From: <>
To: <>
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1745
Date: Sunday, November 09, 2003 4:50 AM

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There are 5 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "John Hervey" <>

2. RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "John Hervey" <>

From: "IM2WITTY" <>

4. RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil
From: "John Hervey" <>

5. RE: Missing hose?
From: "John Hervey" <>

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 23:18:17 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil

Elvis, To give you a little facts about the coils and what I have measured.
#1. MSD Coil derived by .7 ohm resistance and the coil primary is wound to
hold the current with out any further resistance. Thus 45,000 volts. Also derived by windings on the primary as you know.

#2. Pertronix coil. 1.5 ohm coil. 40,000 volt. Add the extra 1.5 ohm on the
car and you will have a conservative average 30,000 volts. But, it is
designed to run with the internal resistance only.

#3. Bosch coil's all are 1.7 ohm and they want you to use an extra 1.8 ohm
to give the conservative 25,000 volts with loner life. Total 3.5 ohms.

John Hervey

[Very, very long quote snipped by moderator]


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 23:26:30 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil

Elvis, I forgot to say that the standard Bosch coil is only .7 ohms
resistance. The others are the performance coils. So, 1.0 ohm + .7 ohm = 1.7
ohm total.
John Hervey

[Same quote, same fate]


Message: 3
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2003 05:49:56 -0000
From: "IM2WITTY" <>

[MODERATOR NOTE: Behold, a miracle!]

Hello all

I made two posts concerning the restoration of a Delorean frame.
One post was allowed by the moderators and the other post was not  
(it would be a miracle if the moderators allowed THIS message to be 

To make a long story short, I received NO replies, except for one 
guy who wanted to sell me "stuff."  

Somehow, he aquired my DIRECT e-mail address and I did appreciate it 
highly, that he took the time to respond to me.

As for the rest of the "D" owners who did not reply, I can only 
say "Thank you."

I KNOW now that my "D" problems I stand alone.

Once again,




will no longer bother the rest of you "D" experts and owners for 
your assistance.  However, if you have any questions or need any 
assistance, I WILL gladly respond to ALL of you if I know the 
CORRECT answers to your questions.  Also, since I am an 
expert "cyber jock"  I have recently discovered the "Cornacopia" 
of "D" parts.  Why gee, just two weeks ago, I purchase (and had 
delivered) a Delorean frame in excellent condition.  

I paid $200 for the frame which is currently suspended from my 
garage ceiling.  My wife would not allow me to clutter up the garage 
floor because she needs the room for my babies strollers & "things."

This is # 6201 signing off.

Good bye


Message: 4
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 23:59:26 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Re: Kayo Ong's Coil

Bill, The way the Pertronix is made, you could run it with straight voltage
and get more punch. My not last but 1 or 2 years instead of 4 or 5.
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 []
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 11:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Kayo Ong's Coil

> OK, that corresponds with what I've always been told RE: ballast
> resistors -- they are there for ignition module's benefit, not coil's.
> Before electronic ignition (breaker points) were no resistors and
> system ran full 12v. After electronic ignition voltage lowered to ~10v.
> BTW: high performance MSD/Pertronix/Mallory modules go back to 12v.
> Just dropped my Pertronix in too. Works like a charm, eh?
> Bill Robertson
> #5939

[long quote trimmed by moderator]


Message: 5
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 01:17:19 -0800
From: "John Hervey" <>
Subject: RE: Missing hose?

D, Now you know why I have O Rings and copper washers. They are available
but no body stocks them. The information you need is on the web site.
John Hervey]

-----Original Message-----
From: []
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:18 PM
Subject: [DML] Missing hose?

Today I felt very adventurous so I decided to replace the auxiliary air tube
O-ring, hoping it would solve my fast and irregular idle problem.  (The tube
seemed to be flapping in the breeze and the idle speed regulator was not
screwed to anything.) I was told I could reuse the copper gaskets that were
on the
fuel distributor when I took it off.  That supposes that you don't drop them
when taking them off!  Well, I dropped two but hey no problem right?  I just
called an auto parts store and they said sure we have them.  Two hours and
stores later no one had them, even though they said they did on the phone.
Fortunately, one bolt had an extra washer on it and I was able to find one
that I
dropped so I was back in business.  When I put it all together, it actually
started up!  Now it still idles fast but isn't surging up as it did before.

I noticed the heater control valve did not have a hose going to it.  I could
not find any "extra" hose nearby.  The valve itself had a thin plastic
on the back of it but it didn't look like it was hollow, as if a hose would
even go on it.  Right next to it was a hole in the plastic that kinda looked
like a hose connection broke off there.

Does anyone have a picture of the vacuum end of an original heater control
valve and where should the vacuum line be entering the engine compartment on
way to the valve?

Thanks again,,

Dē & 6530


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