From: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
To: <dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1736
Date: Sunday, November 02, 2003 11:11 PM

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators_at_dml_dmcnews.com

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Louvres for sale, and want wide side stripes
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>

2. Re: Dwell Angle
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

3. Re: David T's Tune Up Advice
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

4. BMW/Time Machine?
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>

5. Re: "HT" = "High Tension"
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

6. Re: Re: Larry Flint
From: Darryl Givens <delorean58982001_at_dml_yahoo.com>

7. Trip to Tucson area
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>

8. Re: AW: Re: Ignition system failure = faulty coil
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

9. stainless steel illusion
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>

10. Re: Suspension Options for the DeLorean
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>

11. Re: Cold plugs
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

12. Re: "HT" = "High Tension"
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>

13. Stainless Steel Illusion reprint
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>

14. Missing hose?
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com

15. Re: Newbe here, Canadian cars for sale?
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>

16. Re: stainless steel illusion
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>

17. '83 D For Sale in Akron Ohio
From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com>

18. Re: Re: Cold plugs - my mistake
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>

19. Re: Parts missing/removed from my car at Jag Shop
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

20. Re: What to do with the Dummy switches
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

21. Re: Larry Flint
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>

22. Re: Missing hose?
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>

23. idle fluctuations
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>

24. Re: Missing hose?
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>

25. Re: Ignition system shocks
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>





Message: 1
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 02:23:35 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii_at_dml_excite.com>
Subject: Louvres for sale, and want wide side stripes

List,

It seems DMCH may be out of the reproduction wide side stripes. I 
will check monday to be sure, with somemore there more knowledgable 
than thier receptionist...

But does anyone have any leads on finding a set of side stripes? I 
have my fascias off and now's the PERFECT time to install them on my 
new(er) D. I had them on the old one... and love the look.

Thanks for your help on that matter.

Secondly. I have a set of louvres that I no longer need. I'll part 
with them cheap. They were painted glossy black by the previous 
owner. It's a nice paint job, but I personally think glossy black 
looks hideous. You could easily have them repainted/striped. On the 
second slat (individual louvre) up from the bottom there are two 
inch-long L-shape gashed where a wing was once epoxied. They aren't 
too noticable... but again this set of louvres is best for 
refurbishing. Contact me if you'd like them, make me an offer. I'm 
looking to get rid of them fast (they're big) and if I don't get a 
bite here they'll end up on ebay. Thought I'd offer the list first.

Thanks!
James 004009




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 2
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 03:14:52 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Dwell Angle

I was hardly recommending breaker points. Just pointing out that in
those days ignition voltages were fraction of today's values. Have
only gone one direction in past 30 years -- up.

Pertronix's point conversions adjust dwell angle BTW, just like stand
alone solid state ignition modules. Are neat little kits that bolt
right inside distributor cap where the points used to be. Run off full
12v+ too.

Speaking of bad old days, have you noticed plugs resistances have gone
nowhere but up too? Non-resistor used to be standard in the 1960's.
Today some performance plugs put up hundreds of ohms of resistance.

Biggest question is: since a high voltage coil only costs $30 (mail
order), what's the controversy? Even if it yielded no advantage -- it
does -- was the LEAST expensive part ever installed on my DeLo.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita_at_dml_g...> wrote:
> Bill,
> in the good old days of points there was a fixed dwell (?) or angle or
> whatever you call it to charge up the coil. At higher rpm's there
was only little energy stored and you can imagine what happens when there's not
> enough energy to produce a good spark.
> 
> Have you ever seen the guys working on the ignition with analyzers /
> oszilloskopes ?
  I'm not too good in english to
> explain it in every detail. But with an analyzer you can tell
exactly what's wrong with the plugs and the ignition. Take a book and read it. Or don't believe it and buy that crap.
> 
> Elvis & 6548...without any cold start ignition problems....



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 03:26:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: David T's Tune Up Advice

Forgot to mention I DO agree completely with David T's advice to
replace disposable ignition components. An old mechanic once told me
that 99% of car problems are electrical. Have found that true myself. 

DeLo adds new dimension to problem with plastic body, switched
grounds, and small gauge wire throughout (electrical problems other
than ignition).

Bill Robertson
#5939
 
>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> You will get more
> "bang for the buck" in the long run keeping the car in tune than
> putting expensive non-stock parts in. 




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 22:28:16 -0500
From: Holler <thehauntfactory_at_dml_att.net>
Subject: BMW/Time Machine?

Hey all,
I didn't make it to the Eurofest gathering at the BMW plant here in
S.C., but I heard today that for at least the second year running,
someone brought a DeLorean Time Machine to the show.
I know it wasn't me, so does anyone know who it was/is?  Any info would
be fun and helpful.
Thanks!
Oliver Holler
10694 (Time-Car)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 5
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 03:40:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: "HT" = "High Tension"

May be a southern thing, but we call high voltage coil output "high
tension".

About 20 years ago shocked ever living mess out of myself on a cracked
spark plug wire. Will never forget the thrill. Have approached
ignition systems cautiously since. Am absolutely fastidious with the
wires, a task made easier with Autozone/Advance lifetime warranties. 

But to be honest, my BIGGEST fear when timing the Fords is catching
myself on a fan or belts...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc_at_dml_h...> wrote:
> 
> One other thing and I'm not picking on you if it is a typo. When
> you refer to HT are you referring to HV for high voltage?
> If not pleas let me know what HT is. 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mike D.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 6
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 19:48:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Darryl Givens <delorean58982001_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Larry Flint

Thanks everyone, I wasn't sure about the whole Larry Flint deal, I saw The peole vs. Larry Flint, but it was awhile ago, thanks again,

 

Darryl

5898




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 05:51:56 -0000
From: "Toby Peterson" <tobyp_at_dml_katewwdb.com>
Subject: Trip to Tucson area

Hi Gang - My wife and I will be in the Tucson, Arizona area this 
coming week on vacation (11/2 through 11/7).  If there are any DML 
folks in that area, I'd love to hook up informally and meet some new 
friends with a common interest.  I'm not sure about internet access 
while we're there, so please email me privately (I have phone access 
to my email).  My address is tobyp(at)katewwdb.com.  I hope that I 
get a chance to see another DeLorean on the trip.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 8
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 10:11:47 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: AW: Re: Ignition system failure = faulty coil

I'm with Elvis. Use COLD plugs in the engine. A "blind test" would be to 
take two cars, and change the plugs, cap, rotor, coil and HT leads - one 
car for high voltage coil, low res leads, and the other for a new 
standard coil, and Bougicord leads

I'd put money on there being no difference.

Martin

Elvis Nocita wrote:

>I still don't get you guys with that high voltage stuff.
>Tha max-voltage on the plugs depends of the gap (and the mixture).
>As soon as the current is flowing the voltage breaks down. If you
>wanna use the higher voltage you have to widen the gap and replace
>the wires. But will there be a difference ? I really doubt.
>Stay away from that cheap crap stuff, stay with BOSCH and the car will run.
>
>My 2 cents, and my book about car electrics and stuff proves me right....
>
>Elvis & 6548



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 9
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 13:06:58 -0000
From: "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_yahoo.com>
Subject: stainless steel illusion

Thanks James Espey for a great reprint of SSI. Just got it today. I 
couldn't justify paying $150 for the first printing but now I can 
read the ultimate Delorean book.  Ed Herrmann




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 10
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 17:41:05 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen_at_dml_cox.net>
Subject: Re: Suspension Options for the DeLorean

I went to www.carrerashocks.com and downloaded the .pdf with the 
shock part numbers for the DeLorean (Premium Street Performance 
Front: 3246se+1947a(kit) Rear: 3384su002).  Are these direct correct 
length replacements?  Or do they require extensions or adapters at 
the ends, as do the touring shocks from www.midstatedmc.com?

I also noticed that Carrera Shocks also has a Springs area of their 
site (http://www.carrerashocks.com/Spring%20Specifications.htm).  
Does someone here have information about the springs engineered for 
the DMCH Performance Springs (e.g. Free Length, Stroke, Wire 
Diameter, Total Turns ... etc.) that could check to see if Carrera 
has something comparable?

I checked out www.dmc-service.nl to see what they are offering in the 
way of Springs and Shocks.  Their prices are as follows: 334 euros 
($388.18) for four lowering springs (BTW: 3cm = 1.181102"), and 520 
euros ($604.35) for four high performance shocks.  I used www.xe.com 
to figure amounts in US Dollars and both the springs and the shocks 
can be had for $992.52 (or .53).  DMCH offers their Springs and 
Shocks as a kit for $1,188.00, (a $195.48 difference).  Is the 
performance difference worth spending the extra $195.48?

Has any individual or club actually set up cones in a parking lot or 
taken a highway drive switching drivers and done any comparisons 
without bias?  It would be nice to have a comparison out there so 
owners could decide which spring and shock source or combination is 
right for them based on things like; reliability of source, included 
installation documentation, quality of manufacture, mechanical 
reliability, ride quality, handling characteristics, ride stance, 
warrantee, price, and price/performance comparison.

www.delorean.com - Springs and Shocks (Original and Performance)
www.pjgrady.com - Springs and Shocks (Performance)
www.midstatedmc.com - Springs (not shown) and Shocks 
(Performance/Touring)
www.dmc-service.nl - Springs and Shocks (Original and Performance)
www.carrerashocks.com - Springs (not yet verified) and Shocks 
(Performance)

Thank you,
Ben Ferguson

P.S. I am convinced that the DeLorean community is comprised of the 
highest quality individuals in terms of kindness, generosity, and 
intelligence, all with a shiny car with gull-wing doors as the common 
denominator.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 11
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 18:11:43 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Cold plugs

Cold plugs can carbon foul, especially on a car that doesn't get much
road use.

Oil burners are also vulnerable.

Re: continuing ignition controversy -- again I wonder why the
controversy over a $30 part? Is practically the cheapest thing on the car.

And I personally find it does make a difference...

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_d...> wrote:
> I'm with Elvis. Use COLD plugs in the engine. A "blind test" would
be to  take two cars, and change the plugs, cap, rotor, coil and HT leads -
one car for high voltage coil, low res leads, and the other for a new 
> standard coil, and Bougicord leads
> 
> I'd put money on there being no difference.
> 
> Martin
> 
> Elvis Nocita wrote:
> 
> >I still don't get you guys with that high voltage stuff.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 12
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 19:55:06 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_webspan.net>
Subject: Re: "HT" = "High Tension"

The biggest danger when working around the high voltage parts is not
so much the electrical shock itself (which can be very painful, it
makes your hair hurt!) but the more immediate danger is the
invoulontary muscular contractions. It can throw you against a wall,
or make you pull back so violently you tear your skin or break bones!
If on a ladder you WILL fall off. When working on a strange car (one I
am not familiar with) you are very cautious around the secondary
ignition system. If the wires are old it can be very dangerous. An old
trick is to run the motor in a dark place and look for the blue halo
around the wires, cap, ignition coil. I have also used an old portable
AM radio tuned between stations, if I get crackling and sparking I
know the electric is "getting out". On the Delorean it is a little
more insiduous. If the wires break down inside the plug wells you
cannot see it. If the wires are over 10 years old they are probably
due to be replaced. Same for the ignition coil. Over time they seem to
put out less and less until they finally die. On many old cars that I
work on replacing the ignition coil seems to give them more power and
start easier. Although the ignition coil isn't considered a
"throw-away" it is a replaceable part. It does have a finite lifetime
and if you keep it till it fails then toward the end of it's service
life it won't work like it should. Very easy to check with a scope. 
 Another thing to look at is the connections on the ballast resistors.
A dirty, corroded connection there will reduce the power to the
ignition coil. In a extreme case it can keep the motor from starting.
The major point is before you go modifying things try to get the motor
running right "stock". Sticking performance parts on a motor that
isn't running right won't get you very much at all. 
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_c...> wrote:
> May be a southern thing, but we call high voltage coil output "high
> tension".
> 
> About 20 years ago shocked ever living mess out of myself on a cracked
> spark plug wire. Will never forget the thrill.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 13
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:16:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo_at_dml_boom.net>
Subject: Stainless Steel Illusion reprint

I've just finished reading the reprint of SSI, and I understand why people 
regard it as the best Delorean book.  While some of the other books out 
there specialize in certain areas or tell a clearly one-sided story, this 
one seems to cover it all fairly well, and certainly contains the best 
collection of photographs related to our cars' history.

I'm glad it's finally been reprinted so I can afford to own a copy.  I'd 
never even had the opportunity to see a copy before, and this is a welcome 
addition to my Delorean library.

I notice that the photograph on page 79, of a toast on groundbreaking day, 
is captioned as being October 2, 1982, which it clearly isn't.  The text 
on the same page, in fact, indicates that groundbreaking was on October 2, 
1978.  This mistake isn't listed in the errata section at the end, 
however.  Perhaps next edition?  :-)

The addendum adds some good information to bring this book up to date.  
Some of it certainly reads like an advertisement for DMCH, but I think
that's to be expected and is forgivable given that it was through their
efforts that this book was reprinted.  It's a shame, however, that someone
with a bachelor's degree in journalism doesn't seem to know the difference
between "its" and "it's."  I try not to be picky about grammar in online 
posts, but for a book with a permanent home in my library, I expect a 
slightly higher standard.

Still a great book, though, and I recommend anyone who hasn't paid out the 
nose for a first edition copy pick up this one.

-andrew
 #4115
 Houston TX



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 14
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 17:17:37 EST
From: doctorDHD_at_dml_aol.com
Subject: Missing hose?

Today I felt very adventurous so I decided to replace the auxiliary air tube 
O-ring, hoping it would solve my fast and irregular idle problem.  (The tube 
seemed to be flapping in the breeze and the idle speed regulator was not 
screwed to anything.) I was told I could reuse the copper gaskets that were on the 
fuel distributor when I took it off.  That supposes that you don't drop them 
when taking them off!  Well, I dropped two but hey no problem right?  I just 
called an auto parts store and they said sure we have them.  Two hours and four 
stores later no one had them, even though they said they did on the phone.  
Fortunately, one bolt had an extra washer on it and I was able to find one that I 
dropped so I was back in business.  When I put it all together, it actually 
started up!  Now it still idles fast but isn't surging up as it did before.  

I noticed the heater control valve did not have a hose going to it.  I could 
not find any "extra" hose nearby.  The valve itself had a thin plastic "stub" 
on the back of it but it didn't look like it was hollow, as if a hose would 
even go on it.  Right next to it was a hole in the plastic that kinda looked 
like a hose connection broke off there.  

Does anyone have a picture of the vacuum end of an original heater control 
valve and where should the vacuum line be entering the engine compartment on its 
way to the valve?

Thanks again,,

Dē & 6530


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 15
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 23:00:03 -0000
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Newbe here, Canadian cars for sale?

Hi Trevor,

I live in Ottawa, Ontario Canada.  I saw your post and thought I 
should respond.  I'm the owner of vin2450 that I have happily owned 
for 14 years, I ended up purchasing this one owner car from Irving 
Texas sight unseen after having looked at 3 cars locally.  It was not 
the fact of condition at that time as they were only 8 or 9 years 
new, but the fact of cost.  It was more feasible to purchase the car 
in Texas then pay the 35,000 to 45,000can 14years ago.  There are 
roughly a dozen Delorean's in a 20-40min drive from my home one of 
which resides at a home I grew up in (the Delorean was to be part of 
my "future") another one was 5min away (it was an 83 consolidated 
Canadian car with less then 800klm's on it, it was sold a few years 
ago to a new owner in Toronto Canada) Anyways what I'm trying to say 
is check locally (put out a local want ad for a Delorean) you'll be 
surprised with what you can find closer then you think.  Once you see 
their prices you will be happy with purchasing from the United 
States, check with the members of the dmcnews group when you find one 
I'm sure someone will know the car and if not I'm sure someone would 
be happy to go check the car out for you, I know I would.  Just 
peaces of advice try to buy one that has been driven regularly and 
may have minor flaws over one that has been in the garage for the 
past 5 or more years and has not moved.  It will cost far less over 
the long run and you will be a happy and proud owner of a Delorean.

Good luck,

Stephane
Vin2450

P.S. Check out this car in Toronto Canada (it does need body work 
though) http://firstchoiceautosalvage.com/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 16
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 23:03:37 -0000
From: "vin2450" <svw_coco_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: stainless steel illusion

Thanks as well for the best Delorean book out there, I got mine 
Friday and it looks great just have to find some time to read it.

Stephane
vin2450
--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "edherrmann" <edherrmann_at_dml_y...> wrote:
> Thanks James Espey for a great reprint of SSI. Just got it today. I 
> couldn't justify paying $150 for the first printing but now I can 
> read the ultimate Delorean book.  Ed Herrmann




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 17
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 19:18:01 -0500
From: "George Ryerson" <TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com>
Subject: '83 D For Sale in Akron Ohio

I just thought I'd let the group know that my '83 is for sale in Akron Ohio.
It's serial # 17XXX, five speed, yellow painted, and is in very excellent
condition. Purchased from the son of the former DeLorean dealer in a suburb
of Akron in 1999. Paint job appears to be from the factory. Can EMail
pictures. Anyone interested can contact me _at_dml_ TRyerson_at_dml_neo.rr.com.

George

P.S. Thanks to the group for all the maintainance help over the last several
years.




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 18
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 00:26:53 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster_at_dml_delorean.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Cold plugs - my mistake

Yep, I made a boo-boo there - HOT plugs on low compression engine, and 
COLD plugs on high compression/turbo engine. I knew it was the opposite 
to what you might first think, but confused myself into a 
double-negative! The DeLorean should run HOT plugs

Martin

content22207 wrote:

>Cold plugs can carbon foul, especially on a car that doesn't get much
>road use.
>
>Oil burners are also vulnerable.
>
>Re: continuing ignition controversy -- again I wonder why the
>controversy over a $30 part? Is practically the cheapest thing on the car.
>
>And I personally find it does make a difference...
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 19
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 01:40:04 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Parts missing/removed from my car at Jag Shop

Al,

If I'm not mistaken, I've seen other folks on the list complain about
this shop. Try to dig in the archives. That may help.

Rich
#5335


--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> I wouldn't be afraid of him telling you he would sue you for slander.
> The best defense against that is the truth. If in fact you call a
> thief a thief that is not slander, that is just a statement of fact.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 20
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 01:53:11 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: What to do with the Dummy switches

All true Michael, but I think he's asking what toys to add so he can
wire up additional switches.

I could suggest some kind of add-on driving or fog lights. Perhaps GPS
or something.

If you're buying a Houston resto job I'm SURE that they could suggest
something. Call them.

Rich
#5335

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "Michael Paine" <mpaine_at_dml_t...> wrote:
> they aren't switches per say but hollow plastic moudlings that look 
> like the remaining 3 switches... 



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 21
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 02:08:37 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1_at_dml_delorean.com>
Subject: Re: Larry Flint

<SNIP>
> 
> Did the tapes, hurt or help DeLorean's defense? Pretty much, they were 
> neutral to the case. It's really been the negative press from cynical writters, and commedians seeking cheap laughs that have really moulded the negative opinion that surrounds both the man, and the car today.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"


Robert, I totally agree with what you're saying.

I would like to say to everyone here that I have actually observed a
sort of "changing of opinion" from people I meet. I only have one
a-hole at work who makes the cocaine joke. Nearly every one else I
meet has a much softer opinion of the whole affair. When people my age
or older (31) see the car, it's like "everything old is new again" and
they want to hear the story, what happened etc. I guess if enough time
passes, people will make their own decision and not listen to the press.

Has anyone else noticed this?

Rich




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 22
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 02:22:49 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle_at_dml_dmcnews.com>
Subject: Re: Missing hose?

Hose connection sounds normal. That's about what it looks like. There 
should be about 1/4" of plastic nipple there. You're about a day late 
on the photo - I just put the engine back in the car I was working 
on. Now I can't see that valve any more.

The line you are looking for is actually a hard black plastic line 
that enters the engine compartment from the side pontoon on the 
drivers side. It follows that steel tube that crosses the back of the 
engine compartment. There is about  an inch of rubber hose on the end 
that connects to the control valve.

Last time I needed those copper washers in a hurry I got them at a 
Volvo dealer. John Hervey sells a really nice assortment very 
reasonably - essentially every copper ring on the car.

Dave

--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
>... I was told I could reuse the copper gaskets that were on the 
> fuel distributor when I took it off.  That supposes that you don't 
drop them when taking them off!  Well, I dropped two but hey no problem 
right?  I just called an auto parts store and they said sure we have them.  Two 
hours and four stores later no one had them, .....



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 23
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 03:21:58 -0000
From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf_at_dml_hotmail.com>
Subject: idle fluctuations

After many months of rehabilitation (the Delorean that is), I had a 
weekend of driving my Delorean.. It ran great for the first day and a 
half.
Then it developed a strange problem.  The idle began fluctuating up 
and down between about 500 and 1200 rpm.  (Prior to this, it was 
tending to idle at about 1000 when cold, then 1500 when warm and we 
were unable to get it to idle lower)  When it drops, it almost looks 
like an ignition problem because the oil pressure gauge drops and the 
light occassionally flickers.  So far it has not died, but, the 
problem seems to be getting worse.
In addition, it appears to be running quite rich.. Slight black smoke 
and trying to keep from flooding it seems.
This seems to be a tricky problem and I'm not sure how to proceed.
Any ideas?

Also a couple other simple little problems that I haven't yet got 
to.. The dash illumination light does not turn on. I checked the 
variable resistor and this works, but I don't seem to have voltage on 
the hot wire in.  Any ideas?
Also, the right rear tail light shows no voltage on the wire.  Since 
the left one works, I'm assuming at the split, there may be a 
problem. The left one appears to have been re-wired at some point.
Any ideas?
Sincerely
Dale Funk
4984




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 24
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 03:23:02 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Missing hose?

Factory vacuum line is hard plastic, very susceptible to damage. Runs
from HVAC mode switch, under console, through ECU compartment, through
a grommet in driver's pontoon, across back of engine compartment, to
heater core shutoff valve. 

Replaced mine with traditional rubber vacuum line.

Big line to mode switch also hard plastic, very susceptible to damage.
That was my final vacuum leak. See pic in #5939's album if curious
what happens to plugs when that line cracks. Replaced with heavy duty
1/4" fuel hose. Line takes off from vacuum canister inside driver
pontoon (access through charcoal canister panel).

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, doctorDHD_at_dml_a... wrote:
> Today I felt very adventurous so I decided to replace the auxiliary
air tube O-ring, hoping it would solve my fast and irregular idle problem. 
(The tube seemed to be flapping in the breeze and the idle speed regulator was
not screwed to anything.)



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________


Message: 25
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 03:40:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson_at_dml_carolina.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition system shocks

Was a Ford Escort that bit me. Inline 4 with plugs across the front.
Brushed across wire/boot with my fore arm. As you say, jumped
backwards about 20 feet. I remember it made my teeth hurt.

Only time I touch ANYTHING on ignition while engine running is
adjusting time. Even then only move distributor with vacuum advance
diaphragm (unfortunately very close to belts & fan on big block Ford).
Test for spark from safety of a timing light.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews_at_dml_yahoogroups.com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty_at_dml_w...> wrote:
> The biggest danger when working around the high voltage parts is not
> so much the electrical shock itself (which can be very painful, it
> makes your hair hurt!) but the more immediate danger is the
> invoulontary muscular contractions. It can throw you against a wall,



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/