From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1712
Date: Thursday, October 16, 2003 5:39 AM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at

There are 4 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. VIN 20105 (and the other gold cars)
From: James Espey <>

2. Seeing what's out there
From: "cyboexpo2002" <>

3. Re: mode switch diaphram disassembly & reassembly instructions??
From: "ksgrimsr" <>

4. Fixing brake switch in a pinch
From: Christian Williams <>

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 18:16:46 -0500
From: James Espey <>
Subject: VIN 20105 (and the other gold cars)

VIN 4300 - 1st AMEX gold car - in Reno, NV
VIN 4301 - 2nd AMEX gold car - in Snyder, TX
VIN 20105 - "last" car built, using the *only* spare set of panels - in MD

VIN XXXX (deleted) - Car with panels plated privately by owner - last known
to be in NY

Does that clear it up? Or muddle it worse?


> I am STILL not clear about a fourth car.....all STORIES have said that it
> was decided at the factory in Ireland to use the one spare set of gold
> panels on the last car and they claim this was the question, I
> guess, is were there TWO spare sets of gold plated panels then?   I have
> never heard that one before.   Also had never heard that a fourth gold
> plated D was assembled in the States at some point later?   At one point one
> of those was offered for sale and I called the gentleman....he told me he
> had thought to use the car for a more or less traveling display and charge
> for looking at it, but the insurance was astronomical and he decided against
> it.   He didn't say anything about it being the 3rd car or the 4h car.  I
> assumed it was the 3rd car as nothing had ever been said about a 4th car at
> that point.  I spent a day talking to my wife about it and got her
> permissionto buy it, called back and the car was sold!  I wont lose any
> sleep over this, but am still the curious type after 82 years!
> Murray
> Vin:05962
> Lic: DMC-XII


Message: 2
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 23:07:25 -0000
From: "cyboexpo2002" <>
Subject: Seeing what's out there

I've begun browsing what's in my local (as in NY, CT, MA) area.  I'm
pretty sure I'll be a couple years before I'm actively looking, but I
figure that way I learn about the market a bit more...
Anyway, I see a lot of Ds on for around the $15-20k range.  I'm trying
to get an idea of what kind of condition that would get me...though
from the pictures I immediately notice things like ripped seats and
demaged headliners (but this is I guess normal for a car this age).

Basically, I was about wondering any input you guys might have about
buying.  (There's always that chance that I might be able to free up
some cash)

On a side note, I hear that I'm lucky since PJ Grady is pretty close
by here (relatively).  Well, I found out some interesting info the
other day.  Apparently, they were planning a bridge across Long Island
Sound that would lead me almost directly in the direction of PJ
Grady's in the 70s and 80s.
Build that bridge!  Seriously though, any tips, etc would be greatly
appreciated.  $20k is a sizable chunk of change, and I want to know,
in general, how much of a car this'll get me.  Thanks!


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 00:43:18 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr" <>
Subject: Re: mode switch diaphram disassembly & reassembly instructions??

I've had my mode switch out several times and it's pretty simple (at 
the time I didn't know what lubricant was suitable and I therefore 
had it out once for each lubricant I tried).

Pull the knobs off the controls on the A/C panel and remove the 
screw in the center that keeps the plastic bezel in place. Do not 
remove the screw holding the mode switch to the mounting plate yet.

>From the driver's footwell, reach around the edge of the console 
with your left hand/arm and grab the rubber boot/manifold attached 
to the rear of the mode switch. Do not disconnect any vacum hoses 
from the rubber boot/manifold. The rubber boot/manifold has a 
tactile index mark on it (a bump cast in the rubber you can feel 
with your fingers). Feel the boot and become familiar with its 
orientation. Unless you're some contortionist, you have to do this 
by feel since you cannot in general see anything with you arm back 
there, and you'll have to put it back on by feel later.

Pull the entire rubber boot with hoses attached off the back of the 
mode switch.

Now remove the screw securing the mode switch to the center console.

Leave the electrical connections at the bottom of the mode switch 
attached for the time being. They have a bit of slack that you can 
make use of. Work the switch with electrical wires still connected 
as far out of the cavity as you can. They should almost make it to 
the edge of the console. Now take a look at the electrical 
connections and make note of which colored wires attach to what 
terminal. Then disconnect the electrical connections and withdraw 
the mode switch.

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Attach the 
electrical connections using the available slack and then mount the 
mode switch to the console. Reach back and grab the rubber boot and 
orient it based on the tactile features on it before pushing it onto 
the back of the mode switch.

The lubricant I had really good success with was silicone spray 


--- In, "dmcyoseppi" <dmcyoseppi_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Does anyone have a good set of instructions on how to remove the 
> mode switch diaphram, lubricate it and then renistall it? I have 
> been having the hissing noise when the switch is in the off 
> position, so I just keep it on fan, but would like to fix it 
> Anyone know of a good set of instructions on this area?
> Thanks 
> Joe OBrien
> 002524


Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 16:51:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <>
Subject: Fixing brake switch in a pinch

I discovered last night that my brake lights weren't working. I'd had this
happen before due to an inline fuse in the footwell blowing (I don't know
why it was there, maybe the car previously had cruise control or
something). I checked the fuse and the one in the electrical compartment
and they were both fine. The switch itself was dead.

So luckily I have DMC Joe's courtesey light circut cutoff switch. The
wires are long enough that I could run it down to the brake switch wiring
and control it with my right thumb while braking and downshifting. Luckily
I'll have a replacement switch tomorrow.



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to