From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1714
Date: Friday, October 17, 2003 6:35 AM

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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Fixing brake switch in a pinch
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>

2. North Carolina Wrecked D For Sale
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>

3. Fan Fail Light
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

4. Poor Running when cold, Please Help
From: "dcsj4465" <dcsj_at_dml_excite.com>

5. Gullwing Magazine
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 11:21:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean_at_dml_framezero.com>
Subject: Re: Fixing brake switch in a pinch

Right on, perhaps I'll take my old one apart and clean it, test it, and
then keep it in the car just in case this happens again in another 20
years. :)

-Christian

On Thu, 16 Oct 2003, Martin Gutkowski wrote:

> The brakelight switch is quite simple and can be pulled apart and fixed
> quite easily. They tend to get stuck because the current for all 4 brake
> lights goes through the switch. A bit of cleaning and it'll work fine
> again. That said, a replacement switch is hardly expensive.
>
> Martin
>
> Christian Williams wrote:
>
> >I discovered last night that my brake lights weren't working. I'd had this
> >happen before due to an inline fuse in the footwell blowing (I don't know
> >why it was there, maybe the car previously had cruise control or
> >something). I checked the fuse and the one in the electrical compartment
> >and they were both fine. The switch itself was dead.
> >
> >So luckily I have DMC Joe's courtesey light circut cutoff switch. The
> >wires are long enough that I could run it down to the brake switch wiring
> >and control it with my right thumb while braking and downshifting. Luckily
> >I'll have a replacement switch tomorrow.
> >
> >-Christian
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:16:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: North Carolina Wrecked D For Sale

On my way to Greenville, SC last month I met a gas station attendant that told me
of a friend who was looking to sell his DeLorean. It has been sitting for some
years and has some front end damage. Here is the contact info for anyone
interested:
Gerald Warren 693-5462 home 699-2322 cell (you'll need to find the area code for
Henderson, NC).

Shannon Y
16506

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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 21:17:53 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Fan Fail Light

I was checking over my car in preparation for the Fall Tour and I
noticed my fan fail light would not go on. I have a Fanzilla so I
couldn't believe that it had failed! I figured it was just the bulb.
Switching the bulbs around with the door lock bulb didn't help but if
I twisted the socket I could get it to light up. It turned out to be
the ground wire where it connects to the shell of the light socket. It
was crimped tightly but it wasn't making electrical contact. I removed
it, cleaned it, and then soldered it back. I mention this only so
people will check the functionality of the fan fail light and then if
it isn't working not to jump to conclusions and figure it is just the
bulb. Even with a Fanzilla you must check the fan fail light from time
to time. BTW this could happen in many places in the car so always
check your grounds!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 23:04:01 -0000
From: "dcsj4465" <dcsj_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Poor Running when cold, Please Help

I have a friend who is having problems with drivability when the 
engine is cold. Now it seems to be getting worse. The problem seems 
to persist with cold ambient temps. When ever the eng is cold he has 
to let it warm up a couple minutes otherwise it will buck and jerk 
pretty bad. It usually clears up in a mile or two. Recently he had to 
drive nearly 10 miles before it cleared up. That day the morning temp 
was in the 20's.(DULUTH,MN) The last time I talked with him he had 
driven the car up the Northshore of lake Superior about 20 miles with 
it running poorly all the way. After he arrived at his destination, 
he gave the throttle spool some quick revs as if too try and clear 
the engine out then shut it off. He drove home an hour later and all 
was fine. This is a mystery! Any suggestions wound be helpfull. Also 
the frequency valve appears to be buzzing just fine. Is there a most 
likely item we should be looking at that would cause this senario of 
events?

Thanks, Dennis 5180




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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 19:53:19 EDT
From: Soma576_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Gullwing Magazine

List,

i finally got around to ordering a subscription to Gullwing Magazine, 
including purchasing all the back issues.  all i have to say is AWESOME!!!  i haven't 
been this excited to belong to a 'club' like this since the first DeLorean 
club show I went to when i first got my car.  it is really great to able to read 
articles by other DML'ers and other people i know so well (if only through 
the internet).  the layout is great, the number of pages is just right (except 
we could always use MORE pages though, right??? ), and the articles choices are 
relevant too.

i guess i mostly just want to say that if you aren't already a subscriber, i 
strongly suggest you should be, you won't be sorry!  and to Ron and Cheryl - 
keep up the great work!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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