From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1696
Date: Sunday, October 05, 2003 5:55 AM

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There are 18 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Accuracy of charging meter
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

2. Re: No Start
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Re: kicked in the you-know-where
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Re: No Start
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

5. Re: kicked in the you-know-where
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>

6. heater control valve
From: "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>

7. diode location for door ajar/delay lamps
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

8. Your Help Please?!
From: "Daniel Partridge" <lunar_wolf2002_at_dml_yahoo.com>

9. Re: Jerky transmission (?) problem
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>

10. Re: Your Help Please?!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

11. Re: heater control valve
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: No Start
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

13. FUEL
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>

14. Jerky transmission(?) problem SOLVED!
From: Jonathan Lazar <jxace_at_dml_adelphia.net>

15. Re: FUEL
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

16. Correction: heater control valve
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

17. Re: Jerky transmission (?) problem
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

18. RE: heater control valve
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 23:53:48 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: Accuracy of charging meter

I have seen them 1/2 to 1 volt low.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: Payne [mailto:bpayne_at_dml_macnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 9:33 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Accuracy of charging meter


Just because I'm really curious, how accurate is the charging meter in the
DeLorean?  Does it read high or low?

payne


---
[This E-mail Scanned for viruses by Onlinemac.com]



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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 00:24:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: No Start

John, look at the close up pictures of by venturi
howto, it will show exactly where the lines go.

took me about 30 cranks over the couse of an hour,
with pauses to get things going, worked ever since



http://retrosewrver.no-ip.com/deloreanmain.html


jordan 11613





--- John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com> wrote:
> Help!  put intake manifold back on, all vacuum hoses
> in correct order.  But does not start pretty sure
> all fuel lines are on right.  Just which one is the
> return line and which one is the feed line (large
> hoses) that is the only thing i have a ????. Other
> than that it just cranks. The car ran before, at
> least it idled anyway.  What could be causing this,
> it must be something I did or did not do?  By the
> way I checked the inertia switch and it does pump
> fuel to the F.D also the  fuse is good. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product
> search
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
http://shopping.yahoo.com



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 15:42:41 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: kicked in the you-know-where

In hindsight you should have made sure there was no pre-payment
penalty. Try to see if you can get the lease assigned over to another
person so you can sell the car basically if someone else takes over
the payments. Try not to leave your name on the lease because if the
person you sell it to misses any payments they will also go after you
as a co-signer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, KiwiDean_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Aaarrgghh!  I had the opportunity to acquire a lovingly kept 1983
Delorean.  My bank gave me a $15,000 line of credit to buy it, and the
test-drive and vechicle inspection was oh-so-sweet.  But the car I am
currently driving is a leased vehicle, and when I tried to terminate
the lease (as I would not be able to maintain two cars andthat I was
depending on the money saved from the lease to pay back the line of
credit), I was told that it would cost me $8,000 to do so.  Talk about
a kick-in-the-pants!
> 
> Dean Thomas
> (17 Years of Wanting and Waiting)




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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 15:26:49 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: No Start

In a message dated 10/3/03 11:46:48 PM Central Daylight Time, 
john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com writes:

> Help!  put intake manifold back on, all vacuum hoses in correct order.  But 
> does not start pretty sure all fuel lines are on right.  Just which one is 
> the return line and which one is the feed line (large hoses) that is the only 
> thing i have a ????. Other than that it just cranks. The car ran before, at 
> least it idled anyway.  What could be causing this, it must be something I did 
> or did not do?  By the way I checked the inertia switch and it does pump 
> fuel to the F.D also the  fuse is good. 

the feed line comes from the Fuel filter up the driver's side, around the 
back of the motor, and screws in the fuel distributer about the 2 o-clock 
position when looking down on the distributor. takes a pretty large metric wrench.  

do you have a fuel pressure gauge?  i would hook it up and jump the RPM relay 
and check your main line and control pressures and report back to us.  also 
you can check the rate of fuel return to the tank.  pull out the return line in 
the take and put it in a 1 qt jug.  it should fill it up in 30 seconds i 
believe?  check the shop manual in the fuel section to be sure, i haven't had to 
do this in like 3 years.  but, this will tell you if you have a blockage in the 
lower chamber and delivery system.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 17:37:26 -0500
From: Warren Turkal <wturkal_at_dml_cbu.edu>
Subject: Re: kicked in the you-know-where

On Friday 03 October 2003 02:56 pm, KiwiDean_at_dml_aol.com wrote:
> Aaarrgghh!  I had the opportunity to acquire a lovingly kept 1983 Delorean.
>  My bank gave me a $15,000 line of credit to buy it, and the test-drive and
> vechicle inspection was oh-so-sweet.  But the car I am currently driving is
> a leased vehicle, and when I tried to terminate the lease (as I would not
> be able to maintain two cars andthat I was depending on the money saved
> from the lease to pay back the line of credit), I was told that it would
> cost me $8,000 to do so.  Talk about a kick-in-the-pants!

Leases are always rip offs.

wt
-- 
Warren Turkal
President, GOLUM, Inc.
http://www.golum.org




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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 23:15:57 -0000
From: "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: heater control valve

 Hi,

    Somewhere I saw a after market heater control valve but now that I 
need one I can't find it. Was it a Subaru? I've looked in the archives 
 and saw that someone bought one at NAPA but he didn't say what it was 
ment for. 

TIA Steve 1089




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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 20:20:15 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: diode location for door ajar/delay lamps

List,

Can someone tell me exactly where the diodes are for the interior delay 
lamps/door ajar lights/running lights?  if you look on Zilla's diagram, i am 
looking for the diodes labeled '25'.  i believe the purple/white wire between two of 
them has a bad connection, causing my driver's door switch to be unable to 
turn on the delay lamps or door ajar lamp, yet the running lights DO work.  if 
this wire were broken or loose, it would cause exactly the problem i have.

Thanks for the info - 
Andy (getting closer and closer to a 100% functioning car...)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 00:51:52 -0000
From: "Daniel Partridge" <lunar_wolf2002_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Your Help Please?!

Hello all.


      I am Daniel,in Las Vegas, and have been trying to acquire a 
Delorean for the lowest possible price, and have been unuccessful. 
Anyone living in or out of Vegas, please help if you can, I would be 
eternally grateful. Thank you.

Daniel




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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 22:09:34 -0400
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Jerky transmission (?) problem

Could this be a breakdown in the electrical system (possibly coil or 
alternator) causing misfires?

Ed
10541


>Hello All.
>
>I had the strangest occurrence with my DeLorean today.  I was accelerating
>normally from a stop in 1st gear and everything was fine until about 3,000
>rpms and up.  The car started to jerk violently until I shifted into 2nd.  
>But,

_________________________________________________________________
Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now 
FREE!  http://msnmessenger-download.com




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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 02:44:41 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Your Help Please?!

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Daniel Partridge" <
lunar_wolf2002_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Hello all.
> 
> 
>       I am Daniel,in Las Vegas, and have been trying to acquire a 
> Delorean for the lowest possible price, and have been unuccessful. 
> Anyone living in or out of Vegas, please help if you can, I would be 
> eternally grateful. Thank you.
> 
> Daniel

When it comes to the classic car hobby, Las Vegas is perhaps THE most 
unfriendliest place you'll find. Most everyone here that has a classic, or exotic 
car of some sort has had to import it from out of state. Even I am no exception 
to that rule. If it's not a Mustang, a Camaro, or a Corvette, you'll probably need 
to look out of state, 'cause anything that does fit that descirption doesn't really 
come up all that often.  Moreso depending upon your budget, and what 
condition you desire the car to be in (I choose a car that needed an extensive 
restoration for example, for future customization later on).

Speaking of which, what are you budgeting for a car? We all naturally want to 
buy things for the lowest price possible, which is what haggling is for. But if 
you're budgeting for less than $14K or so for a DeLorean in Las Vegas, you're 
probably not going to find it. The last time I saw one sell cheaper than $15K 
was in 1997, and that was a basket case car on a dealer's back lot that didn't 
even run. And yes, it sold.

There is another fellow list member here in Las Vegas that is intererested in 
selling his car. The ad is in the Buy & Sell section of the DMC News website.
http://dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html
I've seen the car, and inspected it. And I can tell you now that the price that 
he's asking for it is honestly worth every penny. But I've no idea if it's still for 
sale.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 02:53:14 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: heater control valve

If you mean the heater core shutoff valve, any 5/8" will do (watch
size of vacuum nipple -- 1/8" or so). I used Factory Air #74612,
stocked by both Autozone and Advance. Differs in appearance from
factory (single piece step down). Is long lived however -- use same
part number on all my Lincolns.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
>  Hi,
> 
>     Somewhere I saw a after market heater control valve but now that I 
> need one I can't find it. Was it a Subaru? I've looked in the archives 
>  and saw that someone bought one at NAPA but he didn't say what it was 
> ment for. 
> 
> TIA Steve 1089




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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 03:05:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: No Start

Watch air sensor plate as engine turns over. Must move down at least
1/16". If it doesn't, you've got a catastrophic vacuum leak. 

Once when seating my manifold got an electrical connector stuck
between it and internal water pipe. Created a major vacuum leak I
wrestled with for several months. Engine ran but I ended up over
enriching.

Did you remove ignition distributor? Can get one tooth off and timing
will be all out of whack.

If you're worried about fuel supply: jump RPM relay, pop out an
injector, and lower air sensor plate manually. If injector sprays
problem is elsewhere.

Make sure you have ignition spark.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Help!  put intake manifold back on, all vacuum hoses in correct
order.  But does not start pretty sure all fuel lines are on right. 
Just which one is the return line and which one is the feed line
(large hoses) that is the only thing i have a ????. Other than that it
just cranks. The car ran before, at least it idled anyway.  What could
be causing this, it must be something I did or did not do?  By the way
I checked the inertia switch and it does pump fuel to the F.D also the
 fuse is good. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 20:09:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: FUEL

Thanks, cruzmd sprayed some starting fluid in the mixture control unit and it did kick over briefly, very brief.  The fuel pump return line was touched and fuel pump pulled out but hose does not appear to be kinked very hard to tell though.  New cap, new rotor, new wires, new vacuum lines all checked double checked and checked again.  It ran before I disconnected the fuel distributor but again all fuel hoses checked, and again checked many times.  I don't have a fuel pressure gage and where is the R.P.M relay and how do I jump it and what would I be looking for.  Tried to crank over 60 times NO GO??? Plugs on, Fuses good!  It's got to be a fuel problem but what could it be?



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
Date: 05 Oct 2003 01:04:32 -0400
From: Jonathan Lazar <jxace_at_dml_adelphia.net>
Subject: Jerky transmission(?) problem SOLVED!

I just want to thank all those who responded to my post.

After removing the fuel pump assembly, I found that one of the fuel
lines in the tank had deteriorated.  After replacing the line, the car
now runs great.


Thanks again!
Jonathan Lazar
# 4494


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 05:09:24 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: FUEL

Engine will run on starting fluid alone, but it's tough on the valves.

RPM relay located under metal bracket in relay compartment, closest to
engine (two other matching relays under there are main and auxiliary).
Remove harness and insert jumper between brown and white/purple
terminals (opposite corners). Pump should spin even without energizing
car.

You could have air trapped in fuel system. Manually operating air
sensor plate, while pump spinning, will bleed through injectors. Louie
G's #10115 (rest its stainless steel soul) didn't catch until we
pumped its plate. Started flawlessly thereafter even with cold start
tube inactive.

Does "plugs on" mean "high voltage passing through plugs" or simply
"plug wires firmly seated"? If the latter, make sure you do indeed
have spark. Is possible you could have knocked ballast resistor wire
loose while working back there, or otherwise interrputed ignition.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski_at_dml_y...>
wrote:
> Thanks, cruzmd sprayed some starting fluid in the mixture control
unit and it did kick over briefly, very brief.  The fuel pump return
line was touched and fuel pump pulled out but hose does not appear to
be kinked very hard to tell though.  New cap, new rotor, new wires,
new vacuum lines all checked double checked and checked again.  It ran
before I disconnected the fuel distributor but again all fuel hoses
checked, and again checked many times.  I don't have a fuel pressure
gage and where is the R.P.M relay and how do I jump it and what would
I be looking for.  Tried to crank over 60 times NO GO??? Plugs on,
Fuses good!  It's got to be a fuel problem but what could it be?
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 05:13:04 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Correction: heater control valve

Meant to say vacuum line into control valve is 1/16" or so (3/32"?).
Apologies.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> If you mean the heater core shutoff valve, any 5/8" will do (watch
> size of vacuum nipple -- 1/8" or so). I used Factory Air #74612,
> stocked by both Autozone and Advance. Differs in appearance from
> factory (single piece step down). Is long lived however -- use same
> part number on all my Lincolns.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "ablemanse" <s.ableman_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> >  Hi,
> > 
> >     Somewhere I saw a after market heater control valve but now
that I 
> > need one I can't find it. Was it a Subaru? I've looked in the
archives 
> >  and saw that someone bought one at NAPA but he didn't say what it
was 
> > ment for. 
> > 
> > TIA Steve 1089




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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2003 05:22:53 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: Jerky transmission (?) problem

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> Could this be a breakdown in the electrical system (possibly coil or 
> alternator) causing misfires?
> 
> Ed
> 10541
<SNIP>

Off hand, I wouldn't think so, since the car has no difficulty revving
when in neutral. Other than a loose wire making a poor connection, or
an ignition wire with poor sheilding touching somthing as the inertial
force moved the wire when the car accelerated, and caused it to ground
it's voltage (never heard of it, but sounds feasable), I really
couldn't think of anything else electrical causing this. The
split/disconnected pickup hose theory sounds like the most logical, if
not common reason for this problem. I too have had it before, and the
symptoms given so far sound exactly like it. But even so, more info is
needed to truly pinpoint the issue.

There are variables such as how deep the fuel pump is mounted, and
then, assuming that a tear, is where exactly the tear on the hose is.
But typicly, everyone who's ever had this problem starts to see it
when the fuel tank reaches the half-way point, and durring hard right
turns.

The other variable here is the rate of acelleration. What one
consideres 'normal' can vary from person to person, and from region to
region. Although, acellerating up an incline would definately make the
problem of a torn/disconnected fuel hose worse, since the fuel pump is
at the front of the tank, and the fuel flows twards the rear. And of
course from a dead stop when you've got to hit the gas for even harder
acceleration to overcome gravity pulling the car backwards.

It's possible it could be tranny mounts, but I would imagine that
there would have been a bit of noticeable banging noises echoing thru
the chassis' backbone accompanying the car's jerking movement.

The clutch *could* be a possability, but still an extreme one at this
point. If there was some sort of a failure in the hydraulic system,
that could indeed cause some sort of premature wear. My record for
toasting a new clutch has been almost 3K miles when the Clutch M/C
failed. But I'm sure if this were the case, there would have already
been some sort of chattering noise (if not grinding), and these
symptoms would have slowly appeared, rather than just suddenly like
this. Where as symptoms like this could suddenly appear if the pickup
hose on the fuel pump were to suddenly come loose, or tear.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 22:23:03 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: heater control valve

Tia Steve, Is't on the web site.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html

-----Original Message-----
From: ablemanse [mailto:s.ableman_at_dml_worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 4:16 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] heater control valve


 Hi,

    Somewhere I saw a after market heater control valve but now that I
need one I can't find it. Was it a Subaru? I've looked in the archives
 and saw that someone bought one at NAPA but he didn't say what it was
ment for.

TIA Steve 1089



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/