I mean
is, your taking out an engine and putting another one in.  You're not
tearing into the engine, installing cam, valves, rocker rollers, timing
chain,'re just putting in something else. (if ya understand what I
mean)  Knowing that there's enough space there to do it (and I did b/c
Darryl Tennerset and Mike Bell had done the swap so it must fit!) all you
have to do is find a way to mount it and wire it up.  (well, there is more
to it than that, but I think you understand my point)  Heck, for that
matter, you could go with an earlier 4.3 that has no computer and you
wouldn't even have to worry about that.  However, the wiring is actually
really simple and you could easily wire any engine to fit into the
compartment.  I just went with the 94 b/c there's more power and fuel
effectiveness by a computer controlled setup.  Also, I was able to wire up
the OBDI connector so I can troubleshoot any problems I may have.  I just
used the 'lambda' light for the 'service engine soon' light. If it throws a
code, my 'lambda' light comes on :)  I was able to do the entire install in
9 months and could have it done alot sooner if I didn't hate cold weather
soooo much ;)

I  also have to give ALOT of thanks to others such as Mike Bell and Darryl
Tennerset for their info and advice on the engine swap and most recently Jim
Strictland and Bob Brandys with their info on the Porsche tranny setup.
This is also a big factor when you can talk to others who have actually done
the swap to get info if you get stuck.  They were invaluable with my setup
and I invite anyone who is thinking of doing this similar swap to call on me
if needed for info.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "cruznmd" <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Engine Swap-Out

>. How much extra weight did you put back
> there? Any?

> The fact that you did this WITHOUT being an experienced mechanic is
> incredible.
> Rich
> #5335


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:02:37 -0500
From: Todd Masinelli <>
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

> What is an otterstat?

Look for a little doohickey with two wires running to it that's sticking out
of a coolant pipe on the driver's side of your engine.  The otterstat tells
your fans to kick on when your coolant reaches a certain temperature.
Ideally you'll find it on the underside of the pipe...if it's on top, an air
bubble can get trapped there and your fans won't kick on when they should.

Hank Eskin has a very helpful site for DeLorean newbies
(  Here are two otterstat pictures
from his site:

> I am thinking about ordering Fanzilla.  The info on
> their website make it sound like the best thing ever.
> Does it really do anything?

Yes, it does.  The common benefit you'll hear about is that it staggers the
starting of the fans so you don't have a huge pull on the car's electrical
system all at once.  That's great, but for me the biggest benefit of the
FanZilla was one that I never saw anybody advertise -- the fact that it
completely bypasses the circuit breaker that leads to the fan relay and the
fan fail module.  Considering the hot feed from that breaker is what
appeared to have fried TWO fused wire jumpers in my car to a nasty crisp, I
wish I had purchased the FanZilla sooner.  Luckily neither incident led to a
major fire, but they certainly could have.  Go ahead and spring for the
FanZilla and have one less thing to have to worry about with your new D.

Good luck!

Todd Masinelli
VIN 6681


Message: 3
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 18:25:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <>
Subject: almost tuned

Well took everything off the top of engine and I got have way putting everything back correctly,  just to be sure.  THANKS TO ALL SO FAR.  A couple of vacuum hoses were on wrong and hoping its just the timing right now.  I'll check it tomorrow and also I'll clean out the warm-up reg. since I'm in there anyway.  Also noticed I'm missing one fuel injector clip on the #1 (was there before I bought it in to the very bad mechanic, of course).  Any other thoughts, idles around 1000rpm's but does not go above 1 MPH. 

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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 01:37:45 -0000
From: "geek123y" <>
Subject: Turkey Rod Run Car Show

Turkey Rod Run Car Show and Swap Meet is Thursday, November 27th 
(Thanksgiving) thru Sunday, November 30th,  2003 at the Daytona 
Beach International Speedway.

Show Car Parking on the Speedway Infield can be accessed at the back 
of the track off Midway Avenue through either Gate 70 or Gate 50 on 
Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday.  Show car admission is $20.00 
for Sunday only.  Gates open at 7am, show cars will be stopped after 
12 noon.  Ending time is about 3 pm.   We would like to make a big 
showing for Sunday since they will not recognize us as a collectable 
car or muscle car.  We can all go in together and park on the 
infield in a group.  Over 5600 cars last year and only 2 DeLoreans 
that we could find.  

Please let us know if you would be interested in participating.  

Ken #2700


Message: 5
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 18:42:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <>
Subject: rain

Quick question when I was putting the air intake manifold on.  It rained for two days, drizzled,  although, it took about one and a half days to take everything off and put everything back correctly due to the rain and among other things.  Everything was pretty much covered of course but I did notice a little moisture(not puddles of water just moisture around  IN and  AROUND  the cylinders.  Is this something that I should be majorly concerned about,  obviously I don't have a garage but I did dry everything the best I could. Is this something that a quick oil change will fix????

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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 19:01:59 -0700
From: Josh Keady <>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

I've been looking for it, but haven't read it yet in this thread,

What are you going to do for a bellhousing on the Porsche-Chevy combo?



Message: 7
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 02:19:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar adjustment

You can try switching the door struts side to side and see how that
works. Also go to and click technical. Look up doors.
There is a simple test for torsion bar adjustment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, Swoyerzone_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Ok I have another question. Back in January I had a new driver door
strut put 
> on. The mechanics at the time told me that the original gave out
(anyone who 
> may remember my struggle with the garage that nearly destroyed my
car, well 
> these were the people who replaced it). The new strut was placed on
the day I 
> got the car back. Now I noticed that the Driver door limps and it
seems to get 
> worse. The passenger door works fine. If this is a Torsion bar
problem how do I 
> go about fixing this? And more important is it fixable?
> Thanks
> Darryl
> 5898
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Message: 8
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 02:27:18 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Funny Delorean Story

When I go to car shows and cruise nights I like to stand back and
evesdrop on people's conversations as they walk up to the Delorean.
There is always a self-appointed expert that will tell the group about
how JZD is still in jail for trying to sell drugs, the car was built
by GM, they used a GM engine in it, the car was no good, you can't get
parts, etc, etc. It seems if the "expert" doesn't know something he
just makes it up on the spot. I try to correct some of it but I always
wonder if anyone really listens. At his point many of the younger kids
haven't even seen the movie so they don't know what I mean when I ask
them if they have seen Back To The Future! The doors do usually
impress them though.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  

--- In, <krasniy_at_dml_k...> wrote:
> As many of you know I recently joined the DMC Family with the purchase
> of vin #6029 ... I was looking around for local part sources and entered
> Autozone in PC Florida... I asked an employee(late teens or early 20s)
> about Delorean DMC-12 parts and he was honest and didn't know so he
> called the apparent expert on cars who happened to be an employee in 


Message: 9
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 02:37:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <>
Subject: Re: Loss of coolant

It sounds like the origional hose had the fan belt wear through it so
the P.O. spliced it. When you replace the hose make sure it is away
from the fan belt! Any national brand of permanant anti-freeze is
good. Use an ethelyne-glycol base and mix it 50/50 with soft water. I
highly recomend the Fanzilla. Follow the directions for installation
and testing. It can't fix problems with the cooling system but it
improves the electrical system as it relates to the cooling system
fans. It is a good idea to replace the otterstadt switch and seal when
doing the Fanzilla. Make sure there is a clip or at least a strap tie
on the otterstadt switch and NEVER use any silicone on the seal. If
the hoses are origional they should ALL be replaced.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In, "Jeff Lawson" <jeffrey.lawson_at_dml_s...> wrote:
> Thanks for the advice.  The hose blew off because the previous owner 
> had jerry-rigged a hose.  I'll try to explain where the hose is: hose 


Message: 10
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 02:38:50 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <>
Subject: Re: Broken (front) hood release

Yes, this has happened to many people, and it was common enough (or at
least anticipated) that DMC even issued Service Bulletin ST-21-10/81,
which describes the procedures for opening the hood after the hood
release "fails to operate".

Unfortunately, they don't solicit advice about how to repair or
strengthen the weak links in the hood release mechanism, or to prevent
this occurrence from happening altogether.

I would guess that you should open the hood using the procedures
described in the service bulletin.  Then when you have the hood open,
you might be able to push the cable through the other end so that it
comes out far enough that you can grab it.  If that doesn't work, you
could just replace the entire cable.  I'm not sure how easy that would be.



Message: 11
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 22:12:14 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap-Out

Let's not get ahead of ourselves, Duke.  Anything that takes over a year
to do I would not consider "EXTREMELY easy".  I distinctly remember a
post on the DML when you were trying to sell your car becuase you were
tired of the swap.  

I'm sure there are some swaps that cost less and some that cost more. 
For that matter, I don't know anyone that spent MORE than me on an engine
swap/upgrade- about $15k.  I suppose the northstar conversion is more
expensive though, but I don't know anyone that has paid the $20k for the
conversion.  All said and done though, I got an engine out of a car that
cost $40k in 1990 (Mazda Eunos Cosmo) and a transmission out of a car
that cost $40k in 1995 (Porsche 993).

Like I've said before, sometimes an engine swap is the best solution to
some of the D's problems.  A lot of times, taking care of the PRV will be
cheaper in the long run, as well as maintaining "collector status".  

I found myself in the same position as you, why dump so much money into
20 year old technology?

Sooner or later most "driven" D's will have upgraded engines.  I hear a
lot about changing engines to other types, but who's heard of changing
the engine TO the PRV (3.0, 2.5L not included).  So the driven D's will
continue to be driven, and the collector D's will continue to sit on
blocks or be driven on Sundays.


On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:41:47 -0500 "Me" <>
> Marc,
> Yep, I was the one who put a '94 Vortec 4.3 in my DeLorean.  The cost
> actually under $3k and I did all the work myself.  
> When I started my swap, alot of people told me it
> wouldn't be feasible/cost effective to put a Chevy engine in the
> DeLorean...well, truth be told, it was EXTREMELY easy to put the 
> Chevy engine in there.  In fact, if I would have known how easy it was,
> would have done it a LONG time ago. My issue was that the DeLorean was 
> always giving me problems and I just wanted a fun car to drive.  

> Every week 
> though it seemed something was wrong with it or something would break
> I'd have to wait for a few days for parts and pay out the $$$.  Now, I 
> know alot of people will defend the DeLorean and say "How can you say
> I've never had a problem out of mine!!?!"  Well, good...that may be
true for 
> you but it wasn't the case for me and that's why I went for the swap.  

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