From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1706
Date: Sunday, October 12, 2003 1:02 AM

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There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: ratting driver's side power window
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

2. Re: a little more idle work UPDATE
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

3. highest mileage?
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>

4. A question for the "monster garage" types..
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

5. RE: Caravan to Fall Foliage from DC/Baltimore/Wilmington
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>

6. RE: ratting driver's side power window
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>

7. higher output coils and ballast resistors
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>

8. Re: higher output coils and ballast resistors
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>

9. Re: higher output coils and ballast resistors
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

10. Re: highest mileage?
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

11. RE: Caravan to Fall Foliage from North NJ.
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>

12. RE: higher output coils and ballast resistors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

13. RE: higher output coils and ballast resistors
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>

14. Minimum offset for rims?
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

15. There is something rotten in Denmark...
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>

16. another update to idle work
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com

17. Re: highest mileage?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>

18. Re: another update to idle work
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

19. Re: Fw: tricky -tranny
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

20. High Milage vs. Low.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>

21. Location of diodes
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

22. Re: Re: Fw: tricky -tranny
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

23. Re: highest mileage?
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>

24. Re: another update to idle work
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

25. Re: highest mileage?
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>





Message: 1
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 16:34:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: ratting driver's side power window

Yep, that's what you need. You might want to consider the junkyard mod:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/windowfelt.html

-Christian

On Fri, 10 Oct 2003 Soma576_at_dml_aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> My driver's side power window rattles back and forth.  today it became a
> problem when i rolled it down on the interstate which caused turbulence, and when
> i put it back up, it jammed on the inside of the trim around the outer glass.
> i removed my upper door trim (bought one of those fir-tree clip pullers -
> definitely worth the money!) and put the window back on the tracks.  it is still
> really loose and rattley though -
>
> i checked the plastic guides - they aren't cracked and seem to be in good
> shape.  the metal guide rails are pretty stiff too, and by the way they are
> fastened to the door in the shop manual, i think they are ok.  only thing of note
> is that the part 106063 (Seal, Pwr Window, Inner) is almost totally
> disintegrated.
>
> if i replace this seal, does that provide the cushion that the window needs
> so it won't rattle around, or are there other adjustments possible?  obviously
> it should be replaced either way.
>
> Andy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:36:20 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Re: a little more idle work UPDATE

List,

I have some new information that has me bewildered.
after talking to grady this morning, he recommended i return my wiring back 
to stock on the switch and keep looking for the problem.  i have done so.

it seems that when i put an ohm meter across the two terminals on my 
microswitch, it opens and closes the circuit.  however, when i have my wires connected 
to it and i check for continuity on the switch, it will NOT open and close 
the circuit.  this would imply that i have grounds on BOTH ends of the switch 
and thus the switch is rendered inoperable.  

this was verified by connecting the alligator clip on my test light to the 
battery aux terminal and then touching the tip to each wire that goes on the 
back of the switch.  BOTH sides will allow current to go to ground, lighting the 
light up. one side of the switch is the black/green wire and the other is the 
radio noise eliminator and the supposed ground wire.

This is probably not supposed to happen but i am not the best at reading 
wiring diagrams.  i see that on the diagram there is a diode between the switch on 
the black/green side and the idle ECU.  if this diode were missing or blown, 
would this give me the problems i am having?

WHERE is this diode located?

Thanks for any info - 
Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:49:52 -0400
From: "Jeff" <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com>
Subject: highest mileage?

So, with all this talk of high mileage Deloreans lately, I thought I'd
pose the question.
 
Who's got the bragging rights for the most mileage on their D?
 
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Webmaster, http://www.88-mph.com
 
 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:06:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: A question for the "monster garage" types..

As I have said before, I am working on a engine
conversion in my D..  I went the route of making a new
bell housing (instead of just an adapter plate).

I am at the point now where I have to do all the
clutch stuff...  Figure out where to put the slave
cylinder and fork.  The most likely place would be in
the same spot as the stock bell housing (a few degrees
off of directly vertical) because it will not
interfere with any of the bolts, or the differential
gear.  However, on the PRV engine there is room for
the slave cylinder to overhang the block, on my engine
I do not have this space.

The most obvious solution to this problem is to find a
alternate slave cylinder.  This is where I could use a
little advice!  The cylinder is about 3.5 inches long,
but the piston only has about 1.5 inches of travel.  I
assume if I mess with the 1.5 inches, I will have a
problem shifting because the clutch will be too
sensitive.  I have taken all of the measurements to
keep the geometry of the fork, pivot, and cylinder the
same as on the stock bell... and hopefully that will
make it easier for one of you "monster garage" guys to
help out.  I have about 2.5 inches from the "working"
side of the cylinder to the engine block (if I keep
the same geometry).

Anyone know of a cylinder I can buy that I can make
work with the stock geometry?  I have not yet made the
cutout in the new bell for the fork to come through,
nor do I have any bracket yet to hold the cylinder. 
At this point, I am very flexible about what I can
use...  if such a cylinder does not exist, maybe the
geometry can be modified for an alternate cylinder? 

I don't have a good grasp on the interaction of the
hydraulics and geometry of the clutch system to feel
confident that I am doing it right....  At least I am
smart enough to know when to ask for help!

Thanks,
Marc


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http://shopping.yahoo.com



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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 22:55:01 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean_at_dml_abato.net>
Subject: RE: Caravan to Fall Foliage from DC/Baltimore/Wilmington

I am going to run one for Northern NJ/NY owners.

Contact me on the side delorean(at)abato.net   I was thinking we could
meet on the NJ Parkway north of meeting pt. #1

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net] 
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 12:10 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] Caravan to Fall Foliage from DC/Baltimore/Wilmington


Am driving I-95 (or maybe the BW Parkway) from DC to Rendezvous #1
Saturday morning if any owners want to caravan from the south.

Contact me direct: brobertson(at)carolina.net

Bill Robertson
#5939




To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 22:38:41 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687_at_dml_mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: ratting driver's side power window

I also had a rattle and never thought about until it fell off the track two
days after putting it back on the track.
I deduced that the front plastic guide (two pieces of plastic sandwiched
together by rivets) had relaxed, stretched, or just aged. Not only was it
possible to travel too low and fall off, it was just loose and could pop
off.
I fixed it could by drilling a very small hole and bolting two large washers
to each side. They keep the sandwich halves together and provide
reinforcement. I also fixed the travel too low problem.
So far, I've only done one window and it has only been about two weeks. So
far, so good.
I immediately noticed that the window was much quieter and smoother as it
traveled up and down.

YMMV.

I wrote up a howto, which I forwarded to Jordan, but was kind of waiting for
a few more weeks of testing before formal posting.
You can check it out here
http://www.mindspring.com/~kecreason/delorean/howto
It's the windowtrack.html file.

Helpful Comments appreciated. No flames or new holes, please.

Oh, the vette+trailer.jpg is just a funny Texas thing... it's not mine. I
wouldn't mind either the smoker or the car at all, though.

-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com [mailto:Soma576_at_dml_aol.com]
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 5:53 PM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] ratting driver's side power window


List,

My driver's side power window rattles back and forth.  today it became a
problem when i rolled it down on the interstate which caused turbulence, and
when
i put it back up, it jammed on the inside of the trim around the outer
glass.
i removed my upper door trim (bought one of those fir-tree clip pullers -
definitely worth the money!) and put the window back on the tracks.  it is
still
really loose and rattley though -

i checked the plastic guides - they aren't cracked and seem to be in good
shape.  the metal guide rails are pretty stiff too, and by the way they are
fastened to the door in the shop manual, i think they are ok.  only thing of
note
is that the part 106063 (Seal, Pwr Window, Inner) is almost totally
disintegrated.

if i replace this seal, does that provide the cushion that the window needs
so it won't rattle around, or are there other adjustments possible?
obviously
it should be replaced either way.

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 08:34:51 -0000
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: higher output coils and ballast resistors

I want to kick up the ignition on my car. I've thought of using the 
MSD blaster2 coil with 45,000V output. My question is; what size 
ballast resistor should I use with it?

SpecialTauto has 1.8ohm resistors for the 25,000V coil. While the MSD 
blaster2 coils come with a 0.8ohm resistor, which they state "will 
fit most applications".  Would the 0.8ohm or the 1.8ohm work for hte 
45,000V coil, or do I need an even larger resistor?

Thanks! 
adam price  

http://www.msdignition.com/coil_directory.htm

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
wrote:
> Actually what you're seeing is the ignition at work. Whenever the 
coil
> loses its ground (controlled by ignition module), high tension 
current
> builds up lightning fast, then is discharged to a spark plug as 
rotor
> passes its terminal. If the coil were grounded all the time, no
> current would ever build up.
> 
> Ignition module and tachometer take their signal from small wire
> (blue? I'm at work and can't remember color) that passes from
> distributor to compartment behind driver seat.
> 
> Take it easy grabbing ignition wires. While coil ground is only 12
> volts, HT wires can be as much as 100,000 on newer cars. Even stock
> DeLo is 18,000 or so (which I highly recommend bumping up at least 
to
> 40,000).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > OK, while playing around with the ignition / idle system of 6530 I
> noted 
> > something very interesting.  As I previous stated, the tachometer
> makes small 
> > jumps upward, intermittently.  I accidentally touched the wire 
that
> goes to the 
> > negative side of the ignition coil primary circuit (color WS) and
> noted that I 
> > was getting intermittent shocks.  These shocks were at the same 
time
> that the 
> > tach jumped!  When I connected a small neon bulb (i.e., an NE-2 
for you 
> > engineering types), the bulb would blink intermittently along with
> the jumping of the 
> > tach. (Hey I got fed up with getting jolted so I substituted the 
bulb 
> > instead.) Remember that the engine RPM is NOT jumping only the 
tach
> is.  I suppose 
> > the tach is getting these voltage spikes and that is why it is
> jumping and maybe 
> > these spikes are affecting the idle ECU controller.  The spike 
occur
> only at 
> > low RPM up to about 1400 rpm.
> > 
> > Does anyone have a clue as to what to do next?
> > 
> > Dave & 6530 thank you...
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 10:09:50 -0400
From: "Henry" <henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: higher output coils and ballast resistors


While trying to diagnose my no-start condition this summer, I just dropped in an MSD 8203 coil, and it works great for me with the stock ballast resistor (that wasn't the problem, btw.)   Also, I've been warned that this might "cook" the ignition unit, so I'd be interested in what others think about running this coil with a stock vs. larger resistor.

-Hank
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 4:34 AM
Subject: [DML] higher output coils and ballast resistors


> I want to kick up the ignition on my car. I've thought of using the 
> MSD blaster2 coil with 45,000V output. My question is; what size 
> ballast resistor should I use with it?
> 
> SpecialTauto has 1.8ohm resistors for the 25,000V coil. While the MSD 
> blaster2 coils come with a 0.8ohm resistor, which they state "will 
> fit most applications".  Would the 0.8ohm or the 1.8ohm work for hte 
> 45,000V coil, or do I need an even larger resistor?
> 
> Thanks! 
> adam price  
> 
> http://www.msdignition.com/coil_directory.htm
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > Actually what you're seeing is the ignition at work. Whenever the 
> coil
> > loses its ground (controlled by ignition module), high tension 
> current
> > builds up lightning fast, then is discharged to a spark plug as 
> rotor
> > passes its terminal. If the coil were grounded all the time, no
> > current would ever build up.
> > 
> > Ignition module and tachometer take their signal from small wire
> > (blue? I'm at work and can't remember color) that passes from
> > distributor to compartment behind driver seat.
> > 
> > Take it easy grabbing ignition wires. While coil ground is only 12
> > volts, HT wires can be as much as 100,000 on newer cars. Even stock
> > DeLo is 18,000 or so (which I highly recommend bumping up at least 
> to
> > 40,000).
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > > OK, while playing around with the ignition / idle system of 6530 I
> > noted 
> > > something very interesting.  As I previous stated, the tachometer
> > makes small 
> > > jumps upward, intermittently.  I accidentally touched the wire 
> that
> > goes to the 
> > > negative side of the ignition coil primary circuit (color WS) and
> > noted that I 
> > > was getting intermittent shocks.  These shocks were at the same 
> time
> > that the 
> > > tach jumped!  When I connected a small neon bulb (i.e., an NE-2 
> for you 
> > > engineering types), the bulb would blink intermittently along with
> > the jumping of the 
> > > tach. (Hey I got fed up with getting jolted so I substituted the 
> bulb 
> > > instead.) Remember that the engine RPM is NOT jumping only the 
> tach
> > is.  I suppose 
> > > the tach is getting these voltage spikes and that is why it is
> > jumping and maybe 
> > > these spikes are affecting the idle ECU controller.  The spike 
> occur
> > only at 
> > > low RPM up to about 1400 rpm.
> > > 
> > > Does anyone have a clue as to what to do next?
> > > 
> > > Dave & 6530 thank you...
> > > 
> > > 
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 
> 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 14:43:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: higher output coils and ballast resistors

MSD coils are already rated .7 ohms (pretty standard) so just continue
to use stock resistors and you'll be fine. Remember: resistors are
there for ignition module's benefit, not coil's. 

If John Hervey's 25,000 volt coil has extremely little resistance
would need bigger resistor to protect module.

Stock circuit is "approximately" 2 ohms -- .5 though each resistor and
"approximately" 1 through the coil (page M:01:03).

You'll notice biggest benefit of HEI when engine is cold, or breathing
cold air.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Adam 16683" <acprice1_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> I want to kick up the ignition on my car. I've thought of using the 
> MSD blaster2 coil with 45,000V output. My question is; what size 
> ballast resistor should I use with it?
> 
> SpecialTauto has 1.8ohm resistors for the 25,000V coil. While the MSD 
> blaster2 coils come with a 0.8ohm resistor, which they state "will 
> fit most applications".  Would the 0.8ohm or the 1.8ohm work for hte 
> 45,000V coil, or do I need an even larger resistor?
> 
> Thanks! 
> adam price  
> 
> http://www.msdignition.com/coil_directory.htm
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> 
> wrote:
> > Actually what you're seeing is the ignition at work. Whenever the 
> coil
> > loses its ground (controlled by ignition module), high tension 
> current
> > builds up lightning fast, then is discharged to a spark plug as 
> rotor
> > passes its terminal. If the coil were grounded all the time, no
> > current would ever build up.
> > 
> > Ignition module and tachometer take their signal from small wire
> > (blue? I'm at work and can't remember color) that passes from
> > distributor to compartment behind driver seat.
> > 
> > Take it easy grabbing ignition wires. While coil ground is only 12
> > volts, HT wires can be as much as 100,000 on newer cars. Even stock
> > DeLo is 18,000 or so (which I highly recommend bumping up at least 
> to
> > 40,000).
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> > >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > > OK, while playing around with the ignition / idle system of 6530 I
> > noted 
> > > something very interesting.  As I previous stated, the tachometer
> > makes small 
> > > jumps upward, intermittently.  I accidentally touched the wire 
> that
> > goes to the 
> > > negative side of the ignition coil primary circuit (color WS) and
> > noted that I 
> > > was getting intermittent shocks.  These shocks were at the same 
> time
> > that the 
> > > tach jumped!  When I connected a small neon bulb (i.e., an NE-2 
> for you 
> > > engineering types), the bulb would blink intermittently along with
> > the jumping of the 
> > > tach. (Hey I got fed up with getting jolted so I substituted the 
> bulb 
> > > instead.) Remember that the engine RPM is NOT jumping only the 
> tach
> > is.  I suppose 
> > > the tach is getting these voltage spikes and that is why it is
> > jumping and maybe 
> > > these spikes are affecting the idle ECU controller.  The spike 
> occur
> > only at 
> > > low RPM up to about 1400 rpm.
> > > 
> > > Does anyone have a clue as to what to do next?
> > > 
> > > Dave & 6530 thank you...
> > > 
> > > 
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 07:47:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: highest mileage?

Bragging about such a thing may make one's car worth
less..  :)

--- Jeff <webmaster_at_dml_88-mph.com> wrote:
<SNIP>
>  
> Who's got the bragging rights for the most mileage
> on their D?


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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 07:59:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Caravan to Fall Foliage from North NJ.

Kevin (and anyone else interested):

I have 3 other people meeting _at_dml_ my house on Saturday
morning.  In stead of taking the highways down to Exit
63 on the GSP, I was planning on taking some back
roads down there for a more scenic drive.  

According to MapQuest, the "fastest route" from my
house is 1 hour, 2 min.  the route that I planned is 1
hour, 18 min.  No big deal.

All interested should contact me, and aim to be at my
place (in Manalapan, NJ  07726) by 11AM.  


--- Kevin Abato <delorean_at_dml_abato.net> wrote:
> I am going to run one for Northern NJ/NY owners.
> 
> Contact me on the side delorean(at)abato.net   I was
> thinking we could
> meet on the NJ Parkway north of meeting pt. #1
> 
>

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
http://shopping.yahoo.com



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 08:33:13 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: higher output coils and ballast resistors

Adam and Henry, Take a look at the new performance package of products I
just added to the web site last night. That will answer your questions.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/delorean-parts-kits.html


-----Original Message-----
From: Adam 16683 [mailto:acprice1_at_dml_hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 1:35 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DML] higher output coils and ballast resistors


I want to kick up the ignition on my car. I've thought of using the
MSD blaster2 coil with 45,000V output. My question is; what size
ballast resistor should I use with it?

SpecialTauto has 1.8ohm resistors for the 25,000V coil. While the MSD
blaster2 coils come with a 0.8ohm resistor, which they state "will
fit most applications".  Would the 0.8ohm or the 1.8ohm work for hte
45,000V coil, or do I need an even larger resistor?

Thanks!
adam price

http://www.msdignition.com/coil_directory.htm

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...>
wrote:
> Actually what you're seeing is the ignition at work. Whenever the
coil
> loses its ground (controlled by ignition module), high tension
current
> builds up lightning fast, then is discharged to a spark plug as
rotor
> passes its terminal. If the coil were grounded all the time, no
> current would ever build up.
>
> Ignition module and tachometer take their signal from small wire
> (blue? I'm at work and can't remember color) that passes from
> distributor to compartment behind driver seat.
>
> Take it easy grabbing ignition wires. While coil ground is only 12
> volts, HT wires can be as much as 100,000 on newer cars. Even stock
> DeLo is 18,000 or so (which I highly recommend bumping up at least
to
> 40,000).
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
>
> >--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> > OK, while playing around with the ignition / idle system of 6530 I
> noted
> > something very interesting.  As I previous stated, the tachometer
> makes small
> > jumps upward, intermittently.  I accidentally touched the wire
that
> goes to the
> > negative side of the ignition coil primary circuit (color WS) and
> noted that I
> > was getting intermittent shocks.  These shocks were at the same
time
> that the
> > tach jumped!  When I connected a small neon bulb (i.e., an NE-2
for you
> > engineering types), the bulb would blink intermittently along with
> the jumping of the
> > tach. (Hey I got fed up with getting jolted so I substituted the
bulb
> > instead.) Remember that the engine RPM is NOT jumping only the
tach
> is.  I suppose
> > the tach is getting these voltage spikes and that is why it is
> jumping and maybe
> > these spikes are affecting the idle ECU controller.  The spike
occur
> only at
> > low RPM up to about 1400 rpm.
> >
> > Does anyone have a clue as to what to do next?
> >
> > Dave & 6530 thank you...
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 08:38:15 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john_at_dml_specialtauto.com>
Subject: RE: higher output coils and ballast resistors

Hank, What is the extent of your no start problem.
John


-----Original Message-----
From: Henry [mailto:henry_at_dml_ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 7:10 AM
To: dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DML] higher output coils and ballast resistors



While trying to diagnose my no-start condition this summer, I just dropped
in an MSD 8203 coil, and it works great for me with the stock ballast
resistor (that wasn't the problem, btw.)   Also, I've been warned that this
might "cook" the ignition unit, so I'd be interested in what others think
about running this coil with a stock vs. larger resistor.

-Hank



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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 18:50:18 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: Minimum offset for rims?

Since I haven't got any replies yet, I'm posting it again.

Please, can anyone tell me what the minimum offset is for the front and rear rims? 
I need the info to complete the registration document.

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 18:53:25 +0200
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean_at_dml_netcom.no>
Subject: There is something rotten in Denmark...

There is something rotten in Denmark...
but there is also a DeLorean for sale there for potential European buyers.

Have a look at: 
http://www.bilernes-by.dk/content/search/detail.asp?id=18669

Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 14:51:06 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: another update to idle work

List,

i believe my problem lies within the wiring between the bulkhead connector 
for the black/green wire to the idle speed ECU.

On my idle microswitch, there is the black/green wire and the black wire 
which is ground.  however, a test light indicates that i have ground on BOTH 
wires, which would render the switch inoperable since it should be switching 
ground.

when i remove the bulkhead connector, the black/green ground disappears and 
with a meter, i see that the idle switch is indeed switching the ground on and 
off like it should. as soon as i plug the connector back in, both wires are 
grounded.  this leads me to believe that the wire inside the car to the ECU must 
be spliced and getting ground from a previous owner or maybe the diode is 
grounding against something.  i have proved that the diode is ok and it is 
somewhere between the bulkhead connector and the ECU.  according to the wiring 
diagram, the wire should go straight to the ECU w/o connecting to anything else. 

what i now need to know is where exactly this diode is so i can inspect its 
casing.  if i can't find a problem when following this wire, i can run a jumper 
wire between the bulkhead connector and the ECU with a diode in it, however i 
need to know what type of diode to buy at radio shack for this purpose and 
how to install it.

any insights are greatly appreciated!
Andy



>>>>>>>>>>.
List,

I have some new information that has me bewildered.
after talking to grady this morning, he recommended i return my wiring back 
to stock on the switch and keep looking for the problem.  i have done so.

it seems that when i put an ohm meter across the two terminals on my 
microswitch, it opens and closes the circuit.  however, when i have my wires 
connected 
to it and i check for continuity on the switch, it will NOT open and close 
the circuit.  this would imply that i have grounds on BOTH ends of the switch 

and thus the switch is rendered inoperable.  

this was verified by connecting the alligator clip on my test light to the 
battery aux terminal and then touching the tip to each wire that goes on the 
back of the switch.  BOTH sides will allow current to go to ground, lighting 
the 
light up. one side of the switch is the black/green wire and the other is the 

radio noise eliminator and the supposed ground wire.

This is probably not supposed to happen but i am not the best at reading 
wiring diagrams.  i see that on the diagram there is a diode between the 
switch on 
the black/green side and the idle ECU.  if this diode were missing or blown, 
would this give me the problems i am having?

WHERE is this diode located?

Thanks for any info - 
Andy

>>>>>>>>>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 15:27:13 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_juno.com>
Subject: Re: highest mileage?

On Sat, 11 Oct 2003 07:47:31 -0700 (PDT) Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_yahoo.com>
writes:
> Bragging about such a thing may make one's car worth
> less..  :)
> 

Maybe not.

I'd value a high mileage, obviously consistently maintained, PRV over a
30k mile engine that has been ignored for 15 or more years.

Jim
1537




________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 22:30:26 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: Re: another update to idle work

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
<SNIP> 
> what i now need to know is where exactly this diode is so i can
inspect its 
> casing.  if i can't find a problem when following this wire, i can
run a jumper 
> wire between the bulkhead connector and the ECU with a diode in it,
however i 
> need to know what type of diode to buy at radio shack for this
purpose and 
> how to install it.
> 
> any insights are greatly appreciated!
> Andy

The wiring goes right thru the firewall, and directly to the Idle
Speed ECU. Remove the ECU access panel behind the driver's seat, and
follow the wiring leaving the Idle Speed ECU. You should see the
inline diode connected where the wiring harness runs along the left
side of the compartment.

As to what kind of diode is used, can't help you there. Mine is sealed
inside a little tube with spade connecters soldered on the ends, and
no markings on the outside, except to show that it is a diode.

Make sure that the connections on the harness plugs are clean, and
that the wires are snugly crimped to the plugs as well. Also, when the
ECU is engergized, the black/green wire should be putting out 12V.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 23:30:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: tricky -tranny

The friction plates (clutch discs) in an automatic transmission aren't
all that much different then a manual "wet" clutch. Most people are
familiar with the "dry" type as in most cars but "wet" ones are in
heavy equipment like trucks. In an automatic transmission the plates
are cooled and lubricated by the trans fluid. The trans fluid also is
used in the cltch pack pistons to apply pressure to the plates to
engage them. Without enough pressure the clutches slip. In an
automatic the plates are not meant to be slipped anywhere near as much
as in a manual transmission. The torque converter is there for that.
In an automatic the clutches are really more like on-off devices
leaving the torque converter to match the engine speed with the
transmission, not the clutch packs. In any case the amount of friction
materiel that is in the pan is a function of mileage, if there is a
lot at low mileage you are in trouble. Also if there is any
significant amount of metal that is bad news, especially if it is
magnetic. As the trans wears inside you will get brass-bronze from the
bearings and thrust washers but you should not see cast iron,
alumiunum, or steel from the case or the gears. This is why it is
important to open the filter and actually see what is going on inside.
As for the fluid, if it smells burnt it has lost it's lubricating
properties from being overheated. This happens when the clutches slip
and burden the fluid with particles of friction materiel and break
down the fluid from the heat. It won't lose it's capability as a
hydralic fluid, ie: it is still incompressable, but it can't lubricate
the bearing surfaces properly so now you start a cascading failure
ruining the "hard parts" like gears and housings. An external sign is
leaking seals. When the fluid is overburdened with particles it is
like grit and that grit eats out the seals resulting in fluid leaks.
When you see this it is already too late. Replacing the seals now is
like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. The bottom line is
NEVER DRIVE AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION THAT SLIPS. You will cause MAJOR
(read expensive) internal damage. This advice is good for any
automatic transmission, not only in Deloreans.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> Clutch discs in automatic transmission totally different than friction
> plate in manual. Are not supposed to touch anything. Transmission
> fluid itself forms coupling. That's why it's so important to keep
> clean, unburned (like brake fluid, once you overheat it loses
> hydraulic properties), not foamy (don't overfill), etc. If you lose
> hydraulic coupling, discs will wear out very quickly. Don't know about
> DeLo tranny, but nearly all of its contemporaries can drop pan and
> look for collecting disc debris. If it's there, get ready to rebuild.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 23:56:53 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas_at_dml_lvcm.com>
Subject: High Milage vs. Low.

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount_at_dml_j...>
wrote:
> On Sat, 11 Oct 2003 07:47:31 -0700 (PDT) Marc Levy <malevy_nj_at_dml_y...>
> writes:
> > Bragging about such a thing may make one's car worth
> > less..  :)
> > 
> 
> Maybe not.
> 
> I'd value a high mileage, obviously consistently maintained, PRV over a
> 30k mile engine that has been ignored for 15 or more years.
> 
> Jim
> 1537

Milage is of course a consideration with all common cars. Typicly,
higher milage means that a vehicle has experienced quite a load of
normal wear/tear, as the typical consumer drives their car into the
ground. People typicly view a car that has higher milage as beeing
closer to the end of it's service "life". Which is kinda funny, when
you think about it. Most people consider classic car owners to be
needlessly over concerned with maintaing their car, while most
ordinary drivers are just as needlessly overconcerned with disposing
of a vehicle when it's milage hits a certain limit. Same fanaticisim,
opposite ends of the spectrum.

Anywho, when it comes to special interest vehicles, higher milage can
most definatly make a car more desireable overall, by what it means in
the individual areas that it has affected. And this is of course
speaking of DeLoreans in general. Typicly higher milage is interpreted
as meaning that the owner has been faithful to the vehicles
maintenance schedule, and quite meticulous as to making sure that the
car gets what it needs to stay in tip-top condition. Lower milage cars
I have found are usually owner by people more interested in
maintaining the car's cosmetic appearance, moreso than the vehicle's
mechanical function. That's fine too. After all, we are dealing with
simply cars here. But mechanicly, the vehicle probably isn't yet
broken in. And this I can attest to. Safety recalls may not be
performed, parts that might have a specific service life may wear out
prematurely due to age (shocks), non-use (rubber), chemical damage
(gasoline, failed brake fluid seals), etc... Now the normal
maintenance items that one may replace over the course of several
years of keeping a vehicle in active service may seem almost trival,
since they're purchase/installation is spread out over such a time
span. But when someone sends a mothballed vehilce into service so
quickly, deteriorated components can appear to fail almost
simultaniouisly. And this can give a low milage vehicle an unfair
appearance of being "unreliable".

Now this isn't a rule, so please don't take it as such. After all, you
can end up with a high milage vehicle that has been run into the
ground, or some special, low milage car that is in such great shape,
and gives you n problems, that it's almost as if you've walked off the
showroom floor with them. And yes, I've seen both cases.

So far I've only spoken about the problems of buying a D with low
miles/usage. They do after all have their advantages. You start with a
much cleaner slate. Your chances of unknown modifications are greatly
reduced. And you prepare yourself for a restorate much easier by
beeing able to budget, and set timelines. Sure, a few things may pop
up along the way, but you'll already be aware of the biggest, 'cause
after all, if you know that you need to replace the entire fuel
system, shocks, water hoses, water pump, tires, A/C, etc... you know
what exactly your in for, and can have a better glmpse of that light
at the end of the tunnel. It can also build up more confidence in the
car, because you have an idea of how well everything is functioning,
because you know it's working properly. And since you can become
involved in such an intensive restoration, you get to know the car
much better, eliminating much of the "mystery" of the function of
systems and components.

So in a nutshell, does one choose between a high milage car that is
ready to go, but can have problems that the previous owner did
know/admit to? Or. Is it better to buy a car that is more likely to
need extensive work, and that way you'll atleast have a better idea of
what you're getting into, and are less likely to be "surprised" by any
hidden problems?

So as you can see, there is no rule set in stone about high, vs. low
milage cars. There is a guideline, but nothing truly certain, and of
course, there are ALWAYS other factors involved. But now you can
understand that there are both unique advantages, and disadvantages to
both.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 00:05:10 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Location of diodes

I believe most/all diodes can be located on page 3-7-3 of parts
manual. At least that's where I've been able to find all the ones I've
needed.

Bill Robertson
#5939





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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 00:11:55 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Fw: tricky -tranny

Exactly what I said -- "hydraulic couplings". 

As for "opening the filter", assume you're talking about DeLo
automatic. Most traditional filters simply overlay pump inlet. Like
miniature furnace filters -- nothing to open.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The friction plates (clutch discs) in an automatic transmission aren't
> all that much different then a manual "wet" clutch. Most people are
> familiar with the "dry" type as in most cars but "wet" ones are in
> heavy equipment like trucks. In an automatic transmission the plates
> are cooled and lubricated by the trans fluid. The trans fluid also is
> used in the cltch pack pistons to apply pressure to the plates to
> engage them. Without enough pressure the clutches slip. In an
> automatic the plates are not meant to be slipped anywhere near as much
> as in a manual transmission. The torque converter is there for that.
> In an automatic the clutches are really more like on-off devices
> leaving the torque converter to match the engine speed with the
> transmission, not the clutch packs. In any case the amount of friction
> materiel that is in the pan is a function of mileage, if there is a
> lot at low mileage you are in trouble. Also if there is any
> significant amount of metal that is bad news, especially if it is
> magnetic. As the trans wears inside you will get brass-bronze from the
> bearings and thrust washers but you should not see cast iron,
> alumiunum, or steel from the case or the gears. This is why it is
> important to open the filter and actually see what is going on inside.
> As for the fluid, if it smells burnt it has lost it's lubricating
> properties from being overheated. This happens when the clutches slip
> and burden the fluid with particles of friction materiel and break
> down the fluid from the heat. It won't lose it's capability as a
> hydralic fluid, ie: it is still incompressable, but it can't lubricate
> the bearing surfaces properly so now you start a cascading failure
> ruining the "hard parts" like gears and housings. An external sign is
> leaking seals. When the fluid is overburdened with particles it is
> like grit and that grit eats out the seals resulting in fluid leaks.
> When you see this it is already too late. Replacing the seals now is
> like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic. The bottom line is
> NEVER DRIVE AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION THAT SLIPS. You will cause MAJOR
> (read expensive) internal damage. This advice is good for any
> automatic transmission, not only in Deloreans.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> > Clutch discs in automatic transmission totally different than friction
> > plate in manual. Are not supposed to touch anything. Transmission
> > fluid itself forms coupling. That's why it's so important to keep
> > clean, unburned (like brake fluid, once you overheat it loses
> > hydraulic properties), not foamy (don't overfill), etc. If you lose
> > hydraulic coupling, discs will wear out very quickly. Don't know about
> > DeLo tranny, but nearly all of its contemporaries can drop pan and
> > look for collecting disc debris. If it's there, get ready to rebuild.
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 18:22:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: highest mileage?

In the DeLorean Gold Portfolio Joe Lo Re's car had 200,000 miles on it. The book was published a decade ago now, and it seems like I heard in the last few years that Joe's car had around 300,000 miles on it. I'm pretty sure that takes the cake.

Louie Golden
VIN- Coming again soon...

_____________________________________________________________
Pre-order the updated second edition of  "DeLorean: Stainless Steel Illusion" now! Details <a href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 02:35:24 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: another update to idle work

You would just install it where the bad one is, as long as you are 
sure it's bad. Do you know how to test the old one with an ohm-meter? 

You can buy about any of the regular rectifier-type diodes at Radio 
Shack. There are two important parameters, voltage (needs to be 
grater than what's in your car, allowing for surges) 50V is fine, and 
current, greater than what you expect it to carry. If it's a sensor 
circuit a 1-amp diode is fine, if it's running light bulbs you 
probably want somthing bigger, say 5-10A. Price is not much different 
until you get to the really high power stuff. 

Put a lug on either end of it to match the old one, wrap it up and 
plug it in. There is a right and wrong way, the stripe end of the 
diode correlates to the direction of the "arrow" symbol on the 
diagram. 

Dave S


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Soma576_at_dml_a... wrote:
> List,
... however i 
> need to know what type of diode to buy at radio shack for this 
purpose and 
> how to install it.
> 
> any insights are greatly appreciated!
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> 




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________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 20:02:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: highest mileage?

Most likely Don Steger from the DeLorean Motor Center in Garden Grove. I
think he's into the 2 or 3 hundred thousand mile range.

-Christian

On Fri, 10 Oct 2003, Jeff wrote:

> So, with all this talk of high mileage Deloreans lately, I thought I'd
> pose the question.
>
> Who's got the bragging rights for the most mileage on their D?
>
> -Jeff Chabotte
> Norwich, CT
> Webmaster, http://www.88-mph.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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